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Lolcano Eruption posted:What the gently caress are these things? Are they just a bundle of a consumer wireless router + range extenders? How is this better than Ubiqiti's wireless uplink? Generally speaking: "wireless uplink" means the AP has 2 radios (2.4G + 5G) and you talk to the AP at 2.4G, and it then repeats that via the 5G frequency. This allows you to get the most speed on your connection since they don't interfere with each other. Range extenders have 1 radio (2.4G) which literally just takes your packets and repeats it back out to the next AP. But that comes with a speed/bandwidth hit since you can't do TX/RX at the same time. Beam forming/directional antennas/etc improve things greatly - which is really the big thing by adding in MIMO generation gear.
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Jul 22, 2016 16:23
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tinaun posted:So recently we moved to a new place, and the wiring already in place is weird and old and the most complicated i have ever worked with. the one circled in green is the one hooked up, the only one that actually works. the router is connected at the other side, which leads to a relatively central location and works well enough, but there are plenty of rooms where the wifi is crappy and i would love to use a direct line. Well, that cable connection is screwed by putting 2 connections down a single wire. (blue pair is put to a different jack for telco use). Unhook that and punch it back (with the brown) to the main connection and fix the other side (in your room). The rest of the panel looks generally okay for 100mbps (gig will be sketchy since it's cat5, not cat5e). Just put a small switch beside your panel there and patch the various rooms into that.
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Aug 30, 2016 18:44
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Go whole hog and get the wallplate wifi AP/switch combos and power with a small poe switch. No cables to be seen anywhere and powered from a single UPS!
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Aug 30, 2016 18:59
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It's ancient. Go buy an Archer C7 as the range is a lot better with it's beam forming and stuff due to AC technology. Otherwise relocate your AP closer to the shed and cross your fingers. There's no miracles at the under $200 range.
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Oct 4, 2016 20:58
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You should be able to log into your Verizon router and be able to put it in "bridge mode" (which disables the wifi + routing) and then plug the C7 wan port into it. You need to keep the Verizon box as it handles the cable termination. Edit: http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r17679150-How-to-make-ActionTec-MI424-WR-a-network-bridge
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Oct 4, 2016 21:43
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There is beam-forming, which is a method of making the wifi signal a bit directional so your connection is stronger. (you want this) There's also a feature that will auto log off your device from rogue/unknown AP's - for a better explanation google Meraki Air Marshal. (cisco etc have equivalent, I just forgot it's name). Pretty nasty feature that shouldn't really be enabled.
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Feb 26, 2017 08:53
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Wacky Delly posted:Is the power injector that comes with the Ubiquiti Unifi AC Lite enough to power it and the edgerouter x? Just watch out that if you're looking at the ac pro version of the wifi units don't run 24v passive poe, but 48v! R.
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May 13, 2017 16:13
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snuff posted:Sorry if this is the wrong thread. Don't. Just don't. I've done this stuff for a living. Don't do it. Here's where you're going to fail hard - it's not anything physical - it'll be piracy. Using a commercial connection - your complex ownership is now guaranteeing that all it's tenants/users will not download the latest film, do childporn, all that crap. If just one person does it enough, your building connection gets cut off, and the remainder of the contract generally has to get paid out - usually immediately. Is the apartment complex willing to handle that financial risk? Probably not. (In a commercial environment, IT guy finds the culprit and they're [eventually] fired - you don't have that leverage in your setting). It'll be great when it works, but when it breaks (and it'll break in ways you don't like/want/know) you're going to go through hell. And it'll be at the worst time too since you're residential. You're going to start dealing with Bob having a cranky day and wanting to play the latest game and his ping times are 10% above what he wants (even though the server is in outer slobania on an isdn connection) and he'll be calling you at 10pm on a Friday when you want to go out with your friends or whatever and ranting for an hour about how the internet sucks and you need to fix it now. You'll spend 2 hours only to learn there's nothing wrong on your side of things. But now your night is finished. There's cheap technical solutions to what you want to do, but the biggest cost center isn't technical (hasn't been for a while) - it's everything else.
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Jun 23, 2017 15:21
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Omne posted:http://imgur.com/a/bwGZe First image - the people didn't get a patch panel installed, so the cable installer is only patching the middle pair (of the 4pair in a cable) together. Only good for phone lines (POTS) setup. 2nd image: Cable installer is using an active splitter (one of those coaxs go to a wall plug somewhere) and left the passive one attached to the ceiling. Solution: Install a patch panel for the 1st image and then do a switch for your computers. 2nd image: It's installed correctly - the active splitter gives your cable boxes more signal (aka: more speed for modem). The best is to make sure your cable modem is on the port with "-4db" (the one with nothing plugged into it).
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Jun 28, 2017 17:53
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Omne posted:As far as the other blank wall plates and what's behind them: Very strange. Just a red wire, black wire and stringy thing in a grey sheeting. No voltage, 12" of wire inside the boxes. That most likely what's called "Alarm cable". Designed for low voltage (non-data/non-voice) usages. Think of things like door sensors/etc which go back to a central alarm panel. Basically they close (or open) the loop (+ -> -) when a condition is met (eg: door open or closed). No cross talk issues to worry about, so the cables aren't even twisted pair usually. Provided they're not like stapled to studs, you could use them as draw strings to pull ethernet cable.  For your ethernet usage, just grab a pile of those toolless keystone jacks (don't bother with shielded). They work well for a single install and follow the colour map on them. Protip: Wondering whether to use 568A or B mapping? Check the cable - it's printed on there. So here's what you need: Rooms: Keystone wall plates: https://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=105&cp_id=10517 Cable (2x = each end): Keystone jacks: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10513&cs_id=1051301&p_id=310&seq=1&format=2 Panel: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10516&cs_id=1051603&p_id=7260&seq=1&format=2 and wallmount: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10516&cs_id=1051602&p_id=8623&seq=1&format=2 Don't forget the short patch cables: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10208&cs_id=1020802&p_id=11328&seq=1&format=2
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Jul 4, 2017 19:18
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http://www.jetwaycomputer.com/NF592.html Looks to be 8 full ports - 8 * Intel Gigabit LAN (7 * i211-AT, 1 * i219-LM supporting iAMT 11.0 & vPRO) Good for a nice little home router/firewall box.
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Jul 13, 2017 20:02
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TF2 HAT MINING RIG posted:For a follow up question: ISPs recommend keeping the cable from the phone outlet to the router less than 3 meters, but due to wifi range issues this will require having the phone outlet relocated I'll answer this old question - the reason the phone companies say "less than 3 meters" is because people use cheap phone cables that aren't twisted pair (ie: flat) so it loses the ability to deal with cross talk issues which wasn't really a problem "back in the day" when it was grandma on the phone, but is a problem doing digital signalling.
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Sep 29, 2017 16:37
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Thermopyle posted:Right, but I'm wondering more about the network side of things. Ultimately you're going to need a firewall* per device, but that's pretty extreme right now. * - firewall being something that validates what the device is doing. Ie: allowed to access port 443/tcp to the internet for updates, and 80+443/tcp from (but not to) users, and not allowed to access (or be accessed by) anything else. The way people are doing it now is creating a vlan on their network for IoT devices and then a firewall that routes between that and the human using vlan (and filters at that point - note that still allows unencumbered access between IoT devices). Of course, many IoT devices are designed so that you can't do that since your cellphone needs to be on the same network as your lightbulbs/fishtank device so it can communicate using some horribly insecure application on random ports so the only security choice is "all or none". So basically you're screwed.
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Oct 11, 2017 18:50
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Ihmemies posted:My only hope is to trust Philips and Google to not screw up their hue/chromecast products :/ Yup - and trust they'll update the software remotely/quickly when they do screw up. And that microsegmentaton link was exactly what I described earlier (put your iot stuff on a different network). But as I said, if the IoT needs to update your phone app and assumes the phone is on the local network, it'll fail as it's not on the same network.
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Oct 13, 2017 18:08
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Twerk from Home posted:What's a good transmit power to set a secondary WAP that I only want devices in one room to connect to? 40? 30? Thanks for all the free help you guys have been giving me. Since no one else answered: "it depends". In reality, you should keep it at the default (and save your money that you'll spend on aspirin/booze), and as long as it's on a different frequency, you'll be fine - your gear will use the closest AP (strongest signal) to them* But if you're really trying to tweak your wifi settings so you have tweak both APs so that the remote/far AP isn't stronger that the local/near AP. You do that by measuring the signal level on your device (ie: phone - get a wifi scanner app) for both APs and start lowering each side until you've got a mutual signal level on both APs that works for your site. *- the user device has final say in which AP they associate, so might stay associated with a slightly weaker signal if that's what they were initially connected to. (sometimes called roaming aggressiveness).
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Jan 24, 2018 19:41
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Bad Munki posted:Does this all still jive to those of you that know their products? I found a table in the unifi AC datasheet that lists switch compatibility and the devices in that chart are all listed as compatible with the (150W) switch in question, so unless there's something I'm missing, this should work. Won't work for the shop exterior. The UAP-AC-IW provides 48v passive poe outbound. UAP-AC-M needs 24v passive inbound or 802.3af poe. Couple of notes: - The UAP-AC-IW isn't as good an AP as you'd think by specs. It's not 1-to-1 replaceable with the standard ceiling APs. Ie: you're installing an AP in a suboptimal spot (low down near floor), and then surrounding it with a building materials (ie: the wall you're installing it in and maybe even the metal gang box). Look at doing the ceiling mounts. Life will be much better. - usually a bad idea to try and run copper ethernet between buildings, especially poe (ground loops and all that - as well as I'm guessing you're not using exterior rated ethernet cabling). But in your case, I'd just install a small poe switch in the shop to terminate the ethernet from the house and feed all the local devices from that. - why run a single mesh device? Just use another generic AP. Reduce your complexity. - Edgerouter is an okay firewall, IMHO, replace it with the USG. I seriously doubt you're doing anything too special that requires funky work if you're contemplating using the supplied dsl modem/router. Get the combined management interface advantage, it'll save you time and effort in the future when debugging. Edit: Also, you can use something like this: Netgear GS105PE - 1x 802.3at poe in, 2x 802.3af out/passthrough unknown fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Feb 5, 2018 |
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Feb 5, 2018 18:21
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Feenix posted:Wait... hang on. I was considering mesh. We do a lot of Netflix, Plex from my Mac to Apple TV and online poo poo with PS4 and Nintendo switch. (Good) mesh is all about taking your signal on 2.4g and then retransmitting it on the 5g network back to your central AP that has a wired uplink. So the above scenario is good when the following is true: - 2.4g network is fine and doesn't have any contention (sucks in a bad/dense area) - your mesh AP actually has two radios in it (1 downlink to you, 1 uplink to the hub AP). - 5g network is free of obstacles so you can get the necessary range to backhaul it. All the mesh AP are software based, so are slower than a wired switch, so don't expect to be real time (ie VoIP quality) across it.
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Feb 7, 2018 05:16
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CrazyLittle posted:There's an adapter for this purpose, from 48v 802.3af PoE to 24v passive PoE: Still won't work. He needs a passive 48v to 24v converter. No 802.3af signalling from the IW device. quote:I have the 8 port one of these, Netgear GS108PE. Not happy with the configuration interface and had a bunch of quirks when I tried to power it with PoE, but it's what I was able to get same-day when my old dumbswitch died. If you're going with the UniFi ecosystem it makes sense to get the UniFi US-8 which is also PoE powered + PoE pass-thru Oh, didn't realize that the US 8 was poe-pd as well. Yeah, that would be a better choice.
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Feb 7, 2018 05:26
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Seconding a VDSL2 bridge in the that price/performance category. But note that the distances listed are for good quality cabling (ie: indoor), so don't be surprised if it's only in the 50/50mbps speed for that 1500ft/500m range.
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Apr 16, 2018 21:51
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grounding loops are basically fiction in normal setups. running cable between buildings? yeah, there's a chance. running shielded cable? yeah, there's probably a chance (because it was setup wrong).
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Jul 19, 2018 23:50
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teagone posted:I installed a TP-Link EAP225v3 in my parents' house this past weekend (https://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-4908_EAP225.html) and right now I have it set where the 2.4 and 5GHz bands have separate SSIDs. Should I change it so both bands have the same SSID and enable band steering instead? Yes.
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Nov 27, 2018 00:13
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If your signal is good in those areas, then don't worry about additional APs and doing mesh. Your signal on the clients (phones/computers) will look better, but your bandwidth will generally won't improve. Mesh is almost always a stopgap/jury rigged solution in the end.
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Nov 27, 2018 01:35
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That's DNS (in whatever format). I don't know PiHole specifically, but you might be able to add a host record. Edit: quick google shows "pihole -a hostrecord home.domain.com 192.168.1.1". So do that for "bar" and it's ip address.
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Dec 20, 2018 22:17
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To expand on what Valen said - technically the 5G wifi can go to 1.3+Gbps, so they need more that 1 uplink port to support that (via aggregation).
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Feb 6, 2019 16:08
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SlowBloke posted:Wireless is half duplex so you need to divide the speed in two, making a 1733 ac link effectively 866, so a 4x4 VHT80 wireless ap traffic can possibly fit onto a single wired gigabit link. The LACP feature on HD/SHD is not that useful as there is not enough bandwidth usage to justify it(at least without VHT160) and the controller seems to have visualization issues with trunks(my LACP linked SHD is shown somedays as one device, other as two). Not quite divide by two (it can be 60/40, 80/20, etc) - but that being said, that's lab level speeds, and in the real world no one would see it. But as was mentioned by a different vendor: "someone would sue us if we advertised/sold wifi that can [theoretically] do more than 1G, but can't because it's only got a 1G port." No mention on issues with lacp balancing hashes, but legal was happy. This is also why a few vendors are starting to push 2.5Gbps ethernet ports for APs.
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Feb 7, 2019 19:59
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The Scientist posted:I have no idea where I would ask this. Is there such thing as a "Telecommunications" megathread? Make a new thread. Not everything needs to be in an existing megathread.
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Apr 14, 2019 23:19
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Thanks Ants posted:Has anybody with pfSense experience got any idea why making a VPN tunnel to a certain endpoint means I can no longer hit the public IP of the pfSense box from that location? It's your ruleset - most likely the order isn't correct. https://docs.netgate.com/pfsense/en/latest/firewall/firewall-rule-processing-order.html
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Oct 10, 2019 16:16
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Charles posted:Any recommendations on a tone and probe kit? I used search but might have missed something. Buy what's cheap unless you're doing this for a living and need the safe from dropping damage type. The cable tester portion is rarely used since it can't really validate the cable itself, it just does continuity tests, which if you can tone and probe the line, it's working anyways. Amazon has a bunch for like $25. With that $80 savings, get something like: coax cable signal meter to validate the cable tv signal throughout the house so you can figure out why the pvr and internet is making GBS threads a brick and not giving you maximum speeds!
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Nov 21, 2019 02:52
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Single mode is future proof, but if it's not preterminated, it's a pain to do properly. (assuming he doesn't have a splice kit - and if he did why is he posting the question?)
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Nov 27, 2019 14:26
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KingKapalone posted:This would be fine for a LAN party right? https://www.microcenter.com/product/617283/tenda-teg1016d-16-port-unmanaged-gigabit-switch Yes, it's a standard cheap switch (ie: the same as everything else).
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Feb 11, 2020 21:17
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Yeah, just run a new Ethernet cable, or something like this - https://www.primuscable.com/collections/bundled-cable
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Nov 24, 2020 04:28
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Penpal posted:How do I solve what seems to be bad peering from my server to the clients? Server ISP is Bell with fibre gig up, and I (client) have Rogers gig down. Everything is wired. Server is gigabit wired directly to Home Hub 3000 modem/router, clients are all wired to Asus RT-AX58U with gigabit. You're basically screwed. Bell and Rogers are direct competitors, so they have no real love of each other. Basically what means for you is that they run their peering at full capacity at times. Also, since you are in Newfoundland, all the peering happens in Toronto so data has to do the cross country trek and back again for high latency. Rogers and bell will give you the speeds that you bought on your local circuit, but does not guarantee beyond that. And unfortunately peering capacity is a business decision, not a customer satisfaction decision.
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Jan 4, 2021 03:35
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Penpal posted:What are some solutions? I am going to try and petition the condo board to switch internet providers for the entire building. H110Hawk posted:You're going to need to come up with a better story than my Hawk is on the ball - search for other providers in the city that provide their own infrastructure - of which there probably isn't anyone. If you're lucky, maybe Bell is willing to do the retrofit for fiber. As a heads up: you can find the same issue that you did before, since peering is a business decision, not a customer experience decision.. But that being said, if there's a resale available for your cable connection (eg: Teksavvy) at the speed you want, give it a try? Those generally backhaul to that provider/reseller's network so you might go through a different peering point. But you're rolling the dice - it might be better, but it might also be worse, and hopefully you're not in a new contract. Also, as someone in the biz: Bell/Rogers generally doesn't do peering - they require everyone to purchase the bandwidth from them, so no one really peers with Bell, as their pricing is horrid, so it's cheaper to go via a 3rd party.
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Jan 4, 2021 17:25
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don't work here. Otherwise you can see about commercial internet which might get you more leverage. But you would want to call a real carrier not bell or Roger's. See if there is fiber that runs through the street at your condo but otherwise just give up. Residential to residential is not what those carriers have built their networks to handle.
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Infinite cables (infinitecables.com) is a Canadian distributor/manufacturer of cabling (and supplies) and sells to end users. Based in Markham and generally ships same day by 2pm or so or pickup if you are local.
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Jan 30, 2021 03:59
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The protip on network cabling is figure out what to do with the excess cable length or have custom length made cables each time.
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Feb 16, 2021 03:50
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Installed cabling is a given (loop extra in ceiling, etc) because that's the definition of custom length. I meant cables within a rack. Almost no one keeps a complete set of different lengths in like 1ft increments. So what happens to the excess when a 10ft patch is used for a 7ft run.
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Feb 16, 2021 04:19
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Unless you are doing something really weird a vps is generally the better way to go. But that being said, with the number of used servers on the market that companies are dumping in mass quantities, you can definitely get some deals and there are a few older colos that are losing customers/gear, so are desperate to fill with anything.
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Feb 21, 2021 14:59
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fletcher posted:VPS doesn't seem as cost effective for my use. I'm looking for something with 12+ cores, 64GB RAM, 1 Gbps unmetered, and at least 16TB of storage. The storage is where it seems the VPS route becomes too expensive. I've had my current (leased) dedicated server for 6+ years (and others for the 10 years prior to this one) so I'd be willing to put in some upfront investment to plan for the future. If I buy my own hardware then I can break even after a few years (vs. my current lease) and then after that it'd be saving me some $. LOL, ok, that's not what I'd call "home networking" - so yeah, you can find a loaded off lease 2u server in amazing condition for cheap with a bit of searching and then put it in a Colo. Don't worry about hooking up idrac/ilo in the Colo unless you really expect to blow up the os regularly. For that once in a blue moon requirement get them to put a kvm on it. Look for 1/8 racks at places too, which generally give you 4u of space to play with.
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Feb 22, 2021 12:56
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skylined! posted:I want to add an outdoor AP - I still get bad wifi in my backyard because of a brick wall. Does anyone have experience with the UniFi outdoor APs? Hardware wise the outdoor AP's are the same as indoor, just have a more water resistant case. You'll want to power it via poe (switch or injector), otherwise it's hell dealing with the power plugs. The benefits of using ubnt switch is they show up in the portal with the aps. Otherwise, you can use any standard poe switch these days. (note - this doesn't apply to old unbt tech) unknown fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Mar 4, 2021 |
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Mar 4, 2021 04:34
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Biowarfare posted:What's the cheapest thing that can do BGP with about 400 peers and not be terrible at it? Was considering a mikrotik. Nooooooo. Don't go Mikrotik for serious BGP needs - it's a single threaded process, so will max out a single core (out of the 20+ available doing nothing) for like 20minutes trying to do updates and updating the RIB/FIB tables. Maybe CHR/x86 is faster, but there's some serious flaws when you go big with mikrotik. Look into Vyatta (vyos.io) and the like. Basically with that many peers (and not much packet pushing), CPU power is where it's at.
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Mar 18, 2021 19:38
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