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icehewk posted:What temp does cold crashing entail? Refrigerator temperatures? I got a few yeast rafts (loogie looking chunks floating on top) but I smacked it while the pack was still frozen so that might have something to do with lack of moisture exposure. Yea, its usually fridge temps. Basically as close to freezing as you can get without actually freezing. The Munton's would work fine.
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Aug 17, 2012 22:45
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My understanding for less esters is a lower temperature. I believe 62-64 is the hive mind recommended range for Hefe yeasts to not produce much banana runt bubble gum esters. I know its not what either White Labs or Wyeast recommend. I generally shoot for that range when making hefes myself and get great results.
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Aug 21, 2012 16:52
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I've heard Galaxy is a good substitute for Simcoe. It's Australian.
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Oct 2, 2012 03:12
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SurgicalOntologist posted:My dad and I brewed a 10% Belgian and it sat in secondary for 4 months (we were lazy...), so we decided it would be best to add yeast at bottling. It was our first time doing this. My dad actually did the bottling himself and was worried things went wrong. I think you're fine. This is one case where rehydrating dried yeast is indeed very beneficial. You have to rehydrate it into a slurry as per the directions (it will look like regular liquid yeast when you're through) You can then add this slurry to your bottling bucket just as you did to effectively re yeast your beer. That's exactly what I would have done. The yeast floating up was probably some of the old yeast from primary that you may have stirred up when you racked the beer over to the bottling bucket. I bet it will carbonate great.
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Oct 16, 2012 02:49
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Jacobey000 posted:Hahahah, I had the program open and the webpage pulled up and still somehow missed that. Oy Vay. The sour is my interpretation of Jolly Pumpkin Bam Bier. The grist is based on RageSaq's The Muse. The grist was about 51% Belgian 2 row, 22% Marris Otter, 7% flaked oats, 7% Vienna, 7% wheat malt, 3% Caravienna, and 2% acid malt to balance the ph. Hops were 28 IBU of Styrian Golding at 60. I fermented first with WLP 550 in the low 70s and then pitched a 1L starter built up from the dregs of a relatively fresh bottle of Bam Bier. This set in secondary for 2 months before I added a small amount of medium toast French oak (only 3-5 cubes). It's important to boil the oak for about 5 min in some water in the microwave to reduce the oak flavor. The water is discarded and the oak added to secondary. This sat for another 2 months until the oak is barely perceptible. I then added some more of the original yeast and some priming sugar and bottled. FG was 1.005 at bottling. It took another 4 months in bottles before the Brett character became evident though. Sourness is present within weeks of adding the bugs though. I really think the large starter is important to get the sourness. I started with only a cup of wort and the dregs. This fermented for a few days before I added 1L of fresh wort. This sat for a few weeks until the starter dropped clear. I decanted before pitching it.
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Jan 7, 2013 06:25
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 Ice concentrating my Imperial Oktoberfest (basically a doppelbock), calling it "Icetoberfest."
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Jan 14, 2013 19:03
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he1ixx posted:I did a ton more research after the feedback here and ran across this one, which I ended up buying. I'm going for the fig/raisin/plum flavors I so cherish in St Bernardus Abt 12. I'm under no illusion that what I make will be anywhere near that good but hey, its a target right? If you're going for a St Bernardus taste, I would use either the WY3787 or its sister White Labs strain, WLP530, as that is the Westmalle strain. Westvleteren uses the Westmalle strain, and St Bernardus used to brew Westvleteren's beers. I'm pretty sure St Bernardus still uses basically this same strain today. Also, use a blowoff tube. Cheers! EDIT: Well, I just saw you chose WLP500 already. That's Chimay's strain. Its a bit more fruity and less phenolic than the character you get with the westmalle strain.
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Jan 26, 2013 19:33
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Angry Grimace posted:St. Bernardus uses the "original" Westvleteren Strain, I believe. Yup, just checked Brew Like a Monk. That is what is believed, although its still not 100% clear.
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Jan 27, 2013 01:17
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So, just out of curiosity, am I the only one that didn't receive their secret santa gift this year?
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Jan 28, 2013 16:03
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Angry Grimace posted:So I finally dragged out my Beer Gun to try and bottle up a few bottles and I have to say, this thing is a real pain in the rear end. I couldn't tell you if it works or not because it needs not one, but two separate accessory packs to even work with a typical kegging setup and even assuming you have all of the necessary parts, it takes a good 20 minutes or assembly and loving around with parts and kegs to get it to work. A plastic racking cane with a stopper seems like a better solution merely because it takes 3 minutes to pull the cane out, sanitize it and then stick it in the tap. It just kind of depends on how you have your system setup. I have an extra C02 line on the outside of my kegerator that I hook up to. Besides that one C02 line, the connections are the same as with a racking cane bottler. My problem with racking cane bottlers was I could never get it to shut off. I don't have that problem with the Blichmann. Bottling from a keg will never be as easy as priming sugar and bottling bucket mind you, because you're dealing with carbonated liquids.
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Feb 2, 2013 00:37
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Xiuhteuctli posted:I recently brewed a Belgian Tripel from a Brewer's Best kit. It has been in the Primary for 2 weeks, and I just put it into the Secondary yesterday. You need to pitch more yeast and see it that will help finish it, because 1.030 is really high for a tripel (ideally around 1.008-1.014 according to the BJCP). But make sure you pitch active yeast, not dormant yeast. To do this you need to make a small (~.5L or so) starter and pitch the whole thing into the beer. If you just pitch a pack of dried yeast or a vial/pouch of yeast straight its just going to hit that wort and go to sleep on you, but if its actively working, it will continue to do so if it can.
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Feb 5, 2013 02:41
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Jacobey000 posted:First lager, no idea about temperatures during fermentation - who has the best advice? Palmer? Here is more info than you ever wanted to know about fermenting lagers at home and also commercially. http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fermenting_Lagers . There is also a good article on decoction mashing if that's your bag on that site as well. The guy really knows his German beers (he is German after all).
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Feb 17, 2013 18:57
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 02:59 |
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Jacobey000 posted:Someone mentioned it in response to another post but it's http://www.bargainfittings.com/ I also really like https://www.brewhardware.com
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Apr 30, 2013 05:22
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