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MikeyTsi posted:Are those canards still on there? Yes but I could probably remove them pretty easily.
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Apr 17, 2014 23:13
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Octopus Magic posted:Yes but I could probably remove them pretty easily. Probably not a huge worry unless you think they might break (and do damage to the bumpers) during shipping.
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Apr 17, 2014 23:47
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Transmission has been shipped out to TMZ Performance out in Wisconsin for a new input shaft/first gear (going to an EVO 3 setup) and to have fifth gear looked at, not to mention a thorough cleaning of the housing. My father and I built a pretty clever support structure to keep it together rather than just padding a box walls and hoping for the best: Sorry about the instagramz.
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Apr 26, 2014 17:52
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I got around to finally drilling holes for fitment and it's about an inch too short vs the bumper's first bump (as seen below). I know my front bumper isn't the best fitting piece in the world, but I'm going to have to make another radiator support -> front bumper cover that's shorter and yanks it in more where as my old Seibon actually lined up perfectly. I'm pretty sure the hood is resting on the timing belt right now, the engine is more or less level with a transmission jack supporting it (no trans in the car right now) but not being able to run a timing belt cover with a open element hood is a recipe for disaster to me, this will more likely have to be trimmed, or I might put a washer/spacer in the hood... I'll decide once I have the trans in the car.  I'm pretty sure that the original AMB is a convex shape, like a big contact lens to allow timing belt clearance where this hood is just a flat stock hood with the vents cut out. http://www.modified.com/features/modp-1301-1995-mitsubishi-eclipse-gsx/ Note how he can fit a timing belt cover + plug cover on his hood.
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May 5, 2014 14:31
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I'd wait until you get the trans back in before you freak out too much.
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May 5, 2014 15:30
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Trans work has been slow, apparently the trans had the typical shithead DSM rebuild of soda cam shims and reused snap rings. Still waiting on parts from Mitsubishi, but I'm glad I sent it to TMZ.
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Jun 11, 2014 19:45
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Finally got a real update on the transmission:quote:The case is all fixed up with the helicoil installed, I was working on the gearset tonight and found something interesting; whoever had "built" the trans used an Evo 1 2nd gear which is slightly taller, but the tooth contact profile is no where near proper for things to work correctly. The diameter of the gear is significantly different; as in 3.84" diameter Evo 1 2nd gear vs. the 3.92" diameter DSM 2nd gear that should have been installed since the Evo 1 input shaft has a completely different 1st and 2nd profile than the Evo 3 or DSM input shafts. Did you have any weird noises in 2nd gear? The 1/2 hub and slider was totally smoked, and the 3rd/4th hub and slider had abnormal wear to the hub from oiling issues. Both hub and sliders require replacement along with the associated synchros. I am just trying to see what your experience was with the wrong 2nd gear installed. Did you want the proper DSM double synchro 2nd gear installed? Have I mentioned how much I hate DSM owners lately? (Mostly myself) I sent this in reply: quote:Wow, what a headache! Sounds like the guy who built this transmission jammed a bunch of rocks and sticks in the casing and hoped for the best. Thank you for all your updates and honesty. Octopus Magic fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Jul 2, 2014 |
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Jul 2, 2014 14:15
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What would inspire a total retard to think, hey, I can gently caress with this incredibly complicated part of the car? I wouldn't dismantle a gearbox without adult supervision, let alone jam a gear which is obviously the wrong size in just because it's from the same manufacturer.
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Jul 2, 2014 22:50
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What would inspire a total retard to think, hey, I can gently caress with this incredibly complicated part of the car? Probably read about it on DSMtuners so it's gotta be legit.
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Jul 2, 2014 23:42
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Got the bill for the transmission. Almost 2300.  What a disaster!
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Jul 7, 2014 23:20
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That could've bought three more DSMs!! I bet it'll be awesome though.
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Jul 7, 2014 23:22
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That could've bought three more DSMs!! Hopefully it'll be a drivetrain that'll last me at least a few events before having to pull it again.
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Jul 7, 2014 23:28
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Octopus Magic posted:Hopefully it'll be a drivetrain that'll last me at least a few events before having to pull it again. That is the kind of optimism that only comes from someone who has been horribly broken by the car they love.
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Jul 7, 2014 23:59
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Sounds realistic to me. I wasn't road racing mine and it was a chore just to keep it on the road.
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Jul 8, 2014 03:04
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An engine rebuild is something that is not a foreign concept to me at this point right now. 
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Jul 8, 2014 03:23
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Octopus Magic posted:An engine rebuild is something that is not a foreign concept to me at this point right now. Look on the bright side, you have a 6 bolt so at least you don't have to worry about crankwalk
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Jul 8, 2014 03:49
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HotCanadianChick posted:Look on the bright side, you have a 6 bolt so at least you don't have to worry about crankwalk It's a 7-bolt 
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Jul 8, 2014 04:05
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HotCanadianChick posted:Look on the bright side, you have a 6 bolt so at least you don't have to worry about crankwalk "lol crankwalk". Seriously, it wasn't nearly as widespread a problem as people would lead you to believe.
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Jul 8, 2014 04:06
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Octopus Magic posted:It's a 7-bolt  MikeyTsi posted:"lol crankwalk". Saving this to DSMowners.txt so I can repost it when the inevitable "...gently caress" post happens. 
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Jul 8, 2014 05:00
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It's still funny to me
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Jul 8, 2014 05:14
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HotCanadianChick posted:
My 7-bolt has almost 200,000 miles on it. If that crank was going to go for a stroll, it would've done it already. And this totally ignores the fact that every single Evo motor sold here is a 7-bolt.
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Jul 8, 2014 06:26
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It's not the number of main cap bolts that causes it, it's the under-piston oil squirter design they added to the 2G DSM engines - the oil squirters start to get stuck open after a while (they're supposed to close at lower RPM operation to keep oil pressure up), causing them to get low oil pressure at idle. Combine that with slight pressure against the crank from the throwout bearing when you have the clutch in sitting at stoplights, and after a while, it starts grinding away material because there's insufficient oil pressure to keep the crank and bearings from touching. It's also why it generally tends to happen in manuals, not autos. No idea if they revised the oil squirters for the later Evo engines, but I'd guess they might have. From what I've read, a common fix is to just weld up the bungs for the squirters and do without them - 6 bolt 4G63s don't seem particularly adversely affected by lack of them.
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Jul 8, 2014 08:11
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HotCanadianChick posted:It's not the number of main cap bolts that causes it, it's the under-piston oil squirter design they added to the 2G DSM engines - the oil squirters start to get stuck open after a while (they're supposed to close at lower RPM operation to keep oil pressure up), causing them to get low oil pressure at idle. Combine that with slight pressure against the crank from the throwout bearing when you have the clutch in sitting at stoplights, and after a while, it starts grinding away material because there's insufficient oil pressure to keep the crank and bearings from touching. It's also why it generally tends to happen in manuals, not autos. No idea if they revised the oil squirters for the later Evo engines, but I'd guess they might have. Yes, that is in fact one of the theories. Having the clutch in while sitting at stoplights is a stupid idea irrespective of whether or not it might contribute to crankwalk, DON'T DO IT.
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Jul 9, 2014 01:22
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MikeyTsi posted:Having the clutch in while sitting at stoplights is a stupid idea irrespective of whether or not it might contribute to crankwalk, DON'T DO IT. That's... the kind of urban myth I usually associate with people who think a CAI and exhaust totally adds 30hp to an NA engine, or that thinks all fuel injection is poo poo and can't hold a candle to a good carb setup, not someone like you who actually knows what they're doing W.R.T. cars.  Are you just joking and it's going over my head?
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Jul 9, 2014 09:02
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It increases wear on the throwout bearing and pressure plate, and in the event of a collision you run the risk of the car jerking in to motion if your foot slips off of the clutch (likely).
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Jul 9, 2014 09:42
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MikeyTsi posted:Having the clutch in while sitting at stoplights is a stupid idea irrespective of whether or not it might contribute to crankwalk, DON'T DO IT. This, so many times. I don't care if it's miniscule wear on the throwout bearing, or a shitload of wear. I don't sit on the clutch unless I know drat well the light is about to change. If I'm sitting at a light, the car is in neutral, my foot is off the clutch, and my other foot is on the brake. A throwout bearing is cheap, but getting to it is a massive pain in the rear end even on a RWD pickup, much less a FWD or AWD car. Plus yeah, if someone rearends you at anything more than a walking pace, your feet WILL slip off the pedals. It's better to only slip off the brake for a second, instead of also slipping off the clutch, with it in 1st gear. At least you can slam the brakes back on pretty quick, but you'll have that much more momentum to deal with if your foot has slipped off the clutch with it in gear. And if THAT happens, you're already in a panic situation, and may not figure out "WHY CAR KEEP GOING I ALREADY STANDING ON BRAKE". Even if it's tiny wear compared to not sitting on the clutch, my car WILL take off if I just dump the clutch in 1st gear at idle (at least, it'll move a few feet before stalling, best case scenario). Being DBW, the ECU tries to do everything it can to keep it from stalling. I've tried sidestepping the clutch in 1st - it hopped/tried to stall, recovered, and worked its way up to a bit over 5 mph, without touching any pedals. And this is a lovely GM econobox with a whole 140 hp and stupidly tall gearing.
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Jul 9, 2014 10:04
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It actually is a pretty common problem, seems like it is more so on small motors. Most turbo miatas disable the clutch interlock as thrust bearing wear is a problem on dry/cold startups with a heavy clutch plate.
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Jul 9, 2014 17:37
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Are the red lights in your area fairly long? It seems like it could vary a lot from place to place - neutral makes good sense in a multilane intersection with long lights, but could be a bit overkill/annoying if you're crawling through an European city centre.
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Jul 9, 2014 17:40
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Computer viking posted:Are the red lights in your area fairly long? It seems like it could vary a lot from place to place - neutral makes good sense in a multilane intersection with long lights, but could be a bit overkill/annoying if you're crawling through an European city centre. Red lights in the Seattle area tend to be only consistent in being lovely. On timers at 2-4am (so you get to sit through a whole 3-5 minute cycle), poor timing, two stoplights within the space of a block, etc. When I'm crawling, I usually just try to keep the car in gear and only put the clutch in when I'm about to get to stall rpm.
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Jul 9, 2014 18:53
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Crankwalk is the dirty secret of the 2JZ-GTE.
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Jul 9, 2014 19:23
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some texas redneck posted:This, so many times. I don't care if it's miniscule wear on the throwout bearing, or a shitload of wear. I don't sit on the clutch unless I know drat well the light is about to change. If I'm sitting at a light, the car is in neutral, my foot is off the clutch, and my other foot is on the brake. I've never replaced a throwout bearing that wasn't getting replaced the same time as a worn out clutch, and I've also never known or dealt with anyone before who didn't just hold the clutch in at lights (including myself), so...? Sure it increases wear on the bearing - the bearing is a wear item that only needs to last the life of a clutch, so if you need to replace it when the clutch finally goes, then BFD I guess? Like I said, I feel it's a wives' tale/urban myth. Something that gets repeated as 'car guy wisdom' without any real evidence to back it up. The only guy I've ever known who said you should never hold the clutch at lights is a biker who thinks the MSF teaches you totally unsafe poo poo and not how to 'really ride' and also refuses to wear gear and hates having to wear a helmet... Enough derail though. More posts about unbreaking broken DSMs. 
Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Jul 9, 2014 20:13
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Jul 9, 2014 21:11
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Why would you hold the clutch in at lights? I've never done that and I've been driving manual cars for 17 years with nothing but a less taxed left leg to show for it. In fact I've never met anyone who does hold the clutch that long. What's the point?
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Jul 9, 2014 23:48
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BoostCreep posted:Why would you hold the clutch in at lights? I've never done that and I've been driving manual cars for 17 years with nothing but a less taxed left leg to show for it. In fact I've never met anyone who does hold the clutch that long. What's the point? I think the point is we should pay more attention to the signature beneath certain person's avatars.
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Jul 10, 2014 00:44
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Updates: I busted my butt on the car from Thursday to Saturday replacing the clutch, mounting the trans, redoing vacuum lines, replacing bolts with fresh stuff, putting things back together generally pretty well.  New/used real deal Apexi GTR core FMIC. I'm going to flip one of the end tanks so I can run my SSAC piping. Much better core than the SSAC Chinese junk, should also help for cooling more, but we'll see once I mount it.  Almost too pretty to put on the car.  Clutch mounted. I had to unmount it and remove all the bolts again to make sure the clutch was in perfect alignment. It wasn't the most fun thing to do.   Mostly together.  Upskirt shot of the ducts. I'm going to have to make a bit of an airbox to keep water off the filter. Hopefully at some point I'm going to replace the whole intake tract into a real airbox setup and eliminate the giant old crusty K&N setup. I also need to trim the driver's side duct so I have more clearance for the timing belt. :\ Battery lasted all winter long and the car cranked up no problem. It's still on jackstands now as I had to play with the clutch master cylinder too much to get the clutch master shaft to pedal was over extended and I messed up the threads a little, so that was another 2 hour job of struggling under the dash to get everything off. Need to still install the aerocatches and do some minor cleanup + plug in the wideband, but otherwise things are looking pretty good for at least some street testing.
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Jul 20, 2014 23:02
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Small update: Aerocatches are really hard to install just right. I ended up missing just enough that I have to move the pins around on the front radiator support (which is the "backup plan" post cutting your hood). I also took a bit of material off one of the ducts so I would have more clearance for the timing belt. Oh well. At least it's salvageable.
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Jul 31, 2014 17:05
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Good news! I actually uh, drove the car after 8 months! The washer I had on the reverse switch wasn't thick enough, so when I was dry shifting, getting into fifth and reverse proved difficult. I put a bigger washer on and boom, they were both good. No leaks, no weird smells, gears were a little notchy until the fluid got slung around there, but after that it felt much better. I ground down the vent with a new dremel that now fits the upper timing cover. I no longer worry about rain getting all up in my timing belt! Woo hoo! I need to loop the belts better, probably tune the car, but otherwise it's ready for some inaugural 100-150 miles to see how it drives.  
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Aug 4, 2014 22:32
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Octopus Magic posted:Good news! I actually uh, drove the car after 8 months! That's got to feel good after all this time and work.
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Aug 4, 2014 22:43
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EVERYWHERE 
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You can check the oil without popping the hood! Congrats.
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Aug 5, 2014 03:34
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Car is running and driving well. Transmission is a little notchy from first to second, but I'm thinking that it's more of a break-in issue than anything else. I might play with the clutch throw a little bit, but nothing too major, feels good. I need to put some heat reflective material on the hood, all I can smell is melting fiberglass trimmings, but that'll disappear soon, hopefully. Also get a real boost T and hopefully tune the car some more, although it feels good as of right now. I registered with COM for the Thompson track day event on September 28th and 29th. Yay track time, FINALLY!
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Aug 22, 2014 17:24
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