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Thanks for the update. A small wish though, in the future when starting a new thread, could you please arrange to have it linked in the last post of the old thread before the old thread is locked?
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# ¿ Oct 11, 2011 08:35 |
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2024 02:57 |
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Ur Getting Fatter posted:Is there any way to set up the router so that it will join a wireless G network only for the purposes of acquiring an internet connection? Put the gs router in client mode and connect it to your dual band router. Bridge the gs wireless interface with the Ethernet interfaces. Disable the DHCP server on the gs. How to do so is an exercise left to the reader. Good luck!
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2012 05:37 |
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Mutar posted:EDIT: According to Lenovo I have the only version of the driver for wireless adapter. poo poo. Now what? One trick that sometimes works is looking up the OEM of the wireless chip. You can often find reference drivers from the OEM long after the "name brand" company puts the product into end of life.
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# ¿ Nov 23, 2012 20:27 |
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waloo posted:Background for me: I live in China, I have a few iOS devices at home. I'm going to casually refer to all of them as an ipad. I'm not sure if this is exactly a home networking kind of question. Way simpler solution is to try the unblockus free trial for a week. If it works, pay the $5/mo to use their spoof DNS.
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# ¿ Nov 28, 2012 08:47 |
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waloo posted:That looks quite interesting. I'll definitely be giving them a try but am not really clear on what makes them less vulnerable to DNS interception than anybody else. If you do end up trying the trial, please post if it works or not. I'm curious to know.
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# ¿ Nov 28, 2012 20:21 |
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Devian666 posted:An off the shelf router is only going to cope with one IP address at a time especially when you want individual port forwarding. I'm assuming if you ISP provides a second IP that they would need to provide a second modem for this purpose. I would recommend talking to your ISP about how this would be implemented. In the 90s my cable modem would provision at least two public ips. All I had to do was plug the cable modem into a hub, and then my two computers into the hub. Each computer got a public ip. There is no technical reason two ips would need two cable modems.
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# ¿ Dec 3, 2012 22:37 |
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Binary Badger posted:If your laptop was 802.11n capable you could just create a 5 GHz network and be done with it. Is it? Not necessarily. Compatibility with the 5ghz band is not part of the 802.11n standard. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11n-2009#_ Ergo, you may have a 802.11n device that is incapable of operating on the 5ghz band.
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2012 23:05 |
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I have a $100 gift cert to future shop and want to use it to buy some sort of homeplug / powerline solution to solve a weak wireless signal from the basement to the third floor of my place. Is there anything wrong with this linksys with 4 port hub: http://m.futureshop.ca/defaultpage.aspx?lang=en#/catalog/productdetails.aspx?ajax=true&sku=10225867&lang=en-CA Speed isn't really a concern as long as I can do streaming video. I'm more worried about inter-brand operability and forward compatibility with future homeplug tech. Am I right to assume all homeplug products are brand agnostic and forward compatible, much like you can mix 100mb and 1000mb gear and still have it work at the lower speed? Is there anything better value on this page or brands or products that I should avoid? http://m.futureshop.ca/defaultpage.aspx?lang=en#/m/search_m.aspx?q=Powerline&lang=en-CA Mantle fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Dec 22, 2012 |
# ¿ Dec 22, 2012 21:04 |
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The Netgear R7000 is on sale near me and I need and upgrade from my wrt54gl. My requirements are dual band 2.4/5ghz, gigabit Ethernet, and actively supported tomato/ddwrt support. I currently do not have any ac devices and don't plan on getting any in the short term. My current internet is 25/10 and I don't anticipate getting faster than 100/100 in the short term. Is there a better value router out there that meets my requirements if the R7000 is overkill for my needs? I can get it for about $150CAD.
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# ¿ Aug 28, 2015 23:09 |
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Krailor posted:The R7000 is overkill if you don't need AC but that seems like a good CAD price for the router. Check and see if you can get any of these routers cheaper: Is the RT-AC66U just an AC version of the RT-N66U, with all the same custom firmware support? I can get the AC for about $135 and the N for about $105. Or the WDR4300 for $60. I do have a slight preference to Tomato over dd-wrt but as long as it is rock solid stable I don't reeeeeeealy care. Mantle fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Aug 29, 2015 |
# ¿ Aug 29, 2015 06:37 |
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37th Chamber posted:Unless there is something you KNOW you need Tomato/DD-WRT to do, I would suggest sticking with stock or using a fork of stock called Asuswrt-Merlin (http://asuswrt.lostrealm.ca/features), it's quite powerful out of the box, if it's not exposed in the webui you can telnet/ssh in and set nvram values by hand, AND you lose hardware acceleration on Tomato/DD-WRT (they refuse to include the closed source binary drivers to do so) I ended up taking a combination of this advice and the advice to get the RT-N66U since it was cheaper than the R7000 by about $50, and installed the Merlin firmware. It pretty much resolved the wireless problems I expected it to. Hopefully this one will last as long as my WRT54GL did.
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# ¿ Aug 31, 2015 06:06 |
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AppleCider posted:Anyone have experience with Monoprice powerline adapters? The 1Gbps version is about $33 with coupon. Hmmmmm I'd like to know too. I assume these will work with my existing powerline devices at the lowest common speed?
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2015 19:50 |
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37th Chamber posted:VPN clients on Asus devices (and most home routers) are for the whole network, and not one specific device. They're also grossly under-powered to do tunneling like that at decent speeds, with a PPPoE connection I'm lucky to get 10-15Mbps on my 25Mbps connection. Sweet thanks! You reminded me that I could do this now that I have a proper routing device =)
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2015 06:57 |
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pmchem posted:I need to replace an old home PC/wireless router. I want the new one to be 802.11ac, have gig-ethernet jacks in the rear to plug in a PC, and plenty of wifi signal strength for business work and streaming Netflix halfway across the house. ISP is Comcast (bleh) with a SB6141 modem, for now. I was considering the same hardware as you and went with the rtn66u as it had the widest firmware support, working with Merlin, ddwrt, and tomato.
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# ¿ Sep 19, 2015 02:00 |
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Karthe posted:I'm in the market for a new router but I'm in an uncommon position of using a Unifi WAP to handle wireless duty. If I'm not interested in a router for its wireless capabilities, will any router work? Is there something else I should take in consideration when shopping around (aside from gigabit ports, USB, etc...)? Is it worth looking at routers that DON'T have wireless? What do you actually want your router to be capable of doing?
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# ¿ Oct 2, 2015 17:08 |
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2024 02:57 |
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The Gunslinger posted:My girlfriend and I are moving in together, we have a rental home which is nice but has no real cat5 wiring. The only cable drop is in the living room, the office will be upstairs one floor and will probably house my NAS and gaming PC. In the past I've always hardwired our NAS but I'm thinking about trying wireless this time since there will be minimal interference. I would normally just wire this up but its a rental and the landlord is anal retentive so we're worried about losing our security deposit. I would try powerline Ethernet for the NAS first.
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# ¿ Oct 15, 2015 01:03 |