|
Incessant Excess posted:Thank you for your response, from which I take it that you are satisfied with the performance of your setup. Just to be absolutely sure I'm understanding correctly what hardware I would need, the following setup would work? Late to the party but Yes, this DOES work. You can use the ethernet port on the nanoHD to connect a wired device while using the nanoHD in a wireless uplink configuration. It's recommended you use a switch between your PC and the AP though since every time you restart your PC, the AP will disconnect from the wireless uplink as it prioritizes the wired connection, killing your internet connection to any wireless device connected to that AP.
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2020 00:01
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 21:30 |
|
|
KingKapalone posted:If I want to setup a ubiquiti network, could I just buy the stuff in this video and follow it? Any substitutions or stuff to disregard? I 100% recommend against getting a USG at this point in time and a cloud key is a waste of money for a home network. The nanohd is fine. the switch is a little pricey but works if you want to be on the Unifi platform and need 4 poe ports. Also, two of those ports are going to be used up on the switch, one for the connection to the USG and one poe for the cloud key, so if you have 8 devices, you'll need a second switch. Cyks fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Sep 18, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2020 18:08
|
|
|
KingKapalone posted:Have a different bundle of products to recommend for the setup then? devmd01 posted:You don’t necessarily have to buy a POE switch if all you have are two APs. If you buy the UAP-AC-Pro individually, they come with POE injectors. Pretty much this. Edgerouter X, USW-Flex-Mini and a single AC-Pro at $240 leaves you with 7 useable switch ports for other devices Add an extra flex mini if you need additional ports (at $30 they are pretty good).
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2020 20:36
|
|
|
MonkeyFit posted:My friend just bought a house that has ethernet and cable jacks in every single room. All of these are routed to a central closet in the middle of the house. Each wall plate has a green ethernet jack and an orange one, and there's a bundle of green ethernet cords coming into the closet and a bundle of orange cords. Also a bundle of coax cables going to each coax jack in each room. I wouldn't necessarily trust the the wall plate and check the cabling to verify. Wonder if they intended for one color to be for networking and one for analog lines? And I would get a 24 port patch panel from monoprice and either group them by room or use the first 12 for one color and last 12 for the other color. Or go with a keystone version if they really want to use those coax cables. Cyks fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Oct 19, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2020 16:28
|
|
|
AlternateAccount posted:Sounded like you couldn't put the storage off to your own NAS or elsewhere, had to be to an actual UI device of some kind. Correct. the UDM Pro($380) and UCK-G2-PLUS ($200) are the two UI devices that support Unifi Protect. ...Looks like there's also the UNVR ($300) that just came out of early access. Cyks fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Oct 19, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2020 19:02
|
|
|
Depends on what you mean by "dropping". If your device is showing no longer connected to your AP, it wouldn't be an ISP issue for example. You can rule out it being an issue somewhere else in the connection chain by seeing if a PC connected at the same point is getting speeds around your expected wired speeds during low utilization but it's probably just spotty wireless. If you have a wired backhaul already running in your house I would recommend just getting APs and distributing them around the house.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2020 16:57
|
|
|
eggyolk posted:What's currently the best recommendation for a Wifi router? Asking for tech clueless parents, and because the OP hasn't been updated since 2018. Just based off *tech clueless older adults" and assuming they own a house or at least a dwelling that would benefit from more than one AP, go with one of the mesh kits like the eero or Google nest. Probably whatever is available on sale from a local shop that they can return it if needed with little hassle. They look stylish, simple to setup, provide good coverage and speed for your average user and don't require you to get involved. Cyks fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Nov 10, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Nov 10, 2020 14:26
|
|
|
tuyop posted:I was thinking of just running a long cable either through the hallway or outside into their router, since the coverage between walls kind of sucks. Doesn’t seem like the guest network setting covers anything but WiFi. Ultimately what you want is having at least two VLANs and some type of access control that doesn't allow intravlan routing between the two but still allowing for connectivity out. Super easy to set up in any prosumer/enterprise equipment such as a Unifi network but a little trickier using all in one consumer devices. It's very possible that installing ddwrt on both of your devices (assuming theirs supports it) and running theirs in a wireless/switch only mode could work but to be honest I don't have much experience with the software. Alternately getting something like an edgerouter x connected to a small vlan aware switch in their space with the existing devices just used as APs would be pretty clean setup and cost like $80.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 11, 2020 23:53
|
|
|
Artelier posted:Hello, could I get some advice please? I posted in the Hardware Questions thread and was directed here: Mesh systems are just systems where a device provides wireless conectivity by connecting back to a central point over wireless itself. In the consumer market they'll often be called different things like a "puck" although technically they were access points. Some examples are like the ones talked about a few posts ago like the Eero or Google Nest. Both offer three packs that should work for you. Ideally you would want to have the central mesh device on the second floor with the two add-ons included in the pack on the first and third. The best part is they are super simple to setup and are usually done with an app on your phone in a few minutes. The downfall is these devices are usually limiting on the number of wired ports they have available so depending on what you want to connect and what speeds you need we may need to tailor the recommendation. If all you are doing is wireless laptops/phones/TVs than you would be good to go.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2020 12:04
|
|
|
Wax Dynasty posted:My wifi routers are old (they're ASUS RT-N66Us) and lack either wifi 5 or 6. Since we moved into a bigger house, they've struggled and I was thinking of replacing them. I have little networking knowledge, so I need something that holds my hand. Are wifi mesh systems like Eero or Nest a good option? What's the recommended brand? The orbi tri-band 2 pack is what I would consider the "best" for most household needs but at $300 it's hard to recommend compared to cheaper alternatives. As of the time of this post, best buy has the linksys velop tri-band three pack half off for $200, making it a pretty attractive purchase, although I think it's way over-priced normally. It doesn't have a dedicated backhaul like the Orbi, which allows you to daisy chain additional nodes off each other (unlike the orbi) but you do get a performance hit. It's suppose to use dynamic backhauling so it shouldn't be as big a hit as dual band mesh. The Nest wifi 2nd gen 2 pack is currently $220 on Amazon which isn't bad, but you are giving up one node and only dual band in return for 4x4 mu-mimo. Those are pretty complicated concepts as far as real world performance differences but the short version, I'd go with the Linksys at current prices. If the linksys sale ends, I'd consider the nest. There's options below $200 that may be perfectly fine depending on what what you'll be connecting, your internet speed and the size/layout of your house but these are pretty decent quick picks.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2020 00:15
|
|
|
I assume you meant green triangle instead of red at the end, and that's doable enough. First though let me ask; I assume this is new construction and the trees will be removed? How are you getting electricity ran to the new pod? There is wireless bridge attenas if you have a clear line of sight but you can also run cat6 100 meters before you start to run into issues. If you're running electricity from the house to a new construction I'd imagine running cabling at the same time would be your best bet.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2020 03:41
|
|
|
SpaceSDoorGunner posted:I'm currently using a Arris SB8200 modem and a Arris surfboard AC3200P router. The OP was last updated 2 and a half years ago and there's definitely better options by now but I just want to note that only getting 500 down on a speed test when you pay for 1gig on a wired connection is not normal and you should probably work to resolve that first. Do a speed test with your PC connected directly to the modem bypassing the router and see what you get.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 18, 2020 20:21
|
|
|
It's also a $20 router and should just go immediately into the trash. The SB6190 is also known to have issues due to the puma 6 chipset and should be avoided.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 18, 2020 23:44
|
|
|
the numa numa song posted:
For sure. It's still in the OP as the best modem to get even, another reason it's seriously in need of being updated and I've thought about submitting a replacement to a mod but I'm not really the most qualified when it comes to home networks. That's not to say the modem is the problem and a bunch of people use it with no issues but it is a red flag.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 20, 2020 14:31
|
|
|
Clayton Bigsby posted:Issues Typically you don't want to run two DHCP servers on a network like that but I don't think adding additional devices is going to be the solution to your problem; determining what's causing the memory/utilization issues is. I'd start with making sure the cabling for the cameras checks out and also if you are hard wiring them and they have wireless capabilities, make sure wireless is turned off. I've heard of devices causing loops and taking down networks that way before (looking at you, sonos).
|
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2021 17:20
|
|
|
codo27 posted:Can someone recommend a psu that will provide enough power to an edgerouter x that I can power an AP through it? Manual says it probably wont be enough with the bundled adapter. I'm looking at an Unifi 6 lite. Website says the 6 lite requires 802.3af or passive 48v. Edgerouter X is 24v on pass thru. You can go with edgerouter X + non-6 lite and use the included power injector with the ap to power both. Cyks fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jan 28, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2021 21:52
|
|
|
codo27 posted:Triple the price to jump up to the edgerouter POE, so I guess I'll just use an injector You can get a cheapo poe switch from netgear for a lot less or one of the unifi poe switches, but yes. Also the unifi poe injector for the 6-lite is the U-POE-AF, which is OOS everywhere. You can get a different name brand on Amazon for around $20. So a total of $30 more (and using two power plugs) if you want the 6 over the non. Regarding patch panels: You can get a cat 6 punch down patch panel for pretty drat cheap and attaching it to a wood panel like that is trivially easy. No need to make it an elaborate design or unnecessary costs. Unless you are watching cable, who cares if you have coax cables included. Something like https://www.amazon.ca/Mofangtech-Fo...=2u+wall&sr=8-3 + https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-107...tch+pane&sr=8-7 Cyks fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Jan 29, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2021 14:07
|
|
|
MarcusSA posted:Ok this is kinda a lame question but I really need a better wifi router vs what the cable company provides. Like its ok but its coverage is kinda poo poo. My place isn't that big but it does have pretty thick walls which is causing problems. You can and it's a fine device, but keep in mind you are spending extra for features you are going to turn off. About $100 more than a stand alone AP and switch that do the same thing you are wanting that device to do. However if this isn't a permanent residence, having a device that can do the extra features in the future may not be a bag idea. Not wanting mesh is fine as long as you understand mesh in home networking just means wireless backhaul and you are going to run a physical cable from your existing router to this device.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 6, 2021 23:07
|
|
|
MarcusSA posted:Ok fair enough. Is there something I can get that would dramatically increase my wifi strength then? If you can run an ethernet cable, an access point (Unifi APs are loved by the prosumer crowd, such as the UAP-AC-LITE , but you can also turn a off-the-shelf router into an AP). Dedicated APs are almost always intended to be ceiling mounted though. If you cant run a cable, consider a MoCA adapter if you have coax cables ran that terminate to a central location, along with an AP. There's also powerline adapter to an AP, although I don't know how advised that really is. I've seen powerline work fine for general computer usage on a single device, but probably not for running an AP off. Or a mesh set up, but if you are having issues connecting wirelessly a room over, not sure how much better off a mesh system will do.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2021 04:50
|
|
|
codo27 posted:Ordered the unifi 6 lite & edgerouter X today. Goodbye little Archer c7. Interested to see what coverage is going to be like. Heads up: the 24v passthrough on the edgerouter X won't work with the unifi 6 lite. You'll need a separate poe switch or injector.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 13, 2021 03:50
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Speaking of Ubiquiti access points, just saw this video today: In the comments he says he set the wifi 6 APs to 80mhz channel widths and left the others to 40...I normally like his channel but that's just stupid.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2021 14:56
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Yeesh. I doubt it would make enough of a difference to make the UAP-AC-PRO not be behind the Unifi6 but that's just sloppy. Hard to say. The unifi6 has a maximum data rate of 1201Mbps using two spatial streams when using 1024-QAM and the Pro 1300Mbps using three at 256-QAM. But he intentionally crippled it to 600, and I don't recall any details about the testing equipment or testing at different ranges. I do agree that the U6-Lite is the better recommendation for your average home user considering cost and performance but it's a bad video.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2021 17:42
|
|
|
chippy posted:I've just got a BT Business Smart Hub off eBay as an upgrade for my Plusnet router, which I had various problems with. The BT router seemed to be a common solution on the Plusnet forums. The IP shouldn't change when roaming as long as both bands are on the same VLAN, but from what I can google the BT Business Smart Hub doesn't allow you to create multiple vlans. By default, Chromecasts and Sonos systems are required to be on the same network as your phone/controller. And yes, AP Isolation doesn't sound like the issue here. I'd still verify the IP thing by connecting our phone to 5ghz and then 2.4ghz and seeing if it has different IP addresses. Also, under your wireless settings, do you have it set to Separate Bands On and manually configured the network name and security types to be the same? You'll want Separate Bands Off.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 26, 2021 03:13
|
|
|
Not any built in method that I know of. But if I'm understanding you in that they are two completely different networks, you can stop that by turning off automatically connect on the other network /forgetting it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 1, 2021 04:23
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Same SSID different bssid (mac) is going to roam. Maybe there is a minimum rssi you can set somewhere? Good point; I was assuming some type of authentication was being used on the correct network since it sounds like they are different networks. I'm pretty positive you won't roam if authentication type doesn't match and the chances of both having the same password is very slim if they are different networks.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 1, 2021 13:08
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7FeYsJqotc&t=223s is the guide I watched and he goes over exactly what is needed during the basic setup at 3 minutes in. Alternatively you can go in the config tree/interfaces / switch / switch0 / switch-port / interface : Interfaces on switch, but I'd just run the basic setup at this point.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 2, 2021 00:41
|
|
|
codo27 posted:Opened up my Surface Laptop 3 and connected to the new AP, only doing 400mbps, and its 802.11ac? Turns out that was a driver setting for some reason so I switched to ax...117mbps. Shortly switched to 574 but I find that a bit low seeing I'm about 4 feet removed from being directly under the drat thing. I know I know, nitpicking and I only have 300mbps anyway but oh well. 400Mbps on AC and 573.5Mbps on AX are right for a 40MHz channel width and two spatial streams. The 1201 data rate advertised by Ubiquti is 80MHz.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 2, 2021 04:07
|
|
|
I think the UDM is a fine performing device and it has a lot of what would otherwise be even more expensive unifi pieces crammed into it but as an all in one device it's too expensive for my recommendation. Not even you can get a similarly specced AIO for under $200 or a pretty good mesh at that price. Even a edgerouter x + ac lite would be fine for that upstream speed and floor space. Maybe if it was $230 or if it was sold as a mesh system would I go with it but they would need to make a cheaper flex HD before that ever happens.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 5, 2021 22:45
|
|
|
What's the model number of the TV.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2021 19:19
|
|
|
I'd check to see if wpa2+3 mix mode is enabled on the router, or set the router to wpa2 if currently set to wpa3.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2021 19:33
|
|
|
My only other suggestion would be to go under wireless settings and disable "802.11 ax / wifi 6 mode" and see if it'll connect. Asus also recommends turning off agile multiband, target wake time, smart connect and protected management frames for iot compatibility to see if one of those features are causing issues. Looks like you can disable per band so you can try it on just 2.4ghz.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2021 20:29
|
|
|
Pointless argument aside, the edgerouter x does 24v PoE pass through on the last port. It's turned off by default and do not enable it unless you're 100% sure whatever is plugged into it can handle it, but you can reduce the number of plugs needed by one with it to power an AP such as the ac lite. (If you want to talk proprietary let's talk cisco U(niversal)PoE.)
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2021 23:21
|
|
|
smax posted:Ain’t going to work, the U6 line of APs dropped 24V PoE support. More specifically the u6 lite requires 48v. You could use a US-8, but there's no reason not to buy the US-8-60W for $10 more. Keep that in mind before buying a U6 as it doesn't come with a power injector. You'll want the U-POE-AF model if you don't have a PoE switch. (The injector will have to go between the edgerouter and AP. If the goal is to just use one power outlet, use the wifi 5 lite, which is still a fine choice.) Cyks fucked around with this message at 13:20 on Mar 10, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Mar 10, 2021 13:12
|
|
|
You don't want any single run to be over 100 meters so yes, 1000ft is more than plenty, if not way more than you need you can save $90 by going with the 60w 8 port switch (or more if you don't go with Ubiquti) Edit -got you mixed up with another poster who was replacing a wifi4 router. Cyks fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Mar 11, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2021 21:59
|
|
|
Looking over the Unifi radiation patterns because that's what I do at midnight and the patterns listed for the u6-lite is actually the nanoHD and the u6-LR is the UAP-SHD (a $550 AP). Whoops. At least the u6-pro looks to be correct.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2021 05:51
|
|
|
Artelier posted:Quick question about setting up mesh networks at home: Can I "add on" mesh wifi satellites or do I need to purchase the whole set one shot? Yes with a few rare exceptions like the Orbi RBK50 which uses a dedicated backhaul bandwidth that only works with two nodes. They do have some recommended limitations though. Most home mesh system recommend no more than 2 hops away from the base unit and enterprise devices like Cisco say no more than 3. They also have max nodes per system. Linksys recommends a Max of 10 in a purely wifi backhaul network but caps at 32 nodes for the controller. Cyks fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Mar 14, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2021 14:31
|
|
|
rufius posted:I think you may be thinking of another Orbi kit. I run the RBK50 with 3 nodes and have had as many as 5 setup. Nope, looks like I was just going off bad information and confusion on my part based off an old review. It looks like daisy chaining was introduced recently to the system according to https://blog.netgear.com/blog/daisy-chain/ but multiple nodes support has been around longer. Good to know.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2021 18:34
|
|
|
Toalpaz posted:Folks, I have an network mystery that I'm sure only random people on the forums can help me out with. In the future you can go to the status of your network adapter and it'll tell you the data rate. It's a quick way to tell what speed a single device is negotiating at with the switch, or for WiFi you can determine a lot about the capabilities from comparing it with the chart at mcsindex.com.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 16, 2021 01:59
|
|
|
ShortyMR.CAT posted:Im not currently home but ill edit that numbers in when i get a chance. Based off what you have now it sounds like you have the preferred 150 package (150 down/10 up). From what you've said so far I'd probably just recommend going with a SB6183 modem and maybe something like the Deco m5 mesh system. It'll run around $230 total.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 18, 2021 19:46
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 21:30 |
|
|
blindjoe posted:I had an Ubiquiti AP, but they don't seem to support the newer faster standards so Im not very interested in them. Ubiquti has two 802.11ax APs... highme posted:I was looking at a pair of Asus AX6100 so I could use the 5ghz backhaul channel to connect the 2 routers and then connect everything in my offices via Cat6, but unsure if that's overkill. I can swing $350 or so, but would rather keep it below $250 total. I feel like there's probably better options that I'm missing. For a 1-story 1110 sqft you're probably good with a single centralized all-in-one. If you do want to go the backhaul mesh route, the RBK50 is $240 at Walmart. It isn't WiFi6 but it sounds like very few if any those devices are anyways. They also have a 4 port switch built in so you can still cable the devices in your office. If you want to run cabling you can run a cable to a small switch like the USW-Flex-Mini in the office and connect everything to that. Cyks fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Mar 19, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2021 22:42
|
|