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movax
Aug 30, 2008

CopperHound posted:

Oh, I've never encountered armored zip cable before so I can't speak to personal experience. I have two concerns I want to point out:
-That cable has a minimum bend radius of 90mm, so you would need to use a faceplate that is angled to keep the back of the connector from jamming into the wall on the back side. This also means you can't just jam a bunch of spare length in the wall, you would probably have to neatly coil it in attic or crawlspace.
-With preterminated cable you need to get the idea of "pulling" out of your head. Think more "placing" and any string you tie to the end is just to help guide it. Bulk cable usually has a spec for max pulling force. With terminated cables you can't know the aramid yarn is anchored in the connector, so there is a good chance the fiber strand is taking most of the pulling force.
There are some preterminated cables that come with a pulling sock and cable gland you can pull, but I mostly see those in high strand count MPO cable.

H110Hawk posted:

MPO cables and their ilk are used for various things. You can run 100G natively over them. You can also break them out with cassettes into a number of duplex pairs depending on the type you buy.

If you're installing fiber you should expect to be punching holes in your walls at every point where there is a turn, wood blocking, etc. At this point I would be focused on installing conduit if you're going to insist on fiber. If you ever put a screw through this fiber you're going to be R&R'ing the whole span as you don't have the appropriate tools to do inline splicing (I presume.) Remember that 10G will run just fine over UTP cable for 100M if you get appropriate transceivers.

Thanks, this is really helpful. I've pulled only copper / Cat5 before, so fiber is a new beast to me. I don't "need" 10Gb (who does, really at home), but I do plan on making my gooncave office the very top floor 4F (using a MoCA adapter for now since it has coax) where I'm gonna toss my ESXi box, main PC and some other stuff.

There are so many runs in this place (Security system, in-wall speakers) over the years and I'm not sure when (if at all) drywall was completely torn out to sneak it in, or if it was just a series of patches done. Just hoping I can find a good vertical channel, ideally to piggyback along all the coax to get the backbone through.

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movax
Aug 30, 2008

FunOne posted:

Still can't get this old Fitbit Aria wifi scale back on my Unifi network. I've enabled support for legacy devices and updated to the newest controller and firmware this weekend. Any other ideas before I give up?

Also, what should I have my 5ghz channel widths set to? Does it matter after 40mhz?

Otherwise the network is awesome.

I checked my nearby channels / usage and my neighbors are all up in the 132+ range (channel-wise), so I could do some nice VHT80 signals down at the lower end and avoid DFS issues + avoid the neighbors, and it's been awesome.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Also, double-posting — seems like the wiring in my house will be more difficult to do then planned... I take it I'm SOL sticking w/ Ubiquiti if I want a switch w/ 8-10 1GbE ports and a single 10GbE SFP+ slot?

movax
Aug 30, 2008

H2SO4 posted:

Pretty much. You're looking at north of $600 new for anything UniFi switch-only with SFP+ ports. You can probably find a deal on a used 16-XG but you'd still have to fill it up with copper SFPs if you need more than 4 1Gb copper connections.

I'm honestly wrestling with my dreams for this place a bit. The Wi-Fi is "good" enough with my temporary setup (nanoHD in the 4F office, flexHD in the 0F garage blasting upwards) and an ActionTec MoCA adapter giving me my 1 GbE copper backbone from garage to 4F. But, it's only been like two weeks...

I still wanted / want to put an AP on every floor w/ Tx power set to the absolute lowest, and still want to put my N1548P in the garage with a bunch of wall jacks routed straight to it (including running 8 or so up to the office) but man, this place just did some weird poo poo wall-wise and no LV contractors are working right now. The living room is the worst offender — the cable I thought was just popped up from the garage actually goes outside, runs along the condo for a bit, and then pops back into the place.

So, for that particular physically bottlenecked location where I'm looking at either pulling the propane fireplace out temporarily, or ripping up granite and hardwood floor...trying to get a fiber there to a little 8 or 10-port switch makes sense to me, but the rational part of my brain also knows that I could probably just go buy another pair of ActionTecs and just have a little EdgeSwitch 8 there and call it a day — a Switch, Wi-Fi AP and ATV streaming 4K aren't going to saturate a 1GbE connection. But, if I'm going to put in effort, and especially in a place I own and intend to keep, leaving room for future 16K ultra-porn isn't the worst idea...

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Rollie Fingers posted:

I'm highly unimpressed by the 2.4 ghz speeds on my NanoHD

I've adjusted DTIM to 3, set it to use channel 11 (the least busiest according to the scan) and set the power to medium, and that managed to improve my download speed from ~3mbps to ~20mpbs from the default settings. I'm on a 220mbps line.

My 5ghz performance has improved considerably, but 2g speeds lag way behind my lovely Virgin Super Hub 3. Strange thing is I get roughly the same performance from 2g whether I'm two metres away or in my bedroom upstairs with 2 walls and a floor in between.

What's the card on the other side? And the channel width?

My question — right now I just have two VLANs, 1 and 1003 (artifact of using VLANs with my old Airport Base Station) which is basically "All my actual poo poo" and "IoT poo poo". Have a separate infrastructure SSID w/ UniFi that all the IoT wireless things connect too, and a few wired things.

I'm planning on "actually" doing this right and adding a management VLAN, but curious — can you do multiple VLANs on a single SSID? I'm idly curious if I can shove thermostats onto one VLAN, some other smart things on another VLAN so they're also separated from each other in addition to my main hardware. So basically tell UniFi "hey, put VLANs 1000 through 1010 onto infrastructure, put these MACs onto 1000, these MACs onto 1001 and so on".

I suspect the answer is no, unless the wifi clients are VLAN aware which most of these ESP32 based things are not (they can barely deal with anything outside of 802.11b, so...).

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Thanks Ants posted:

There's no real concept of VLANs on Wi-Fi. If I understand you correctly you want to put certain clients on one VLAN, other clients on a different, but all within the same SSID? That's possible but it depends on the access point - normally you can send back groups with the RADIUS response and use that group to allocate clients to different VLANs.

Yep, exactly — right now I'm all Ubiquiti, so I have nanoHD and FlexHDs.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Revisiting my ideas for getting wired Ethernet to my living room, opinion check on two options:

Scenario: My living room / TV area basically is right above the fireplace which actually juts out over the edge of my house, deleting any easy access from the garage below.

1. The PO already had a low-voltage guy add a cable jack to feed the TV, which I discovered he basically did outside the house already. Punched a hole in the stucco outside the garage, and then underneath the fireplace. It’s not in a conduit, just bare RG whatever. I could MoCA this to a little switch and then feed all my devices, but that’s too easy. Since the dude already knocked holes in the exterior, thinking about just following this path, but adding a conduit (PVC or metal?) that I’ll run the cable inside.

2. Knock some holes in drywall in a closet, try to bring up runs from the garage, run under a cabinet, knock out two more holes in the wall, an old fireplace wall and then end up where I need.

Number 2 is all interior which is appealing but is a lot of hole punching to get stuff where I need it to go. Number 1 is outside but it already did the work of putting a goddamned exterior hole in, and if I add conduit, I should be able to use my Monoprice Cat6 solid core (right?).

In either case, I think I want to run 6-8 drops to feed an AP, at least a TV and ATV and then spares for future stuff like consoles. What size conduit should I be looking at for that (plus I guess I’ll keep a coax in there).

movax
Aug 30, 2008

astral posted:

That does sound obnoxious, but apparently they've already promised to fix it.

Disturbingly, however, the official comment by Ubiquiti which allegedly said this was in a thread that is a dead link now: https://community.ui.com/questions/...62-8cc6688f2d81

Putting in a UDM-Pro at my parents’ place in a few weeks... will trip report on how that goes. Definitely going to end up with two controllers in the short term, but I guess with one login you can choose between sites?

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Pi Hole chat is probably a good time for me to ask... I’d rather not use a Pi as my DNS server. Any equivalent that can run on the ER-4?

I have an ESXi host as well that I’m bringing up but part of the idea of me getting an ER-4 was to divorce network functions from another host. But if a container (podman!) and secondary DNS is the way to go then...so be it I guess.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

SlowBloke posted:

Ubiquiti has announced the controller-less UDM variant (uxg pro) pricing. 499$ for the pleasure of not having the controller, protect or a integrated switch.

I'm beginning to regret my choice of UDM-Pro for my parents, not because of that release, but because throwing in entirely UniFi (as opposed to an ER-4 + CK) might have not been the best idea...

T-man posted:

since a lot of people only check bookmarks, you should know that our admin, lowtax, has been credibly accused of abusing his partner.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3928980

please do what you believe to be ethical.

For anyone that wants a more SH/SC focused place to talk about this, there is a thread here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3929022

Otherwise, request is for thread topics to generally continue as normal.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

SwissArmyDruid posted:

You and me both, Movax. The more I think about it, the more I regret the usg + switch + butt key (I found someone to sell me a bundle of all the above plus what follows without gouging me and in stock) + an AP, when I could just do edgerouter + ap + butt key and be done.

I haven't even set it up yet and the posts on the Ubiquiti sub-Reddit and this thread are like "Goddamn, how did they ever release this loving thing.".

I'm going to their place next week, I guess it isn't too late to just order a CKG2 + ER-4 and ship it to them, honestly. Just need to get a VPN endpoint setup while I'm there so I can get to that CK to manage their APs.

I mean, gently caress, even my CKG2 has stopped giving me device firmware updates. Unless it somehow is on a different cadence, loving thing is like 5 versions behind.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

PerniciousKnid posted:

What kind of issues are there with the UDM?

I just deployed a UDM-Pro and some nanoHD and flexHD, Flex Switxhes at my parents — pretty smooth. Also not a complicated setup (no VLANs yet), but I err conservative on my settings that a lot of folks may not like killing off the auto optimize features and things like that. No doubt though that people see problems, the amount of posts on it are insane, and I’m sure if my parents had more IoT poo poo and I did VLANs and other configs I would hit them

I still need to dig in and make sure I’m secure the cloud aspect of it as well — I have an ER-4 + UniFi at home, this is my first UniFi routing and switching experience.

The current issue I’m actually having is the devices at my parents’ place seem to be sticking to 2.4 and not always hopping to 5. As far as I know, this doesn’t happen at my place. BUT, my parents have Fire Sticks and popping open the WiFi Analyzer on my laptops, those loving things broadcast a 5GHz network on the same channel as the AP its connected too, allegedly for the remote. I’m wondering if it’s the reason the clients (almost all Apple devices) are deciding to go to 2.4.

Any ideas on that? Don’t really want to separate SSIDs or disable 2.4 on certain APs, and I’ve set band steering on the AP in question, but things are still getting stuck on 2.4.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

astral posted:

What do you have the transmit powers set to?

Medium / Medium on each AP (for both 2G and 5G).

withoutclass posted:

I battled this with one of my devices and it ended up being that the Roku Stick+ will not connect to any DFS 5ghz network. Might be worth looking at.

I read something similar about the Fire sticks but I intentionally chose VHT40 and VHT80 on the low and high side of the range (36 and 155 IIRC).

movax
Aug 30, 2008

In this case the Fire Stick is actually working flawlessly, I’m wondering if it’s stupid WiFi direct thing is making it so other devices keep jumping to 2.4... only real difference I can think of.

At my place, I temporarily have a FlexHD below me in the garage and my phone can iperf 300Mbps+ on 5GHz. Insane to me at my parents place with less neighbors and less congestion, in the same room as the AP, that it can’t jump to 5 and sits on 2.4 pulling down like 10Mbps.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

SlowBloke posted:

Unifi bandsteering is wack, it's a lot quicker/simpler to separate SSIDs, use the stock setting with a prefix on 2.4Ghz instead of manual separation over each ap. Even when limiting power to low the 2.4Ghz radio will still emit stronger than the 5Ghz one.

I'm now actually wondering if my setup at home has 2.4 turned off on my "main" SSID and is only on the IoT VLAN / SSID...

movax
Aug 30, 2008

As an update to my situation, some combination of tweaking transmit powers, going to VHT40 channels at 36, 149 and 151 seemed to help out. I’m sure time and devices power cycling also helped out.

There are some areas now that the UniFis can’t quite hit that the Orbi could but the remote management / better VPN capability to remotely fix my folks’ stuff was worth it.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

KingKapalone posted:

How's Xfinity gigabit? What modem would I want to get with it?

I run an Amazon open box SB8200, delivers handily for 1000/35 with Xfinity. No issues.

I miss my old 1000/1000 WaveG connection but it’ll be years until anything changes for us CATV peasants, I’m sure. Hope I’m wrong, but decades ago we made the choice for limited upstream bandwidth because it made sense, and now we get to try fight our way to the Shannon limit with wired LTE.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

CrazyLittle posted:

You can still do initial setups of UniFi APs using their mobile app.

My own recommendation is to run the unifi controller somewhere on your layer 2 network, and keep it running anyways (with regular config backups), since you gain all of the control and visibility that multiple access points afford you. If it's just a single AP in a small apartment, then whatever - paperclip the fucker every six months if you need to... why care?

That said, I'm also another vote of no confidence in Ubiquiti's direction in any of their newer product lines. Don't bother w/ Ubiquiti if it's not one of these lines:

1) Edgemax routers
2) Edgemax switches
3) UniFi access points
4) UniFi switches

This, coming from a goon whose whole house is wired for unifi with a USG firewall on gigabit internet, and 4 switches + 5 APs.

My UDM Pro deployment went OK at my parent's place but man I do not like the amount of warning it tosses up for "High TCP Latency" and other such things. My UniFi setup at my place barely complains about anything, but I am doing only APs here. My construction is 1982-1984, 4 story townhome, my parents is 2005, 2 story massive house. I'm personally blaming the fuckery on the Amazon Fire hardware and me having to change Tx power as a result.

That all said though... generally agree with the above but I think I might actually prefer the EdgeSwitch over the UniFi switch, right now. I found the UniFi switch UI lovely for setting up a simple LAG; the EdgeSwitch UI is way more intuitive, I feel, but at the same time, it is not as centralized / organized if you have a lot of switches.

I did just have a weird issue occur where after a power outage, the SFP link between my ER-4 and EdgeSwitch did not come back up, allowing me to VPN in but be trapped at my ER-4. Anyone have something like that happen before? Tempted to just go back to a copper Cat5/Cat6 cable because they're 3 feet apart and I don't need anything faster than 1 Gb.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Wacky Delly posted:

All raspberry pis before the 4 run the ethernet over the USB2 bus. So they won't get more than about 300mb/s even on a gigabit network.

Did the RPi 4 SOC finally have an integrated Ethernet MAC, or did it just move Ethernet to USB 3.0? Forgot off the top of my head (and what industry that SOC was originally intended for).

movax
Aug 30, 2008

SlowBloke posted:

Dedicated RGMII path, USB3 comes from pcie. The original SoC was for phones(which is why it had only one usb port).

Thanks! About as sane as you can get there in terms of connectivity. I always hated the USB LAN controller on the RPis.

sean10mm posted:

Apologies if this is the wrong thread for this question, but here goes:

Is there a significant difference in quality between Intel and Realtek Ethernet on modern motherboards? For instance is Intel I225-V 2.5Gb Ethernet substantively better than Realtek RTL8125B 2.5Gb Ethernet? If it's like :20bux: more to get a mobo with Intel instead of Realtek is it worth it?

There seems to be a lot of generic prejudice against Realtek and in favor of Intel, but not a lot of evidence one way or the other, other than the general tendency of motherboard makers to only put Intel on higher-end products.

Today I learned about the B1/B2 stepping of the I225 having IPG issues with "some" switch ICs / other ends of the link, with the end result potentially having to be running at 1Gb. I am not an enterprise networking guy but my experience with Intel NICs (mostly Ophir, 82570 and friends) as a user and system designer was always awesome and loving rock solid. Have heard that the newer generations have slipped somewhat, but at the home, I always endeavored to get mobos w/ Intel MAC + PHYs. Granted, I am still running the same P67-based Asus motherboard (82579 PHY) I got in 2010, and the P5Q I had before that running a Core 2 Duo, I never used the lovely Atheros controller and tossed in whatever Intel PCIe x1 NIC had the 82574L on it.

Maybe the verification / validation group has lost some talent in recent years coupled with SOCs/hardware still ever-increasing in complexity...who knows.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

I need some help in finding some wall mount rack(s) options for the space I have. I think I'm going to end up putting two 5 or 6U racks "side by side" and wondering if that's a common thing or not.

Here's the space I have to work with, which is in my garage. Those other two boxes are breaker panels, so I need to keep clear of those to keep within NEC.



I'm crowded out by my breaker panel, and water heater area. That wall on the left there seems appealing, but is likely a pain in the rear end to get too, being above the water heater.



So, I have this area right above the door to work with:


(some of the cable I've been running hanging out there — any ideas for wire bushings / grommets to clean up the look from the outside?)

Rough dimensions:



The stuff that I want put in rack:
  • ER-4 (1U)
  • Butt Key Gen 2 (1U)
  • Cable Modem (maybe in a 3D Printed bracket) (1U)
  • 24-port patch panel (1U)
  • 24-port switch (1U)
  • PDU / Power Strip (1U)
  • Future Patch Panel (1U)
  • Future Switch (1U)
  • Future Aggregation Switch (1U)

Notionally I'd run the PDU to an UPS on a separate wall shelf somewhere. So that's easily 6U right now which "raw" is 9", and then add on some overhead of the rack and I don't think you can go much more without running into the roughly 14" height limit. With "everything" planned in the future right now, that's 9U.

My plan is to stack the patch panels / switches such that I can use 6" patch cables to interlink them, so it'll end up something like patch, switch, switch, patch or patch, switch, patch, switch. I think "logically" speaking, I could 4-5U on just switching, and then 3U on just my WAN (cable modem / router) and WiFi/Video (UniFi controller). Since my WAN link is weak (Comcast), in terms of data linkage if I was to split the rack, it would just be 2 patch cables.

StarTech has some reasonable options for 6U racks, both enclosed and unenclosed — enclosed seems like it's "better" but curious what people's thoughts on that are, and if I'm thinking about this sanely. I don't really want to split the patch panels from the switches because the tiny 6" patch cables keep it pretty tight looking.

fake edit Just remembered: there's some very basic coax action going on as well. I don't use it right now, except taking advantage of some coax links for MoCA right now before I run Ethernet. Should I just keep that off on its own wall-mount thing, or are there actual clean 1U-ish rack mount coax splitter / distribution type stuff as well?

movax fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Jul 31, 2020

movax
Aug 30, 2008

SlowBloke posted:

All of your stuff looks pretty thin, maybe you could use something like this

https://www.techly.com/19-ghost-rack-cabinet-with-white-blind-door.html?___store=en_ty

Interesting! Looks pretty sharp, but I think it's too wide for the space I have (1210 mm -> 47", only have ~ 41" to work with.)

I think I'm going to have keep the floor clear:


Other idea could be to put it outside, but I'd rather keep the garage clear:


Doesn't really get me much besides some more horizontal space. I guess the only advantage is that inside of the mechanical room is completely clear overhead if someone's moving around something tall in there, but they'd have to through the same door anyways...

e: How terrible is something this cheap likely to be? At least returns could be easy since I can just drive it down to the AmazonFresh.

movax fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Aug 2, 2020

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Thanks Ants posted:

V7 is an Ingram Micro own-brand, so I would assume the quality will be reasonable. You'll burn through 6U really quickly though so get the biggest thing you can physically fit into the space you have. The 9U version of that is £90 so I'm sure you can get it for not much more than the 6U one.

9U would actually be perfect but I don't have the height above the door for it. Currently looking at this NavePoint as the height just squeaks in, and putting 2 side-by-side: https://smile.amazon.com/NavePoint-Enclosure-Cabinet-Switch-Depth-Perforated/dp/B0794MNZ82/

movax
Aug 30, 2008

devmd01 posted:

Other than dimension, are you set on open frame vs. enclosed? I would think having them enclosed especially in the tight space you have would be a pain in the rear end to deal with. It’s a utility closet, it doesn’t need to be pretty.

True — not set on enclosed, I just figured it would be good for keeping dust / whatever out of it. I ordered two of the enclosed ones to do a bit of fit-checking, but if I run into issues I can revisit the open-frame ones.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

sellouts posted:

How does a nanoHD “auto” setting for radio power work? I feel like coverage in my apartment is light so I should probably just turn it to medium or high

As I understand it "auto" 99% of the time just ends up being "high". I would do a basic site survey to see what WLAN channels are in use near your place, and then start at "medium" + picking the least utilized channel.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Is there a better place than eBay to offload networking equipment specifically? Thinking I might reactivate my account on other FS/FT forums, or try (ugh) Reddit homelab or something like that. Have a 48-port Dell switch I want to unload and my first eBay auction ended like $300 too low.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

skipdogg posted:

A guy I follow on twitter picked up a couple of these 2.5 Gbps MoCA adapters and really seems to like them. Might be a solid alternative for those who have good coax wiring in their house

There are some folks on twitter posting these pulling a full 980Mbps download speed off these on a home gig line

https://www.gocoax.com/products

https://www.amazon.com/goCoax-Adapter-2-5Gbps-Ethernet-WF-803M/dp/B07XYDG7WN

The ActionTec ones I have even support passing along VLANs, from what I can tell. Has been a good option so far until I get really invasive and run fiber + a ton of Cat6 down to the basement.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Garrand posted:

IP leases are held by mac address, so as long as the device in question is using the same medium (wired vs wireless) the router will continue to hand out the same ip address - with some caveats about not letting the lease time run out while the wifi is off and having another device grab it. All you'd need to do is setup the mesh devices (presumably with the same network name and password) and then turn off the wifi on the router. Mesh will be a lot better than using a regular wifi extender.

Most devices (should / required?) have a different MAC for the wireless and wired interfaces, so you’d have to assign a “duplicate” lease which would probably break if that device somehow connected using both interfaces.

Unless I misunderstood the details above which I probably did.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

I went with NextDNS from a suggestion in this thread — works awesome, and doesn’t add dependence on a Pi in the network. Ran the one line command to install on my ER-4 and all devices now enjoy the reduced ad experience.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Incessant Excess posted:

I use ethernet client refers to my desktop and ethernet port to the one on the nanohd? I thought that's what I needed the poe injector for, which has a port for poe and one for lan like this:



Am I mistaken?

That injector is for creating a PoE connection; if you don’t have a switch that does PoE, you hook up a cable from the switch to “LAN”, and then the PoE output to whatever device needs PoE. The other side has the AC input connector where it gets power from.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Sniep posted:

haha hi also closing monday pal, but mine is up in Port Orchard, WA


that said, I've got gbit fiber coming so i did a little networking prep ahead of time



i cant wait lol

edge side for internet/other-network facing, unfii for wireless APs and security cams off that 150w PoE switch on the bottom

Happy to see someone else was a sucker paid for Ubiquiti rack mount kits :hmmyes:

movax
Aug 30, 2008

FunOne posted:

UBNT controller upgrade to 6.0 trassssshed my network. I don't run VLANs, but apparently it ADDED a control VLAN to my config, leading to a full on broadcast storm.

I've got one AP back up and running, but the one that caused the storm is still stuck adopting. I'm going to give it a few to see if it comes around, then I guess I have to climb up on a ladder to reset it?

I've forced my controller's IP address in the controller setting and I still can't get it to adopt. Any ideas?

Cut the power, "forgot" the device, then re-adopted it. PITA, but we're back online.

I saw some traffic on this on the forums and Reddit... holy poo poo, what the gently caress was Ubiquiti thinking?

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Sniep posted:

the thing is i am absolutely in the middle of nowhere, relatively speaking (Port Orchard, WA, population 14,200, between gig harbor and bremerton, on the peninsula west of the puget sound... it's not like a suburb of Denver like i just moved from where it was dense AF but comcast sued any competition out of existence that tried to move in)

I can't believe that this county (Kitsap) has this, all just a community effort over the past like 5 years to allow people to pay their own runs, i got so lucky

I forgot you were in the PNW. I moved from downtown to a place on the hill, and gave up WaveG for loving Comcast. Port Orchard is pretty nice. Almost zero chance I can pay for fiber here even though I'm sure there's fiber backbone less than 2000 ft away. (poo poo, Seattle Internet Exchange is like 1 mile away). I've always entertained ending up on Bainbridge though.

Honestly, now that I think about it, I could probably put up a 60 GHz link and get some insane connectivity if I found someone willing to put up a dish on their end.

New question for thread.... I have all these now useless phone jacks in my house, and I think the remains of an intercom system. What hardware do I need if I want to make those "live" again, for the purposes of providing either a VoIP adapter (learn how to set it up networking wise), or more likely, a fake BBS / ISP if I want some of my retroputers to dial out via modem? Is it really just a PCI hardware modem + Linux and I can do the rest w/ Asterisk / software? Or at this point I'm sure someone's gotten a USB RPi PBX thing working, so I can throw this all in a NEMA box in my basement. Bonus points if I can somehow wire in my incoming phone line (currently dead) as a switchover should I decide to turn it for a few months.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

evilweasel posted:

Has anyone ever used MoCA Adapters (basically, running ethernet through coaxial cable)? My apartment has coax wired but unused, and this seemed like a good way to get a wired connection throughout the apartment (wifi has been having issues) rather than needing to run ethernet cables, and the coax outlets in the apartment are currently unused. But I have just never heard of it before looking around today, and having difficulty finding any reviews of the stuff that isn't blatantly trying to sell me stuff for referral commissions.

(alternatively, if anyone has any ideas why my Eero network that worked flawlessly for two+ years suddenly is utter poo poo, I'm all ears on how to figure that out because I'm going loving nuts trying to fix it :v:)

I use the Actiontec ones as wired backhaul in my house right now — rock solid, and even support VLANs.

Used to get 800 Mbps or so with just 2, but I added a 3rd to support my girlfriend’s office and it’s dropped to 200. Maybe quality of coax, maybe something else but at least it works and is stable.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

My ER-4 is doing just fine, but I futz with it so seldomly that I have to re-learn / teach myself VyOS all over again. The Protectli boxes are appealing, mostly to play with Coreboot... I kinda like that whole vibe / being "open" so you know what's going on. At the same time, thin clients are dirt cheap, so spending like $500 total on a Protectli box is kinda hard to swallow.

I'm only doing 1000/40 Comcast, and I think I can get WireGuard on my ER-4 now, so no pressing need, but the Web UI is of course garbage on it.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

I'm UniFi APs, EdgeRouter for routing (thinking about pfSense occasionally) and have started getting UniFi switches to replace my EdgeSwitches. The EdgeSwitch UI is actually pretty good + better for a power user — Ubiquiti makes some braindead UI/UX decisions in their controller and it's nuts that I can do some stuff from the phone but not the web browser interface. Not sure what I'll do with my EdgeSwitches later, but I got sucked into the whole 'one dashboard' thing... but not enough to ever consider switching to it for routing for myself.

Got a Cloud Key Gen 2 Plus recently though to replace my Cloud Key Gen 2 (selling it on SA-Mart) as I do want to try out the Protect stack.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

DrDork posted:

Looking for a recommendation here. We are re-doing our home network stack, at its core will be a Cisco Meraki switch and wireless AP (got 'em free and they seem quite nice), as well as some Mikrotik SFP switches. We've had a generic Netgear as our router/firewall (lol)/VPN server and would like to replicate that functionality with something a little less...poo poo.

So what are some favorites here for a firewall + VPN server, with enough power to keep up with symmetrical 1Gb internet? We do have a 24/7 NAS that might be able to pick up that duty via software VM, though I'd have to ensure it has enough ports available, but we're looking to keep tech-janitoring to a minimum. I'm fine going to the box and telling it to update every so often, but I don't want it to be such a manual solution that I need to be touching it every week.

How long are the licenses on the "free" Meraki stuff you got? That's going to suck when they run out.

If I had to do a new router/firewall today, I think I would go protectli and pfSense it on one of the i3 models. You can get the same thing from AliExpress as well, but I like the idea of using CoreBoot on a machine like that and they've at least done the legwork in making sure the specific white box model works with their CoreBoot binaries — its an extra $150 over ordering from Ali, but it ships faster / saves you a bit of time. I think the only thing I would knock it on is not having a SFP slot — don't really need 6 copper NICs and it would save me an adapter in my current setup.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

DrDork posted:

3 years, which'll be long enough that by then I'll expect to be moving up to some better gear--I've got enough stuff running over SFP+'s that I'm hoping my next reset will be able to be based around something like a 8-port 10Gb minimum switch as the core and then a 8-port 1Gb ethernet off a trunk for the low-speed devices. Plus it looks like a 3 year license for my setup would only be about $100, so if I got 6 total years out of the gear for $100, I'd consider that a steal.

Protectli looks pretty neat--is there any real need for the i3 model when even their lowest end one claims full gigabit line speeds? Since it'd simply be sitting at the border I'd have no need of the additional ports of the higher end models, and it'd only be serving up stuff for two people + a NAS (admittedly running a crap ton of torrents, but still).

e; I don't care much about VPN speeds--anything I'm doing via VPN is usually just light browsing or at most streaming a 1080p or lower movie off Plex.

I have a psychological aversion to buying anything from Intel that's Celeron / Atom / not part of the "main" Core series. It's completely irrational and there is data to prove I'm wrong, but I just remember those generations where they knee-capped the gently caress out of Celerons and they were god awful.

You said you don't care about VPN speeds though, so the main reason (they benched here: https://protectli.com/kb/openvpn-performance/) to get the FW6x doesn't apply to you. But seeing as even 10+ year old machines could theoretically support Gbit line rates, you'd be 'future proofing' for awhile if you got a FW6 I think, in case you wanted to throw VPN or other functions on there.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

Incessant Excess posted:

Is there a best practice as far as SSID goes? Do you guys use the same one for 2,4 and 5 GHz networks or do you keep them separate?

Combined for my main network, separate for IoT.

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movax
Aug 30, 2008

Biowarfare posted:

I had a huge deployment of Atom Avoton SoCs and they pretty much all died. Not even a 'bad AES performance or something' type of problem but just dies after a while.

Was that the LPC clock bug that murdered them?

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