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more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

I'm wondering how people here take gravity readings in primary/secondary. I've got a thief and a test cylinder, but to get the hydrometer floating it takes ~6 oz or so, so I don't want to take samples very often. Is it a bad idea to pour the sample (or most of it) back in the fermenter, assuming everything (thief, test cylinder, hydrometer) is sanitized?

Also, I've been thinking about getting this freezer: http://www.kmart.com/kenmore-7.2-cu-ft-chest-freezer-white/p-022W004478763000P?prdNo=17&blockNo=17&blockType=G17#reviewsWrap for fermentation and lagering. From the HBT freezer sizing thread, it looks like I'll be able to get two carboys in there at once. Does this sound like a terrible idea for any reason?

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more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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Yeah, I usually drink it too, I just wish I could take more frequent samples to see what the gravity is looking like/when it's done in primary without losing several bottles worth to hydro samples.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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I made a batch of a Honey Brown Ale for my wedding which is in 9 weeks. It should be ready to bottle this weekend (and it was delicious going into secondary, so it's gotta be fantastic now). Since it's really good, I'm going to make another batch of it this weekend. To get consistency between the two batches, I was thinking about waiting to bottle the first batch until the second one is done, then blending them together in the bottling bucket.

There's a couple potential issues -- I only have a regular 6.5g bottling bucket, so I can't mix all of them together at once. This means I'll have to pull half from one, half from the other, re-bung them, bottle that half, then do the other half. Or, I guess I could get another bottling bucket, which is probably the right solution since I'll need the two halves to be pretty much exactly the same level so that I add the right amount of priming sugar...

Otherwise, is there any issue with leaving a beer that's already been on secondary for two weeks for another three?

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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Roundboy posted:

I just need another carboy

I feel like I say this once a week now. Just one more, then I'll have enough.

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Feb 26, 2005

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e: sorry, doublepost

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Feb 26, 2005

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Docjowles posted:

It took a few batches before cracking, but I am a victim of this too. Now I put it in a cast iron pan and put that on the burner. Takes a little longer to boil but doesn't destroy my poo poo.

How do you boil (I'm assuming you're talking about for starters) in a Pyrex flask, anyway? I tried with my last starter and it was basically a surefire boilover machine. Fermcap?

And how do you cool it, do you use hot water and then gradually bring it down? I assume even with pyrex you don't want to go from boiling-on-high-flame to ice-bath in one shot.

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Feb 26, 2005

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EnsignVix posted:

To my fellow Pumpkin Ale brewers, I just wanted to get a general consensus on how many of you use actual pumpkin, also if using pumpkin when do you add it? I do use canned pumpkin and add it to the mash which this year was pretty tricky to manage.

On a totally unrelated note, I finally got around to using my Blichmann beer gun and wow that thing is great. Too many bottle conditioning mishaps forced my hand. Not having sediment, a very specific and controllable carbonation level, and a very quick turnaround from brewing to ready bottles? Yes please!

I did almost 4 lbs (3lb 14oz) of previously roasted and frozen actual pumpkin stuff. My wife makes pumpkin pie/cookies/etc from real pumpkin, and so we had it left over in the freezer from last year. I did a partial mash BIAB-style with 3 lbs of 6-row.

Because it had been frozen for 8-9 months, it was pretty goopy, so a lot of it ended up in the boil, and quite a bit ended up in the fermenter after going through the strainer -- there was about 1/2 gallon of sediment including yeast cake, cold break, and pumpkin goop on the bottom of my primary.

It worked pretty well, the pumpkin flavor turned out great. I didn't get much in terms of gravity out of it (only about 0.004), so maybe my partial mash was really bad (I had trouble keeping it at temperature, it was my first time).

Of course, when I tested a bottle after a week, it was completely uncarbonated. I'm hoping the yeasties just haven't kicked back up after a long (4 week) secondary. Still tasted good, though.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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I would take some, the new vacuum sealer isn't gonna use itself.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

It's possible, but so long as you exercise proper sanitation procedures it shouldn't happen. I mean during fermentation you're basically dealing with a giant pot of super tasty bug juice, so any microbes that you toss in there will be competing with the "good" microbes for the prize. I figure bottling would be less likely because of the alcohol content but the risk could still be there. So I guess I would avoid bottling or brewing while sick. A bigger risk would be sick while handling a 5 gallon pot of boiling wort or the risk of broken glass.

Speaking of brewing and being ill...



I had minor surgery yesterday, and while waiting for the procedure to start my wife and I figure out what we wanted to brew over the new few weekends. The hospital had wifi so we put together a shopping list from Annapolihs Home Brew, and it arrived today. They put everything together and shipped it the same day, and since we live in Maryland we got all 57 pounds of it the next day! Not bad for $7.95 flat rate shipping. What you see there is the all grain kit for their Belgian Tripel, the extract kits for the WH Honey Ale and Honey Porter kits, and finally the ingredients for Northern Brewer's Saison de Noel kit. I also picked up some FermCap-S, extra corn sugar, and some yeast nutrient. Total price was $202 shipped.

So yeah, if you guys are putting together a big order and want flat rate shipping I highly recommend giving Annapolis Homebrew a shot.

BTW has anyone checked out Northern Brewer's Megapot? Looks pretty nice, and $150 for a 10 gallon isn't terrible.

I'm planning the Saison de Noel as well, so I was pretty happy when Wyeast announced that the 3726 Farmhouse Reserve was going to be one of their specialties from October-December. I already asked the LHBS when they're getting it in :)

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

How does that compare to the 3711?

I haven't used either (this will be my first Saison), but from what I hear it's similar to the 3711 in terms of not stalling out around 1.030, but doesn't attenuate quite as much, and more spicy stuff compared to the more fruity esters of the 3711/3724. It's supposed to be real tasty though, so I'm intrigued. From what I can tell, the Saison de Noel was originally made to be fermented with 3726, and they provide 3711 when it's not available.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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Myron Baloney posted:

I've made basic pils/wheat saisons with 3711, 3724 and 3726. So far 3726 is the fruitiest and tartest of the 3, 3711 is lemony and lightly spicy and has that smooth mouthfeel, and 3724 (still my favorite) has lots of spice and moderate fruit and tartness (when fermented at 90-95F). I don't think you have to jack the temp up for 3726, I pitched at 70F and let it come up by itself in a room at 75F and it hit FG of 1.003 in 13 days. They'll all get down close to 1.000 if done right but 3711 is the most forgiving.

Yeah, I was going to pitch 3726 around 70-75 and then keep it at ambient of 72 or so (so, getting up to almost if not 80 internally) unless it stalled out.

This reminds me: I got a submersible aquarium heater: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MMJ8EE/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for potentially heating a Saison in a water bath, since I use Better Bottles and I'm not super comfortable putting a heater on them directly. If I do use something like that, how important is water circulation in order to keep a consistent temperature? I was just going to use a rope tub with the carboy/heater in there.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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I need ideas for airlock/blowoff options for a Better Bottle with a limited amount of vertical space (about 1 1/2"-2"). I just got my minifridge fermentation chamber and it's a tight fit. A BB with universal bung and 3-piece airlock doesn't fit. A BB with an orange carboy cap does fit, and I can get 1/2" ID tubing over the shorter straight opening, but I'm not too sure about the orange carboy caps in general, they seem too loose fitting to be trustworthy.

A 1/4" ID 3/8" OD racking cane fits in a stopper/bung, so I could use the hook end into some 3/8" ID tubing, but I'm a little worried about that being a big enough blowoff tube. Then again, the blowoff tubes I've done so far have just been the body of a 3-piece airlock with 1/2" ID tubing over the stem, so they still have the opening of the airlock as the bottleneck.

There's always the possibility of getting the like $17 Better Bottle PET closure thing and doing a PVC elbow, which I think would probably fit, but that's getting into pretty expensive territory, and I'd rather be able to see inside my blowoff tube so I have an idea if it's getting clogged.

I've thought about just drilling a stopper to fit 1/2" ID tubing, but I think I'd need a 90 degree elbow in order to not crimp the tubing. Maybe a bigger ID racking cane?

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

There's 1 1/2" to 2" of headspace from the top of the BB (using a 5 gallon BB to measure since my 6 gallon is in a swamp cooler and full of beer, but from what I can tell they're the same height) to the top of the fridge.

I'd just jam a big piece of tubing in there, but it'd be at least 1 1/2" ID, I think -- I'm not sure offhand how big the opening of the BB is, but it's significantly bigger than a glass carboy. I can't see that working with the amount of headspace without kinking it pretty bad to make an elbow.

I may also try putting some 1/2" tubing over the nipple (is that what it's called?) of a universal stopper (the non-solid ones with the... nipple in the middle), if that won't kink up, that's probably the best solution.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

Is the general consensus that carboy hoods/caps (the orange/maroon rubber deals with the two out tubes and white caps) are sufficiently airtight to prevent oxygenation or contamination? They just seem a bit loose.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

Anyone have suggestions for a first extract lager recipe? My new minifridge can get down to 36 or so, so I'm looking to take the plunge.

Thinking about a vague conversion of an AG Old Style (shut up, I love Old Style) clone I've seen on the internet:

6 lbs Pilsner LME
3 lbs Rice Syrup (add @ 15)
1 oz BC Goldings @ 60
1.25 oz Saaz @ 15
Irish Moss
Yeast Nutrient

WLP840/WY2007/WY2272

Ferment at 53, d-rest at 60, lager at 40.

edit: that's first lager, not first batch. I've done 8 or so ale batches and will probably have another couple under my belt by the time I do this one.

more falafel please fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Oct 8, 2013

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Feb 26, 2005

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CapnBry posted:

I use the piece of 1/4" racking cane with 3/8" tubing over it that goes down to a blowoff collector and airlock:


3/8" tubing as worked without a clog for me (up to 1.089 OG), but I've had the airlock with 1/2" tubing explode on me before. The opening on some of my airlocks has a little grate on them that clogs sometimes. Even the airlocks without those, the hole is kinda small. It is made to let gas out, not gunk. That's why I think the piece of blowoff tubing is fine. If you need it to fit in less space, just get one of those right angle hose barbs from the hardware store.

The collection vessel (which has been sanitized) I bought at the grocery store but it sucks because it isn't airtight. Not because :siren: contamination :siren: because that will never ever happen, even with your orange carboy cap. My collection vessel sucks because it doesn't make the airlock bubble as much as it could. I'm going to replace it with an empty PET peanut butter jar once I empty out all the peanut butter. Germs and stuff that are going to infect your beer have no chance of getting up around seals which aren't airtight. In order for that to happen you'd have to be getting a good amount of airflow flowing into the fermenter. That just doesn't happen.

What's wrong with just sticking the other end of the tubing into a jar of sanitizer/vodka?

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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Clockwork Beast! posted:

I've started my first brew! My brother has had some experience so he and I worked on the first one. After taking it home, fermentation in the primary went fine. Hung out there for about 5 days then racked it to a clean, glass carboy secondary. I lost about a half-gallon of liquid; when the siphon started going dark I though I was getting into the trub but I guess it was just sediment or something right before it because I ended up pouring out a lot of liquid before getting to the solids. Didn't figure this was a big deal. Shortly after racking, white foam-like beads started forming on the surface of the beer. Some Google-fu told me this was most likely yeast being moved around by CO2. Fine.

Here's where the issue begins. At this point fermentation slowed considerably, stopping completely by day 2 or 3 in the secondary. The white beads did not foam any longer. Swirling it produced small amounts of activity in the airlock, but it stopped immediately. The bubbles that formed after swirling are still there after like three days, letting me know there is absolutely no reaction in the secondary any longer. I don't know if it is stalled or done. I would know except that while the kit I got has a hydrometer, it has no thief. Can I assume it's complete and bottle at this point or is there something else I should do first? Also, the airlock that came with my kit is apparently made for primary fermentation only I guess? It's the one that just basically looks like a shot glass, I don't have the S-curved airlock. Does this matter? Thanks to any beer doctors with some advice at this point. Not sure if it matters but it's a winter porter we followed the recipe on, I wanted to make sure I could follow basic instructions and get the process down before getting into any experimentation.

Vigorous primary fermentation should be done by now. You won't see much in the way of airlock activity from now on -- when you're agitating it you're just knocking CO2 out, which is why you get some bubbles. But it sounds like it's going well! I'd hold off bottling until at least a week or two in secondary -- I typically go 1 week primary, 2 weeks secondary, 3 weeks bottles for most beers.

Your airlock is fine -- the s-type ones are preferred by some old-school guys, and in theory they're better for long term (read: 6 months or more). They're also a complete pain in the rear end to clean, so I've never even bothered buying one.

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Feb 26, 2005

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Prefect Six posted:

Has anyone seen the Wyeast Private Collection yeasts for oct-dec on sale anywhere? After what you guys said about Saison de Noel I think I'll brew it for New Years.

Rebel Brewer has them in stock if you want to pay through the rear end for shipping, or live in TN. I got all three.

Daedalus Esquire posted:

Yesterday a Pepsi truck pulled up outside my house and a gentleman from my housemates softball team unloaded these on our driveway.



what how how do I do this

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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Prefect Six posted:

For you guys who have used 3726 before - what's a good temp to start fermentation and how high do I want to run it? I'm doing the Saison de Noel and wondering what my fermentation profile should be. Was thinking start at 70 for three days and then raise it a degree a day to 80-85?

I'm wondering this too. I'm doing the same recipe tonight. My plan has been to cool to ~70, pitch, and let it rise to ambient. The thermostat will be set to 72, but my first few batches without temp control got up to 78-80 by the LCD strip on the fermenter just from internal heat, so I'm hoping anything in the high 70s or low 80s will be OK. I don't (currently) have a way to control heating, so I have to rely on ambient. I could probably put a space heater in my closet and just only run it for a few minutes at a time.

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Feb 26, 2005

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Ubik posted:

I use Goose Island's house ale strain most of the time, though, since the lab guys will grab me a slug whenever I need it. :)

Are you in Chicago? Do you work for Goose, or can anyone ask for a jug-o-slurry? I work right by the brewpub, that would be amazing.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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BLARGHLE posted:

Unrelated, but something I've noticed reading this thread- am I the only person here who doesn't like/make belgians? Am I alone in my love of british ales and random ciders?

I'm starting to like belgians a lot more (since I started brewing, I'm starting to like a lot of beer a lot more), but until a few months ago I hated them. I've only recently started to embrace that belgian yeast-funk, and a lot of it came from drinking Saisons. Saisons are dry as a rule, typically fruity, effervescent, and refreshing, which goes a long way to make the funk more bearable.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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Duxwig posted:

I used HTB's guide to make the starter
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-5.html

It called for only 1/2 Quart(2 cups) water and 1/2c DME(used just over 2/3c LME[came with the kit] by conversion). Boiled, mixed, etc.

Two people say it should be ok so I'll stop being obsessed with it. I just want good drinkable poo poo on the first try!

It's probably gonna be fine, but for future reference, Jamil's guide to yeast starters (http://www.mrmalty.com/pitching.php) says to use 1g DME per 10ml water, so 100g for 1L. I find that's about half of what HTB (at least the online edition) says to use. That will give you a starter of about 1.040, which is what you want. Malt extract ain't cheap, so might as well use less.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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Either that kit or the Deluxe kit look good, the main difference with the deluxe kit is that it comes with a 6 gallon carboy for primary fermentation and a 5 gallon for secondary, as opposed to a bucket for primary and no secondary. I'd second getting the gravity testing kit, and keep in mind that you'll need a brew kettle -- a pot that can keep at least 3 gallons of liquid at a vigorous boil with foaming, so at the very least 4 gallons. I use a 5 gallon canning pot, which does the job, but I'm really looking to upgrade to an 8-10 gallon pot to do full boils.

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Feb 26, 2005

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Is there any drawback to rice hulls other than cost?

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Feb 26, 2005

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Jo3sh posted:

Just saw this over on homebrewfinds:
http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2013/10/reader-tip-great-deal-buy-one-bubbler.html

BOGO on Bubbler PET carboys. These are the Northern Brewer brand of Better Bottle knockoffs. I got a pair of these, and they work just fine. I paid $36 for the pair, delivered, which is really only a couple of bucks more per fermenter than buckets and lids. It seems like a reasonable price for PET carboys.

I wish they had ported ones. The racking adapter on my BB makes transferring and pulling hydrometer samples much easier.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster


Gross.

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Feb 26, 2005

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"Sure glad I didn't use that blowoff tube"

-- No One

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Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

It'll probably take 2-3 weeks to carbonate your beer in bottles. Also, there will be a layer of yeast sediment on the bottom.

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Feb 26, 2005

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SymmetryrtemmyS posted:

I had no idea a bung and airlock was so cheap. I have a few homebrew stores nearby, and I called one up for a quote - they said the very basic parts I need run about $15 all told, or a few bucks for the airlock. I think I'll try a batch of ginger beer in plastic bottles, and save up for glass to make cider in (as well as cider ingredients).

How essential/useful is it to buy raw/unfiltered apple juice for brewing? Is it worth making my own cider press? I have a tranny jack sitting around unused, and it would be -perfect- for pressing apples/fruit/things.

Flavor considerations aside, there's no problem using storebought apple juice/cider as long as it doesn't have preservatives. The purpose of the preservatives is to kill any wild yeast, but they will also kill (or at least seriously stress) the yeast you pitch as well. Pasteurized is fine, though.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

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With hot Oxy and most paper/glue labels, overnight is way overkill, 15 minutes will do usually.

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Feb 26, 2005

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I know there's some Chicago brewers here, does anyone buy grains at Brew & Grow or another LHBS and get them crushed there? I got some Caramel 20L for an extract batch this weekend and crushed it, but I don't think the crush was particularly good, there were lots of uncracked grains. I just ran it through again and it looked pretty good. For extract/steeping grains I'm not worried about it obviously, but I'm about to go all-grain and wondering if I should always double-crush, or if I'm just asking for a stuck sparge. Going to be mashing in a 10 gallon Igloo cooler with a bazooka tube.

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Feb 26, 2005

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Jerome Louis posted:

Anyone have a preferred guide for wiring up an STC-1000 for a chest freezer fermentation chamber? Going to work on this tonight and I'm not super confident with wiring stuff.

I did this one: http://www.hoptomology.com/2012/02/06/how-to-build-your-own-temperature-controller-box/

It uses a GFCI outlet, so a few caveats:
1) It's just for cooling, you can't rig the other outlet up separately for heat
2) GFCI outlets ship tripped, so it won't work until you hit the RESET button while everything's wired up nice.
3) You have to connect your wires to the correct hot/neutral terminals on the outlet, basically one set is for input and the other set is for output for daisy chain.

You can probably get away with using a stripped PC power cord, which is usually 16 AWG, but 14 AWG will be better. You can find these at the hardware store as heavy-duty extension cords.

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Feb 26, 2005

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ChickenArise posted:

What's a good length of time to give a starter? I'm actually using one for a bigger beer for the first time in what feels like forever. It's been bubbling away since last night and I'm hoping to brew this evening. I'm good, right? I know there was some conventional wisdom of 1-2 days, but I also seem to recall the girls from White Labs on the session talking about how most people don't give their starters nearly enough time. For reference, I think I'm shooting for around 1.08ish (I don't have it handy atm) and using US-05

I've heard you want to pitch at high krausen, which, on my stir plate, seems to happen in 18 hours or so. That said, I've pitched at 48 hours several times with no problems. I tend to do one day per step, so 24 hours for a simple one step starter, 48 or 72 if I'm stepping it up.

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Feb 26, 2005

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Looks like I just entered an APA in a homebrew competition...

Do they typically care if you, say, dry hopped with hops that were growing on the patio of a bar that you harvested? As long as your entry form says as much? Because I have no idea what they were. Some of them might be Cascade?

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Feb 26, 2005

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Sistergodiva posted:

^^^^^
That looks really awesome, do you grow pears yourself?




Turns out getting bottles is a pain in the rear end. I don't know how it works in the US, but here in Sweden you pay a little extra for everything that comes in glass or PET bottles, and you get it back when you return it to the store. So the stores have loads and loads of plastic crates with bottles. Supposedly you are supposed to be able to buy them for the same price they pay for them when you "return" them, but all the places I looked in have said that they can't guarantee they are clean etc etc, so we can't sell them to you. I don't really want to order 20kgs of glass bottles in the mail either. Buying some soda or really weak beer and pouring it out would be cheaper than ordering bottles online also. Having no car sucks, since I can only carry 50+ bottles so far.

How well does the re-attachable lid ones work for homemade beer? I'm not sure what they are called in english, but the ones like the Grolsch bottles? I mean if I'm gonna waste money buying bottles, I might as well get something nice that doesn't require capping.

I will say that most of us tend to just buy beer in bottles, drink it, and save the bottles. I guess beer in bottles may be less common in Sweden (I was in Stockholm for a few days one time and saw mostly cans, so maybe)?

The Grolsch-style bottles are great for homebrew, I have 10 or 12 500mL ones that I love. Mine have silicone gaskets, so I think they'll take a little longer to dry out. The rubber gaskets are super cheap though, so just get a bag and replace them if you think they're getting old.

One thing to keep in mind is you want the gasket to be wet when you "cap" it, to get a proper seal with the glass. Typically you'll be dunking them in sanitizer anyway, so it's not a big deal.

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Feb 26, 2005

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Martello posted:

My awesome father-in-law gave me a Brewer's Best starter kit for my birthday in April, and my wife and I finally brewed our first batch last month. The bottles are sitting in my basement meat-curing chamber, carbonating. They'll be ready in about two and a half weeks.

So now, of course, I want to brew about fifty different kinds of beer all at once. After Christmas we'll buy another extract recipe kit and do another big brew. After that, I want to start getting into partial mash and eventually all-grain. For partial mash, is it true that all you really need on top of the basic extract brewing equipment is a muslin bag for the grain? And is mini-mash the same thing?

What's the best homebrew supply site? My father-in-law likes Austin Homebrew and Midwest Brewing Supplies, but I find Austin to be a little pricey and Midwest doesn't have a great selection of recipes. Northern Brewer has a lot of nice equipment and somewhat cheaper recipe kits than Austin, and I just started looking at Adventures in Homebrewing and I like what I see so far.

Yes, partial mash and mini-mash are the same thing.

For partial mash, you'll also need a way of keeping your temperatures more consistent in the kettle. You know the step where you steep your specialty grains in the muslin bag somewhere between ~145F and 165F? That's effectively what you'll be doing for a partial mash, but with a lot more grain. You'll need to keep that temperature locked in probably within a degree or two. I recommend using a larger nylon bag for that.

For mail-order, I like Northern Brewer pretty well. I would recommend checking out http://www.homebrewfinds.com for deals. Also, if there's a homebrew store near you, they probably sell extract kits, which will likely be cheaper because there's no shipping. However, places that put together their own kits (like Northern Brewer) can guarantee that you're getting fresh ingredients. The Brewer's Best kits at my LHBS can sit for a while, and that's not good.

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Feb 26, 2005

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Marathanes posted:

If you're in the Chicago area, I cannot recommend Brew Camp enough. The guys there are all amazingly helpful (I've learned pretty much everything I know about brewing from this thread, the internet, and the guys at this shop) and their prices aren't as outrageous as some I've seen. I can't speak to their shipping however, as I generally just go in when I want to make something.

I only went in there once, it seemed nice. Do you know if they have a mill, and do you have any experience with it? Brew & Grow has a mill, but the crush isn't great. Last time I double crushed and it seemed better, but I'm worried about a stuck sparge.

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Feb 26, 2005

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Jacobey000 posted:

2 - Brew Camp is right down the street from me; are you or more falafel in Squarekegs? Are there goons in the homebrew club meetings I've been going to and didn't know :tinfoil:

I'm not. I went to a CHAOS open house a couple weeks ago, which was neat, so I've been thinking about joining up with them. If Squarekegs is meeting on the 26th this month, I definitely won't be able to go, but I did sign one of my beers up for Winterbrew (and I'm thinking about another one, if it carbs up in time).

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Feb 26, 2005

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CapnBry posted:

I used to do this and it works great. If you assume that the yeast are equally distributed in the amount you pour off, a 1.040SG starter will have roughly 50 billion cells in it, plus a portion of whatever you started with. 50 billion isn't the 100 billion you could get from a fresh smack pack, but it doesn't seem to matter if you only do a few generations.

First step: 1L starter + smack pack + 0.5L additional for saving = roughly 250 billion cells. Pouring off 500ml you get 83 billion cells.
Second step: 1L starter + 83 billion + 0.5L additional for saving = 233 billion. Your 500ml is now only 77 billion.

What I've started doing instead is adding 1L of 1.040SG wort to the starter flask after I've pitched my yeast. The yeast left behind go to town on the new wort and make a new 100 billion cells. There's a limiting factor in yeast reproduction though so I'm not sure if I'm getting the full 100 billion but I do end up with more white stuff. Not really a fair example but:


The two on the left are from 250ml pour-offs and the one on the right is from a 1L re-started starter. I don't have the space to make an extra 1L when I make a starter so this re-starting process lets me use more yeast when I pitch at the expense of doing a new "starter" while the beer is fermenting.

I have a 2L flask, so if I'm making a 1L starter I just make a 2L starter instead, pour half into a quart jar, cold crash it, and then I can decant into a pint jar half-full of microwaved/cooled water. I end up with a little under 100ml of slurry, which is almost a smack-pack anyway. Still gonna use a starter for it when I want to use it again, but I feel pretty good about using it for a few generations.

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more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

Jacobey000 posted:

It's on the 19th; they moved it a week earlier due to x-mas. If you are interested. I think it's at the Grafton (maybe?) this month instead of the Dank Haus.

Ah, well then I can't make it. Maybe next month.

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