|
I'm moving into my own two story townhouse (more of an apartment as far as size is concerned) and I gotta get a new ISP. The ISP wants to charge me 10/mo for a wireless modem, which is temping considering it will be just one unit guaranteed to work. But the option exists where I can provide my own and waive the $10. Our speed is going to be up to 50MBS, but it does require DOCSIS 3.0 on the modem if I buy one. Should I just get a Motorola Surfboard Extreme for $130 that has a modem and wireless functionality built into it? The only real special thing I'd like is port forwarding if I have to, other than that I think i'm good. It will be just me and one other person using the internet for gaming, youtube, netflix, and so on.
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2015 21:30
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 00:44 |
|
|
Hello dears, Not getting the advertised speed with my new Comcast/Xfinity plan*. Just moved in. Here's the skinny: 175mbps speed plan. Getting around 95mpbs in reality. Modem is a Netgear CM400. DOCSIS 3.0 Speed: 343mbps/122mbps Router is a Linksys AC1200/ 300+867. From wall coax>modem>router>wired PC, I get 95mbps down avg. On a wireless connection from my cell, I get around 93mbps avg. Not too much lower than that when done from across the small apartment im in. Is there any way my modem can be a bottleneck here? I feel like it could be an issue if I was getting speeds near or at the max capacity for my modem, but i'm really only at 50% of that speed limit. buglord fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Sep 21, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Sep 21, 2019 05:51
|
|
|
Garrand posted:Those numbers make me think something is linking at 100mb instead of a gig. Have you swapped out the cable running between the modem and router and tested? Thanks for the help.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 22, 2019 06:25
|
|
|
Upgraded to gigabit with AT&T. Using their own modem/wifi combo (I know I know) because they are waiving the rental fee for 18 months. Modem is hardwired to my gaming pc and I get around 950mbps. My laptop, a windows-running 2013 MacBook, gets 875mbps hardwired with a USB 3.0-Ethernet adapter. Fine; fair enough because 875 is still magnitudes faster than any internet I’ve ever had and I’m not gonna bother about that. My roommates 2018 ASUS laptop, however, gets 350 when hardwired with the adapter. For the life of me, I cannot figure out what’s going on. His laptop is fairly midrange for an office machine. Some A12 quad core AMD Chip, 16gb ddr4 ram, a 1tb SSD. I know specs don’t really matter too much here, but just giving background. I tried updating drivers, nuking his windows install, but no dice. Some thoughts: 1) some network setting windows is adjusting that I’m unaware of? 2) some arcane BIOS setting I overlooked? 3) does the age of his network chip matter if I’m using a 3.0 USB dongle? 4) some Google searching brought up this TCP/IP optimizer program that solved some reddior’s similar problem. Is that worth a shot? 5)should I put Ubuntu on a stick, run an environment on the laptop, run a speed test there?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 10, 2021 21:02
|
|
|
Yeah I was wondering if the network chip kinda sucked. Its a Realtek 8822BE Wireless LAN 802.11ac PCIE. I did some googling on it and couldn't find any maximum theoretical speeds that chip uses. Is that to be expected? Is it possible drop in a new m.2 chip into its place and download the respective drivers for it? e: god dang it ubuntu was twice as fast wtf. buglord fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jan 10, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Jan 10, 2021 21:52
|
|
|
See that’s the thing. If I’m plugging into the laptop hardwired, is it still interfacing with that Realtek network chip?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 10, 2021 22:36
|
|
|
Yeah about twice as fast. Same cable, adapter. Still not anywhere near 1gbps, but enough of a change to throw my “it’s a hardware issue” idea out the window.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 10, 2021 22:47
|
|
|
rufius posted:So that were clear, you disabled WiFi when trying the hardwire test, right? Yep. No change. CaptainSarcastic posted:A couple thoughts: Yeah I ran another test with Windows in Safe Mode and the internet speeds were wildly better. Tried rolling back the wifi chip drivers but that did nothing (there is no ethernet chip or anything like that in Device Manager, i guess makes sense given that the laptop itself has no ethernet?) How would I narrow down what is loading in Windows that causes much lower internet speeds? Its a ASUS consumer-grade laptop and it seems that nuking & paving didn't remove the ASUS "helper" software? Yet I killed anything ASUS related in the task manager process list, and that didn't seem to do anything.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 14, 2021 23:06
|
|
|
I’ve been renting modem/router combos for like 8 years now because I’ve moved so often and the ISP charged so little that I didn’t care and the service was solid enough that I never felt the need to rock the boat. This new place I moved into has an ISP that’s quite different. The wireless speeds are inconsistent and the gear resets itself often. And then the only way you can change modem/router settings is through their phone app with as little customization settings as you’d expect reading this far. We can get a max of 1 gigabit, but our plan is at 300 megs which I’m fine with currently, but I may up that speed by end of year. I have 2 roommates who steam and do FaceTime, then there’s me who’s downloading a 100gb game on steam. We live in a smallish apartment, and the coax connection from the wall is in the living room which is about equally distant from all 3 of our rooms. Here’s some questions in no logical order: 1) are modem/router combos still bad? I remember general consensus being firmly anti-combo years ago. No idea if that’s still the case. 2) (don’t laugh) is getting anything used off eBay or something risky? Is the concept of shady sellers putting spywarefirmware in a secondhand router purely something my imagination? 3) do some modems have ports for fiber? My last place had fiber optic internet and I’ve never seen a router with that plug, just coax. I’d hate to drop a lot of money on a fancy modem that can’t work if I move into a place with fiber in the future. 4)is the concept of buying more router/modem than I need dumb? If this must be an expensive purchase ( I don’t want it to be) I’d prefer to do it once to allow more headroom on the future. Thanks, you lovely internet wizards. This was supposed to be a small post with like 2 questions.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2023 05:11
|
|
|
Trying to help my buddy pick out a new wireless router to work with his Netgear CM500 modem ( https://www.netgear.com/support/product/cm500#docs) His maximum download speeds have been in the low 100s, and this modem supposedly covers up to 680mpbs, so this should be fine still? However, his ISP recently doubled the speed of their baseline plan to 200 and now he can’t get over ~95 when connected to the wireless router either by Ethernet or wireless. That router is the TP-Link AC1200 (https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/wifi-router/archer-a5/). That brings up a question, shouldn’t that more than cover his current internet speeds anyway, even if he he’s theoretically using only the 2.4ghz signal? Or is there some funny math things that router manufacturers do where a rated speed has to be divided by X factor and that’s your real speed or something? I get that theoretical is a different beast than reality, but this seems far off. Something seems real obvious here but I don’t network well. Also he lives in a smaller 650sq ft apartment with his girlfriend, so it’s not like 4 iPads and 2 computers and a console are hammering the connection at once with Netflix/game downloads.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2023 18:52
|
|
|
How did I completely overlook that, good lord. I’ll confirm with my buddy rn. Thank you!
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2023 20:59
|
|
|
Aggressive Nap posted:Also that router only has a 10/100 Mbps wan port. So you're going to need a different router to get above that. So the CAT6 cable didn’t solve the problem. However I went to goodwill to look for cheap jackets and picked up a gigabit surfboard modem for $10 and two medium-tier Wi-Fi 6 routers for $10 a pop. They’ve all been power tested. Gonna reset them and then give one of the routers to my friend after it’s been cleared.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2023 04:28
|
|
|
Ask: Easy/minimal fuss range extending options for better WiFi coverage across the house. Does such a thing exist? I imagine most range extenders are marketed in a way that is nonsensical. Do powerline WiFi extenders exist? Budget: $100-200, lower better ofc. Background: Helping a friend with his networking issues. The WiFi coverage in his room is lacking. He rents in a mother in law unit physically part of the “master house” and the router appears to be as far as possible from his room. He doesn’t have causal access to the main house but he would have the ability to go in and make changes to the hardware if he needs to. His internet usage is social media, streaming shows, FaceTime. Which is to say I don’t think he’s gonna care if his speeds are 200mbps vs 300mpbs, as long as it’s enough for the above usage.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 26, 2024 04:12
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 00:44 |
|
|
Since doing product research on google is near impossible nowadays, whats a good wireless router for under $150 that can go to ranges of 50 feet or beyond? I have an ISP provided router in my room that chokes half way to the kitchen area. Current speeds are 300Mbps, plan allows us to go to 1Gb, but I don't see us going up to that level any time soon (and I have the most sensitive item, my computer, hardwired anyway). My ISP gives (rents) me a modem and router, so I think replacing the router first is a good call. Also willing to buy a refurb unit/"last gen" unit. Those are safe, right? Or no? e: Also will my ISP, Spectrum, complain if I get a router that's not in their preferred list or something? I feel like that matters more for modems than routers.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 23, 2024 04:30
|
|