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spixxor posted:I've always fed in cage and never noticed any cage aggression from any of my snakes, but then again I've had them all for years. My guys will occasionally go two or three weeks without really being handled beyond a bit of cleaning/water changes. My retic will get a little more alert around feeding day and also tends to bang around his cage as if to say "OK, I'm hungry here, feed me or no sleep for you" but that's about it. My GTP, and Bullsnake all eat in their cages, while I feed my ball python and boa in a separate dark tub. I find with the ball python, he wont have as strong a feeding response in his cage, but once in the dark blue death box he goes right into strike position. He once shot out at my face when I dropped a thawed rat and leaned over to pick it up with my forceps. My boa is kinda dumb and wont even eat in her cage. She needs a thawed rat played with, and smushed against her face, and it's easier to do that outside the tank. My GTP will try to kill anything that moves (she's an awesome feeder), but the bull snake has a PVC tube in her enclosure that I dangle food in front of, which she grabs and then drags into her tube for a private meal. If she's out of her tube, she wont even hiss or rattle her tail at me anymore, and is dog friendly but musks like hell. My ball and Boa sometimes rupture their prey items, and cleaning up blood and guts is a lot easier in a tub then it is in their enclosure.
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Jan 26, 2012 17:54
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Devo posted:I think my little leopard is shedding for the first time since I've had her Your idea of a humid hide is perfect. I haven't had leopards for almost 5 years, but if one was having a bad shed I'd use a dark tupperware container filled with soaked sphagnum moss. I'm pretty sure they were mad at me when I took the box away after their shed. If it's a normal shed, you may not even need a humid box, if your humidity levels and hydration are alright. In other news, I'm getting a free Juvenile Red Phase Amazing Tree Boa this week! He is soo red, but I really need to make an enclosure with high humidity, but low mold levels as he's only semi-arboreal. Do anyone have experience with this? My green tree pythons just sit on sticks all day so I don't care if they have soggy substrait, but this guy likes to chill on the floor. Ohh well, off to read more about snakes instead of doing work. big dig fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Feb 1, 2012 |
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Feb 1, 2012 16:47
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Here's some pics of the new tree boa.    No matter what I did, he kept moving his head out of focus and was trying to track my fingers around my camera. This guy has an awesome sense of thermal direction, and is MEAN! I took a strike, and even at his size hes got wicked long and stupidly sharp teeth. He's a display snake it seems. He also had a bad shed, so I'm keeping him in a tub at almost 100% humidity, with a dry ledge and some fake leaves for him to hide under.
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Feb 3, 2012 13:51
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lwoodio posted:My corn was a bitey rear end in a top hat when I got him and I couldn't even hold him at all barehanded. I started handling him with rubber kitchen gloves until he tamed down. It would probably help with the thermal sensing thing as well. I have nice thick leather work gloves I use, and it works when their juvenile, but not when they're adults and have massive bird catching pincers of death. I don't mind getting bites though, it goes with the whole arboreal snake thing. They have dick written in their genetic code, but with enough handling become semi-manageable.
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Feb 3, 2012 17:37
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Captain Foxy posted:Thanks for the tip on the basking light, I'll prop it up so it's not directly on there. He doesn't climb much (since we've had him, he's either been in one hide or the other, lazy lump) but it's good to be safe, snakes are derp. For my GTP, I use to have to 'brain' the F/T mouse I fed her. Basically you split their forehead open and something about a nice mouse brain exposed makes snakes go crazy. Also try feeding at night, in a dark room, as BP's normally feed at night. As far as names go, Balzac.
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Feb 5, 2012 00:05
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My kids named my male lacerta Sonic the Hedgehog. I also have a Mr. Crowley (new red phase boa), and my two boas are Fry and Leela. They're too young to do it, but I think he awkwardly hits on her but never gets it right.
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Feb 5, 2012 00:44
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Angela Manaconda posted:I just got my first reptile ever! A gorgeous little beardie named Paarthurnax. I picked him up at the reptile expo in Etobicoe today. Expect pictures when I am back home at 2 in the goddamn morning. God drat them for not having an ATM!!! Some awesome deals there, and it was really a gecko / ball python orgy, unfortunately animals I have no interests in  I did get a tarantula though after the wife FINALLY gave me the go ahead.
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Feb 27, 2012 19:42
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My jeweled lacertas have decided to mate again! Unlike the last clutch of eggs, I will now use a new incubator that hopefully wont desiccate them in 8 hours. I have a reptibator that I bought in a pinch, and it was the worst. Temperature variation of 10 F between top and bottom, and impossible to keep humidity above 70%. Anyone know of some good DIY incubators? I've seen those cooler with a fish tank heater in a bed of water with a suspended substrate. Anyone have any luck with these? DIY Incubator http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T86nPATEckA These lizards have a habit of mating and laying Eggs when I travel. The first mating occured a few weeks before I went on a 2 week cruise, and my sitter let them turn to rocks in the cage, the second time they mated they laid eggs 1 day before I left for my honeymoon and I'm anticipated them laying this clutch when I have to travel for work. In other news, anyone try LED solutions for reptiles? I see plenty of UV solutions above the 280 nm range, but nothing in the UVB spectra. Anyone know if something like this exists? My googling just brings me to a bunch of weed growing websites.
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Apr 4, 2012 15:49
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Captain Foxy posted:Two perches is a great idea; I hadn't seen that recommended but it makes perfect sense to allow the animal to self-regulate. Thanks for the tip about over misting too! Since I mist my cresties once a night, it should be easy for me to stick to the same schedule for a GTP without the temptation to over-water. I have an unnatural obsession with Arboreal snakes, and my Sorong is the chillest snake out there. A couple things I found keeping GTP's, they are VERY bad shedders if you have a humidity upset, and spraying 1 or 2 times a day really doesn't affect the ambient humidity if you don't have a Mister going off constantly. I'd not reccomend using tap water as your misting agent, instead use distilled of RO/DI. GTP's drink off their bodies and sip on water droplets, so I found misting more often better then misting less. I made my own auto-mister, but got one of those Monsoon type as a christmas gift a few years back, and it's really good as well. http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products/monsoon_rs400.php I also found that the temperatures the GTP's do best at are high seventies in the basking spot and room temperature ambient. Surprisingly I found high sixties and low 70s at night actually increased her food response, over higher temperatures. As nocturnal snakes, you will get bitten at night, regardless of how tame they are. During the day, some snakes can be picked up quite easily, just be VERY careful with the prehensile tail, especially as a neonate. If it gets damaged, your snake may not be able to grasp while feeding (they dangle their whole body with just the tail wrapped around a perch) and slowly die. I've also found that having different diameter perches is a good idea, and those flexible vine type perches are awesome. Your snake will have a favorite position for the day, one for hunting at night, and will switch it up every few weeks. Here's my baby Jade playing camouflage. I keep a water in pebble bed bottom, with a couple of minnows in the water and pathos for plants / cover. If you go with water bottom, you'll have awesome humidity, but might make a bacteria farm, so be careful. She's 8 months old now, and just went through her colour morph. 
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Sep 10, 2012 20:10
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Hype posted:big dig, do you allow a drying out period for your GTP? I'd considered an auto-mister just to be sure humidity stays high enough, but then I was told too much humidity could lead to skin infections and that there should be a period each day where the cage is totally dry. I'm worried I'm going to have a hard time keeping that balance between too humid and just humid enough. I also work from home, and have my snakes in the office and living room, but I travel for work so I need the mister. I have my automister set on 30 seconds every 3 hours, and my GTPs and amazon tree boas get plenty soaked, but they do dry completely about 10 minutes later. They have hydrophobic skin and water will bead off them, or collect in their coil (which they drink, or just evaporate). I had a hard time with humidity at first as well, and had a few bad sheds. Humid boxes are a good idea if you notice a bad shed, especially one starting on their heads. I also have all of them in glass display tanks, which further gently caress with humidity. The exception is one of my ATB, who is a notoriously jumpy snake and lives in an opaque bin with a water floor. Those are the best for retaining good humidity IMO, but you can't look at them. As far as the tail, I just let my neonate slither into my hand and let them uncoil their tails themselves. It sometimes takes up to 10 minutes for them to decide your fingers are branchlike themselves. As for feeding, I fed pinky heads, and it took up to 1 hour for the first feeding once they hatched. That will be the most difficult part, after that, it's KILL KILL KILL! I found my ATBs a helluva lot more aggressive then GTPs. I'm getting into Emerald tree boas once I finish my home renovation, and might be able to re-home a Carpandro, even though I'm against hybrids they look REALLY COOL. A good source for seeing how to care for GTPs is youtubes CuteGayJason, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuHWit3DHt0
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Sep 12, 2012 15:06
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Koivunen posted:Being a new juvenile Beardie Mom means I have a lot of questions... I've had beardies since I was 7, and never had any of them on a heat lamp at night. I live in Canada and during the winters our house would drop to the mid-60s and it wouldn't really affect the beardies. Think about where they live, in a semi-desert environment, where it gets quite cold at night as stone and sand aren't really good at retaining heat. As far as providing additional heat, you might f-up the temperature gradient and do more harm. You beardie needs a hot basking spot (100F or so) and a cooler spot (80s). If you add flexwatt or something you might ruin that gradient. As for veggies, juveniles will not eat very much, and a few of mine never ate veggies until they were a year old. I just fed kale to the crickets and then fed them to the beardie. Good gut loaded food is best for veggie intake at that age. They are also skiddish when young, but as they get older will chill right out. I have only 1 beardie now because he's so boring. Just sits on his basking rock, or under his basking rock. As he gets older he will chill right out, and with handling of course. Open mouth and black beardies aren't inviting to hold.
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Sep 19, 2012 13:02
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Captain Foxy posted:and try tong-feeding him some superworms or mealworms. Waxies are a good choice too; nothing turns down a waxworm, but they're fat as hell so be limited with them. I'd recommend against feeding a baby beardie super/meal worms. Their shell has been known to cause impaction, and I had to have a vet give my guy an enema after he didn't poop for a few weeks and was in visible pain from impaction. Undigested shells came out, and he immediately became all DERP again. We had him on tile floor, with no substrata, so that was all meal/super worms. We now feed him exclusively crickets, and tomato horn/silk worms. I'd also get rid of the under tank heater. The basking spot is more then adequate if you can get a spot to approximately 110F, and you don't have to worry about him getting cold at night. They're from the desert, and can tolerate to the low 60s at night, even in the summer.
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Jun 12, 2013 21:00
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Malalol posted:
I have a female bull that's about 2.5 years old who looks around the same girth/length. A few more feet and a little bit more girth and you'd have an adult. Here's a small album of some of my little guys; http://imgur.com/a/ZE7Xv #1 - Maverick - He* was my first pet snake, about 4 years ago I got a bearded dragon, then some jeweled lacertas and decided that I should get a snake. What's more fun then a ball python. So off to the pet store I went (before I got wise to things). Got this male* for $20. As my first, I love this guy*, and loved him* so much that eventually we found out that he* was getting very big for a boy*. We probed him*, and guess what, he's* a she! My wife is way more into snakes then I am, and is currently breeding her with a Pewterblast BP because her and her snake friends think this girl is wild caught, and might have some interesting genes. On that note, my wife is WAY more into snakes then I am. I love to play with them, and let them crawl around my office, but she does all the neat stuff like feed, clean, and hook them up together. #2 - Leela - My Coral albino red tail boa. She was the second snake I ever got, and this picture is a little old. She's sorta losing the sadle pattern, but she hasn't yellowed up which is nice. She is a retard, and has not eaten a frozen-thawed rat head first ever. She has the nick Butt Muncher. #3 - Mr.* Crowley - This was our first Amazon Tree Boa, and second arboreal snake after our GTP. He* was sold to us unsexed and turned out he's* a she! We now have a different coloured morph ATB, another female, and my wife is currently looking for a male ATB for a breeding project when these girls mature in 2-3 years. She, like some ATBs is a huge dick and bites me around 5 times whenever I take her out. It doesn't hurt but the bites bleed quite a bit, so cleaning / inspecting her is a challenge. #4,5,6 - This is my personal favorite snake, my Green Tree Python Jade - I got her as my second snake because a friend at a reptile ranch told me he got something cool and gave me her for a great price, sold un-sexed again, but we assigned her as a female because we thought we had all males at the time. She is VERY tame, dispite what the GTP reputation is and is an aru sarong. You can see the excellent colour transition between juvenile and adult phase. I take her out almost daily, and she has a perch on my desk near my lamp that she coils around and stays on during the day. However, at night she goes into hunt mode and anything warm is fair game, her teeth are VERY sharp, but I have not been bitten yet. #7 - White sided bull-snake - Cruiser - Cruiser, sold un-sexed as a juvie was given an asexual name as we've finally learned from our mistakes. She was found out to be a she about 1 year ago when I had her popped. She is the only impulse snake I ever bought, and my wife hates her as she will hiss and present her hood whenever my wife is around. With me however, she's totally chill. She is named cruiser because she is the fasted snake I've ever owned and has a reputation for escaping before I re-homed her in a more secure tank vs. her old tub. Snakes are neat!
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Aug 14, 2013 02:39
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Pew! Pew! posted:I'm going to move in about a month up to New Jersey. Anyone got tips for helping snakes not stress too much on long car rides? It'll be about 13 hours with 2-3 breaks. I'm guessing humid, dark containers would help? I transported about 5 snakes 16 hours in one day. I kept them in rubbermade totes with airholes and kept them in a secured, dark area hidden from direct sunlight. I checked on them every 3-4 hours when I made a pit stop and I made sure to never let the car get too hot, but did keep it slightly warmer then I liked, at about 25C. I don't really think you need to worry about humidity for such a short period of time, unless you got a tricky arboreal species who is in mid shed. For my green tree pythons I used PVC pipe structures siliconed onto the floor of a taller rubbermade for them to coil around, but didn't do any humidification. Didn't have any problems when they got back into their enclosure. Just make sure the lids on your transport tubs are secured, and maybe avoid feeding them a day or two before they travel. I've also seen people transport snakes in pillow cases. I've only done this for very short periods of time, but heard people do it for much longer. Snakes bags are essentially pillow cases with a draw string. Snakes usually travel really good because it's a dark, tightly fitting confined space. As long as they don't freeze or fry everything should be good. big dig fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 17:04
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Superconsndar posted:I never post my snakes so Hey, you and I have snake twins! This is my female Leela, this was taken last year. She had digestive issues as well, and is kinda stupid. She butt munches all her meals.  And this is the Male, Agamemnon. 
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Jan 16, 2014 15:18
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Captain Foxy posted:
AWWWWW!!!!!! Snabies are super cute I love them. Our GTP was bright yellow as a snaby  before turning into a cuddle green goddess 
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May 20, 2014 16:14
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Anyone here into Amazon Tree Boas?? My wife is super into them, and purchased a number of them from an ex-breeder who was getting out of the hobby about 2 years ago after we got our first and only Green Tree Python. ATB's are the only snakes in my collection that regular leave me bleeding, super aggressive, but very pretty animals. We have them in opaque containers at the moment due to aggression, but when our final snake room is completed I'm planning some sort of natural enclosure that hopefully will allow us to see them, and allow them to be concealed enough to not flip out and smash their faces in a desperate attempt to kill.    We also got babies. Here's some of the prettiest ball pythons from this years breeding project. I don't know poo poo about genetics, my wife and her hobby partner are all into that. I just feed and clean, also play with them.   
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Dec 4, 2014 15:31
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