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SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

Rexxed posted:

It's worth trying since it works for a lot of people. If you have issues make sure you buy it sold by Amazon so returns are easy. When I click your link it's a third party seller.

Zyxel sells direct on amazon, if you want powerline sold by amazon you need to get tplink units

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SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017
It seems that qnap is going to sell a AX200 half size PCIe card, part code is QXP-W6-AX200, i've found it in the latest QTS firmware update. So if you don't want to try random aliexpress stores, you might have a easier to get option in a few weeks. Price unknown.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

incoherent posted:

Currently using the TPLink on some really gnarly late 60s apt wiring and while i'm not getting the 1gb suggested speeds I am getting consistent 150/150mbit which is good enough 99% of my use case. I highly doubt i'm going to get anything close to my fios speeds from content providers such as ps4 (lol) or netflix.

Err powerline is super sensitive on wiring quality so you could run any brand you like but it's going to be poo poo if the wiring isn't up to spec. It's never going to be exactly as fast as promised even with perfect wiring but i've found tplinks av1200 to be decent, never tested faster av2000 units.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

IndianaZoidberg posted:

The problem is when I lunch qBittorrent, core 1 on the CPU in the router/modem goes right up to 100% (https://imgur.com/GxfMoKi) and my internet connection becomes extremely sluggish. It’s very slow. If I try playing a youtube video, automatically play at 240p or 480p, but when I run a speed test, it will show I’m getting very similar results to what I would expect, but it would also take a long time to just load the speed test (sometimes over a minute when it would take only a second before). And I don’t believe this is because it’s saturating my internet connection because qBittorrent is only showing (in this case) 18Kib/s down and 373Kib/s up. Truth is I can pause all transfers and it will act like this until I close the program. (https://imgur.com/3ek0ox9)

Once I close qBittorrent, usually everything goes back to normal in a few seconds, but once in awhile, I have to restart my Asus CM-32 AC2600. And when qBittorrent is running, I have a hard time accessing my Asus CM-32 AC2600 from the browser. It will load the background, but nothing else, and as soon as I close qBittorrent, it pops up right away. General system logs from after I have ran and closed qBittorrent (https://pastebin.com/EeavrXRc)

qbittorrent is using too many connections, lower that number.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

IndianaZoidberg posted:

Still don't know why this was never an issue with my old setup.

The asus router is likely doing routing using software while the older setup had some hardware assist. Most consumer routers rely on CPU bruteforce to do their work and lots of connections will overload them.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

IndianaZoidberg posted:

The firmware isn't something I can update on my own. There's no option to manually check for an update or flash it after its been downloaded from the manufacture. Not even mentioned in the manual. I'm guessing its because its a Comcast approved modem and they REALLY don't want to loving around with it.

https://www.asus.com/Microsite/2015/networks/routerfirmware_update/

Firmware upgrade is started from the router GUI, asus doesn't keep files on their site anymore.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

Charles posted:

Can you still use RTSP to Blue Iris if you don't want to run a cloud key, etc?

Sure but AFAIK configuration and management still require a video or protect instance so you would be running blind until you got one up.

Video and protect are the same core code so you only get a slightly different gui/mobile app out of a cloudkey/udm/unvr migration, the core issues are still there and, given their current code quality issues, unlikely to be solved anytime soon.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

Internet Explorer posted:

Oof. That's real bad.

Only the controller and very early camera units are EoL, most g2 and newer units will still work(if you trust their hardware controllers).

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

Charles posted:

I think they've been saying they'd end any updates to Video for a long time though, haven't they?

That was just user-side speculation, there was no official hints of sunsetting unifi-video until now(after all the core code is shared between the two, it's just the gui/apps part that is custom for protect). The first hint of this was when the UAS (the supermicro rebrand designed to run unifi video for bigger customers) was denied protect on rather weird basis(everybody guessed that it was to deny a x86 deb to users not running on unifi hardware).

SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 13:02 on Jul 10, 2020

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

movax posted:

Did the RPi 4 SOC finally have an integrated Ethernet MAC, or did it just move Ethernet to USB 3.0? Forgot off the top of my head (and what industry that SOC was originally intended for).

Dedicated RGMII path, USB3 comes from pcie. The original SoC was for phones(which is why it had only one usb port).

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

sean10mm posted:

Apologies if this is the wrong thread for this question, but here goes:

Is there a significant difference in quality between Intel and Realtek Ethernet on modern motherboards? For instance is Intel I225-V 2.5Gb Ethernet substantively better than Realtek RTL8125B 2.5Gb Ethernet? If it's like :20bux: more to get a mobo with Intel instead of Realtek is it worth it?

There seems to be a lot of generic prejudice against Realtek and in favor of Intel, but not a lot of evidence one way or the other, other than the general tendency of motherboard makers to only put Intel on higher-end products.

Realteks don't let you set up multiple vlans on a single wire and don't support teaming. Most motherboards that are not rock bottom quality will give you at least one intel or aquantia nowadays, just realteks(esp nbase-t) are rare.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

KozmoNaut posted:

I've got a sort of similar question as the previous post.

My ISP-supplied cable modem/router is a hunk of junk, it just doesn't work right. The cable modem part itself is perfectly fine, but the router part is a dumpster fire. The firewall configuration flat out doesn't work, there is absolutely no logic in which entries it cares to enforce. Block all DNS and DNS over TLS, then open DNS over TLS only to a specific DNS server of my choice? Nope, it'll either block ALL outgoing traffic or none at all, depending on the current weather conditions or the phase of the moon.

To make matters even worse, every time it reboots it applies wifi settings from my ISP's crappy self-service webpage. I can change those, but unfortunately it only allows passwords of <16 characters. So every time my router reboots, I have to manually fix the SSID+password again.

At least it has a bridge mode, so now I want something that actually works and does what I tell it to do. I was considering the combination of an ER-X and a Unifi AP AC Lite, but is there a better and similarly affordable option now?

It's a 50m² apartment, with a 300/60mbps connection. A single AP covers it just fine with 5GHz right now.

Older google wifi kits are starting to get cheap as the newer nest units start becoming the norm in electronics outlets, if you can stomach having your internet passing thru a google device they are good products.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

Guitarchitect posted:

Oh man. I bought a Unifi Dream Machine (UDM) and it has been nothing but trouble! Constantly drops the ports on the back (wifi works fine but the internet goes down and any wired devices get dropped). Multiple times per day when it's not working well, although I've had multi-day stretches without problems. But now it can't seem to go more than two days without making GBS threads itself.

Is there a way to rebuild its function but with a router and an AP (and probably a couple small switches)? What drew me to it was the fact that most "mesh" routers are pretty limited both in ports and function (Nest Wifi is comically bad if you need to assign IPs or do any kind of tweaking), and the UDM has a really comprehensive security layer in addition to all the stuff you can do with the UnifiOS. But I want to throw the thing out the loving window at this point. One of the things that drew me to it was the throughput with the security layer (deep packet inspection limits throughput to 850mbps, my internet is 150mbps) - the Unifi Security Gateway would basically cut my internet speed in half with DPI.

Is there something else that could get the same throughput and do the same thing? FWIW I have an always-on raspberry pi which is a Homeseer controller, so I could add something to that if I had to... but i'm guessing the throughput would take a similar hit on a raspberry pi?

I also wouldn't mind a hardware recommendation - at this point I'd almost rather just wire as many devices as I can so that just our laptops/phones/chromecasts are on wifi. My current needs:
- basement: wire in a HTPC and a Roku. router/modem will live here (they are currently in a cupboard in the living room)
- main floor: wire in a roku and a soundbar and the Homeseer controller in location A (so probably 5-port a switch, PoE ideal), put an AP in location B. chromecasts/laptops/phones would connect to it wirelessly. ideally it could hit my garage around 40' from the house
- second floor: wire in my office PC (plex server/work machine), run PoE drops to the kids' rooms for future cameras, maybe add an extra AP. ideally the main floor AP covers the upstairs too, though, for phones + laptops.

I'm entirely new to PoE but i totally get why it's awesome and it's definitely the route I would like to go if i end up putting a bunch of switches all over the place! so any kind of recommendation for gear for that would be fantastic. Luckily I think i can just fish one location to get things to both Location A and the second floor (attic) where I could then drop down to the office and kids' rooms.

I'll start with the usual "did you try talking with unifi support?", I know they are shite but the integrated switch crapping out like you said is not normal, also did you try using a switch(like a us8-60w or a usw-8lite) in place of the one integrated in the router? I'm not a big fan of using any router switch ports.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

Guitarchitect posted:

yep, have a thread going and a separate ticket going.

I started with the thread, and there was no attempt to help/diagnose, they just said to switch to Beta firmware. After a lot of frustration there i tried live chat, and they said since I'm on Beta firmware they can't support me. I emailed support and they said it's fine that I'm on beta firmware and they asked for some information which I provided and now I'm waiting for a response. So all three support channels have a different opinion/approach, it seems.

unfortunately I don't have a separate switch so that's not something I can try... besides, to get the internet onto the wifi network I have to go through the router anyway, and when the internet port goes down so do the rest of the ports. I suspect it would be fine if I had a switch come out of the modem and THAT fed an AP, hence my rambling question. Every time the switches go down my wifi network is still fine, so I have to reset the thing to get the ports back online.

UDM has a realtek switch inbetween the four lan ports and the processor, that's why the wifi still works, i would try to remove one switch port wire at a time when it "craps" out to try to isolate if it's a specific device or the whole switchchip is faulty.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

Buff Hardback posted:

They're saying leave one LAN device connected, when it dies move it to the next port and so on and on to see if it's just one port or all ports.

^ This (also do it with different devices too to see if it's a switch or device issue)

I apologize if i used cryptic language. If you are in the return period, I would still send it over, there is no documented issue with the udm switch going haywire in any recent firmware.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

movax posted:

I need some help in finding some wall mount rack(s) options for the space I have. I think I'm going to end up putting two 5 or 6U racks "side by side" and wondering if that's a common thing or not.

The stuff that I want put in rack:
  • ER-4 (1U)
  • Butt Key Gen 2 (1U)
  • Cable Modem (maybe in a 3D Printed bracket) (1U)
  • 24-port patch panel (1U)
  • 24-port switch (1U)
  • PDU / Power Strip (1U)
  • Future Patch Panel (1U)
  • Future Switch (1U)
  • Future Aggregation Switch (1U)


All of your stuff looks pretty thin, maybe you could use something like this

https://www.techly.com/19-ghost-rack-cabinet-with-white-blind-door.html?___store=en_ty

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

sellouts posted:

I have pfSense running on a QOTOM Mini PC Core I5 5200U. Has wifi, SSD, etc and has been rock solid for me on my gigabit Spectrum internet.

Would anyone be interested in buying it? I am thinking about tempting fate and getting the UDM Pro as I just upgraded to a nanoHD I'd like to get everything under a single pane of glass.

I would suggest sticking to the qotom for a while , udmpro is still flaky firmware-wise.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

BonoMan posted:

I'm up for suggestions. Been meaning to replace this thing for a while anyway. I know Ubiquiti is kind of the go to and that's what we have here at work, but what setup do folks use at home?

Ubiquiti dpi/historical data is kind of a mess. Having a USG myself, I would suggest anything but a unifi router for that purpose.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

sellouts posted:

Likely way above what the OP is talking about but maybe you'd find this useful?

https://community.ui.com/questions/...bb-d95d3896d1a1

The main problem is that the dpi categories are all messed up so a lot of stuff will end up in letsencrypt or generic https, also there is a different dpi category for each bittorrrent or emule variant rather than going by protocol. Having to set up a ELK stack to compensate for shite definitions is not the best IMHO.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Since I already have a mesh-enabled extender, should I just buy a TP-Link OneMesh router and replace my second extender, or are one of those mesh kits (Google, whatever the Amazon one is called, etc) decent?

Google mesh supports wired backhaul so, if you can, you could use your wiring to improve performance to those nodes while using wireless backhaul for areas without wiring.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

Oysters Autobio posted:

Hey all, read through the OP and did some searches online on what should be baby's first network 101, so I wanna make sure I'm understanding this correctly

Currently, I have my modem and router next to our TV in the living room, running directly to the TV for streaming, and also being the main area for WiFi. I have Ethernet running through to a another room to connect directly to my PC to the router.

We want to setup a desk where my partner can WFH in the same room as my PC on a laptop but I don't want to run another Ethernet and have to drill more holes.

Is my best option here to just get another router, run Ethernet between them, and plug in both my PC and partners laptop to this second router? Will this effect internet speed considerably (partner needs it for zoom, I need it for gaming)? Any better configurations to consider without needing to run more Ethernet cable?

You don't need a second router, you need an access point(if you want to add a laptop over wireless) or a switch(if you want to add a laptop over a wire).

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

Oysters Autobio posted:

So how would this look with a switch? Use the ethernet that's already going into the second bedroom (currently only plugged into the PC) and plug it into a switch, and then run two ethernet from the switch to the laptop and PC? Can I have two ethernet going out of the router, one into the switch (which then goes to the PC and laptop), and one ethernet going from the router into my TV?

Excuse my terrible diagrams here but I suck at this and need it in picture form.

Like here's my current setup going from living room to second room:



So, using a switch, could I have both a switch and the TV going straight into the router like this:



Would that work? The reason I need to do that is the cable for the cable modem (the unlabelled 3d blue box there) terminates where the TV and wireless router sit, so if I connected the switch to the TV I'd have to run another ethernet

Correct, it would work perfectly fine. Just remember to make sure the switch is GIGABIT to avoid slowdowns.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Hmm, is that a switch and mesh node in every room I want a mesh node in? That's not an awful idea.

Only possible problem is I'm not sure which stop # along the daisy chain my router is off. As in, I don't know the order of rooms that the incoming internet connection goes to. Or would it not matter? Wouldn't it have to be at stop #1 from the box outside to make it work?

e: Was thinking about it some more. Incoming internet goes from a box by the street to a box in my garage. I'd have to move my router (my internet doesn't need a modem, I guess it's in the box by the street or something, and is fiber to the house) to the garage at the "#1 stop", then just drop a switch/mesh node in each room I want to have wifi access. As opposed to having my router currently in the kitchen at stop #?.
Does that sound right?

Technically correct, just keep in mind that the farther you go in the chain, the less bandwidth you have, so try to keep the less used/populated areas in the tail end of that daisy chain

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

drat I am getting so loving tired of having to restore my CloudKey from backup any time I have to use it.
I mean I use it infrequently, but it is still annoying as gently caress to jump through the hoops every time I need to make a network change.

It doesn't even die in a way that lets me restore it over the network. IT's actually completely inaccessible via the network when it dies so I can't even use the web browser or SSH. The reset button on the device doesn't even work. I have to start from scratch to get it up and running and then load backups from my computer to it.

Has anyone had this sort of problem with their gen 1 cloud key or am I just special?

My gen1 ck has never had any problems, even with power failures but i think i'm an outlier given how many people laments db corruption.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017
Hello, I'd like some hints from people with knowledge in running low specs pc as opnsense.

I'm currently assessing moving from my current 1000/100 ftth line to 10000/2000 but the isp provided modem for that offering is absolute poo poo (sagemcom f@st 5688). Other common models of sfp+ or 10gbase routers sold in my area like udm pros or qnaps have a bad rep on running faster than 2.5g.

What is lowest i can go in processing power to manage 10g routing, an handful of firewall rules and port forwarding along 150mbps+ of wireguard? I would need two 10g ports, one terminated in copper (ISP ONT) and one in optical (switch uplink), so it would need at least four if not eight pcie lanes.

Any experiences?

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017
Decommissioned the last Unifi item of the house (an handful of gen3 AC units) and replaced them with a single Zyxel NWA130BE. Everything is now stable without roaming hiccups, even if speeds are sacrificed a bit in the most remote corners of the house (going at 250mbps on a 2x2 AC device). Still good given that if I ran a single gen 3 AP in the same point, clients would flat out drop out of 5ghz in the remote areas. 2x2 AC clients are now flying at full speed (500+) instead of puttering at 400mbps on the old Unifi kit, which always made me kinda angry given that I've never saw speeds close to the a reasonable AC baseline regardless of the 4x4 MIMO radio on the access points. 2x2 AX clients are going at 700+ so super happy about the upgrade and I'm now ready for 6ghz and BE clients too.

I am waiting for a XMG105HP to be ran as a ghetto 10g to four 2.5g fan out to provide full speed uplink to the AP, it was cheaper to buy than a 2.5g AT injector plus copper SFP+ combo surprisingly.

Nebula management is nice (albeit with a far shittier mobile app than Unifi) but it can get expensive once you start adding devices under the paid plans. 20€/year for each device to add weekly data retention, email warnings, topology (but, given how badly it worked with Unifi, I honestly have stopped caring for knowing where the devices are connected) and other ancillaries. Free service with 24h retention is more than adequate for home usage.

I dropped out of the 10g wan service idea, too much kit to buy and unknowns. If I upgrade, I will go for 2.5g service so I will just buy a double 2.5g NIC equipped NUC and call it a day.

SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 09:54 on May 5, 2024

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SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017

redreader posted:

I have an orbi that I don't use the satellites of. It's three years old.

I have a Comcast cable modem and my orbi is connected to it and then devices connect to the orbi via a couple of switches or WiFi.

My orbi is dropping WiFi and Ethernet connections regularly, says it's never got any connection issues with the Internet, but it regularly stops working, at which point I have to factory reset it.

Currently some wired devices are working, some are not but the WiFi works.

I'm sick of this poo poo and just want the currently available everyone-loves-it WiFi/Ethernet router that is not an orbi. Please tell me what to buy.

Also what are reliable consumer gigabit switches? I don't trust my switches either and want to start from scratch.

If you have issues with orbi but want a similar format you could try eero or tplink deco. Otherwise you could try tplink omada, ubiquiti unifi or zyxel nebula.

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