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Devian666 posted:spectrum pic Did you change the name of your neighbour's wireless network? I hope you did, because that rules. Alternatively, it could be your neighbour providing the area with a PSA about router security.
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Nov 3, 2011 03:11
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Mr Man posted:I had a tompson router like his, and seriously no, switching off everything but the modem functions wont let the modem handle anything... This sentence doesn't make any sense to me. Could you please explain what you mean?
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Dec 4, 2011 16:37
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Eight Is Legend posted:It's working now for some reason So when I suggested the thread title, this is what I meant. Things work or don't work or fluctuate between the two for apparently no reason.
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Dec 7, 2011 16:27
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londerwost posted:What does it mean? The bad kind of wireless magic appears to be happening. See if not using the new laptop helps things at all.
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Dec 17, 2011 06:54
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eightysixed posted:How long, approximately, will it take to move 1.5TB of data over a regular, wired network? That depends on a lot of things. If you have gigabit ethernet and it's a home network type deal, then you could probably looking somewhere in the 500-900 Mbps throughput range. Thus it would take between approximately 4 and 7 hours to transfer 1.5TB. If it's only 100 Mb, it would take about 8-10 times that long. This assumes that you're not reading/writing from/to a USB (2.0) drive which have worse throughout than a good gigabit network.
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Dec 20, 2011 23:00
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eightysixed posted:Ah. 4 hours is alright, 7 is a bit extreme, only because the data has to be moved back over. It's a Linksys E2000, so it's Gigabit. That would be faster. Depending upon the quality of the drives involved, up to about twice as fast (unless you have some really incredible hardware), so 2 hours. But, if your drives aren't that great, it might be closer to 4 hours. Smokey, if you don't have Dropbox set up, you could try https://www.yousendit.com/.
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Dec 21, 2011 00:36
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JDRockefeller posted:Cable modem issues Very important: do you know the difference between Mb (megabits) and MB (megabytes)?
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Jan 22, 2012 00:27
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Ramadu posted:So, since I am pretty much computer illiterate when it comes to networking and the title really does seem apt, can someone explain to me why i have to reset my router and modem what feels like an increasingly frequent number of times in order to get my internet running at what should be a normal faster speed? The thread title says it all. Although, you may have a lovely modem and/or router. You should make sure that you're running the latest firmware for your router (in theory this is also true for your modem, but things are much more murky).
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Jan 23, 2012 06:15
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Ramadu posted:Well the router is 4 years old now and is still at the default firmware. My roomate is an idiot and tried to log into the wireless network and ended up changing the login to the router so i have no way to get into it. The modem is also either 8 or 9 years old. I expect maybe its time to get new ones. Does anyone have a rough idea of how much new cable modems from Cox cost? I can't help with modems. In terms of your router, you can do a hard reset (down the little button on the back with a paperclip/pen) which will turn it back to factory default settings. You'll have to re-input all your settings, but it'll give you access again (including the ability to update the firmware).
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Jan 23, 2012 20:26
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Prefect Six posted:Picked up a WNDR3700 off amazon and got V3 The stock firmware on the 3700 is pretty good actually. I'd only flash it if there are some things you want to be able to change, but can't normally. This will probably not be an issue, though.
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Feb 4, 2012 02:06
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so I guess I'm hosed for DD-WRT or any other third party firmware.
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SplitSoul posted:Any helpful thoughts? So many things could be going wrong, but I'd start by making sure you have the latest firmware installed. You can find that out by heading over to D-Link's support page for your router.
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Feb 22, 2012 15:41
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SplitSoul posted:It's running v8.00, but there's apparently a v8.01 out. I'll give that a shot. One thing to note, always use a wired connection when updating firmware. The obvious things to try are unplugging everything and plugging back in as well as checking if you have any devices (microwave, cordless phone, etc.) that might be causing interference (check if your drops are associated with the use of such devices). Another thing you can try if you have a bunch of networks in your area is to download this and then change to a channel where the interference is smallest. (Wherever you access the advanced wireless settings on your router, there should be an option to change the channel.) If none of this works you can try installing the custom firmware DD-WRT. The process will sound a little intimidating and you could totally brick your router, but the next recommended step after this is to buy a new router, so you might as well try.
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Feb 22, 2012 17:25
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SplitSoul posted:I'll give the channel switching a try. I'm almost positive the problem is due to it being set up incorrectly, but I suppose its firmware could be total poo poo compared to the old one's even though it's the same brand. I can't imagine what about it being set up incorrectly would have the symptoms you're describing. However, lovely routers or lovely firmware frequently have these symptoms. For example, one thing that could be going on is that your router is overheating or just having trouble under load. Wireless networking is incredibly fickle, which is the inspiration for the thread title. Your IP hypothesis is unlikely, since the whole purpose of the router is that it handles that stuff nicely. You could also try putting it back to basically default settings (no password on wireless, no MAC filtering, etc.), but it probably won't work.
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Feb 23, 2012 17:28
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evilweasel posted:Bad connection to your computer. There is a very reasonable chance that your Ethernet card is busted. You might consider getting a new one.
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Feb 27, 2012 00:33
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SplitSoul posted:I didn't see an option for AP in the setup and there's no DD-WRT version for the H1 yet, but I'll try googling a bit. Here's what your router's manual has to say on the topic dlink posted:If you are connecting the D-Link router to another router to use as a wireless access point and/or switch, you will have to do the following before connecting the router to your network:
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Mar 2, 2012 01:32
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Golbez posted:Update: Since plugging my router back into the modem, it seemed fine for a couple of days, but now it's fallen back into its pattern of disconnecting me. I had very similar issues a little while ago and it turned out to be a network issue upstream of the ISP. You should definitely contact your ISP immediately, since it's either your modem or a network issue on their end.
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Mar 13, 2012 16:00
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TomWaitsForNoMan posted:I did this and switched to a much less congested channel, but it didn't seem to affect transfer rates any Do you have any way to test wired transfer speeds? If they are fine, it's possible you have a bad wireless card involved in the mix.
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Mar 28, 2012 23:37
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TomWaitsForNoMan posted:Wired transfer speeds are absolutely fine, and I'm having the slow wireless issue on both my laptop and my ipad. The machine I'm transferring the files from has a wired connection to the router so it's not at that end either. Yeah, I'd try installing third-party firmware and your router and see where that gets you.
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Mar 29, 2012 21:47
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Is the 2.4 GHz spectrum congested at all?
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Apr 4, 2012 03:17
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Devian666 posted:It's very likely to be congested. 5 Ghz is the luxury band that no one else uses so you get full speed. Please refer to the links in the op for inSSIDer or the android app (there'll be an iphone app somewhere as well). Sorry, that was actually a reply to poxin, not a general question.
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Apr 4, 2012 18:41
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Roving Reporter posted:Ever since installing the gimped version of DD-WRT on my WRT54G2, my wireless has been flaky, to say the least. It's been going in and out every so often and hasn't been that reliable. I'm running the WNDR 3700 and it's stock firmware is pretty good (my unit's been incredibly stable). I'm pretty sure Devian has said something similar in the past too. I got mine refurbished for under $100.
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Apr 26, 2012 13:03
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Bunk Rogers posted:I have a 4th generation Airport Extreme and my family does a lot of streaming. Im not savvy enough to figure out if getting something like the RT-N16 would be noteable difference. Are you experiencing any performance issues with your current router (e.g. streams buffering)? Also when you say streaming, do you mean of online media, or stuff within your local network?
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Apr 29, 2012 19:15
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SplitSoul posted:PC running XP 32-bit. Thing is, it worked flawlessly when I first hooked it up, now I can't pull any data through even though the signal strength is good. Can the PC access the router page? If not, does the router respond to pings from the PC?
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May 2, 2012 20:24
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NeuroticErotica posted:I've been having a weird problem - at my house we switched to Time Warner and were given a cgd24g cable modem with wi-fi built in. On a PC it works fine, but the Macs, and to a lesser extent my roku, have been having problems resolving pages and have drop outs where it just won't work at all. Speed tests show it being fine, but there's sometimes problems getting to those pages. I logged into the modem and everything looks fine, but obviously something's up. All 3 Macs have had this problem. The router built in to your modem sucks. You're probably going to need to buy a stand-alone router and find a way to off the routing capabilities of your modem. You might also be able to get them to swap out your modem for a new unit, but there's a decent chance that still won't work.
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May 25, 2012 04:54
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icantfindaname posted:I posted about my router restarting on its own earlier, and it's still going. It probably restarts once every hour or so. Is this a stupid question or something? I have no idea why it's doing this. I've had it for months with no problems and 2 weeks ago it decides to poo poo itself. The only major change is that I started playing a lot of Runescape. That's it. It's a Linksys E4200. The network mode is set to mixed wireless n and g because my ipad doesn't seem to like extended wireless n signal from a network repeater. Any ideas? It may be an overheating issue. Next time your router resets, touch it and see if it seems hot. I think there are some easy to find guides about drilling holes and other methods to prevent Linksys routers from overheating. If that's not the issue, then your router may be fried. You can try installing 3rd party firmware (e.g. Tomato USB), but I'm not sure if your router is supported.
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Jun 22, 2012 16:00
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MMD3 posted:anddddd.... right after posting this my connection dropped out and then reestablished a few minutes later so definitely seems like there is a conflict going on. Change the settings on your G router to assign 192.168.1.2 to the MAC address of your new router. Hopefully that helps out a little.
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Jun 27, 2012 16:57
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MMD3 posted:how do I determine the MAC address if it doesn't show up under attached devices? (probably a dumb question) You have a few different options, but I think your should be able to find it printed somewhere on the router or the box it came in. If this fails, you can unplug it from the other router and then reset it. Then you should be able to connect to it directly (it should either be at 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.1.2). E: Since DHCP is off you may have to set a manual IP address on the connecting device (something like 192.168.1.3 should work)
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Jun 27, 2012 17:44
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MMD3 posted:Thanks, I'll give this a shot when I get home, hadn't thought about disconnecting it from the DHCP router and resetting it. Automatic assignment is fine unless you need specific devices on specific addresses for some reason. For example sometimes when file sharing gets messed up you can't connect using a device name, but it works fine using the IP address. This works better if the machine always has the same IP address and you don't need to look it up.
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Jun 27, 2012 18:05
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Italy's Chicken posted:How can I find a router that does 2.4hgz N? It seems every router now does mix-mode, but that usually means G in 2.4 and N in 5. I'm trying to get higher speed through a concrete rebar wall. All of the dual-band routers, unless I'm mistaken, do N on 2.4 GHz. Which is to say you can set them to N-only, although their default is a mixed-mode which includes G and N (where N devices suffer some performance impact).
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Jul 1, 2012 15:57
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Frozen-Solid posted:Only thing in the event log is that Microsoft "does this connection have internet access" check. What do the DHCP timeout settings on your router look like?
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Jul 19, 2012 04:20
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Revitalized posted:I believe it is a D-Link DGL-4300 (Gamer Lounge series). Firmware 1.7 I think you should talk to your phone company's tech support about this and see if they have any advice.
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Aug 5, 2012 16:43
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PK-Fire posted:I'm running out of ideas for what to with my wireless situation, any help would be appreciated. I would definitely try to see if Apple will swap out your unit, since the refurbs come with a one-year warranty. That being said, I'm not sure how much this will help your situation as the 5 GHz band tends to have worse range than 2.4 GHz. You might as well try flashing your WRT54G with DD-WRT and seeing what you can do. You can also try to set it up as a wireless repeater (don't expect great speeds from this though).
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Aug 6, 2012 00:34
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Devian666 posted:In the smallnetbuilder review the R6300 only achieved 10-11 MB/s throughput which is nowhere near capping out USB 2.0. WAN to LAN speeds are another thing. It can cope with 800 Mbit/s throughput which is as good as any domestic fibre router can achieve. I would be very wary of the smallnetbuilder reviews' throughput numbers, since they don't seem to be methodologically sound. This is actually true with hardware reviews in general, since they tend to test a single unit! Especially with routers, there seems to be a fair bit of variance between units. Further, the hardware doing the tested might work better or worse with different routers. I would be pretty surprised if they tested 10 different units and got the same throughput results for each one.
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Sep 20, 2012 14:28
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