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No. If you don't notice any noise / interference now, it is unlikely that you would see a noticeable difference with any of those things. Excluding placebo, of course. If you absolutely must spend money on it, I would recommend either a dedicated sub (if you find bass lacking) or acoustic room treatments. KillHour fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Nov 30, 2015 |
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Nov 30, 2015 05:46
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Depends if the optical out is on the sound card or not.
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Feb 20, 2016 17:00
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spasticColon posted:Would these fit on a normal sized computer desk? And how good are they for gaming? 6.1" x 7.3" footprint. They'll be fine for gaming as long as you don't need surround sound or a lot of bass. Edit: The specs on the Amazon link are wrong. http://mackie.com/sites/default/files/PRODUCT%20RESOURCES/MANUALS/Owners_Manuals/CR3_4_OM.pdf Also: 
KillHour fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Mar 12, 2016 |
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Mar 12, 2016 02:27
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KozmoNaut posted:Since you don't have any of this gear yet, I would just get a decent set of passive speakers and whichever receiver tickles your fancy. It'll be significantly less complicated.
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Apr 4, 2016 17:33
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PSW10 is a very good music sub for the price. The 505 is the next direct upgrade. I have both.
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May 8, 2016 01:09
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http://camelcamelcamel.com/JBL-LSR305-Professional-Studio-Monitor/product/B00F1DEI8G Seems like a good deal.
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May 10, 2016 04:40
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AFAIK, the PSW10 is still the best in its price range.
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May 16, 2016 01:16
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Josh Lyman posted:If you want better lows, you'll probably want a 2.1 system, in which case the Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 is still among the best. Why wouldn't he keep the speakers he has and add a subwoofer?
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May 29, 2016 12:20
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Need a budget.
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Sep 27, 2016 03:43
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Is there a comparable passive speaker to the JBLs? I feel like that would fix most of your issues with them.
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Sep 28, 2016 03:15
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Get an AV receiver that can decode 5.1?
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Oct 14, 2016 20:14
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Bob NewSCART posted:My Logitech z313 cord broke and I can’t replace it because it’s hardwired into the volume controller which is hardwired into the sub. I’ve been looking at the cyber acoustics 3602 . I use these speakers in a pool house(no risk of them getting wet though) so they need to have a replaceable aux cord in case it gets stepped on or something like that. Budget is like probably 80 max? Find some cheap PA speakers on Craigslist.
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Mar 31, 2018 07:50
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:So I ended up getting a set of speakers with an Optical In port, so I can plug that into my soundcards optical port, and leave my headphone base-station in the RCA jacks. It's possible whatever software you're using hasn't changed over to the other output. Some have to be restarted to respect the new default, others don't. You can check with the volume mixer.
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May 8, 2019 07:06
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Bass is directly correlated with speaker size. You really can't have it both ways.
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May 8, 2019 16:01
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These are the standard for an "entry level" desktop speaker set: https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-A2-Powered-Speaker-System/dp/B00DQMJE7E A sub could be added to these if needed. The only cylindrical speaker from a well-known audio manufacturer with a 3.5mm input I can think of is the B&O M3. https://www.bang-olufsen.com/en/speakers/beoplay-m3?variant=beoplay-m3-natural-us
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May 8, 2019 16:40
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I personally think they're ugly as sin, but I had a friend who had them back in the day and they're aight sounding.
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May 9, 2019 16:51
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Try setting the input sensitivity to -10 instead of +4.
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Jun 7, 2019 20:52
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Flipperwaldt posted:Well, see if it persists if you unplug the cables from the speakers. I assume they did that. But if they just disconnected it from the PC, yeah try that.
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Jun 7, 2019 23:10
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That's weird as hell. The only things I can think of are a manufacturing defect or REALLY noisy power.
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Jun 8, 2019 05:03
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Go for a hardware solution. It's just so much easier. A MiniDSP 2x4 would probably be ideal.
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Jun 19, 2019 20:11
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Honest Thief posted:hmm so they're supposed to sound like that then and if I want something better that's the next tier? What is your actual budget here?
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Jul 14, 2019 01:26
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no pubes yet sorry posted:Check out this document: Receivers like that are meant to be configured via OSD on a TV hooked up to the HDMI port. You could hook a monitor up temporarily to do the setup and configure what speakers you actually have. Alternatively, I like accessories 4 less for buying stuff like this because you get a HUGE discount for buying refurbished. Most of their 2 channel receivers are out of stock, but this one has everything and the kitchen sink, and it's pretty compact: https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/marmcr611/marantz-m-cr611-networking-cd-receiver/1.html
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May 14, 2020 07:38
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The PSW 10 is about as small as you can go and still have decent low end. I use mine as a foot rest under my desk. Maybe do that.
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May 18, 2020 17:01
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japtor posted:Yeah sound wise that's fine, I had it set pretty low iirc, but I can't exactly turn down the size of the box. Hell visualizing it under my desk it looks like it'd take a big rear end chunk of the available space so that's not super viable either. SVS has the solution for you. https://www.svsound.com/products/pc-2000-pro
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May 18, 2020 23:47
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ddogflex posted:I don't think anything decent is going to be USB powered. Is a power cable that big of a problem? There is totally going to be a market for usb-c powered speakers. Just need someone to make and market them. Edit: Morons would hook them up to their phones and drain the battery in 3.1 seconds though.
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May 20, 2020 04:58
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H110Hawk posted:USB-c would actually solve a problem. I'm out of ports on the nuc already. AFAIK, it doesn't exist. I was just musing that it would work in theory if it did.
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May 20, 2020 08:56
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Said theoretical product would probably also support Bluetooth and use the USB c port to charge.
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May 20, 2020 16:36
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Ok Comboomer posted:I would argue that they’re extremely large, like most real monitors are, by the standards of most normal people looking to pair some speakers with their computer. They’re significantly larger than something like the A5+. Just eyeballing, I could probably fit eight A2 speakers in the same volume as one 305. It's always amused me that there are basically two completely different markets for audio equipment. There's the mass market stuff everyone is familiar with where the standard is "makes sound of some kind" and "looks trendy and/or is as small as possible" and there's the stuff that actually works worth a drat. Like, who the gently caress turns on one of those tiny portable Bluetooth speakers and thinks "This sounds so good! It's just like I'm at a concert!" No, motherfucker, it's not. I can't think of anything else it compares to. It's like if there was "food" that kept you alive but was basically colorful cardboard and food that actually tasted like something, but only enthusiasts and nerds cared about the difference. Anything smaller than a 6" driver needs a sub for most music. And even then, a sub would help unless you exclusively listen to string and woodwind instrumentals. KillHour fucked around with this message at 09:12 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 23, 2020 09:09
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powderific posted:I am honestly really impressed with how good a job some of the small Bluetooth speakers with their tiny little drivers and a ton of DSP. For a lot of people it’s more, “this sounds better than my laptop/phone speakers and I can play it loud enough to actually hear things” rather than thinking it’s the best thing in the whole world, total concert fidelity. Sound quality just falls lower in the space/hassle/cost/look scale. Most people don't eat exclusively lovely fo... Actually you may have a point there.
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May 23, 2020 16:02
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I have packing foam under my subwoofer. It doesn't matter what you use as long as it's soft and won't rattle.
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May 25, 2020 08:51
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Taima posted:Oh weird I'm probably showing my naivete here, and I do use and believe in speaker isolation pads, but we've never isolated our subwoofers. Does that depend on if you have certain kinds of flooring? I don't notice any issues in the same way that I do notice, like, a rattling speaker on a desk. The sub is directly under my desk. It stopped the stuff on my desk from rattling.
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May 27, 2020 19:18
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actionjackson posted:I have a pair of KRK Rokit 5 Monitors and a focusrite audio interface. But I do a lot more listening to music than producing...well much of anything. So the bass is really too low for listening, even on the highest bass setting (I have it only +2 LF level adjust and -2 HF level adjust). Is it best to just add a subwoofer? If so any specific type/brand? I have both my computer and turntable connected to them, and a JDS labs headphone thing to control volume on both. The answer is always a subwoofer. What is your budget? Monitors are generally for near-field (close) listening, like at a desk. They're called that because sound engineers "monitor" the audio from a control room.
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Jun 6, 2020 21:04
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Monitors are generally used for professional production and so tend to have features and qualities useful for that market. But they don't have to be. As far as "amount" of bass, the Rokits are pretty bassy, probably more than something more neutral like a Yamaha, but they still won't hit the really low notes because a 5" driver is limited by physics. Making the bass louder isn't going to help you here - you need a bigger physical speaker to reproduce those. As far as brands, the Polk stuff (PSW10 and PSW505) are decent and cheap. SVS stuff is expensive, but top of the line. Klipsch and Elac are middle of the road for both price and sound. Here's a good review: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-cG6IrmcPHPS/learn/best-powered-subwoofers.html KillHour fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Jun 6, 2020 |
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Jun 6, 2020 21:28
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actionjackson posted:OK thanks. What does the high and low frequency adjustment do then? It acts as a simple equalizer, allowing you to boost or attenuate those frequencies, but it won't affect frequencies the speaker is physically incapable of reproducing.
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Jun 6, 2020 22:35
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actionjackson posted:Is it similar to how the filter on a synth works? It just boosts or cuts the signal on a given range of frequencies. It's literally the same as a bass/treble knob on an old boom box.  Feel free to play with it, but you'll probably get clipping if you put it in the >0dB range because most music is mastered to be as loud as possible.
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Jun 6, 2020 23:57
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Bust Rodd posted:
That looks like it has an 8" driver. Anything that size won't give you great bass no matter how much you spend. Polk PSW505 is pretty much the absolute floor as far as anything decent goes (and it is decent, to be sure), but you have to wait for them to go on-sale for <$200 to be really worth it. https://camelcamelcamel.com/product/B000092TT0?context=search SVS are the gold standard and they have tube subs to help with the floorspace issue, but  https://www.svsound.com/products/pc-2000-pro In general, you don't want to buy packaged speakers and subs, no.
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Jul 19, 2020 20:07
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Josh Lyman posted:I agree that 8” woofers are a bit of a waste but SVS, REL, RSL, and Hsu make 10” woofers that are more than enough for an apartment living room. The SVS 10" box takes up more floor space than the 12" tube, I think. KillHour fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Jul 20, 2020 |
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Jul 20, 2020 04:07
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Change it in your Windows settings? If your motherboard has outputs for 5.1 but they aren't being used, your game might see that and try to automatically select for you.
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Jul 20, 2020 22:41
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Diminishing returns start at 10" and hit hard at 8". You can make an okay 8" sub, but they'll need to have a ton of excursion (expensive), use a lot of power to get below ~40hz and they aren't going to sound good doing it. You also really need to corner load them. I just don't think it's worth it at that point to save a tiny amount of floor space. Get a 12" tube and don't look back.
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Jul 22, 2020 16:27
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Ghost Leviathan posted:Just presume here I know literally nothing about audio equipment. A volume knob and a headphone jack are key features for me. Speakers work by moving air back and forth. The more individual molecules of air that you move at once, the louder it is. The longer you go in a single direction without turning around, the lower the frequency. Being able to move a lot of air and move in a single direction for a long time requires a larger physical thing vibrating back and forth (It's why a gong is both lower pitched and louder than a cymbal). Bigger speaker = more bass and louder. Smaller speaker = less bass and quieter. When you try to make small speakers play loud and low, you get a physical phenomenon known by the technical term "sounding like poo poo." Letting your audio equipment "sound like poo poo" for long enough causes it to "break" and "sound even more like poo poo." This is convenient, because it gives a shortcut to determining the minimum possible shittiness (MPS) of a given set of speakers: Definitely poo poo  Possibly not poo poo  Probably not poo poo  My line for "possibly not poo poo" starts at 4" drivers for satellites and 10" for a sub. KillHour fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Aug 20, 2020 |
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Aug 20, 2020 05:02
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