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How is Asus RT-N56U compared to the OP-recommended RT-N16? They're pretty much the same price, is the N56U just an updated version? E: Well gently caress it, just buying it. Can't be that bad, right? nielsm fucked around with this message at 11:53 on Jul 27, 2013 |
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Jul 27, 2013 10:03
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 16:41 |
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Gothmog1065 posted:The more I think about it, the more I think I'm just going to move the XBox and plug it directly into the modem and bypass the router completely. Yeah can't you just get a switch and plug Xbox and router into that?
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Jul 27, 2013 17:15
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Boz0r posted:I've had a D-Link DIR-645 router for about 6 months where it's worked perfectly, but in the past two weeks it's started dropping the connection every 1-2 hours. It refreshes itself after a bit of time, but I usually go into the administration and tell it to renew the DHCP connection, so I won't get dropped from an online game or something. I.e. there is a building-wide network with DHCP server that assigns addresses to whatever you plug in? And this DHCP server rejects your lease-renewal every so often kicking you entirely off? This is only a guess, but perhaps there is some misbehaved device attached to the building network, that causes it to exhaust the DHCP pool and kick others off. Have you talked to any other tenants about it, do they experience the same thing too?
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Jul 28, 2013 16:16
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This morning I had a small power outage, and when it came back my Asus RT-N56U had seemingly lost all its settings, particularly Wifi SSID and security stuff. I didn't check the rest or try fixing it since I couldn't bother bringing up my main PC before leaving, but is it supposed to work that way? I can't recall any other routers I've used losing their settings over a small power outage like that. Is there anything I can do to make the setting changes more permanent in the future?
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Aug 6, 2013 08:07
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OnceIWasAnOstrich posted:The problem is now I have no idea how to access the router administration page. Obviously the actual access point is 192.168.1.1 now, and I didn't set an IP so I assumed it got one via DHCP. I managed to log into the main router because chumps didn't change the default password on this ancient WRT54G, but I am not seeing anything new on the DHCP table. Uh, it ought to be in the DHCP table. How many entries are there on it? Have you tried just plugging them into your browser one by one?
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Aug 9, 2013 23:26
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Yesterday my old-ish EdgeRouter-X stopped working properly. It would only occasionally hand out DHCP, and packets definitely did not get routed properly. The uplink from my ISP was working fine if I skipped the router4. This persisted even after power cycling it. The router has been running very hot (my estimate is over 40 C/100F on the outside) pretty much all the time I remember. After powering it off, leaving it to cool for several hours, then powering it on again it seemed to work normally, or at least it would respond to HTTP for the admin interface, but I no longer trust it to continue working. Right now I'm using my ISP supplied router, but would prefer something better featured. (The admin interface for it is also absolutely terrible.) So I'd like some advice for a new router. I already have a standalone UniFi AP which is working perfectly, so I don't need AP built into the a new router. One feature I would like to have, if possible, is be able to set up a separate VLAN that routes traffic over a VPN, for example to access geoblocked services in a device neutral way. It needs to be a small device that can easily be wall-mounted, or even hang from an RJ-45 jack.
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Aug 16, 2023 20:29
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Actually, I think I'm rather settled on wanting to try a Mikrotik hEX (not-lite), but do anyone have arguments against it?
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Aug 18, 2023 10:04
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SamDabbers posted:The hEX is almost identical hardware to the ER-X. It's an older platform at this point, but if the latter could handle the throughput for your Internet connection then the hEX should too. The ER-X could handle my connection well enough, but it was permanently running quite hot, though I don't think I was anywhere close to its capacity. The majority of the traffic would have been switching, not routing, too.
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Aug 18, 2023 12:55
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You're right, the hAP ax models definitely sound like a better choice. The ax3 model seems a bit of an upgrade on the ax2, so I may go with that. I've also looked at the L009 series, but it doesn't seem like a great deal in the end. The only thing it offers if an SFP cage, and if I wanted to take advantage of that then I wouldn't have be able to take advantage of the extra Ethernet ports over the hAP ax2/3 models.
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Aug 18, 2023 20:40
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Does your phone have a IPv6 address (besides link-local)? And if it does, did it get it via DHCP or router discovery?
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Oct 5, 2023 21:15
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At a glance, that sounds wrong. I assume you mean PPPoE, Point to Point Protocol over Ethernet. Bridge mode is not a feature of PPPoE as far as I know, but a way for a home router to operate. In bridge mode, a home router doesn't actually do router things, but just acts as a modem that translates the protocol from the ISP (which is PPPoE in this case) into regular Ethernet, where the customer can then put their own router after. If you supply your own router that can do PPPoE in the WAN port then you shouldn't need another device between the fiber box and your router. (Almost any home router in the past 15 years can do PPPoE.) Try hooking your new Archer router up directly to the ISP's fiber box, configure it for PPPoE mode (you may need some configuration values from the ISP for this) on the WAN port, and see if it gets an IP address from the ISP. If it does, then it should work like that.
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Oct 15, 2023 22:27
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I'm just going to report than so far I'm quite happy with an hAP ax2 as replacement for my dying ER-X, but I'm also not doing any kind of funny rules (so far). It took a bit of getting used to the very different interface Mikrotik offers, but after clicking around a bunch it feels more straightforward than how Ubiquity has their interface organized. I also replaced my single UniFi AP with the AP function in the ax2, and it also seems to be just fine, throughput-wise.
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Oct 20, 2023 07:24
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Moving the existing router is not an option? Is it impossible to extend the cables it's hooked up with?
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Oct 25, 2023 18:03
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Eletriarnation posted:You can roll your own home VPN straightforwardly using services like Wireguard or Tailscale, but it's still going to stand out if someone is able to inspect the traffic coming from your device and sees it all going to one particular address block in another country. The exact nature of what you are doing over the VPN will be hidden, but the fact that you are using a VPN will not unless they're just relying on a list of known VPN servers. To elaborate on this, normal services you access via the VPN will generally not be able to detect that they're being accessed via VPN. It will just look like traffic from your home connection. However your ISP will be able to see that it looks like someone is bouncing off your connection via a VPN setup, and might have things that act on that, possibly automatically. That might assume that someone backdoored something on your network and are abusing your connection, and shut it off until you fix it. Or if you're accessing services that have edge-servers (I think Netflix does that, among others?) the ISP could potentially inform that service that your connection might be bounced off a VPN. I don't know how common or likely either of those scenarios are, but they are technically possible.
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Nov 13, 2023 19:46
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Wild EEPROM posted:the legs are hollow cardboard and won’t hold up anything screwed to them at all They used to be solid, but cheapified the design quite a while ago.
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Dec 3, 2023 07:19
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I have a bunch of retro computers, and when hooking them up to Ethernet, sometimes their link negotiation (or configured speed) might force my gigabit switch to put all links into 100 Mbit mode, as far as I can tell. Because of that, and possibly also just general network hygiene, I'm thinking that I should segment them off from the rest of the network. (For example, for running things like SMB 1 and an NT 4 domain.) Do anyone have general pointers for doing this? I might be able to use my old EdgeRouter X, which I mostly wrote off a few months ago, but maybe it can still work if I only give it a light load. I might also buy another switch or router instead, if the ERX won't cooperate. My two primary ideas are these:  The problem I see with idea A is that I might need to set multiple routes on clients on the main network. The problem I see with idea B is that I'd have to run another cable from the main router (a small Mikrotik) which is going to be rather annoying and might turn out ugly.
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Feb 3, 2024 15:24
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Patch and installation cables are different. Patch cables have stranded conductors while installation cables have solid core conductors. Don't try to use patch cable between sockets. Also don't make your own patch cables, it's almost never worth it. Just buy pre-made. nielsm fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Feb 4, 2024 |
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Feb 4, 2024 06:59
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How big is the house? What materials are the walls made of? (In other words, would you benefit from multiple access points across the home?) What kind of budget do you have?
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Feb 25, 2024 21:04
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 16:41 |
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wolrah posted:There's a reason in commercial radio the single big transmitter approach is limited to broadcasters and extremely localized or low traffic radio systems where cell phones and larger trunked radio networks use a bunch of smaller ones that get smaller and smaller the more densely populated an area is. This is in fact why they're called cell phones: Because they use a network of small cells the mobile radio can roam between.
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Mar 25, 2024 17:57
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