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chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Do ubiquiti access points have the ability to power through thick walls and such? My girlfriend's house is mega old, and has walls that are super thick and have God knows what inbetween them. It absolutely kills the little d-link router they have. They probably wouldn't let me start drilling holes and running cables around their house either, plus they have a bunch of tablets and iPad and phones and poo poo where it's wifi only anyway.

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chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Inspector_666 posted:

Odds are the walls are plaster and lathe, which means every room is a faraday cage. You're probably SOL there.

PoE/MoCa with APs all over the place is your best bet.

I think you're right on the walls, I seem to remember them saying some of the walls are plaster. Truth be told, the dinky little d-link they're using works ok for the most part, but has a habit of dropping connections in certain rooms in the house. Was just wondering if a ubiquiti would have more oomph so to speak on output power.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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skipdogg posted:

Transmit power can be as high as you like, but remember the client has to get a signal back. Doesn't matter how much signal you can receive, if your responses never get heard.

Didn't think of that. gently caress. Thanks.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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MrOnBicycle posted:

I take it that power line LAN is going to suck in a 1920's apartment? We are in all likelihood moving into an apartment from that era, and the fiber socket is right at the entrance, and minimizing ugly cabling would be awesome.

Eh, I'd order some from amazon to try out. If they suck, return em.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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foutre posted:

Sorry in advance if this is too basic a question, but I was wondering what the difference really is between 50 mbps down/10 up versus 25 down/4 up. The specific provider is RCN, and from poking around on the internet it looks like the actual speeds would come out to be more like 40 down/6 up and 20 down/3 up.

I kind of get how that translates to, i.e., the speed a game or movie would download, but I'm not sure what it means for other stuff, like streaming video/online gaming etc.

Basically all we need is a fast enough connection for 2 people to play games/stream movies/do internet stuff at the same time. It would be nice if I could also stream Hearthstone or some nonsense on Twitch, but that's less important.

On a related note, depending of course on which speed we get, are specific criteria that we should look for in routers, or ones that are particularly suited for different speeds?

Thanks in advance for the advice! I really wish I'd written this stuff down from previous places that I've lived, it seems like such a basic thing to have zero point of reference for.

Honestly the 25 down/4up one is enough for that. You can always bump it up if you find out it's not also.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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I'm pre-ordering one of those Google OnHub wireless routers for my girlfriend's house. I've talked about it in here before, but basically it's an older house and some of the walls on the first floor are plaster, so her existing dinky little d-link wireless router just gets murdered. Here's hoping the OnHub can blast through the walls a little more.

I'll post the results in here when I get it all hooked up.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Inspector_666 posted:

Apparently the OnHub is just a TP-Link in a different case/with different firmware. So if you want to save some cash/get it now, you can order an Archer C7.

Tplink makes it, but I was under the impression that it has much more more powerful antenna (and more of them) along with the more directional 2.4 ghz stuff.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Zotix posted:

So I'm trying to get an open Nat on my ps4 and I don't seem to be having much luck. I'm using a linksys e1000 and its stuck on type 2 Nat. I'd like to get to type 1. Port forwarding hasn't helped nor has the DMZ option. I also feel like my current router is likely going to poo poo the bed soon. If I was to get a new router for a small home which is the best option ? It's likely only max going to have 5-6 devices at once, more likely 2-3. I've seen people recommend that Asus 66u.

Pretty sure type 2 is the best you can do on PS4 without having it go straight to the modem itself. It doesn't affect anything. type 3 is the one you want to look out for.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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I'm planning on redoing the wifi in my girlfriends parents house. My plan is to basically buy a Ubiquiti Edgerouter X, and two of their Unifi AP points. Any hardware I'm missing? I know the AP's come with PoE adapters so that's covered.

I feel like I'm missing something hardware wise....

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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sellouts posted:

If you know your poo poo or can use a very basic wizard this edgerouter x is great for 50. Need a wifi AP though which I think are back ordered.

Where are you seeing the edgerouter x for 50? Everywhere I've looked they've been around 65-70. I'm looking to pick one up today actually...

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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the nicker posted:

I know the factory firmware is faster, I'm asking specifically about dd-wrt. Unless there's a router out there that will do openVPN and policy NAT with its factory firmware.

e: even a wired-only router would work, i can use a separate AP.

ee: wow, these look pretty loving cool, and cheap: https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-x/ anyone used one?

I ordered an edgerouter X, should be here by next weekend. I also ordered two regular ubiquiti unify UAP's so I'll update the thread with my experiences when I'm done setting them up.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Yeah, the Unifi AP's come with PoE injectors already. No need to get a PoE capable switch.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Jago posted:

What's the deal with the edgerouter? It has the POE input and a POE output. Doesn't seem practical for most home uses. Seems like you would just used the attached DC adapters for both your AP and the router. What is the practical use of a router with just one POE output?

Seems like it would actually be perfect for a home that just needs one PoE capable security camera or AP?

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Vinlaen posted:

Thanks. I think since I'm going to invest a decent amount of money and for the price difference, I might go for PoE to future-proof myself.

Also, the more I read it seems like the Ubiquity UniFi switches require a controller (software?) running, so I think I'd rather the web-interface configuration of the EdgeSwitch. However, I've also read about the upcoming UAP-AC-PRO that also requires the controller? I'm still interested in opinions on the Cisco versus these switches though...

I know for the AP's, the controller software does NOT need to be running for the vast majority of configurations to work. You do need to leave the controller software running for a few things, though. One example is if you have a guest network that has a captive portal page, you need to have some sort of box running the controller software to handle the landing page.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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ControlledBurn posted:

If he's running multiple access points it's necessary for Zero-Handoff which is a nice feature, but not entirely necessary.

I thought you didn't need the controller software running for zero-handoff?

This forum post says you don't need the controller software running, just that your AP's need to be on the same layer2 network:

https://community.ubnt.com/t5/UniFi-Wireless/Zero-Handoff-Requirements/m-p/665201#M53005

chocolateTHUNDER fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Nov 17, 2015

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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So I just got done setting up an edgerouterX, and two unifi APs in my girlfriend's house. It was so easy, seriously anyone can do it. It improved things tremendously.

E: seriously the only gotcha moment I ran into was that I had to turn off ipv6 while I tried to access the edgerouter for the first time. That's it.

chocolateTHUNDER fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Nov 21, 2015

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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What's the deal with the unifi controller software? I installed it on a laptop for the initial configuration yesterday, and it went fine. I then tried to install it on a desktop today since I didn't have the laptop with me, but it seems like it just wants to run through the setup again? Desktop is on the same layer 2 as the unifis.

E: Nvm, I googled it when I got home. Turns out the controller/AP setup is tied to one PC, and I would have to reset the access points and set them up with the controller on another PC.

chocolateTHUNDER fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Nov 23, 2015

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Papercut posted:

Okay I'm a dummy. Got it working. Realized eth2-eth4 were on a different subnet than eth0, so had to connect my PC to a different port. Then my AP became discoverable. Adoption failed at first but it seemed like assigning the AP a static AP fixed that.

For future reference, the EdgerouterX has a wizard that'll just put everything on the same subnet making it act like a normal consumer router.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Papercut posted:

Which wizard is that? The one labeled "Load balancing"? I used the WAN+2LAN one which obviously I should've realized doesn't do that.

WAN+2LAN2 I believe. Right below the one you probably chose :v:

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Binary Badger posted:

Geez, the EdgeRouterX (current thread fave) is $75 on Amazon. Sold out at NewEgg. B&H wants $79 for it! Pretty big markup from SRP $49.99...

Yeah, this seems to be the norm with it for some reason. I paid ~65 for it from Amazon about a month ago.

I heard those new Unifi AC-Lite AP's are in a similar situation.


E: Gotta say though I set up an ER-X and Unifi AP (just the standard 2.4) at my gf's parents house for them and it's been rock-solid.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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22 Eargesplitten posted:

OK. I don't think we'll need one, and the current one(s) are in the walls to split between units.

Actually, how does that work? If there are two Comcast accounts at the same location, will they share the highest speed connection, or can they distinguish between two accounts?

I would imagine Comcast would provision the speeds on their end based on some unique identifier in each of the modems.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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KKKLIP ART posted:

If I tell my router to use 8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4 as its DNS server, will my connected devices be smart enough to defer to that as opposed to my ISPs DNS stuff?


Actuarial Fables posted:

It depends on your DHCP settings.

If your router is telling client devices to use the ISP's DNS server(s), the client will make DNS requests to the ISP's server(s) - regardless of what DNS server your router uses.

If your router is telling client devices to use 8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4 as the DNS servers, the client will make DNS requests to those servers - again, regardless of what DNS server your router uses.

If your router is telling client devices to use itself as the DNS server, the client will make DNS requests to the router, then the router will relay the requests to the server(s) you've configured it to use (8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4). (Assuming your router has the ability to act as a DNS relay)

KKKLIP ART posted:

I've got an Archer C7, so it just has a checkbox that says "Use these DNS servers" and the tooltips just say that if left blank, it will try to pull them from the ISP, so I'm not sure if it relying on the client's settings or if it is over-riding that.

E: looks like my macbook has 192.168.0.1 as its DNS server for my home wifi, so my assumption is that at the very least it is using the router's settings

This also depends on the devices. A chromecast, for example, will always ignore whatever DNS settings you have on your router and try to use Google's DNS instead unless you block Google's DNS at the router level.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Residency Evil posted:

I just got FIOS installed and bought Verizon's G1100 router since I need the MoCA for TV.

1. Are there any crippling problems with this router? Years ago verizon was using actiontec routers that were terrible.
2. I'm in a 1500 sqft space and just want reliable wifi for streaming and general internet purposes. Is Ubiquiti worth the hassle of buying two more boxes to trip over instead of one router?
3. If I go with a router, is the TP-Link Archer the one to go with? Wirecutter seems to be recommending the D-Link DIR-880L.

I have the G1100 and it's rock solid. Surprisingly customizable as well for a router/modem provided by the ISP. Honestly I don't really have a bad thing to say about it.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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H110Hawk posted:

The Google Puck will give you the best experience. It means that you can roam in your backyard, etc. Stick with the garbage you have. Does this integrate with your current setup - not become its own unique setup?

The Onhub routers can integrate directly with the google wifi pucks. Should be fine. They run the exact same software.

https://support.google.com/wifi/answer/7168220?hl=en

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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dexter6 posted:

Moving to a house (~1300 sqft with a basement) from a studio apartment shortly and will likely need to get better wifi access.

What is the thread’s current recommendation for the following:

Scenario 1: I might have Ethernet runs to every room in the house. I’m not quite sure, but could theoretically connect a few APs that way or, if not

Scenario 2: I would want a basic mesh network. I’ve used Apple Time Capsules and Google Wi-Fi’s in the past but I think Apple stuff is pretty long in the tooth and would prefer to stay out of the Google ecosystem if possible.

Thanks so much!

dexter6 posted:

Oh for sure!

So what’s the recommended hardware for each scenario?

When I bought my house, my plan was to run ethernet to every room in the house. I work in IT, how could I live with myself if I didn't?

I ran one line for my wireless access point. It was such a pain in the rear end, that I basically said gently caress it, wifi is good enough for most things. Just to see, I asked the vendor we use at work if he would run cable in my house. He told me he'd do it just for me, but he always turns that residential runs because they're such a pain.

Anyway, have fun! I've resorted to using powerline ethernet adapters for my desktop and consoles. Bleh.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Eletriarnation posted:

Weird. I got my house (~1300sqft, 1 floor) wired with Cat6 in 2017 by a company that seemed to specialize in residential and light-commercial audio and data wiring. Cost me right at $900 (2/3 labor and 1/3 materials) and took only half a day to do 5 pairs from a central closet to 5 different locations around the house. Do you have a large house or were you planning a lot of runs?

2100sqft 2 story Cape style. Keep in mind, I asked the vendor my previous job used and he strictly does business - not residential. I can definitely see why after my experience. My businesses around here have crappy drop ceilings making pulling cable extremely easy, and if it's a new business or new tenant remodeling he'll get in there when the walls are open anyway.

I'll probably take another shot at it soonish, or I'll find someone to do it for me...

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Shaocaholica posted:

So my wife recently took on a job managing a small commercial real estate company with ~5ppl in a small office (additional 5ppl who work remote). They were totally unmanaged from an IT perspective. Now she wants to find a vendor who can do some minimal IT management and the guy she found is trying to sell them on a firewall (Sonicwall). I'm no enterprise networking expert but I feel like this guy is just trying to set himself up for more support work. I guess you'd need something like that if you wanted to roll your own private company VPN?

For a small company with no on site IT, I feel like a firewall appliance that has to sit between hosts and the internet is an additional point of failure that could become downtime that can't be quickly addressed.

Well, they're probably already using a firewall from their ISP. If I was brought in as an MSP to manage the IT of a small company, I would want my own firewall in there instead. Seems totally normal.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Yeah, this is all totally normal if you contract out an MSP to handle your IT. You want to standardize the equipment you support as much as possible, for obvious reasons.

Shaocaholica posted:

The other 'intangible' part of the scope is basically that none of the employees are tech savvy to support themselves for even the most minor issues. And while I could do it I just don't have the flexibility to be always on call.

Also how do these no-wifi entry level firewall appliances work with wifi? Do you just plug in a consumer wifi router into them and put the wifi-router into AP mode? That way the firewall just does all the management?

ISP Modem/ONT > Firewall > Switch > WAP

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Yeah, I'm not even sure why BGP is being talked about in this scenario.

Really the most concerning thing about this whole thing, is that they want to use a Sonicwall (lol).

I do have a personal hatred for SonicWALL after taking over 40+ of them and administering them for 5 years. The day the project got approved to rip them out and replace them with another solution was a good day.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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namlosh posted:

Thanks for the good answers and info guys and dolls, but I must have misspoke: I didn’t mean to ever suggest BGP was the solution to OPs problem nor do I really care about BGP in a home setting.

The original question I had was:
How can you set up a home network such that your router isn’t a single point of failure. From BSDs comments it seemed like it was possible, so i was intrigued to lean more

You can get a pair of routers that support High Availability. When one goes down/stops responding, the other takes over. Goes without saying that only business class routers support this. Maybe something like pfsense does also? Haven't really looked into it.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Head Bee Guy posted:

Anyone have any luck on getting verizon to install fios in your building? It’s been available on the block for years, but they haven’t hooked up my apartment building despite semi annual online request forms. Optimum sucks such incredible poo poo

What's up fellow long islander (or I guess could also be north jersey).


If it's an apartment building, that would require cooperation between the landlord and Verizon before it even got down to you. I used to work as a sysadmin in a multifamily apartment company (if I told you the name, you might recognize them), and actually had a hand in these hookups for new apartment buildings and complexes that went up. It required a ton of cooperation between the landlord company and ISP. For a situation like this, it's driven by the property owner and not the individual tenant.

If you have a "community manager" or someone like that, I would go ask them about it. Chances are they won't do anything, but if you have a good one they'll at least relay the information up the chain.

chocolateTHUNDER fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Jul 19, 2023

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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My last job used Sophos XGS firewalls, which I believe did not require a fancy license to use their central management. I quite liked them, although of course everyone online rushes to point out about how much better the older Sophos Firewalls were.

Me and a coworker once banged out 40 site to site tunnels between our main office firewall and our sister sites in under an hour during a project.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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calandryll posted:

It appears our ER-X is going to be biting the dust soon, been having quite a few routing issues that are fixed with a reboot. It's almost 9 years old so got a good run out of it. I have 2 Unifi APs but we're not wedded to the Ubiquiti line up. Nothing big in regards to networking but what would be a good upgrade or similar setup?

Grab a cheap device and slap pfsense on it. I've been using a pfsense router with a unifi AP for 3 years with no issues.

I also actually found pfsense easier to navigate and do things in vs the ER-X I used to have.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Just buy another ER-X.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Posting in here because I know Ubiquiti equipment is a very popular home network choice (I use their switches and APs in my house!)

Apparently they're having a pretty bad security incident right now:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Ubiquiti/comments/18hgpw1/security_problem/

Reports of people receiving push notifications showing random peoples cameras, people logging into the UI website and having access to other random accounts (including their network controllers!) etc.

Yikes

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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M_Gargantua posted:

I am ahead of the curve mitigating this one. That mitigation? Never use clouds!

I think it’s worse than that - it’s also UI store accounts.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Kibner posted:

Is there an affordable router that is an ASIC with POE and has the ability to do site-to-site VPN?

My partner’s mom is currently using some Google puck-looking router for a home with several dozen new and old devices and we want to upgrade it. The site-to-site VPN would be handy because they don’t have an always-on computer we could put tailscale or something on but we would like to remotely access without opening the router up to the wider internet.

It would be going inside a media and server closet so keeping the heat output low is beneficial (hence ASIC). They also have some POE APs already, so the POE would be helpful to remove the power cords and give greater mounting flexibility.

You could just get a Pi or something, throw tailscale on that, and expose their subnet to allow you to remote in if you want. Would be much cheaper.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Yes, I made the same mistake when I bought my house and ran Ethernet to my AP. I made it work, but there were a lot of curse words thrown at my crimper and ends.

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Yeah, once I went passthrough I never went back. Absolutely no reason to use anything else, unless you're in a situation where you're stuck with the tools you got around you at the time.

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chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

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Some pieces of equipment allow you to blend 2.4/5 into a single SSID, but also turn off 2.4 or 5Ghz if needed. Useful for those lovely little IoT devices that only do 2.4 and sometimes don’t want to pair with your blended network.

Shut off 5Ghz band, pair the device, turn 5Ghz back on.

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