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Haha, I literally just PMed you asking about a new thread. Hello I want to thank indigi who gave me advice for a special bitter recipe in the last thread. I screwed up volumes and ended up with 7 gallons instead of 6, but apparently it just became a standard bitter and it tastes great.
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Sep 17, 2011 06:11
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Globochem posted:I'm anxious to get my first brew started but I'm concerned about getting the wort down to pitch temperature. I don't really have the money to invest in an immersion chiller so I'm looking for the most efficient and cheap way to do this. i used to buy a couple bags of ice and cool the wort in my sink by immersing the pot in cold water + ice. the ice is crucial because it floats and heat rises. now i've got a couple of freezer bags that i fill with my tray ice and use that
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Sep 23, 2011 03:02
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TenjouUtena posted:Does anyone have a good site to find extract recipes? I want to start and ESB, an Porter and several other styles, but I can't seem to find a reliable source of starter recipes to adapt. The recipes on the beersmith site are categorized into all grain and extract, there's usually several extract recipes for every style
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Sep 25, 2011 22:09
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bottling day!!
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Sep 26, 2011 04:11
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Hypnolobster posted:HOLY GOD, why didn't I ever think of tipping the bucket in the sink. hahaha, i was looking at your pictures and thinking "drat i'm following up the professional engineer over here with my ghetto setup," i'm glad you got something out of the photo 
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Sep 26, 2011 04:30
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The guy who runs candisyrup.com has a vested interest in telling you the only "authentic" product is going to come from you paying him money
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Oct 7, 2011 15:32
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primary fermentation is when the yeast converts all the simple sugars into alcohol. you shouldn't transfer to the secondary fermenter until your beer has reached final gravity. when you transfer too early you can end up with a "stuck" fermentation http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-4.html
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Oct 13, 2011 20:08
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Morbid Florist posted:I'm following the kit recipe, and it says to move/dry hop 3-4 days in. RiggenBlaque posted:Uck, secondaries - the scourge of homebrewing instructions
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Oct 13, 2011 21:50
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I've become really comfortable with specialty grains but I'd like to jump to the simple mini-mash described on HBT to make an oatmeal stout. I make six gallon batches with a base of 7lb pale LME. Does a half pound each of 2-row, roasted barley, flaked barley, 77L crystal, and instant oatmeal seem OK for the mini-mash? How much water would it need with 2.5lb of grain? I'm not sure how "conversion" is handled with unmalted oatmeal and barley in the mix.
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Oct 18, 2011 03:21
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Jo3sh posted:Keep the whole thing between 150 and 160 for an hour, drain to your main boiler, and add water to make your preboil volume plus your malt extract. The easy mini mash thing describes sparging in a second pot, that would be a good idea right? 1 hr at ~155 to mash, then 15 minute sparge? e: I love this thread so much, always helping with my stupid questions mewse fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Oct 18, 2011 |
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Oct 18, 2011 03:34
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wafflesnsegways posted:I've got a conditioning question. My beers usually have a bit of chill haze that goes away after a few weeks in the fridge. Maybe it's my imagination, but I think the beers taste a bit cleaner after the time in the fridge as well. I don't think that's chill haze, it sounds like you're causing the yeast to settle out by cold crashing it. It will probably stay clear after you've pulled it out of the fridge, but you're also basically halting the bottle conditioning process.
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Oct 20, 2011 20:19
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renting that 20lb tank for 3 years will be $165. for the same money you can buy the $85 tank outright and refill it 7 times
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Oct 21, 2011 16:59
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Water? Like from the toilet?
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Oct 24, 2011 01:01
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indigi posted:I really am at a loss for words. What? sorry. it's one of my favourite lines from the movie idiocracy. it's set in the future where drinking water has been replaced with a type of gatorade
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Oct 24, 2011 01:49
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beetlo posted:Everything I have read says the floating types can't handle boiling water 150-160 is not boiling and you don't need to measure the temperature of boiling water (its capped at boiling point)
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Oct 26, 2011 23:16
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kaishek posted:There's no reason the ingredients would go bad, right? DME and LME? DME has a long shelf life but LME darkens and gets off flavours, just a sec Brewing Classic Styles posted:Liquid malt extract typically has a shelf life of about two years if stored at or below room temperature, during which time its color will approximately double. The Maillard reactions that are responsible for the color change can generate off-flavors like licorice, molasses, and ballpoint pen aroma. Beer brewed with old extract syrup may have a dull, bitter, and/or soapy flavor to it. These flavors are caused by the oxidation of the phenols and fatty acid compounds in the malt. These off-flavors are part of a group that is collectively known as "extract twang." Homebrewers will often complain that they can't make good beer with extract, but it's usually just a matter of freshness. mewse fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Nov 14, 2011 |
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Oct 28, 2011 03:39
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Dolemite posted:Lately, I've been day dreaming of ways to to cool down hot wort quickly. Just as a thought experiment. One idea I had: What if I were to hack apart an old window A/C unit to use as a wort chiller?  build a wort chiller with copper tube and avoid the toxic refrigerant. there are probably a million DIY plans on the internet
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Nov 8, 2011 05:18
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indigi posted:what are the odds that it's ruined? oxyclean's active ingredient is sodium percarbonate, it breaks down into "hydrogen peroxide (which eventually decomposes to water and oxygen) and sodium carbonate ("soda ash")": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_percarbonate so i'd suspect the minerals you saw on the side of your carboy are probably sodium carbonate, which isn't toxic. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_carbonate i don't know what sort of off flavour it might contribute to your brew, but you should be safe to taste it.
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Nov 11, 2011 18:50
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Went to buy ingredients for the ESB i've brewed previously. The hop schedule looks like: 60 min: 1oz fuggles 15 min: 1oz fuggles + 1oz golding 5 min: 1oz golding they were out of fuggles so i bought cascade based on alpha acid since it's mainly for bittering. it won't turn out terrible will it?
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Nov 14, 2011 19:38
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OK. my tasting palette sucks and i just want drinkable beer so i'll give it a shot and see what happens.
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Nov 14, 2011 20:01
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Raveen posted:Does extract ever go bad? My friend was moving gave me some dry and canned liquid extract which is probably round 2-3 years old? liquid ages worse than dry, i transcribed a section of "brewing classic styles" in this post
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Nov 14, 2011 22:08
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Caustic posted:Anyone tried aging/fermenting in a bourbon barrel? Where did you get yours, and how the hell do you keep it sanitized? although i haven't read anything about it, i would guess you wouldn't want to use it as a primary fermenter
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Nov 23, 2011 19:23
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Dolemite posted:* My efficiency sucked hard and I don't know why. i've never brewed all-grain but i was just reading the all grain section of how to brew a few hours ago. it doesn't use the BIAB method so forgive me, i'll just point out a couple things that stuck out to me: - there's a calculation for a certain amount of mash water needed per pound of grain (i think it's 2 quarts per pound?) - he heats the water to ~165, pre-heats the mash tun (water cooler or whatever) with some boiled water, and then adds the water a jug at a time to the grain, stirring after each jug. he ends up at his approx mash temp, there's some calculation for this too. - i'd suspect your 6mo old crushed grain, because palmer says crushed grain stays fresh for a couple weeks. it probably keeps better un-crushed, i dunno anyway congrats on your first all grain batch i'm in a tiny apt so i'm still thinking about doing my first mini-mash
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Nov 27, 2011 07:20
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Prefect Six posted:I'm running into a wall with finding a place to meet. A lot of the places (restaurants mostly) are saying it would violate their liquor license to bring in outside alcohol for consumption. Has anyone else run into this and have any tips on how to deal with it? I think the place we typically meet is just letting us bring in stuff at risk of their license (which doesn't make sense since it's a shop that exclusively sells alcoholic beverages). However we're growing and looking for a new venue, thus the wall. Looks like missouri has a tasting license for $25/yr.. wikipedia: alcohol laws of missouri led me to this page: missouri liquor control law e: theres also stuff about microbrewing in these laws: http://www.moga.mo.gov/statutes/C300-399/3110000195.HTM mewse fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Nov 28, 2011 |
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Nov 28, 2011 20:18
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honestly it might be easiest if you could get a hold of missouri's "supervisor of alcohol and tobacco control" office, tell them you are a homebrew club and you want to stay legal, and ask where you are allowed to meet. cheaper than hiring a lawyer anyways
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Nov 28, 2011 20:25
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The Phantom Goat posted:I want to start homebrewing soon (maybe santa will bring me the stuff), but i'm curious... How likely is it that my first batch of beer will be drinkable? I mean, will I be able to make some decent out of the gate or will it take a couple tries before I have something I can drink and share with friends? I spent a lot of time reading howtobrew.com before my first batch. I think the main thing for getting a drinkable first batch is that you get good ingredients for an extract brew rather than using a canned kit.
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Dec 3, 2011 19:49
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I'm going to be brewing my first batches soon (extract kits from morebeer) and I'd like to reuse beer bottles. I've been cleaning and saving them for a while and just realized that some are twist-off and some are pry-off. From what I've read online it seems like the handheld capper only works with pry-off bottles, but you can get a bench capper that works with twist-off bottles. I'm in Canada and I have a bench capper so I just use regular twist-off bottles. I've read warnings about American twist-off bottles not having very strong necks. I'm not sure if they'll work with the wing capper, hopefully someone else will chime in.
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Dec 7, 2011 00:54
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mindphlux posted:yeast was just a packet of danstar nottingham why... what... why...
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Dec 13, 2011 21:28
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GonadTheBallbarian posted:I'm wondering if my black IPA got infected Yeast settles out in the bottle. Is this your first batch?
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Dec 15, 2011 18:57
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Jo3sh posted:I am betting it's fine - that's just normal sediment. To double check, pour one into a glass and give it a good smell and taste. There is nothing harmful that can live in beer that does not smell and taste bloody loving awful, so if it seems beerlike and you are interested in drinking it, it's just fine. he posted earlier saying its drinkable, just a bit harsh so it sounds like a standard young IPA with the yeast layer e: that bottle rested on its side right? yeast settles to the bottom, it's more sludge than sediment mewse fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Dec 15, 2011 |
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Dec 15, 2011 19:07
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GonadTheBallbarian posted:For tops 15 mins. It went to the bottom after righting it while we were posting, I just didn't want to hand the bottle off to someone and have them get a nasty sickness or something. it's fine, dude. here's palmer on pouring/drinking homebrew: quote:One final item that nobody ever remembers to tell new brewers until it's too late is: "Don't drink the yeast layer on the bottom of the bottle." People will say, "My first homebrew was pretty good, but that last swallow was terrible!" or "His homebrew really gave me gas" or "It must have been spoiled, I had to go to the bathroom right away after I drank it." Welcome to the laxative effects of live yeast!
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Dec 15, 2011 19:20
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Midorka posted:I was actually reading that site in conjunction with a book to learn to brew, I assume it's up to date and worth reading then? It's not up to date, it is worth reading. The print version of How To Brew is the 3rd edition, the free online version is the 1st edition. I bought the 3rd edition and I don't notice much difference, I think mainly he nailed down and expanded some of the advanced topics in the book. quote:Also some beers recommend you pour sediment, why is that? For some beer the yeast flavour is part of the style. Hefeweizen literally translates to "yeast wheat"
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Dec 15, 2011 19:34
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I think I'm going to buckle and order star san from morebeer because I have no idea where to find it locally in Winnipeg, or even a reputable online shop in Canada. Anyone know a morebeer extract/minimash kit that is something special that you wouldn't be able to find at your LHBS?
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Dec 15, 2011 21:37
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Darth Goku Jr posted:I enjoyed their Pliny the Elder clone kit, and it was nice because some of the hop varieties can be a bitch to find on their own. I'm not big on hoppy stuff.. their malty brown ale looks compelling because of the munich extract..
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Dec 15, 2011 22:50
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RiggenBlaque posted:I've used aluminum pots for the last 3 years now on dozens and dozens of batches. Nothing wrong with aluminum Yep. My brewpot is a crappy $20 5 gallon aluminum. It came with a lid and some kinda false bottom that's gonna come in handy when I start doing mini-mashes.
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Dec 16, 2011 18:35
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What would be the closest sub for victory malt in a recipe? Biscuit malt maybe?
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Dec 18, 2011 00:27
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indigi posted:Franco-Belges' Kiln Amber That's DEFINITELY not at my LHBS. I met the owner today and asked him about victory malt because it seems like it's in half the recipes from Brewing Classic Styles, he didn't even know what it was. I think I'll try subbing in biscuit malt to the book's oatmeal stout recipe sometime next year.
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Dec 18, 2011 00:41
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PokeJoe posted:My roommates keep telling me to go for it so I can tell them about it. it's always fun being the guinea pig..
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Dec 18, 2011 05:06
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Dolemite posted:Worst Homebrew Ingredient 2011
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Dec 18, 2011 23:51
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BerkerkLurk posted:The basic recipe was 50/50 munich and rye malt isn't 50% rye malt a hell of a lot or is that what the roggenbock style entails? e: VVVVVVVVV ah, ok mewse fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Dec 19, 2011 |
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Dec 19, 2011 18:27
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