The Home Networking Megathread - Yes the OP is out of date

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 10, 2011 04:41

Doctor Party posted:

I am asking out of ignorance not because I mean to argue, but why are 1,6 and 11 more immune to bleed over than the others?

I chose channel 2 simply because no one else was using that frequency. Now over a day into using this I have not had a single disconnect nor has my room mate.

My assumption was if I had to choose between channels with multiple other users and a channel with no users I would be better off with the channel with no users. If it were true that a nearby channel could bleed over, it would follow that someone on the exact channel would be even more troublesome. In my case several others were on 1, 6 and 11 already.

Anyway thanks for info, I am interested to know why this is important because I have no idea how this stuff works.

All the wireless gear uses more channels to send data. The image below is what I picked up locally at the back of my apartment. Channel 1 uses below 1 and up to channel 3, channel 6 is actually 4 to 8 and channel 11 is actually 9 to 13.

Then you have a jerk like me that uses channels 1 to 9 for my network.

So using channel 2 may work fine unless someone uses a fast wireless connection set to channel 1.

Adbot · # ¿ May 15, 2024 07:46

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 13, 2011 23:26

Isurion posted:

I'm looking at the Netgear WNR3500L and the OP says its not DD-WRT compatible but it says it is on the product pages and it shows up in the list of supported devices, is the OP out of date or something?

Also, the different naming is confusing me; these two routers are the same router right?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122334
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Range...21133040&sr=1-5

Or is there more than one variant of the WNR3500L?

Things are constantly changing. On the supported devices list there is a minimum compatible version now.
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Supported_Devices#Netgear

If someone can confirm that dd-wrt works I'll change the status in the op. Note that I favour the conservative approach for the op to prevent moaning.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 14, 2011 02:33

aperion posted:

I have an 8 year old modem, a Motorola Surfboard basically this thing:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16825122011

It doesn't have the wireless capabilities, but otherwise that's it. I know that for any piece of hardware, 8 years is a long time to be running constantly, but it hasn't given us any significant issues in all this time. Is it time to change it out for something newer?

I'm not sure what information would be necessary to help make a determination, but I'll provide whatever is needed.

It really depends on your requirements. If you don't feel any need to change there's no reason to change. Most of us have changed routers and/or modems due to having issues with our existing hardware.

However, if you want wireless coverage and gigabit network speeds between devices on your network then adding a router may be interest (but you would still keep the cable modem as you are not have issues with it).

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 14, 2011 22:13

aperion posted:

Actually, we replaced the router about three months ago with a higher-end device recommended in the OP of this thread, and it solved most all of our home network problems, which is why I started looking at the modem itself to see if there was any potential in replacing it, given it's my single oldest piece of hardware now.

I'm subscribed to Cox, and am currently paying for their top tier service that includes DOCSIS 3.0. Home internet usage is pretty high with two gaming computers, one office computer, an XBox on wireless, iPad, and 2-3 laptops running at any given time with heavy use of online gaming and video streaming.

You do have rather heavy usage and with your subscription you should get a significant increase in bandwidth by upgrading your cable modem. Going from DOCSIS 2.0 to 3.0 is potentially a large leap in performance.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 14, 2011 22:58

Ahz posted:

Unfortunately the real issue is that I would prefer to just have one wireless AP in the condo that works throughout. Not to mention that it doesn't work well at all in the middle two bedrooms between the master suite and living room.

If the building is anything like what I've seen in HK it's likely that the thick concrete walls have a lot of steel reinforcing (typical for buildings that high). You will struggle to get a good wireless signal.

You could try a better router, changing the antenna, or using directional antenna but I can't say if you'll get any improvement.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 15, 2011 11:00

Check the exterior to see how hot the router is running. Linksys routers tend to have poor cooling which can cause issues. You may want to consider physically modifying the router to add a fan.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 15, 2011 22:03

Thoom posted:

I looked at pfsense, but it claims I'd need incredibly expensive/powerful hardware (3.0GHz+ server class CPU) to do gigabit throughput, which seems a little odd since my current router is tiny, probably runs some embedded ARM or PPC CPU, and does a gigabit just fine other than the periodic crashes. Is pfsense just poorly optimized or feature bloated or something?

The embedded cpus in routers are all system on a chip designs which are specifically customised for the purpose. A general cpu has to do a lot more processing to do the same job.

If I recall correctly pfsense caps out at around 3 gigabit no matter what the hardware is, and then they recommend specialised commercial routers over that speed.

On a side note that highest performing domestic router listed in the op can achieve about 800 mbit/s WAN to LAN throughput which is below what you have requested.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 15, 2011 22:43

The_Franz posted:

Just a note about the smallnetbuilder.com figures: if you read their testing methods for LAN-WAN throughput they put the LAN system in the DMZ which means that their throughput tests don't reflect real world usage in a typical setup (no NAT, no firewall, etc...). In fact, I'd wager that some of those home gigabit routers that they have tested to "route" at near wire speed are just doing switching in that configuration.

That's pretty crap if that's the case. I'll have to look into this and add a note in the op.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 16, 2011 22:30

I believe the following hardocp thread describes the D-Link WBR-2310 appropriately.
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1167857

For business use spend money on a decent router as it's both a tax write off and you will lose money using lovely equipment.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 17, 2011 00:28

Triikan posted:

My cable company got rid of my speed class a while back, and has now decided that they're bumping legacy customers either up or down to the new tiers. I enjoyed my current speed, so after half an hour on the phone talking to everybody that would listen, I got them to bump my tier up without charging me the current rate, so I now have an additional 3mbps downlink that I don't really need. I'd like to set up a public wifi for my immediate surrounding neighbors, basically limited to that 3mbps (though I probably will QOS it instead of hard limits).

My only requirement is that I want to set up a start page that every new client is redirected to, like they do in most restaurants. I don't need logins or anything, but I do want to be able to create a page that has information (like, "Hey, slackers, this is free wifi provided by Joe Blow, don't mess things up!"), and anything else I want to throw up. Can DD-WRT do this? I'd prefer to have one dedicated router just for this, serving wifi and the webpage with no additional hardware.

I'd prefer this setup vs talking to my neighbors because a few houses around me are populated by students that come and go frequently, so new arrivals are very common.

EDIT: I'd also like to be able to do this on a WRT-54GL, because its not being used, and I have huge rear end antennas for it.

You should also put up some rules including stating that it is not to be used for illegal purposes, or it'll be cut off. There's a few court cases of people being prosecuted from unintentional public wifi being used for child porn. You should also put advertising on the splash page and something like another splash page every 30 minutes.

I know the above can be done but this is outside of my knowledge.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 17, 2011 10:58

There's a $25 router in the op that actually works and appears to be running Tomato. Just pay the extra $2.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 18, 2011 02:01

All Linksys routers (and my VoIP box) have issues with heat due to poor cooling design.

The netgear routers in the op work right out of the box. We've had good results with the 3500L and 3700 without having heat issues. You can try running dd-wrt on them if you want not that it'll change stability. They are listed as not supporting dd-wrt until I have confirmation.

The 3500L does 2.4 GHz wireless only and the 3700 is dual band.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 18, 2011 12:29

There is nothing wrong with the WNDR3400, in fact the specification was hot poo poo for many years. The reason it's not listed in the op is because it only goes up to 100 mbit/s wired. For most people this won't make a difference except gigabit is expected these days.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 18, 2011 22:47

Triikan posted:

DD-WRT is great because of the features not common in consumer based routers. On many devices it also makes them much more reliable. I'd say that the reliability of current routers on stock firmwares has come a great way since the mid 00s, so I wouldn't worry about not having DD-WRT unless you start wanting to do things not supported by your firmware.

In relation to the op the flash your routers applies to every router except the netgear routers and the monoprice one.

Agreed I have had a very similar experience with linksys routers but the problems only really started becoming noticeable when New Zealand started catching up with the rest of the world for broadband speeds. I hope your wireless solution works out for you. Don't forget to try inSSIder with a laptop to see what the signal strength is like if you have any issues (note a weak signal may still be high quality though).

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 18, 2011 22:52

pocket pool posted:

I'm still running a WRT54GL with Tomato installed right now, but I'm considering upgrading to something that can provide me with easy Print Server/USB HDD support. I don't have any issues with signal strength anywhere throughout our home, so that isn't really a concern.

I was looking at the ASUS RT-N16 mentioned in the OP. If I install DD-WRT or Tomato onto that router, will the print server/USB HDD support still function? Or do you need to use the official ASUS firmware for that?

Also, I don't see my printer model mentioned on the list of supported printers that ASUS links to on the product page for the RT-N16. Is it just a toss up if it'll work, then?

Even though I know it would probably be more reliable to build a cheap machine to use as a print/NAS server, I'm not sure that I really want to spend the money on one or find a spot for it in my office.

There appears to be USB support. The supported devices list for the N16 includes 2 x USB 2.0. Check this page to see what is needed to get USB running.
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/USB_storage#USB_storage

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 21, 2011 22:12

LACP may provide me with some options for changing my CFD modelling configuration. I've managed to push through memory bandwidth issues and the only problem I have is storage. Being able to write to network storage at faster than gigabit would be useful.

What would be the best resource to use to learn how to configure LACP effectively?

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 21, 2011 22:38

I would be looking to go many servers writing to a storage server. The ability for the servers to communicate at higher than gigabit would allow more flexibility in scaling.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 21, 2011 22:58

TECHNICAL Thug posted:

What are you running in that box that would saturate a gigabit link?

I run fire simulations which are CFD based. The models produce a large amount of output data in bursts which can hold up processing. When I scale up I could saturate two gigabit links.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 21, 2011 23:49

As far as I know there is no switching capability for Thunderbolt.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 23, 2011 04:39

Erdricks posted:

After reading this thread, I've come down to the WNDR 3700 and the WNDR 4000.

Think it's worth the extra $30 for the 4000? Anyone familiar with how the claims re: extra range and extra speed stack up in practice?

fake edit: Also thinking about the ASUS RT.

For best performance on a 3700 check that it's a 3700v2. I'm skeptical about any extra range but the 4000 has better wan to lan throughput and possibly better wireless speed (it does have a higher peak speed if you have anything that supports it).

I'm pretty happy with my 3700 but extra money where it may not make a difference to you typically isn't worth it.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 23, 2011 07:38

Looks like it might be a v1 but that only makes a 10% difference in performance from the v2. Not a big issue. Up to you if you want to spend the extra $30. If it doesn't make any difference to your finances just get the 4000.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 24, 2011 00:09

Shaocaholica posted:

Whats with all these new routers not having external antennas? Are aftermarket high gain antennas a thing of the past?

I get the impression that the FCC might be behind that. I wouldn't be surprised if they're trying to control people adding after market antennas to reduce interference.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 24, 2011 23:05

Those throughput figures are reasonably consistent with what is listed on smallnetbuilder, which is a positive result.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 25, 2011 19:25

WastedJoker posted:

oops didn't read the OP before posting!

ok, now I've read it I can frame my questions a lot easier.

I want a simple dual-band router which will allow my various devices (2x laptop, desktop pc, 2x smartphones, 2x games consoles) to connect to the net. I don't use file sharing of any sort but I do stream HD content from my desktop pc (wired to the router) wirelessly to my xbox/ps3.

My current router is a Netgear DG834GT. It's starting to run very hot after 4yrs service.

I'd prefer something that:

Can run custom firmware and be in the �50-�70 bracket.
Has a good web-based interface.

What can you guys recommend?

This seems like a fairly good value option?

http://www.tp-link.com/en/products/details/?model=TL-WR1043ND

The tp-link router is junk and worthless. If you want value look at the op again. There are a number of choices in a wide range of prices.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 26, 2011 22:40

Ashex posted:

I want a Dual-band wireless router with gigabit, is the Linksys E3000 my best option? I don't really care for the media server portion.

Your closest options in that price range are the E3000 and the Netgear 3700. I've had a good experience with the 3700.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 26, 2011 22:43

Triikan posted:

OMG, I don't want an extra ethernet cable and a single power cable making GBS threads up my house.

No one wants to spend money or time to have functioning internet these days. :v:

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 28, 2011 02:58

sbyers77 posted:

Dumb question that I've always wondered - How does router CPU/RAM actually relate to router performance?

Running out of ram is a major problem with a router. While streaming or running bit torrents my old combo modem/router would actually freeze and not recover the connection. Unlike a desktop computer there's no hard drive to have a swap file on so something has to break.

There are a number of tasks that depend on the cpu performance. If the router is checking for dubious packets (acting as a firewall) it will need to use the cpu to inspect the packets before sending them on. The cpu power tends to limit the WAN to LAN throughput. Wireless encryption and VPN encryption both need cpu power and appear to be mostly cpu limited activities on a router.

I'm not the biggest expert in relation to this but others might fill in a few more gaps.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 28, 2011 04:30

Shaocaholica posted:

Whats the deal with the DIR-655? Its got ~1800 reviews on newegg with a really high avg rating but it doesn't support any of the custom firmwares.

The closest I can figure is stockholme syndrome. That and six months later would they still give it the same rating?

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 28, 2011 05:27

Slider posted:

I'm thinking about buying this router:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124405

to replace my d-link ebr-2310. My d-link router is terrible, it pretty much cannot handle torrenting poo poo at all and locks up my connection. Would this one do that to? I think I read somewhere that said my d-link one can only handle 20 max connections before it craps out.

Anyways, for only $23 it seems like a pretty good deal to me. Any suggestions?

Seems reasonable to me. Just needs to be flashed once you get it.

Devian666 · # ¿ Nov 28, 2011 21:46

Shaocaholica posted:

Also, if I'm using a dual band router, how do I know if I'm connecting on 2.4ghz or 5ghz since they're both active right?

My two wireless networks have different names, which makes it easy to identify what you are connecting to.

Devian666 · # ¿ Dec 1, 2011 03:31

Slider posted:

I just got my e1000 v2.1, should I flash it to the dd-wrt thing or use the "official" firmware? I'm new to this.

You can run the official firmware but you'll likely run into issues. If you have issues flash the router as per the recommendation in the op.

All linksys gear has heat issues, and as per the op this is stated. Flashing the router may help with the heat problems, but adding a fan to the router will also help. Again, there is a link in the op for modding linksys routers.

tl;dr :techno:

Flash your routers. :techno:

Devian666 fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Dec 1, 2011

Devian666 · # ¿ Dec 1, 2011 04:14

Slider posted:

Thanks The updated firmware for the e1000 was on their forums and a little hard to find. It's here if any needs it.

Also, what WPA algorithm should I use for encryption?

WPA2 if all of your wireless devices support it.

Devian666 · # ¿ Dec 1, 2011 19:18

Shaocaholica posted:

Can I connect multiple machines to my router using 1 set of powerline adapters?

You could if you attach a switch. Though be aware they would be sharing the bandwidth over the powerline adapters.

Devian666 · # ¿ Dec 2, 2011 14:03

Raffles posted:

Are there any recommendations for an ADSL router/modem preferably for under £50?

There are no recommendations for combo adsl modem and router as they are all bad. The recommendation is to get a router, keep the modem but switch off any functions, such as wireless and firewall functions, which the router will handle.

Devian666 · # ¿ Dec 4, 2011 19:35

If your modem/router is that bad there's only one place it should be.

Devian666 · # ¿ Dec 5, 2011 00:27

An E2000 appears to be the easiest way to do this. It should give you the options you want along with the ability for it to be flashed.

Devian666 · # ¿ Dec 5, 2011 21:58

Sharrow. I don't see any issues with the proposed set up. If it works without problems that's all you really need.

Devian666 · # ¿ Dec 6, 2011 03:12

Seconding that airvideo is ideal for the task.

Devian666 · # ¿ Dec 6, 2011 09:22

Slider posted:

Just wanna thank the op and people in this thread - my e1000 works great. I can be downloading/uploading a ton of stuff all while playing BF3 and I don't lag at all. Pretty much for only spending $23 on it.

This is why routers are so awesome. Years ago I never really got why one of my friends got into routers so much. Now he tours the world as a network security expert.

The op is really the collective wisdom of a number of goons including the ops of the previous versions of this thread.

TraderStav posted:

Watched an episode of Homeland flawlessly... thanks for the shout out. It was a bit quiet, but whatcha gonna do in a noisy hospital room with heartbeats and stuff going on?!

I stream a lot of content at home and by far airvideo does the best job.

Adbot · # ¿ May 15, 2024 07:46

Devian666 · # ¿ Dec 7, 2011 00:42

I thought for proxies people were either using Tor or a VPN service to avoid blocked sites. Maybe someone could recommend a VPN service for you.

If you need actual anonymity Tor is used primarily for this, and for many other reasons.