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From what I have read, late extract additions also help prevent scorching. Less scorching means less off flavors and a lighter color beer. Wish I had known this before my extract Hefeweizen attempt. I was wondering why it came out so dark. Oh well... next time.
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Sep 25, 2011 02:50
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Question about temperature control during fermentation. Should I place the thermostat probe in water or have it exposed to the the air? I've been experimenting with it in a glass of water and the air in the fridge is of course getting cold well before the water. So by the time the condenser shuts off there is a good 10 degree difference between the air and water. The water temp keeps dropping. For instance: Right now air temp is 55 and water is 64. My target temp is 68 for a hefe. What matters more? Temp of wort or temp of air around the wort?
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Oct 2, 2011 05:38
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Ok here's my stupid easy extract Hefe recipe (2.5 gallon): 12.0 oz DME Wheat Bavarian (Briess) [Boil for60 min](3.4 SRM) 0.34 oz Hallertau [4.30 %] - Boil 60.0 min 2 lbs 3.0 oz DME Wheat Bavarian (Briess) [Boil for15 min](3.4 SRM) 0.34 oz Hallertau [4.30 %] - Boil 60.0 min Wyeast Labs #3068 Beersmith 2 tells me this results in 5.4% ABV, 14 IBU, 3.9 SRM Yep... going for Weihenstephaner clone. One problem. Not really getting that ginormous beautiful foamy head, retention, and lacing. Is there anything I can add/steep to aid in this? I was thinking CaraPils. The flavor is very close to perfect. Don't want to mess with that any...
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Oct 6, 2011 03:27
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http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202090128/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&superSkuId=202939027 Would something like this work for removing/replacing the door shelving from a minifridge? I can make my 3 gallon better bottle fit without taking them out, but the door is pressing on it and tilting it. Using a 12 pack of soda to keep the door from springing open. Ghetto fabulous!
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Oct 7, 2011 22:09
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beetlo posted:http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202090128/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&superSkuId=202939027 Well gently caress it doesn't matter what material I buy. Good ole Haier GLUED the shelves to the door. And not just around the edges. It's glued to the insulation too, it seems. I mean, I'm sure I could keep prying until it comes off, but I'll most likely destroy the shelves and probably damage the door in the process. LAME. Edit: I just realized it doesn't have to look good in there. Redneck engineering away! Hacked the 2 offending shelves off with a utility knife and a hacksaw. Taped over the bare insulation areas with duct tape. Good to go. beetlo fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Oct 8, 2011 |
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Oct 8, 2011 01:00
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I need a simple extract recipe for an American Wheat. I just want to use it as a base for fruity wheat beers. Basically I need to know what hops and yeast to use...
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Oct 15, 2011 02:36
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Ok I need some quick translations from the Clone Brews ingredients/terminology to that of Brewmaster's Warehouse. Belgian Cara-Munich = Weyermann Cara Munich I? German dark Munich = Gambrinus Dark Munich? German dark crystal = Briess Caramel 60? (The recipe calls for 65, 60 is close) Also... it is an extract recipe, but it calls for sparging after the steeping. Is sparging doable with just some pots and a grain bag?
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Oct 19, 2011 23:53
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Well that works out just great since I'm doing half batches.  Thanks!
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Oct 20, 2011 01:37
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Another sort of noobish question for you guys. How do you monitor the water temp while mashing/steeping/brewing/cooling? I find standing there with a lab thermometer is far from ideal. It reacts too slowly to temp changes, I don't like taking the lid off while cooling, and it's just a pain in general. Everything I have read says the floating types can't handle boiling water, so what good are they exactly? I'm thinking one of those remote probe meat thermometer type dealies. The probe can just sit in there during all phases of the brewing process. Any thoughts?
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Oct 26, 2011 22:56
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That's exactly what I mean. mewse: Taking a floating thermometer out of 160 degree water is not my idea of a good time. I want something that can stay in the wort the whole way. 1 less thing to worry about sanitizing is always good.
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Oct 26, 2011 23:22
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Yeah definitely would like to jump on that. What's the coupon?
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Oct 27, 2011 18:53
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So I'm about to attempt the Ayinger Oktoberfest clone from Clone Brews and I'm a little bit confused. I'm doing the extract recipe. The first step is to STEEP (yes it says steep) 8oz Cara-Munich, 8oz dark Munich, and 3oz dark crystal for 30 minutes at 150. Ok cool I can handle that. However, the next step is "Strain the grain water into your brew pot. Sparge the grains with 1/2 gallon of water at 150f." Uhhh isn't sparging something done when you mash? I know I mentioned this earlier in the thread, but I find it very odd that they would instruct you to sparge for an extract recipe. I wouldn't be doing extract if I had the proper equipment for mashing and sparging...
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Nov 6, 2011 03:56
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I agree that it's pretty much a mini-mash, but at the bottom of the page they have mini-mash directions. Basically more grain and less DME. Good times. I figure scoop the grain bag out, place a splatter screen over the pot with the grain bag on it, and pour my sparge water slowly over it. I can handle it, I just find the instructions slightly misleading. It helps that I'm actually cutting it in half. My fridge isn't big enough for a full batch carboy or bucket.
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Nov 6, 2011 07:08
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Speaking of cider... I almost had a serious cider disaster today. I was following the apfelwein recipe that Hypnoblaster posted only cut down. I cut it in half like I usually do for beer recipes. Only problem is I'm only making a gallon. WAAAAAAYYYY too much dextrose. Luckily I didn't go all out and put a full pound in for super strength. 12 ounces. So I had to run to the store and get another gallon of cider. Now the 2 gallons is sitting in my 3 gallon carboy. I'm gonna need the carboy in the next 4 months, though. So would it be ok to get another gallon jug and move the cider yet again into two containers? Shake it up some to make sure the yeast is evenly distributed or something?
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Nov 9, 2011 05:19
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Ok cool. I should have been more specific about my carboy needs. I'm going to need it in about a week to start that crazy steep and sparge lager. So it's really done fermenting in a matter of weeks. The 4-6 months is really conditioning that can be done in bottles? Additional sugar to carb?
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Nov 9, 2011 05:34
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Started another Hefe today. 2.5 gallon using a 1 liter starter (no stirplate) of Wyeast 3068. 1 hour later and it's already bubbling into the blowoff. I'm making starters for everything from now on. Might even look into a DIY stirplate.
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Nov 10, 2011 00:09
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How can TSP be phosphate free? The P does stand for phosphate, doesn't it?
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Nov 11, 2011 00:54
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Since I love love love wheat beers and I had success with the Hefe, I'm looking to try a Weizenbock next. Want to try to clone Vitus. The thing is... from the short research I've done it requires ridiculous attenuation. Starting gravity of 1.068 and final of 1.009. That doesn't seem attainable with extract and wheat yeast. Seems like it would even be difficult to pull off with all grain. So what about using some sort of sugar? I've read mixed things about it. Cidery off flavors and whatnot. From playing around in beersmith, it seems possible to lower the extract amount and up the sugar to get close to the right numbers (Couple of points too high on the final gravity).
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Nov 11, 2011 21:35
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Sounds reasonable enough. Otherwise the recipe is almost exactly the same as the hefe. Add sugar, a little more hops, and a medium color specialty grain for color (Vitus is extremely light and technically is outside the style guidelines but is still darker than Weissbier). Oh and something to clarify. Irish Moss I suppose...
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Nov 11, 2011 22:10
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Has anyone here used Munich LME before? Good for German lagers? Seems like it would greatly simplify this Oktoberfest recipe I'm about to try. Simple is good. Less things to gently caress up and all...
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Nov 18, 2011 02:46
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Briess, but it appears to be basically the same thing. 50/50 mix of munich and a base malt.
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Nov 18, 2011 07:28
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Well I overshot the starting gravity on my Oktoberfest by quite a bit. 1.068 when it was supposed to be 1.056. I'm thinking I'll either dilute it when moving to secondary or perhaps right before bottling. More beer... I guess. Does this sound reasonable? As far as why I overshot... Probably because this recipe was more of a partial/mini mash than a full extract beer (Beersmith calculated based on extract). Actually got fermentables from the grains instead of just some color and flavor.
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Nov 19, 2011 06:08
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tesilential posted:If you got the volume you wanted, don't even dilute it, just enjoy the stronger beer! It's like a .5% difference in ABV. That HAS to gently caress up the flavor I'm going for. It was already on the high end for the style before I messed up.
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Nov 20, 2011 00:33
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I would have to taste it before bottling and carbing. Hard to really judge it at that point. I will probably end up leaving it alone, though. For some extra content. Cooler mash tun. I've seen the thread over at homebrewtalk about converting, but the guy lists all these 5/8" parts that are rather difficult to find (the o-ring and washers especially). Seems you would want to go 1/2" to make everything easier. Fill any gaps with high temp caulk or something. *shrug* beetlo fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Nov 20, 2011 |
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Nov 20, 2011 23:47
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Edit: Never mind. I can make this work. I just hate searching for stuff. Want to go to store. Get what I need. Leave.
beetlo fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Nov 21, 2011 |
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Nov 21, 2011 03:46
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Working on my first all grain batch today. 2.5 gallon Hefeweizen (cuz I love it and it's easy). Hit the pre-boil gravity spot on! About 73% efficiency. 
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Nov 26, 2011 23:42
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GonadTheBallbarian posted:So, bottling/conditioning my black IPA tonight, but I can't get a straight answer on conditioning... The dude at the brew shop said 1oz of sucrose per gallon of beer, but the book linked in the OP puts it at about 2-2.5oz for my slightly-less-than 5gal brew. It depends on how high of a carb level you want. 2oz for 5 gallons seems really low to me. Ounce per gallon seems more reasonable. I just use beersmith to figure it out, but this website seems pretty cool: http://www.byo.com/resources/carbonation
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Nov 29, 2011 01:15
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How does this look for a dunkelweizen? Reusing my 3068 as much as possible before spending money on a different variety of yeast.. 2.5 gallon batch. 4.0 oz Rice Hulls (0.0 SRM) 2 lbs 15.6 oz Wheat Malt, Pale (Weyermann) (2.0 SRM) 1 lbs 14.3 oz Pilsner (2 Row) Ger (2.0 SRM) 3.7 oz Chocolate Wheat (Weyermann) (415.0 SRM) 0.461 oz Hallertau [4.30 %] - Boil 45.0 min 14.0 IBUs
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Dec 2, 2011 02:50
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Is there a good online source for whole hops? If I'm gonna do more lagers (I really want to), I want to strain out as much of the break material and hops as possible before primary. That's really hard to do with pellets. They don't stay in hop bags and they clog my strainer.
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Dec 5, 2011 05:32
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Docjowles posted:Hopsdirect.com Thanks. No Hallertau on either, though. Well not the proper German variety at least. :\ I'm looking for in bulk. Vacuum sealer.
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Dec 5, 2011 05:41
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I'll get the US substitute for now and keep an eye out for the next harvest. The substitute version is more expensive for some reason, though.
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Dec 5, 2011 06:21
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I've revised my mash schedule for my german wheats to add in an acid rest. A little research around the interwebs indicates that an acid rest brings out more clove aroma and flavor (I'm getting a little too much banana and I can't really lower my ferment temp much). I also discovered that I mashed something more like a medium to light body beer when I want full body. Too long at the wrong temperature. tl;dr: Double Infusion w/ batch sparge 111 for 15 minutes 150 for 45 minutes Batch sparge 168 I've seen all kinds of crazy mash schedules with multiple sacch rests and even a protein rest (for a hefe that seems stupid). Of course decoction as well. Don't want to open that can of worms quite yet. Opinions on this relatively simple one?
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Dec 10, 2011 01:52
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indigi posted:If you want fuller body I'd suggest mashing at at least 154*, 150* is pretty low. Also with only 45 minutes I'd worry about complete conversion at that 150* with so much wheat. Yeah that was a concern. Gonna be tough to reach 154 unless I adjust the grain ratio for the acid rest. Hmmm... Edit: I'm using a cooler for the mash tun so I can't direct fire to up temps. Revised: 111 for 20 minutes. 1.0 qt/lb 154 for 60 minutes. 2.0 qt/lb The added water will have to be 205 for this to happen according to beersmith. Yikes. beetlo fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Dec 10, 2011 |
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Dec 10, 2011 02:43
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Docjowles posted:You could also add body to some extent by including flaked oats or another body building grain in the recipe. Although that might not be Indeed it wouldn't. I'm trying to do things the Weihenstephan way. Of course I'm pretty sure they decoct, but whatever. Edit: Holy crap my minifridge is at 29 degrees. Didn't think it could go that low. I am helping it with milk jugs of ice, but still. Might have to lager colder and longer.
beetlo fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Dec 10, 2011 |
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Dec 10, 2011 03:47
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Reinheitsgebot
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Here's a sort of wacky idea I've had about the problems of step mashing in a cooler. Since you have to start with such a low water to grist ratio to even squeeze in two temperature steps, why not heat the runnings? Like... drain the tun, heat the runnings to the next step temp plus a few degrees, place back in the tun and get a temp reading, add more heated water to adjust as needed? Seems overly complicated at first, but with a decent calculator on hand it seems doable. Thoughts?
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Dec 13, 2011 22:04
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Jo3sh posted:Seems like RIMS or HERMS would be easier and more effective. And much more expensive.
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Dec 13, 2011 22:17
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Ugggh I think my first attempt at all grain got infected. Strong vinegar aroma and a little bit of taste. Certainly doesn't taste of cloves and banana. Now I'm worried about the next batch. Definitely throwing out the yeast I washed from that batch and starting with a new smack pack. Bleh. Edit: Oh yeah same nasty smell in the dunkel. gently caress. Bleach bath time for all my equipment. beetlo fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Dec 15, 2011 |
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Dec 15, 2011 06:11
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Docjowles posted:
Better bottle carboy. Never used a brush. Just gonna bleach the gently caress out of it. The racking canes are plastic. Might replace those. Hoses are getting bleach treatment as well. I'm pretty certain it was the yeast reuse. New batch of starsan is also in order. Temperature never went above 68 for either. The first time I brewed from extract, it hit low 70s. No problems. May have been the best one. The hoses are silcone and a little more than just a couple bucks to replace. More like a couple bucks a foot. They can actually be baked to sterilize. Racking cane is an autosiphon. $10. I'm unemployed. Can't just be throwing poo poo out if it can possibly be salvaged... The blowoff tube is getting replaced for sure. Cheap plastic. Edit: Now I won't have to worry about bottles for the next batch after dumping all the vinegar bombs! The bottles get oven sterilized. Always look on the bright side of life...
beetlo fucked around with this message at 09:59 on Dec 15, 2011 |
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Dec 15, 2011 07:02
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Sorry to hear that dude. A couple other things to consider
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More on the giant batch ruining infection I seem to have going. Took a whiff of the Oktoberfest I have going. Same smell. I brewed that stuff a month ago, too. Now I'm pretty certain it's the blowoff/siphon hose that is ruined. That bitch is hard to clean and probably got scratched in the process. Plus it has that same awful smell even after soaking in Oxiclean for a few hours. Still going through with the scorched earth mega bleach on everything. New hose ordered. New ingredients ordered. 3 ruined batches. At least my batches are 2.5 gallon instead of 5 or *gasp* 10.
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Dec 15, 2011 20:07
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Noghri_ViR posted:First try PBW. That just does a better job then Oxiclean. If that doesn't work then try beer line cleaner instead. Meh. $1.40 to replace and not worry if it's scratched on the inside and will never be truly clean again. Worth it.
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Dec 15, 2011 21:30
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