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clutchpuck posted:I'm on a sprint toward 50,000mi with the Buell and am definitely using more oil than I did at the beginning of the year, so this winter might be the right time to do a top-end refresh. That will give me an opportunity to add a bung to the front header while it's off, so I can datalog individual cylinders and dial the tune in even better. I've heard nothing but good things about Hammer but haven't dealt with them. I did do the 1250 kit from NRHS and have nothing but great things to say about them. From what I've read on xlforum.net forums, both outfits are top notch. Hammer I know used to do the head porting for NRHS but I believe they had a bit of a falling out. I went with the 1250 kit, SE Heads which I believe are the same as your Buells and did Andrews N4 cams as well. Really made a HUGE difference in power on the bike. I know there is at least one guy on xlforum that has 50k+ on his 1250 conversion. If you search there I'm sure you can find it and there is actually a conversion forum that has a ton of 1250 conversions documented start to finish. I was like you. I wanted the performance but wanted reliability so I just kept it the standard heads with no porting and the mild cams. With my 883 gearing, it's easy to get the front end off the ground.
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Oct 3, 2012 22:16
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Great price! Congrats! Do the clutch adjustment (15 minute job) Check jets in carb and then plugs to make sure taxes are paid and it's tuned well.
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Oct 16, 2012 02:25
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Bags are so handy though. I'd get a set of easy brackets. Expensive at $125 or so but you can take the bags off/on in 2 minutes. I run them on my sporty. Get a solo seat and easy brackets and you can turn it from cruiser to around town in 5 minutes. Those bars don't look the best but they are nice if you are going to be on long trips.
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Oct 16, 2012 14:52
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I really like the riser/bar/Speedo mount from the sportster customs. They are the ones that have the Speedo mounted behind the bars. Last I checked they weren't going for that cheap though. I wanted to buy one and have them powder coated black. I have the bars that come standard on the sportster and they aren't bad. Most of the comfort on my bike comes down to the seat. I run a Mustang deluxe for long trips and it's nice. Easy brackets should work for you. My bags have the hard plastic insides and work well.
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Oct 16, 2012 18:10
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You will need the O2 sensor whether you take it off old pipes or get a new one. The 2-1 should give you noticeably more mid range torque. Basically better everywhere and equal at WOT to your current pipes. You will probably want to put new plugs in and then check them after you ride with the new pipes for a bit. You may need to change jet size or even needle type/shim level if its running rich or lean.
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Oct 25, 2012 02:08
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iwentdoodie posted:So, I test rode a Sportster 72 yesterday. The whole Harley thing I always made fun of? It makes sense now. Oh god what did I do. I haven't priced them but I'd buy one without the "stage one mods" and do it yourself afterwards. You'll most likely be money ahead and buy better aftermarket parts than they've used. Edit: checked some of the forums and 13.9 seems VERY high. Where do you live? Looked like guys were getting them stock for <10k. Scrapez fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Nov 3, 2012 |
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Nov 3, 2012 00:55
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:A few pages back I was asking questions about installing new 2-1 exhausts on my Sportster. Upon arriving home from the tourbus-infested wasteland that is Yosemite during Thanksgiving, I found several boxes awaiting my arrival: Nice job! I've changed out exhaust on my sporty a few times and it went just as you described. Lining everything up can be a bitch. It looks great and the 2 into 1 should definitely improve performance a bit. Black wheels will look great!
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Dec 2, 2012 20:24
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2500 is definitely a good price but it does have 30000 miles so it isn't completely crazy. I've seen similar bikes around here go for 3k. post some pics if you get it!
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Dec 4, 2012 20:30
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To rejet your carb, you are going to want to familiarize yourself with how to read spark plugs. They will tell you if the bike is running lean or rich. My assumption is that you are running the stock carb with stock needle, etc. What I would do in that case is try to find online someone that is running your same exhaust/air cleaner on that bike to see what size jets they are using. That will most likely save you a lot of time testing. That's not to say that all bikes are identical so you might still have to tweek some. You have a pilot jet and a main jet in your carb. You are most likely going to have to change both of these unless someone has previously rejetted the carb. A good site for jets and other carb parts is http://www.cv-performance.com/. Reading other sites about rejetting will give you more in-depth instruction but the short version is that you will check your plugs, see if they are lean or rich. Assuming they are lean, you will up the size of your jets so you are pushing more fuel to the mixture. If they are rich, you'll go to smaller jets to decrease the amount of fuel to the mixture. Once you've changed out jets and adjusted the mixture screw to get the idle correct, you'll check the plugs after riding, rinse and repeat until you get it dialed. This is a pretty blind method and the best method is taking it to someone that can dyno tune it as they can look at the actual air/fuel ratio and make adjustments. That costs more money though. If you're patient and stick with it, you can get a bike dialed in pretty close by just reading the plugs
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Jan 9, 2013 06:47
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I like the nacelle. I think if it and the fork sliders were powder coated black, it'd look awesome. Nice job!
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Feb 5, 2013 19:45
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Alternatively, you could get or make some baffles. Might quiet them slightly. Otherwise, as others have said, chug it when you are leaving/returning home. Even as a Harley rider, i was annoyed as poo poo every time my neighbor came home and revved his bike about 17 times before he shut it off. Don't be that guy.
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Mar 13, 2013 16:27
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If you want a shorter exhaust but want the torque of a 2 into 1, V&H side shots are an option. The side shots have a combined chamber between them.
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Mar 15, 2013 21:10
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Errant Gin Monks posted:I have purchased a thing. Nice bike. Really like the color scheme.
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Apr 2, 2013 04:35
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Xlforum.net has a solid mount forum fs/ft thread that is pretty decent. Might be able to find some parts there. Post a wtb reply.
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May 20, 2013 01:52
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That looks awesome. Really makes me want to put a mid-glide and 16" wheel on the front of mine.
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May 29, 2013 07:21
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ArbitraryTA posted:Heyo Harleygoons got a seating question for y'all. I'm looking to replace the pillion seat on my 2000 XLH with something a bit more comfy. I use a Mustang touring solo for my seat so I've been considering just getting one of the pillion add on seats for them but they're roundabouts 200 dollars for one of the vintage ones that'll fit my pillion. Anyone got any suggestions for a good comfy passenger seat that'll fit on a 2000-2003 Sportster? Most pillions aren't very comfy. I'd look into a touring seat if you are riding 2up. I run a Mustang Regal Duke. Found it used locally for 75 bucks. It is very comfortable.
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Jun 11, 2013 15:53
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Halo_4am posted:Slight hijack on that. Any of you shorties got a recommendation for my wife's Softail? Looking over the rider seat options there are reduced reach, lowering, and a handful of other options. Rather than a different seat. I'd probably look at lowering the suspension a couple inches. Progressive makes a drop in kit for the front for like $100 and the rear lowering would be like $50. Assuming you are doing the work yourself. This is assuming she's not riding so aggressively she needs that extra suspension travel. Errant Gin Monks posted:Alright CAHOG, time to find out what to do. My old Honda is going up for sale. When it does sell do I do the smart thing and pay off a credit card or my Sportster; or do I do the fun thing and drop a bunch of the money on a kickstart modification, new frame, springer front end and all the powder coating ever? Smart Option: Pay off whichever has the higher interest rate. Fun Option: Buy cool poo poo.
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Jun 11, 2013 21:26
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Errant Gin Monks posted:Looks good to me, are those factory forward controls or OEM? Just asking because factory ones are great, OEM not so much. Are you trying to say factory or aftermarket? Factory and OEM would be the same thing as far as I know. Bike looks pretty nice to me but I've not priced them so can't speak to that.
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Jul 31, 2013 20:14
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A Sportster was my first street bike. (I'd ridden dirt bikes as a kid) I'd say it's a fine first bike in the sense that they aren't powerful enough stock to really get out of hand. On the other hand, they are heavy and one of the hardest things when you're a new rider is low speed maneuvering. It's certainly a recipe for dropping it. I started on a 1987 883 and I certainly dropped it a couple times. Luckily just scraped mirrors and turn signals. I have a 2000 Sportster now. It started life as an 883 but I put an NRHS 1250 kit on it with heads, cams, etc. It's a really fast bike now for a Harley. Doing about 90 HP at the rear wheel. Point being that you won't necessarily grow out of the bike in the future. There are a lot of ways to make them fast for fairly cheap. I've ridden both rubbermounts and rigidmounts and couldn't really tell a difference in vibration so I wouldn't worry too much about that. In 2000, they went to the 4 piston calipers so the brakes are much better. Certainly something to consider. You should have no problem finding a very nice Sportster in the 3-4k range depending where you live. If you are considering making it a fast bike in the future, you may want to consider an 883 now. The 883 heads are desirable over the 1200 heads for their performance. Good luck!
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Aug 16, 2013 15:36
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Road the Sportster 2-Up with the wife this weekend. 400 miles over the course of two days...My butt hurts.  It was a great ride. We went from Cedar Rapids down to Columbus Junction, IA and stayed overnight there. On Sunday, we rode from Columbus Junction down to Hamilton, IL partly via the Great River Road and back. It runs right alongside the Mississippi River and is a really nice ride. Would definitely suggest it if you're somewhere close. If you do much 2-Up riding on a Sportster, do yourself a favor and put some Street Glide or Road King air shocks on the back. They make a world of difference and are cheap used. Anyhoo...who says you can't ride 2-Up on a Sporty?
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Sep 4, 2013 17:07
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There were guys doing it before Buell but Buell made it "streetable"at 100+ hp. You see a lot of 100+ hp Sportsters now with the 1250 bolt on kits.
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Nov 7, 2013 19:05
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Awesome! Please post progress pictures and an after.
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Feb 15, 2014 02:49
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Errant Gin Monks posted:I'm debating just posting in this thread or opening a project thread. I take tons of pics during builds. Either works for me but if you make a separate thread, post in here with a link.
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Feb 15, 2014 08:39
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Edit: Also this ^^^^ You're a trusting soul.Akion posted:Ah! It's my first cruiser. Used to old Honda cafe bikes and a brief stint with a KLR. Just make sure you don't lug the engine too much...keep the RPMs up. Try to vary the RPM range so don't sit at 60 on the highway for miles on end(Not sure this is possible since your gas tank will be empty before too many miles). Having said all that, in my opinion, just ride it. I'm not a big believer in "treat it like it's made of glass" for miles and miles.
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Apr 14, 2014 18:35
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If you want that similar look, I'd recommend the Vance & Hines Sideshots over the short shots. The side shots have a shared chamber and act like a 2 into 1 exhaust. They'll give way better low end torque.
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Apr 14, 2014 21:38
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clutchpuck posted:I used to have a Vulcan with mercilessly-abused pipes. PO was a short guy so he lowered the bike and as a result I had to park it to turn right and I'd still make sparks. Wow, that sucks! Bet it was a shock when it hit him in the leg on the way out, too. When I still had stock mufflers on my Sportster, I was merging into a busy highway and the rear muffler support bar broke, rear muffler fell off in traffic. Luckily a semi hit it and not a car. He spun it over to the side of the road out of traffic. I guess the lesson is, even HD OEM parts can be janky. The bike only had about 5000 miles on it at the time. I'm guessing it was just a faulty piece from the factory.
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Apr 16, 2014 02:23
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The solid mount sportsters (1986-2003,) weigh 518 pounds, fyi. With a 1250 kit, cams and head work you can get a reliable and easy 90hp/85tq. A lot more if you want it not too have quite the street manners. They aren't all extremely heavy and slow...
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Jul 2, 2014 05:18
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Nice bike. Not sure about that front fender but to each his own. I like the customs Speedo mount so much better than the standard.
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Oct 16, 2014 00:57
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...and stock black exhaust from headers back. I have one if someone needs one...
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Oct 16, 2014 05:32
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Marv Hushman posted:Lights: HD and others make a plug and play module that turns the rear signals into running and brake lights, which is probably the path of least..ahem, resistance. I ran one, but it failed after a couple years, so I winged it and went back to factory except for keeping the red lenses. Up front, honestly, I wouldn't bother. The bike just doesn't have the dimensions to take on big twin-type accessories, and when people try to turn it into something it isn't, it usually ends up looking retarded. Indeed...They won't fit a 2004+. Only the teeth chattering real men sportsters. 
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Oct 16, 2014 07:38
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Torx bit set to go with your ratchets and torque wrench. Find a Sears or Kmart that's going out of business and load up at a nice discount. Actually, go even if they aren't, because their inventory management is so terrible they're in a state of perpetual markdown anyway. These will need to go up to at least T45 for motor mounts, etc. There is a mix of Torx, Allen head, 12-pont, SAE, metric...it's all represented.
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For cheap tires, I've had great luck with Shinkos. They are a softer compound so they don't last as long as some others but they provide good grip. I believe they bought out the molds from Yokohama tires.
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Jan 11, 2015 08:10
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 I bought this thing last week. Going from a Sportster with 90+ hp to this thing that's way heavier and 65ish hp is a big adjustment. But, it is very comfortable.
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Jan 22, 2015 23:46
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OMGVBFLOL posted:
I'll most likely leave it pretty stock for awhile. It only has 18,000 miles so I'm not going to dig into the motor yet. I plan on keeping this bike for a long time so once I put a bunch of miles on it and it gets a bit tired, I'll probably convert it to a 95ci with cams and ported heads and a 2 into 1 exhaust for performance. The P.O. added that hypercharger and I'm sure didn't remap the efi afterwards. I'll most likely add some slip-ons to the bike and remap it for "stage 1" upgrades.  TANGENT RANT ALERT Why in the HELL is everything related to a Harley measured in this arbitrary measuring system of "stage." I mean I kind of...KIND OF get the stage 1 of it being like a different air cleaner and slip ons and rejetting or remapping. That almost makes sense. But then what the hell is "stage 2" cams? heads? What is "stage 3" bigger cams? ported heads? bored cylinders? "Stage 4"? Who the gently caress knows...Strap a V8 on your bike? I mean it's gotten so bad that when I was looking at batwing fairings, the company listed them in "stages." "Stage 1" was just the fairing plain. "Stage 2" was like adding custom paint "Stage 3" a radio and speakers, etc, etc.  When I have talked to a couple people about their bikes they're like "Yeah it's got stage 4 upgrades all done." and when you ask them, Oh yeah...what has it had done? "Well they made the engine bigger and did the stage 4 upgrades"  /TANGENT At some point, I'd love to get it repainted. The previous owner didn't take very good care of it so it has scratches and nicks and dings in the paint all over the place. Problem with repainting it is going to be the ability to get someone to match the paint scheme. It's one of Harley's numbered paint sets (112 of 200 woot woot lol) which means it isn't really a standard color or design. I did notice that inside the saddle bags and on the inside of the side covers are stickers which list the paint colors and the person at Harley that painted it. Might come in handy should I decide to go the repaint route but those numbers may mean nothing if the paint isn't available. I'd love to put a batwing fairing on it (Been looking at the Memphis Shades batwing) but if I do that, I'd want to match it to the paint on the rest of the bike and if I did that, I'd want to paint the whole bike. Soooo, I will probably just ride it for awhile and add minor things that make it more ridable or comfortable. I think I may steal the street glide rear shocks off my Sportster and swap them with the shocks on this. It will lower the rear an inch. The biggest thing I notice with this bike compared to my Sportster (with 883 gearing), is that at highway speed I'm at way lower RPMs. It causes the bike to be much quieter and not vibrate nearly as much which makes longer riding much better. The other thing I notice compared to the Sportster is that when I twist the throttle on the Road King, nothing happens...but then, I guess that makes this one more of a REAL Harley. Also, since this bike is purple, I guess I went from a girl's bike to another girl's bike.
Scrapez fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Jan 23, 2015 |
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Jan 23, 2015 06:37
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OMGVBFLOL posted:I think my first impulse would be to see what it looks like without the bags and windshield, but I've always liked the look of stripped Road Kings. The windshield is a quick detach and the bike definitely looks better without it. The backrest is quick detach also. I'd like to get a solo, lower profile, seat as the one on it is not very nice looking. I actually like the look of the bags and they're so convenient that it's hard to take them off. I mean, as I said, I'm an old man. When I was younger, I'd jump on my bike without having looked at the weather and bring nothing with me for extra clothes or tools. Now, I'm checking the weather, packing rain gear or warmer gear and some basic tools just in case. Having typed that out, perhaps I've lost the adventurous spirit of motorcycling over the years.
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Jan 23, 2015 18:10
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High Protein posted:What does it take to get 90hp out of a sportster? Not a lot actually other than some cash. There are two outfits selling 1250 kits that do it really well. Nrhsperformance and hammer performance. If you just bolt they're top end on you'll gain d Some decent hp. I also had Andrews N4 cams and heads from the 2004-2006 sportster on mine. Those heads had better springs in them and the chamber apparently is much better than other Sportster heads even better than the Buell Thunder storm heads that used to be considered the best. Add to that a programmable ignition and hi flow air intake and you're at around 90 hp. Put larger cams in and port the heads and a Mikuni carb and you can easily get over 100hp. Many guys on xlforum.net running 110hp Sportsters now. I don't know what kind of street manners they have, though. I went mild with mine and it has the same manners as it did before the build.
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Jan 23, 2015 21:11
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High Protein posted:Interesting, thanks. Buell XBs had the same heads as the 2004+ Sportsters and made 100HP stock, but they had hotter cams, injection, 2-1 exhausts and a much better intake tract that seems like it would be hard to replicate on a Sportster. It's too bad we probably won't see a successor to the Evo. Yeah you're right. I had forgotten they were the same heads as the Buell XBs. Basically, what you described on the XB is what guys have done with the sportster. 2-1 exhaust, hotter cams and better intake. With the Keihin CV carb, you can rejet and change up needles and get to 100 HP. Much beyond that and I think you have to go with a Mikuni HSR42. Here's a good write-up on the two as they relate to Sportster performance: http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech_mikunivscv.shtml My Sportster is now for sale if anyone is interested. http://tulsa.craigslist.org/mcy/4852466360.html Make me an offer if you're interested.
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Jan 27, 2015 03:12
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Nitrox posted:Flagged for removal Thanks for the heads up. No idea why that would be. I'll have to make a new ad. New Ad: http://tulsa.craigslist.org/mcy/4869515154.html If anyone is seriously interested, let me know. I've got some extra parts and stuff I'd throw in and would do a decent price for someone on here. Scrapez fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Jan 30, 2015 |
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Jan 30, 2015 02:32
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El Jebus posted:Do you goons (who change your own oil) buy your oil and filters from the dealer, the Harley website, or just get non Harley stuff from Amazon/motorcycle site or a local auto/cycle shop? I don't buy anything from the dealership unless I have to. It's generally of less quality for a higher cost. I buy oil and filters online.
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Feb 19, 2015 20:00
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Outside Dawg posted:With HD it comes down to lot of factors like model, year etc as to when you can avoid the dealer. Of course it depends on your local dealer, ours here is pretty drat good unlike the previous owners who were real shitlords. What do you mean by this? Which models require that you go to the dealer? I've owned a sportster and never had to go to the dealer. Now have a road king and see no reason to go to the dealer either.
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Feb 20, 2015 02:57
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Outside Dawg posted:Sportsters are pretty straight forward , had a "77 Ironhead that never saw the inside of the dealership. Sportsters also enjoy the largest aftermarket of any bike. Have an '01 Ultra Glide now and some of the electronics (EFI) are best dealt with there at the dealer, the mechanical end of it is easy. Parts wise the newer your bike the smaller the aftermarket is going to be. For the average guy maybe you take it to HD to flash the ecm with a stage 1 load if you have an efi bike. For me, I'd rather buy a power commander or equivalent tuner and flash that myself. Loads cheaper and then you have the ability to tune going forward if you change intake or exhaust or other engine mods. I'm not saying there is never a reason to step inside the dealership but if your bike is outside warranty, I don't see a lot of reasons.
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Feb 20, 2015 04:46
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