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I own seven Crested Geckos currently, and am beginning to develop breeding goals and stock for eventual gecko BYB'ing.  Cresteds are among the easiest reptiles to keep, and I would highly recommend them for all ranges of keepers, from novice to advanced, because though their care is minimal, they're brightly colored and easily handleable, so they make a no-fuss gorgeous display animal as well as a docile pet. The best diet for them is the Repashy CGD (crested gecko diet) which you can order online, or you can pick up the T-Rex CGD from specialty pet stores. I supplement with dusted/gut-loaded crickets, dubia roaches or waxworms once or twice a week. Be careful to not dust your feeders with a supplement containing D3 calcium, as the Repashy already has a lot in it and you don't want to overload them! For housing, I keep mine in 18x24 ZooMed cubes, or in 20L tanks that I turn vertical to give them more climbing space, as they are arboreal and need height versus width or depth. A 20g is sufficient for an adult for the lifespan, babies should be housed in smaller containers like sterilite bins or a 5g or 10g, to ensure they're feeding and pooping. Heating is best provided by a UTH on the back or sides of the tank, not the bottom. Cresties can tolerate drops to 50F, so if your house stays relatively warm you may not even need a heat source! As long as they have a gradient of 60-80F, they're fine, but above 80F is dangerous. It's debated as to whether or not they require UVB; being nocturnal, they probably do not need it, and most breeders/hobbyists don't keep them on UVB and have great, healthy animals, so it's probably not necessary. Just to be on the safe side, though, I periodically take them out in the sun for a few minutes to a half hour at a time. Even if it's cloudy, the exposure to UVB is better from natural sunlight than from a strip light.  Mist them once or twice a day, and offer a water dish for in between misting. If you have a live potted plant or planted viv, your geckos will appreciate the added humidity and natural surroundings. Good, non-killable plants include pothos, dwarf ficus, birds nest fern, etc. If getting your plants from Home Depot or Lowe's, etc, be sure to wash them thoroughly before planting or putting them in the enclosure. You can also use fake plants from Micheals or etc, but personally, I think a planted or potted viv is lovely to look at, and I think it's less stressful and more healthy for the geckos to be in surroundings that mimic their natural home. I often find mine asleep in their ferns, just like they're supposed to in the wild. They will drop their tails if stressed, pulled too hard or dropped, and unlike other gecko species, the tail won't regenerate. Because most adult cresties in the wild lack tails, it's suspected that they actually evolved to drop their tails, so a tailless crestie is no less healthy than a regular one, though they are less desired and usually sell for less. Morphs vary hugely in this species and are complex and difficult to regulate. Here, have a link to a guide:http://www.forums.repashy.com/tutorials/11066-crested-gecko-morph-guide.html Some crappy iPhone pics of my collection (I'm focusing primarily on high contrast pinners and yellow phantoms or brindle):      And I'm expecting to pair my adult yellow gal with this handsome fella by the end of the month, for my first clutch!   Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Jan 18, 2012 |
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Jan 18, 2012 23:16
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OP looks great, IMO, other more complex stuff can probably be better explained with species-specific links to care guides or forums, right? Thinking of picking up a pastel BP at the expo this Saturday, since crestie pickings look to be slim. Reading through the old thread before it closed made me really miss my old SBs that I had to give up to my ex. Looking forward to hunger strikes and derpy snake nonsense!
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Jan 19, 2012 08:19
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nesbit37 posted:I would also add in a section on calcium with the lighting, as it is tied to it. Essentially, anything that gets dusted food and is diurnal should be fed calcium without vitamin D as they get the vitamin D from the lighting and too much is bad. Nocturnal herps should get the calcium with Vitamin D because they do not get the vitamin D from any lighting you provide. Vitamin D is necessary to process calcium, and if the nocturnal herps do not get any or enough they are going to get metabolic bond disease. I've been feeding Repashy Calcium plus, which I was told has enough D3 in it, and not to supplement with additional dusting. Is this true?  I'm glad you posted this, because I'm just getting ready to put trays of calcium in with my females to help them with laying, and I would be using a calcium source without D3, so if I need to be giving them it, I want to know, for sure. I have Rep-Cal with D3 for dusting if need be, I just haven't been using it because I thought I shouldn't.
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Jan 19, 2012 19:49
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Whew. I thought so, but I'm gradually realizing every time I think I've researched something enough, I haven't.  Of course, that being said, it's not stopping me from putting a deposit down on an F1 Nuu Ana leachie baby. These are the parents. Dad:  Mom:  The hatchling I'm looking at is 5.84g and has bright pink splotches.
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Jan 19, 2012 20:14
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Cassiope posted:Wow they are like little miniature Jabba the Huts... No kidding. Leachianus are burly bastards, they have a lot of excess skin that creates the impression of a lot of heft, and they are heavy animals. Those claws are razor sharp fishing hooks, too. They leave red marks on my skin just from sitting on me, and you have to push their claws forward, not back, to remove them, or they'll snag on you and give you a nasty scratch. Nail clippings are sometimes necessary, which is just hilarious because leachies are also Hutt-like in terms of their aggression. My mentor/friend's leachies are handleable, because he's had them since hatchlings and was consistent in his husbandry and handling. I'm hopeful that I can do the same, but even if I can't handle it eventually, it will remain an awesome and impressive animal to me. I've completely fallen in love with the Rhacs, and leachianus is my 'gold star' species. I love cresties, but the leachie is something else, man. Not to mention the Nuu Ana are the small ones. 
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Jan 19, 2012 21:49
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Greycious posted:This gecko is obese. That is in no way a healthy looking leachie. The parents are owned by someone other than my friend, unfortunately, or I'd speak to them about it. The baby I'm looking at is on mostly CGD, AFAIK, and I'm all about moderate feeding.
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Jan 20, 2012 03:56
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and 
leachie I've ever seen. 
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Golden-i posted:Awesome! I used to use aspen for my old bearded dragon when he was younger... when he got older I didn't want him to eat it so I switched to calcium sand, which was healthier but I was deprived of coming home to this: Cute beardie, but calcium sand isn't healthier, it's actually incredibly dangerous and should never be used, because the calcium content encourages the animal to eat the substrate, which actually causes the excess calcium/sand mix to build up in the digestive tract and cause impaction. People tell you Calci-sand is okay, even better, and they're just so wrong. BC, should we include a list of common products to avoid? I know you're probably burned out on the OP at this point, but I thought I'd make an incomplete list.  Things to Avoid: -Calci-sand (causes impactions) -Hot Rocks (causes burns) -Cheap stick on thermometers (unreliable) Etc, etc.
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Jan 20, 2012 22:51
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Golden-i posted:Man you are totally right... it was a long time ago and I was young and stupid(er). We were all young and dumb, no worries. I kept a tokay gecko in with a hot rock when I was a kid, and I've made tons of mistakes, even recently. 
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Jan 21, 2012 00:29
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^^I wrote one on the very first page.  Captain Foxy posted:I own seven Crested Geckos currently, and am beginning to develop breeding goals and stock for eventual gecko BYB'ing. Females can be housed together as long as there is 20g per gecko, males will fight. Humidity can and should drop below 50% daily, so only mist once or twice a day depending on your climate, and they can tolerate ranges from 50-80F, so they don't generally need extra heating and can live at room temps, although anything above 80 and below 50 would be bad. Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Jan 25, 2012 |
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Jan 25, 2012 16:50
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Pardalis would absolutely flip her poo poo for a siren, she's been talking about it for a while and the care level is way too easy to say no.... So I have a snake feeding question. My snake-loving- but- underinformed- roommate came to visit while I was helping vend geckos at the Portland Metro expo last month and literally the only time I turned my back to her, she bought an adult male BP from one of the shittiest vendors there, with no hatch date, cb/wc info, weight or feeding specs. They didn't even have a box or bag to put him in, and would've let her walk off with the snake on her arm if I hadn't raised a stink about legality and proper transport(!). All the guy said to us was that the snake was a male (since probed and is for sure) about four years old and only eating live. Guess what came home with us instead of the CBB f/t started baby from a good vendor that I had my eye on for her.  I don't want to feed live, and neither does the roomie, so we bought a pack of frozen large rat pups (he should be on adults, probably but I figured smaller meals will help transition better, am I right on this?) and plan to scent it using my pet rats, do a dance with tongs and feed in a dark container. How else can I encourage this fucker to eat f/t? Any tips and tricks from you fabulous BP owners? We've let him fast since the expo on the 21st, is this enough time to work up a ravenous appetite? We're planning to try him tonight, I hope he takes it with no issue. Here's a picture of the snake in question futilely trying to hide his head from an iPhone:  And his temporary basic setup in a 20L (I have a 40g for him in the works):  Temps are 70-80 cool side with uth, 80-90 under basking light. I have a moist hide for shedding, but need to actually fit it in there. For something totally different, here's my current main gecko rack:  The 55 has two adult ladies in it, the exos have one juvie each, except for the one on the end with three tiny female hatchlings, soon to be separated. I've also got a sterilite and another exo in bedroom; this hobby is all-consuming and ever-expanding. The females in the 55 are being heavily monitored for signs of nipping/stress, and so far so good; they ignore each other and stay to their own areas and feeding stations. Each are downing dubias and CGD with regularity, and their temps/humidity are consistent. I'm hoping they can stay as they are, but I'm under no illusions. If they begin to stress, I have a tank waiting and am always watching closely to be sure I don't need it. They seem to enjoy the plants and space and are out being inquisitive whenever I come by to mist, so I want to believe they're happy for now.
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Feb 4, 2012 20:05
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Thanks for the tip on the basking light, I'll prop it up so it's not directly on there. He doesn't climb much (since we've had him, he's either been in one hide or the other, lazy lump) but it's good to be safe, snakes are derp. I thaw stuff by popping it in a dish of warm water for a few minutes until it feels warm all the way through. My sand boas would take them wet, but I'll probably dry it with a paper towel for him, and do the wiggle dance with some tongs. Dead rat mamba! I'm wondering if I should just try to feed him in the tank rather than removing him; he's on paper towels and if he's going to be a problem eater he may not take it if I move him....hmmm. Also need name suggestions. So far we favor something ridiculous with the word 'snake' somewhere in it. He's currently being called The Snake Who Shall Not Be Named or Mayor McSnakely, sooo....we need something worse than that.
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Feb 4, 2012 22:36
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Braining was not something I was looking forward to, but...yeah we'll do that. Stupid roommate and her stupid non-planned snake. She also bought an '11 hatchling Mexican Black Kingsnake at the expo, but that was her planned purchase. It's eating well on pinkies like a garbage disposal, which is typical. That snake is called Captain Snakerton. So you see what I'm dealing with here.
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Feb 5, 2012 00:34
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light_urple posted:I know you don't want to feed live, but the only way I got my live-mouse obsessed 3+ year old probably WC female to eat F/T was by fasting and then feeding a live mouse immediately followed by a F/T small rat chaser. The scenting with my rats totally worked! I didn't even have to brain it, although I've done that before for my old picky KSB. I rubbed it all over their gross musky rat backs and balls and he thumped it down immediately with no issue! I wonder if the lovely vendor even fed him at all before selling him, because he was seriously hungry.  Now all we have to do is get a fecal float and upgrade him to the 40g.
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Feb 5, 2012 21:52
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hypnotoad posted:Oh...my... god. You lucky bastard Congrats! It's my own fault for not watching the site, but ohhh I wanted one! I totally get your excitement; they're just lovely little things. Ahh well. I need to focus on building racks and preparing for a leachie baby anyway, so it's probably for the best.
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Feb 6, 2012 04:06
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I woke up this morning to find out I was the first person to email about the one I wanted! I pretty much exploded with excitement. I am SO giddy to finally be able to get one of these guys! I cannot wait for shipping weather so my new little guy can get here!! I just had to share with you guys. 
I am so happy right now. Nothing has been able to ruin my day since I found out.
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How did you set up your rack, if you don't mind my asking? And what's your heat source? I want to DIY my own but I'm a little about wiring Flexwatt because I feel that I have a strong possibility of burning myself and my pets to the ground....which I would like to avoid.ETA: And clearly you need to post a thousand pictures of the agricolae baby when it arrives! Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Feb 6, 2012 |
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Feb 6, 2012 04:54
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I am steadily acquiring Sterilite bins like a madwoman. It helps to be prepared!
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Feb 12, 2012 20:30
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I handle mine whenever I go to mist, water plants, change paper towels or food cups, etc, but probably not for anything longer than a minute at a time. When I want to weigh them, or when I'm just feeling like looking at them ( ) I take them out for like 5-10 minutes, max, so it's really not much handling and they're still all very curious and confident little things. I have one or two that will 'meep' and try to hide, but I just scoop 'em up and make them deal with it, and by the time I put them back, they're fine. I have a habit now of plopping my big yellow female on my arm or chest and reading a book or watching TV with her, but she's my favorite. I have noticed they are much less likely to cooperate for handling if it's daytime or particularly bright out, though.
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Feb 12, 2012 20:48
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PetCo can be fine or extremely lovely, depending on your area/the competence of the employees and management. It's a toss up, and one usually best to avoid unless you like your odds. Most reptile people get their animals online from faunaclassifieds.com, kingsnake.com classfieds, or locally through reputable reptile specialty stores, expos or local breeders. Yes, it's totally fine and okay to ship reptiles; they arrive next day and most people here have their animals arrive alive, healthy and not bothered by being shipped. You just have to be sure the climate will allow for shipping and then you're good to go. You can get better, more impressive animals for less than retail this way, and it's pretty much how the hobby is done. Paper towels, chunks of wood and basic setups really are the most recommended. I know it's weird, but it's the easiest and most idiot proof way to ensure your animals don't eat your substrate, fall off your intricately placed furniture, or otherwise find a way to kill themselves with something they shouldn't. As you evolve and grow in the hobby, you can totally experiment with natural settings and go nuts with setups; it's what makes terrariums so fun! But for beginners and advanced keepers alike, it's best to start simple and build from there. Enjoy your geckos! Be sure you have the proper wattage of UVB for African Fat-Tails and always dust your crickets and feeder insects with calcium and 'gut load' them 24hrs prior with a specific diet, to ensure your pets don't get metabolic bone disease and stay healthy.
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Feb 18, 2012 00:36
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Yeah if he didn't come with a UVB or a UVB less than 10.0, you need to get one ASAP for his health or he will get be unable to process the calcium powder (you should be dusting his insects with this) and get metabolic bone disease. Also, it's actually very difficult to breed crickets as a successful colony. You're better off dumping 100+ in a tank for storage until feeding time. If you want a more healthy and economic feeder, you should get a colony of dubia roaches. They breed very easily, don't stink like crickets and are a better food source.
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Feb 19, 2012 18:12
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In addition to nesbit's spot on advice about choosing patterns/coloring to work with, I just want to echo that pretty much everything is already out there or has/will be popular at some point, so find what you like and focus on refining it. Making sure you have good stock to begin with and focusing your efforts on refining and/or improving your pattern of choice goes a long way towards creating a sellable or breedable animal. Also, just a personal preference, but I always go for a well-structured animal rather than a well-colored one. Snipey heads, floppy tails and etc can be worked with to be bred out or improved, but as a beginner, it's best to only work with quality for a while until you have enough experience in breeding to run some risks.
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Mar 8, 2012 20:07
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Release it back where you found it. It's not eating, probably insanely stressed, and you don't have a proper enclosure already set up. Frogs are highly sensitive, easily stressed animals, and handling, moving them around too much, improper housing, the wrong food, wrong temps, etc, can easily kill them. Northern Red Legs are also protected in Oregon, BC, Washington and California, so depending on where you found it, it's illegal to keep it anyway. I'm all for collecting non-protected species, but it should really be left to experienced herpers or experts.
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Mar 10, 2012 18:35
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What kind of supplementation? Calcium? Does it have D3? And is it just on the crickets, not mixed into the baby food itself? Definitely get that baby some Repashy ASAP. It's a thousand times easier, cheaper and more convenient than baby food anyway, and it's really the only thing, aside from supplemented insects, that they should be eating, IMO.
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Mar 11, 2012 19:03
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Tokays are definitely the next step for me in the gecko obsession. My wish list goes like this, currently: - R. Leachianus (Nuu ana) - R. Leachianus (Yate or Grande Terre) - R. chahoua - G. Gecko - E. Agricolae - S. Ciliarius ciliarius - Uroplatus sp. When and if Pardalis' Tokay pair have babies, I'd like one of theirs since they're the Tokays that got me interested in the species. I had one as a kid that was a more classic example; she was WC and lunged out of her hiding spots to bite you if you were cleaning or feeding. They really are amazing animals. The male Tokay isn't at all inclined to bite, but when they had their egg (they smashed it, next time we'll incubate for them) he was intensely protective of his female and it was the only time I've ever seen him gape at Pardalis. He also periodically will get angry and call back to you if he's in mating mode and you spend enough time going 'Uh-OW uh-OW' at him.
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Mar 12, 2012 16:48
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Fraction, I posted a brief overview on the first page, but basically you don't need a UVB light, just a heat mat, called an Under Tank Heater or UTH, and if your house is normally 60-70 degrees F, you may not even need one. Cresties are among the easiest reptiles to keep, since they eat Repashy, don't need much external heat and aren't easily stressed by handling. JB's Cresties site has an excellent caresheet, as well as the one on Pangea forums. I would totally go to the Hamm show if I were you, and I will have to go sometime anyway! It's a huge variety of reptiles, some rarer than others, and is probably the best herp show out there. There's a couple based in Rotterdam, Netherlands who breed amazing geckos; google up The Gex Files. I'd get one of their babies in a heartbeat and I'm stupidly envious because shipping to your location wouldn't be super expensive. Celery Face posted:If I waited that long, it would be more than 3 years of waiting. Waiting for a snake sounds reasonable but that is going to be a long wait... Hey, three years is nothing. You're young and you have a long long path of learning and experience ahead of you before you're really going to be aware of how to keep what you want and why certain things wouldn't work. Living at home right now you're also dependent on your parents financially, which isn't responsible ownership. What happens if a vet expense comes up and they refuse to pay for it? You have to consider all these options before bringing any animal into your home, and if I was in your position (and I have been, we all have) I'd wait until I was living on my own and could control my own environment, expenses and time. I understand the allure of animal ownership, and I had tons of pets as a kid in school, but I speak from experience: animals aren't for high school, or even college, kids. If you really want something and want to do it the right way, you can wait until you're responsibly able to do it. Its not that bad. And seriously, you will laugh at yourself for thinking of three years as a long time once you're my age. Oh man.
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Mar 13, 2012 16:58
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OneTwentySix, Pardalis and I are about to go collect some granulosa adults to keep in a paludarium, since they're insanely plentiful around our favorite fishing hollow. We had planned to wait a few more weeks for it to warm up, the breeding season will really get going by then and the nuptial pads will be obvious. Would you like some adults? I'll also keep an eye out for some wild eggs, and since we plan to grab a male and female in amplexus for the newt paradise, we may breed some of our own to send you! It'll be fun searching for newt eggs, I haven't done that since I was a kid. Rough Skins always bred for me, even though I gave them barely any care and frequently forgot about them. I'm also amazed that I somehow did not poison myself because I don't remember ever taking precautions or washing my hands. Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Mar 16, 2012 |
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Mar 16, 2012 22:51
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Got some quick shots of one of my crestie females (Carmine) all fired up this morning.  (aaagh I need to clean that glass)   She's a really lovely little thing, from Anthony Caponetto's breeding, and given to me by my mentor as a 'freebie' because she has spots. I won't breed her unless I decide to work with spots (maaaybe, depends on if something I like shows up) but she's a pretty pet animal, and when fired up, she's just beautiful. I've taken to calling her the Toad, since she grumpily and abruptly dropped her tail. Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Mar 18, 2012 |
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Mar 18, 2012 17:58
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Why yes I am going to feed this 6lb dog to that 4ft snake, thank you for asking.
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Mar 19, 2012 16:57
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Look at it's little wrinkles oh god
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Mar 20, 2012 00:22
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A THOUSAND MORE PICTURES  What's adult SVL on these guys? Some say 4", some say 5" for adult males, but I've mostly seen posts indicating the latter. Any major distinctions between them and the Eurydactylodes vieillardi? I'm beginning to see more specimens of the E. viellardi when I browse for Eurys, and I love the paler coloration. It's a long shot, I suppose, but does anyone keep or know anything about the Strophurus family of geckos? I'm interested in keeping S. ciliarius ciliarus (Northern Spiny Tailed Gecko, afaik) but I'd really rather have CBB than WC, and not many people keep them from what I see. I've seen S. elderi, which are also lovely, but I don't know if their care differs.
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Mar 22, 2012 06:30
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^^With the Panama Golden frogs? That is so awesome!hypnotoad posted:If you google "The Gex Files", Debbie has pairs of both Agricolae and Vieillardi and did side by side shots of both. The difference is pretty cool! And I promise once he settles in a little more, there will be a big ol' photoshoot. I know the Gex Files! Debbie and Leon are friends of a friend of mine, and he's stayed at their house with their hairless cats, after the Hamm show. They're mostly who I'm seeing with the E. Vieillardi, and I am seriously tempted.
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Mar 22, 2012 21:09
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Celery Face posted:Don't know the difference but I'm sure that it is a standard. You're sure you're sure? Because that's a breeder size. Google is very helpful on the difference between the two. The breeder size is better for a BD, but you'll still need to set up a baby in a smaller tank or block off access to most of the tank to be sure it can eat and bask and isn't intimidated by the space.
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Apr 5, 2012 03:27
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My girlfriend's chameleon has started to eat and drink for me, since I'm around during the day, which allows me to hand feed him and monitor his intake. Chams are very mistrustful and easily stressed into ill health, so I hadn't been trying to mess with him much, aside from the occasional misting, but he's approaching 5 years now and is officially geriatric in chameleon terms so it's become important to keep him hydrated, and my girlfriend is/was the only one he would drink openly for, so my job was just to mist consistently to keep moisture out for him to drink, should he so choose. He started seeing me coming with the sprayer and he gradually began to associate me with it but still get real pissy if I made eye contact too long or sprayed too hard. I would just avoid looking at him like he was an Arabic prince, while I misted him, until one morning I happened to glance back and catch him blissfully drinking with his eyes closed. Gradually, he would do this even if I was looking, and started to happily take food from me, which, even though he'll eat for everyone, was still a big accomplishment for me. Now he demands food whenever I happen to be nearby and is a real grumpy pig in general, but oh god the little girl in me is super excited that I made a chameleon 'friend'.
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Apr 7, 2012 21:55
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We went fishing and look what we caught!   In addition to the garter, who we released, we brought home a few rough skin newts to lay eggs for us/ be pets. This time of year, this species is almost entirely aquatic and develops smoother skin and flattened tails for better swimming. They'll breed almost all the way up to November, then crawl onto land, roughen up their skins and curl up to last out the winter. Temporary newt sex shack:  Newt ladies:   It's rape o'clock, ladies.    Also, one of my cresties was fired up the other day:   He's a really nice extreme pattern, good heavy cream and a nice head. Hope to breed from him next year!
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Apr 11, 2012 06:42
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That's a Rough Skin newt, yup. Only that one is in the terrestrial non-breeding phase. They're native here and live year round in our weather, so he can go back outside. Greycious posted:That is a very nice crestie Captain Foxy. Who are you going to pair him with? I'm raising up a hairy line Halloween Harley, but she isn't pinned and doesn't have nearly as much dorsal cream or nice portholes the way I hoped. I'm still on the market! Won't be purchasing for a while, since I want to focus on seeing what develops from what I have, but I have my wishlist.
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Apr 12, 2012 00:00
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Soarer posted:Can... but does he have to.. I've grown rather attached No, they're legal to keep as pets for personal collection, you can keep him. He'll need a 20g tank with ground and access to water, low to no filtration in the water and he'll eat just about everything; chopped up worms and crickets, frozen bloodworms, etc. No heating or lights required, they are hardy little monsters. Once he gets warmer, he'll want to spend more time in the water. If he is a she, she won't look much different but will be smoother. If he is a he, he'll grow a big fat paddle tail, get massive pads on his hands and be ready to breed 24/7 until it cools down.
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Apr 12, 2012 01:37
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I love the patterning on the pinned girl! The extreme male I posted earlier has some of the same feet splashing marks. Must resist buying more geckos.
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Apr 13, 2012 05:11
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I remember that story. I kept thinking 'Who would put a thin plastic bag with venomous animals inside over their shoulder like a god drat duffel bag' and I can't stop thinking it. Apparently that guy was the one person.
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Apr 14, 2012 08:27
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Neat! I'd like a crocodile skink, what's their care like? UVB/temp requirements? I really should just buy geckos at the next expo but I saw a few CB adults of the Red-Eye and I liked what I saw and was told.
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Apr 15, 2012 17:04
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Big Centipede posted:I have her set up according to this site: That's awesome, I've been googling 'crocodile newt care' with little to no consistent results. Am I right in seeing that a 20-30g is all they're recommending for housing? And what strength UVB are you using? It's good to see a goon with one; I've been considering them for a while but couldn't find info online or anything not WC, but at this last expo there were a decent amount and some CB. I may have to pull the trigger and get one if I see them again. The noises sound adorable!
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Apr 16, 2012 02:32
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 13:48 |
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Big Centipede posted:Crocodile newt? SKINK. Too tired, staring at newt tank while posting is not a good idea.
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Apr 16, 2012 18:09
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