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kaishek posted:Hm, too bad. That means I'll be throwing away 2 other liquid yeast packets too. I guess not that bad of a loss, given a waiting time of over a year like that. Better to not throw good after bad. There's no reason the ingredients would go bad, right? DME and LME? I'd brew a simple batch with a low gravity and few hops to keep it cheap. Maybe a light porter or something. Then pitch your pack of yeast and see how it goes. I'd be willing to bet it comes out perfectly fine. In the days of old people "pitched" by using a wooden paddle with some yeast cells on it. Of course there's no guarantee everything will be gravy, but I would certainly give it a go. If it does nothing you can pitch something else, and if it works it will probably work well. Yeast is pretty cool.
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Oct 28, 2011 05:38
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Jo3sh posted:So the Oatmeal Cookie brown beer recipe from Radical Brewing... CCB makes an oatmeal raisin cookie beer which is their Maduro oatmeal brown with spices. They use cinnamon, raisins, vanilla. Don't know the quantities but it tastes sufficiently different from the original without being overwhelming. Edit: my thoughts are that I like it. I actually prefer it to Maduro which is one of my favorite browns.
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Oct 29, 2011 18:27
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quantegy posted:This is going back a little far but can someone explain the 3 days at 72* part? What does raising the temperature do? In the post you quoted, silver97232 says to raise the temperature about 5 degrees after primary to condition. Basically the yeast work faster at higher temps and clean up the byproducts or off flavors of primary quicker. Since primary is over after 3 days or so, you don't run the risk of fusel alcohols and esters from higher temps. The higher temps also helps make sure your beer finishes attenuating and doesn't stall out. Some yeast require a temp raise to avoid stalling. I let my beers rest at room temperature (74-78*) for a couple weeks to allow them to fully attenuate and condition before kegging. I also have to remove the kegs and let them sit at room temp while I ferment new batches, with no negative effects. As a matter of fact the last gallon of Munich Helles I have tastes way better than it did 2 months ago. It was brewed in late May. That beer was on tap for 2 months and then at 78* for a few months. It finally lost the diacetyl off flavor it had.
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Nov 1, 2011 05:44
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You brew in the dark? Pretty cool.
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Nov 2, 2011 01:19
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So the Belgian dubbel I brewed with wyeast 3787 a month ago still has a cider/green apple off flavor. Or so I thought. I cracked open a bottle of Affligem tripel tonight and was hit by the same flavor! After 1/4 of the bomber it mellowed out and tasted more like a tripel, but at first it had that same strong cider flavor. EDIT: I'm not talking about the wine/champagne flavors characteristic of many Belgians. Will this age out of my dubbel? I only have experience with fusel off flavors, which in my experience never really go away. I underpitched (always do) with 1 packet into a 1.08 beer. I also let the temps rise to the low seventies by the second day, which I usually do not do. On the positive side my London porter clone v2, SMaSH cascade v2 and first RIS all came out great! I kegged and force carbed the RIS today and it already tastes great. That one went from 1.084-->1.022 in 30 hours. I added a pound of cane sugar and after another 24 hours it stopped bubbling so I let it get to 76*. it's currently at 1.015! My highest ABV brew so far  I almost had a buzz just from the hydro sample.tesilential fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Nov 3, 2011 |
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Nov 3, 2011 04:33
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Docjowles posted:The one time I used that yeast in a dubbel, it really took a while to get good even with a big starter. Tasting a gravity sample about 10 days in, I honestly thought it was infected, really odd flavors. But it kept improving weekly and ended up being a nice beer with none of the initial weirdness. I'd suggest just forgetting about it for another month. Cool, that's very good to know! This the first beer I've made with proper temp control that wasn't ready to go straight out of primary. I let it sit for almost 2 months before kegging as well. How do you dry hop using pellets? I've only done it with whole leaves in a hop sack in the keg. I guess I could rack an IPA from primary to secondary and then dry hop with loose pellets and hope they settle out. from what I've heard it's near impossible to do in the keg
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Nov 3, 2011 16:15
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mattdev posted:If you're really paranoid like I am, I'll usually sanitize one of those hop bags and stick it over the racking cane. That usually prevents any hop particles from getting into the keg/bottling bucket. If your paranoid, I'm crazy. I just boiled a 5 gal nylon paint strainer bag to sterilize it. Then I put 2 oz whole leaf cascade in it, tied off the opening and tossed it into a keg. :o Edit: paging Rage Sac- What's your timeline for brewing Belgians? What temperature and duration are your primary and sexondary fermentations? How long (if at all) do you age the bottle or kegs before drinking? tesilential fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Nov 4, 2011 |
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Nov 4, 2011 00:17
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Kegging is awesome! That said a room temp you will turn the gas WAY up to rapid force carbonate. You'll end up using and wasting more co2 as you will have to vent the headspace in order to bottle, plus the higher pressure requires a higher volume of gas. Keep an eye out on CL for a used chest freezer. Youll need a temperature controller as well, which will have an extension cord to reach an outlet (hopefully).
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Nov 4, 2011 22:28
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rage-saq posted:With Belgians the time, temperature and maturation (aging) cycles largely depends on the yeast, but to a lesser but still significant degree the style. Thanks! I have a dubbel (sposed to be a quad but efficiency yada yada) brewed with Westmalle yeast (3787) that ended up at 9.2% ABV. I also used a similar fermentation, starting at 68* and getting to 74* after 24 hours. Held it at 78* until it finished and left it in primary for over a month. I'm almost certain the unpleasantness is yeast related, as an RIS I brewed 2 weeks ago at higher ABV is already good. Anyways I'm kinda relieved it takes a while for your dark strong belgians to mature, makes me think mine could end up being good/great one day. rage-saq posted:As far as what you should do for your beers I'd recommend picking Brew Like A Monk as there are also many ways to get the yeast flavor that you want. They have numerous sections in the book that outline different strategies different brewers have towards getting what they want out of the yeast, and how those can mix in with the grain and hop flavors. I have Brew Like a Monk and it has been a great help. Sorta why I was confused as to why my dubbel didn't turn out so good, since I had read the yeast could handle the temps fine. Have you tried using this yeast at lower temperatures? I think I will try 68* for a few days when I brew a tripel.
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Nov 5, 2011 01:30
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rage-saq posted:78f fermentation temp isn't really a problem for the Westmalle yeast. 78f ambient temp is probably somewhere int he 86-88f range which is definitely outside of its comfort zone. How were you measuring fermentation temperature? Measured via thermometer strip on bucket. I allow for 1-2*f higher in the center, so my strip read 77*. My non geek gf said "apples" immediately upon smelling. I noticed something was off, kind of a cider twang. Haven't smelled/tasted anything like it since my first few batches with no temp control (80's fermentation, under the can yeast and s04 and us05 yeasts). A buddy who drinks craft beer regularly says it tasted like a woodchuck cider. He actually liked it. tesilential fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Nov 5, 2011 |
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Nov 5, 2011 03:14
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rage-saq posted:Could be acetaldehyde which is just a flavor of a young beer. Give it some time and it will go away. On the one hand I'm glad my beer may turn out fine, on the other I'm concerned about what process error caused this. Is it simply not possible to have a 9%+ ABV yeast dominant beer that i ready young? I seem to remember in BLAM that westvleteren had a short primary and then a secondary at ~60* just to clarify the beer Has anyone fermented Westmalle's yeast at lower temperatures? What was the result?
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Nov 5, 2011 07:26
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TheCIASentMe posted:It can be if you let go for too long. Generally speaking you've got about 3-4 months before your beer will go bad. Longer if you refrigerate it. It won't spoil but it will taste worse the longer it goes. Nope. Many people have had beers sit in carboys or buckets for over a year and had great beer. In fact, as often as not the subject claims it ended up being their best or cleanest beer ever. Personally I've never gone over 3 months in primary, but that's because i need the beer for my pipeline. I wound not be worries at all about autolysis or anything with Homebrew as long as your sanitation is sound.
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Nov 6, 2011 09:28
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crazyfish posted:Speaking of strainer bags, I want to do my next batch as a partial mash BIAB and I wasn't able to find a strainer bag that would fit over my 8 gallon pot. The biggest one I could find was only 5 gallons, and while it would work as a hop bag for sure, it's far too small to put 8 pounds of grains in. Anyone know where I could find something like, say, the bag used in this video? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kfi86yzhPvw I have brewed seventeen 5 gallon batches BIAB style with a nylon paint strainer bag. The smallest grain bill was 9# with most being around 13#. Recently brewed a big RIS, and I used 2 paint strainer bags to deal with the 21.5# grain bill. I did upgrade to an 80qt pot, so now I really do need a bigger bag. You can make one out of voile ($4 curtains at wal mart) or order one from the couple guys who make them on homebrewtalk ($20-35). I considered the latter because they make nice bags with holding loops and draw strings but I may just buy the voile and use a large section so I don't need to sew at all. tesilential fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Nov 7, 2011 |
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Nov 7, 2011 22:40
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IMO buckets > carboys (glass or plastic). Top cropping is ridiculously easy in buckets as is cleaning. My glass carboy is only getting used for secondaries from now on. Getting all the Krausen scum out has proven to be difficult. Also the stopper and airlock isn't as secure as the bucket lid. When the stopper is wet with star San it is slippery and has popped out and fallen on the floor.
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Nov 10, 2011 07:43
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JohnnySmitch posted:Have you tried using oxyclean ("free" - the non fragrance stuff) and hot water, just filling up the loosely rinsed carboy and letting it sit a few hours/overnight? I did that with my carboy that was caked like crazy with krausen and tons of hop residue, and the oxyclean ate that stuff up and made the inside of my carboy look like new with little to no scrubbing or effort. I have been using oxyclean free since I started brewing. It does work well, but still failed to remove Krausen gunk from a 4 week fermentation. Also I have really hard tap water so oxyclean leaves a hard white coat on everything unless I rinse it out within a few minutes of use.
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Nov 11, 2011 02:52
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kitten smoothie posted:Is today's woot any good for an outdoor brew kettle and burner? Looks like you'd have to cut some metal if you upgraded to a wider pot. You can get a set without the stupid safety frame arms for $60 at lowes or home depot.
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Nov 14, 2011 02:58
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withak posted:Google "blowoff tube". Or, as an alternative simply don't seal the bucket lid all the way for the first couple days. It should prevent the blow out. After primary calms down, press it down all the way.
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Nov 14, 2011 18:21
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So my late hop experiment was very successful, thanks for the tip rage saq! It is a SMaSH cascade/Maris otter ale hopped to 39 IBU with magnum. Then I used 3 oz whole leaf cascade a minute after flameout. I dry hopped in the keg with 2 more ounces of cascade 10 days ago and it is great! I mashed at 149* but used Thames Valley yeast so it still has some maltiness and breadiness while being dry and light on the tongue. The aroma is impressive for being over a year old hops. It is definitely more aromatic and a little more flavorful than the first version with a traditional 60-15-5 min hop schedule. I'm going to brew a hoppy red ale soon and I think I'll do mostly flameout additions but also add in 1 oz of Amarillo at 10 minutes for complexity. I'm kind of paranoid the late hop additions will fade quickly but I also don't think the pale SMaSH or imperial red will last very long, my friends and family love hoppy beers.
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Nov 15, 2011 07:33
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indigi posted:They'll be close enough to 15.2% that it won't matter one way or the other. Factors like boil volume, gravity, boil strength, pH, how quickly you cool the wort, whether you use a hop bag, etc. will affect the IBUs more than .3% AA either way would. Hell, the ounce you got could by chance contain a sample of pellets that is higher or lower than the 15.2% AA bale average anyway. That said, I read some Hop descriptions somewhere, and IIRC some hops lose about half their AA after just six months. I know when my not vacuum sealed cascade got more than a couple months old I wouldn't use them for the bittering charge, just late addition and dry hopping.
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Nov 17, 2011 02:14
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Docjowles posted:What yeast was it? Many British yeasts flocc like goddam concrete once they decide they're done fermenting, cold crash or no. Wlp023=Burton ale=Thames valley=wyeast1275=poor flocculator
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Nov 17, 2011 17:44
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indigi posted:I've used them for about 15 batches now and never had this problem, and the one I saved to sample tasted really fuckin good ( What was your mash temp? 1.012 seems like a good FG with that yeast.
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Nov 17, 2011 20:10
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Yet, oddly enough the pale ales I made with that yeast have been by far my clearest beers. It just takes longer to settle.
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Nov 17, 2011 22:32
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Toebone posted:Beer disaster! I accidentally positioned the picnic tap on my keg so that when the fridge door closed, it opened the tap. Luckily I opened the door just a few minutes later so I didn't lose everything in the keg, but it made a hell of a mess I've heard about this, so I take care to make sure the picnic taps have some clearance from the freezer lid! I'll admit when hosting parties when others pour themselves I slack and it could easily happen to me as well! beetlo posted:Well I overshot the starting gravity on my Oktoberfest by quite a bit. 1.068 when it was supposed to be 1.056. I'm thinking I'll either dilute it when moving to secondary or perhaps right before bottling. More beer... I guess. Does this sound reasonable? If you got the volume you wanted, don't even dilute it, just enjoy the stronger beer!
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Nov 19, 2011 08:41
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Your yeast are certainly not as viable as they would be if they were fresh, but there should be enough yeast to do the job. I've had even fresh yeast in a 1 gal starter take 3 days to show signs of fermentation. If your starter is small enough to not affect the final beer, I would just brew tomorrow as planned and pitch the whole starter when the wort is cool. You could also do a no chill and pitch Monday or even Tuesday if you keep the wort sealed up. I pitched yeast 36 hours after brewing on my first full boil batch since I didn't have a wort chiller.
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Nov 20, 2011 07:04
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crazyfish posted:
I actually tried for a Westyish All Grain beer a few months ago. Here are some comments based on my experience: - I would keep the lid on tight until the airlock starts bubbling, then loosen it and just lay it on the top to keep contaminants out. The outward pressure of co2 leaving the wort will stuff from sneaking in, and IME the yeast makes a big mess and high krausen. - For fermentation, I would hold it at 68* for like 3 days, then let it get to 72* for a couple days. Only after 6 days would I let it get to 78*. This yeast gave me mostly green apple (cider) taste when I pitched at 68* and let it get to 78* after 30 hours. At 1.083 my OG was also lower than yours, so I'd expect even more off flavors in a higher gravity brew. Despite this yeast creating a monster krausen and blowoff, I found it actually took quite a while to finish, so you can let the temperature rise more slowly. Westvleteren does do the schedule you cited, but their yeast behaves differently since it is under more pressure than our 5 gallon buckets. - I have used a regular fermentation bucket for mashing many times, the bottling bucket should work great. The spigot won't clog since you'll have all the grains contained in your BIAB bag. - I also made my own candi syrup for this recipe, using table sugar (cane), a couple pinches of citric acid powder(from LHBS), and a tiny bit of water. The first time I messed up by using way too much water and it took a long time to evaporate out. Toss in 2 pounds of table sugar, and like a teaspoon of water. Turn the heat up to medium and wait a while until it all melts. You don't have to stir or anything. Use a thermometer to get the temp up to 270 and lower the heat to maintain it. I slowly crept up to 280 to get a very dark amber color, but you may want to play it safe to ensure you don't burn the sugar and end up with an unfermentable caramel. Use a spoon to drip a drop unto aluminum foil to see how dark it really is since it will appear black in the pot while still being amber. When I brewed mine my recipe was 90% pilsner malt, 10% candi syrup, with only my syrup for color. It did not end up quite as dark as I wanted, more of a dark amber. You are using chocolate malt so you should be set. After a couple months in the keg my batch has mellowed out considerably and is starting to become an interesting Belgian so overall I am OK with the finished product. I will be making some changes next time, most of which are outlined above. Good luck!
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Nov 22, 2011 07:11
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about brewing a belgian quad
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How soon can you get a kegging setup?
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Nov 24, 2011 21:05
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James Bont posted:So for my next beer I'm gonna do something of a strong porter with mexican chocolate and pasilla peppers. About what temperature should I mash at, maybe 155 or so? I want it to have some decent body, not watery, with a bit of residual sweetness too. Probably gonna use a quarter pound or so of some dark crystal malt to help with that. Also I was gonna use marris otter for my base malt. Recipe so far looks something like Swap the roasted barley with 10 oz of brown malt to get that chocolate aroma and flavor. I'd go bigger with a couple more pounds of MO, you can increase the dark crystal and chocolate to 8 oz of each. That will give you more sweetness and mouthfeel. Consider using another 8 oz of crystal 60 or something. Mash at 154*. I brewed a chocolaty porter with MO, 8 oz chocolate malt and 10 oz brown malt and 1# crystal 80. I mashed at 149* and it came out a bit thin for my tastes. Prefect Six posted:Anyone have any suggestions for this recipe? More finishing hops. Double or triple the 0 min addition. Dry hop with 1 oz chinook. VVV Darth Goku Jr posted:.75# of crystal for a 3 gallon batch? sounds a bit excessive to me. Oh snap! I didn't notice that. tesilential fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Nov 27, 2011 |
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Nov 26, 2011 20:06
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Dolemite posted:
Congrats on your first all grain! Glad to heat it went mostly smoothly. I also learned a lesson about water volume with my first all grain. As they say, with BIAB it's all about the crush! Run your grains through the mill twice from now on. That alone gets me around 70-75%. Additionally you can rinse the grain bag with some hot water to wash out some more sugar. You could also raise the temp to 165* or so before removing the grains. If you are really concerned the best way is to use a larger volume of water to dissolve the sugars during the mash and then boil longer to get back to your target volumes. Did you end up using the starter from last weekend or did you buy new yeast? tesilential fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Nov 27, 2011 |
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Nov 27, 2011 09:57
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The easy way is to sprinkle a couple grams of US05 into your bottling bucket with your priming sugar. It should carb by Christmas if you do it soon. Test one or three before you give them away to make sure.
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Nov 27, 2011 18:17
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I'm on the lookout for a nice propane burner, a weldless bulkhead with valve and diptube, weldless sightglass, and other miscellaneous stuff so please post any brew related Cyber Monday sales here please!
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Nov 28, 2011 06:16
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Dolemite posted:Ah yeah, I forgot about that section! I remember reading that a long time ago. I knew I was missing something when I was trying to remember what I should read over before brewing! He's referring to traditional mashing methods, although I think they aim more for 1.2-1.5 qts water per pound of grain. With BIAB you use your total boil volume + extra water to account for grain absorption. I use a little less to allow for a "mini-sparge" of the grain bag. I think grain absorption is like .1 quarts per pound or something. I seem to lose about 1 gallon of water to my roughly 10 # grists, after the squeeze. Which burner do you have? I have a cheap high pressure (3" venturi design) jet burner that I haven't even used yet. Now that I think about it, it will probably work fine for a 7 or 8 gallon boil and I should at least try it first. I still need a better wort chiller and weldless kettle fittings though.
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Nov 28, 2011 08:16
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Here is something I made to be sort of similar to a Fuller's Porter, it's still carbing right now, but tasting it before bottling, I thought it was drat good: I don't have my notes with me, but my Fuller's London porter clone looks very similar to yours. I had 1# brown malt, 12 oz chocolate, 1# crystal 80 with Maris otter as the base. Mash at 154*-153*. 150 is too low.
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Dec 1, 2011 02:17
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Did that give you a coffee flavor? Mine has some coffee flavor, but it's not as robust as the actual fullers. I have great coffee aroma coming from the beer, but as I said, it's got way more of a nutty taste and only hints of coffee. I actually don't get very much coffee flavor in my version or the original. I get much more of a chocolatey aroma in both. The original has this amazing body created by the yeast (they crash cool to drop it out before it finishes). My brew over attenuated because i mashed too low (148). Mine is the official recipe Fuller's published plus a little extra brown malt for more chocolate aroma.
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Dec 1, 2011 08:47
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mindphlux posted:I don't fuss too much with yeast starters, but wondering if I might have messed something up. I normally use dry packet yeast because it's cheap and easy and I've found a favorite in safale 05, but I read a thread on HBT about how lots of people are having strange (bad) fermentations with new US05. I think the consensus was that the batch or batches are infected. Symptoms are very long fermentation (4 weeks to FG), yeast that will NOT flocculate, and off flavors. I didnt pay much attention since I use liquid yeast 99% of the time, but I may be brewing an IPA this weekend and am gonna double check before I ruin 7 oz of hops plus grain with a poo poo packet of yeast. Worst case scenario I'll just use either 1275, 1968 or even 3711 to get the job done.
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Dec 1, 2011 23:20
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Darth Goku Jr posted:ok so a while back I asked for a citrcus hop bomb recipe to make for a friend, and i got what amounted to a Zombie Dust clone, with all citra and uk pale ale malt. Dude really enjoyed it and wants to go again, but with some adjustments. He wants it a bit maltier in taste and does want a hint of resiny or piney hops to balance out the large amounts of citrus. Would switching to Maris Otter take care of the maltiness? Keep the late additions. Hell use half of the 60 min addition at 10 instead, less bitterness and more malty backbone with extra hop aroma/flavor.
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Dec 2, 2011 22:46
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The Phantom Goat posted:I want to start homebrewing soon (maybe santa will bring me the stuff), but i'm curious... How likely is it that my first batch of beer will be drinkable? I mean, will I be able to make some decent out of the gate or will it take a couple tries before I have something I can drink and share with friends? Brewing an extract kit is harder than making coffee but a lot easier than making soup. Fermentation is key, make sure you pitch at the proper temps (< 68*) and ferment on the cool side (60-66* to be safe). You will be surprised and impressed by the results.
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Dec 3, 2011 22:40
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indigi posted:Tettnanger Noble Hop Supremacy Really? My favorite noble is hallertau by a large margain, but I have not tried tettnanger. Labelpeelers dot com has good prices and still has Simcoe by the ounce. Out of hallertau and citra though.
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Dec 5, 2011 08:25
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Super Rad posted:Racked two beers into kegs yesterday: Unfortunately, I've found cascade hop aroma fades pretty quickly. I brewed 2 SMaSH beers with Cascade hops and maris otter malt. The second I hit with 3 oz of cascade just after flameout. I dry hopped with 2 oz in the keg and it smelled and tasted awesome after 1 week. After another week the awesome bright floral hop character was replaced by a more pungent orange hop character which has remained since. maybe if I had removed the hops after 7-10 days I could have retained the character, but as of now i only dry hop in the keg.
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Dec 6, 2011 08:18
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I have been itching to brew for two months and will finally have an opportunity to on Saturday! I already have the ingredients for a double IPA batch that was supposed to be a Pliny the Elder clone until I found my LHBS did not have any Simcoe  .I was actually quite shocked because I was able to get 2010 Simcoe from them until about August or September. The employee said they didn't get any 2011 Simcoe or Citra this year. Wow. They are a major distributor for local breweries here, and I bet a lot of local brewpubs will be hit by this. Anyways, here is the recipe http://hopville.com/recipe/1027689/imperial-ipa-recipes/pliny-style-2011-12-06-version I have all the hops listed in the recipe in my freezer, plus 1 pound each of Amarillo, Magnum, Chinook, as well as 1/2 pound of Simcoe coming from an online order. They were shipped USPS today so there is a fairly good chance I may receive them before brewday (saturday). If they do arrive in time, I will add 2 oz of Simcoe to the post boil addition and probably 1 oz to the 5 minute boil addition. I will ferment for 7-10 days and then dry hop when I transfer to the keg. Ideally I will force carb and have a lot of this bottled off for Christmas gifts after 4 or 5 days of dry hopping. Any recommendations to the recipe? I plan to mash at 152* and add the 14oz of sugar during high krausen. This is also my first attempt at first wort hopping and I'm using it as my sole bittering addition. Will this come out too bitter? I'm hoping the FWH technique causes a rounder or smoother bitterness because this is a good 30+ IBU's more than anything I've brewed so far. i have been fortunate enough to try Pliny here in tampa and it is not as bitter as the numbers would suggest. It was extremely dry and extremely floral, even though it had been bottled over a month before we drank it. I'm hoping this will at least be a dry, really drinkable, incredible aromatic and tasty IPA. Edit: I'm giddy as a school girl! The site I ordered hops from just got 2011 Simcoe whole hops back in stock for $13 a pound. I'm trying to decide between getting 2 or 3 pounds... Edit 2: Ended up ordering 2 pounds Simcoe leaf, 1 pound citra leaf, 1 pound US hallertau pellets for 62 shipped.. We're not gonna have any room in the freezer for food  , I won't be able to hide this one from the gf  .
tesilential fucked around with this message at 09:37 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 6, 2011 08:29
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Reposting from above. http://hopville.com/recipe/1027689/imperial-ipa-recipes/pliny-style-2011-12-06-version Anyone have experience using first wort hops as sole hop addition? Edit: sole bittering addition tesilential fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Dec 7, 2011 |
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Dec 7, 2011 00:31
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