|
So, I recently visited Muranaka Bonsai Nursery on my yearly Thanksgiving trip. Unfortunately, I left my SD card for my camera at the house I was staying at the day I went, so I didn't manage to get any pictures of the magnificent bonsai there. I can however recommend that anyone in southern California should make a trip to it, as it's a very nice nursery that is more than decently priced. I also wanted to ask if anyone in the thread with some good bonsai experience might want to write up an article or two on bonsai in cold weather (extended frost/snow) or bonsai on the East coast. And of course any articles on raising bonsai outside of the U.S. are more than welcome as well. Just go ahead and post them and I'll add them to the O.P. 
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2012 03:23
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 14:32 |
|
|
That is rather odd... If it had died or anything though, the leaves would have long since turned brown and fallen off. But because the Bay area (saw this from your profile) is so temperate, it may simply lead to a longer growing season. My big Trident finally started turning red just over Thanksgiving. Taken just a week ago. You can still see how a few leaves still have yet to change color. My other Trident seedlings are also the same in terms of their colors right now. The only real danger in it still being green is that it may go dormant in late winter and therefore wake up on late Spring, which isn't the opportune time for growth.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 4, 2012 20:16
|
|
|
@jerkstore:Aww...  Honestly though, I wouldn't worry too much about. Sure, it's a bit late to the party, but it probably isn't going to be a huge setback or anything.  @jackpot: Yeah, give the guy some water, for sure. Maybe also check to see if it might be under an air vent or anything that might cause the temperature to fluctuate for it a lot. The ficus on the left is doing well though, so that probably isn't a problem. More than likely it's just thirsty right now. Try watering it every 3 days or so, as too much water could kill it if it's in shock from overwatering to drought. Mr. Soop fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Dec 5, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Dec 5, 2012 06:04
|
|
|
@Chilly: That does indeed look like a variegated Serissa. It'll bloom out a bunch of white flowers at some point, so that should be pretty cool! I've never seen a chili be bonsai'd before, but it looks pretty darn cool! Goes to show how just about anything can be a bonsai if you work hard enough at it. Oh, funny story I heard about Masahiko Kimura through the grapevine. This happened probably 20 some odd years ago, if not more. Apparently the best bonsai club in the U.K. had managed to get him out of Japan and onto British shores after years of coaxing. So all their best club members show up with all their best, oldest plants (25 to 50 years of age) to be appraised by Mr. Kimura, who had asked that only the best specimens be provided for him to observe. When Kimura shows up, he walks into the room the seminar is being held in, looks at the trees, and walks out. After he doesn't come back for a couple of minutes, the organizer of the event goes out and finds him in the hallway, smoking a cigarette and looking rather distraught. Wondering what the problem is, the organizer asks him what's going on. Kimura grumpily responds, asking why they brought such young trees! He can do nothing with them, and the whole trip has been a waste of his time! The organizer apologizes to Kimura, and manages to convince him that at least one or two of the trees might be worth looking at. Kimura comes back into the room, looks at the first tree on the table before him, and then goes back out into the hallway. Once again, the organizer goes back out into the hall. Kimura has lit up another cigarette, and is furiously rubbing his temple while saying unsavory things in his native Japanese tongue and pacing up and down the hall angrily. The organizer presses him for info again, wondering what could be so bad that it has offended Kimura-san not once, but twice now. Kimura responds that the trees are ruined, as they have been wired using copper-coated aluminum wire rather than with the traditional Japanese method of using solid copper wire. And upon telling him this, he declares that the trip has been a complete waste, and leaves in a huff off to his hotel room for the duration of his stay. So, the moral of this story is... Well, there isn't exactly one. But it does go to show just how serious and/or crazy some of these Japanese bonsai masters are.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 12, 2012 07:39
|
|
|
That blog is pretty awesome! I'm thinking about applying for an apprenticeship now. (Once I get out of school at least...) As for Norfolk Pines as bonsai, this a great example of the 'anything is possible' aspect of bonsai. Norfolks are kind of...eh when it comes to being bonsai. They have only one growth pattern, and as such don't lend themselves well to the art. That doesn't mean that you can't try of course, as it could be good practice with trying to shape a plant. Use your own discretion, I say! 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 15, 2012 05:59
|
|
|
Good question. I've heard that indoor bonsai are more tolerant of repotting due to the typically non-changing environment of the house, but from my experience they are prone to pick up on seasonal changes anyway. That being said, under normal circumstances, while you CAN repot now, it might be best just to wait until late February to do it. However since you aren't going to be doing any root pruning, I'd say it's probably fine to repot. Growth might be stunted for a little bit, but fertilizer should supplement that just fine. Gotta' say that you probably already knew all that though based on the cool stuff you've shown. 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 22, 2012 02:01
|
|
|
Those are some very nice pieces of pottery! A friend of mine in Northern California does some pottery, and we've been working on potentially getting her to make bonsai pots. In terms of buying everyday bonsai pots though, I myself am at a loss. You can get them online for sure, but I buy local or at big bonsai sales. So I don't have much to offer in the way of suggestions for those.  What I CAN offer though is this chart I scanned off of one of my many books, which helps match up bonsai styles to pots. It's more of a general thing as it doesn't take pot color into account, but it's definitely helpful to simply knowing what kind of pot you need for your tree. 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 29, 2012 06:00
|
|
|
Those Nick Lenz pots are pretty boss, and they're a great example of non-traditional bonsai pots that are becoming popular little by little. As for my friend, she's made a a couple bonsai pots for me and my ex, but she lives out of town 200+ miles away from me, so I haven't gotten to see them yet. And, as I just found out from her not an hour ago, she dislocated a rib a month or two back and it's very painful for her to throw pots on a wheel right now.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 1, 2013 06:20
|
|
|
Jade plants are really cool. They're nigh unkillable and as you'll see, root pretty easily from cuttings. Just keep in mind that they can be very slow growers. Other than that it looks like you've got yourself some nice free plants there!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 10, 2013 20:33
|
|
|
I don't know if there's an online resource, but speaking from experience and knowledge gathered, Junipers, Jade, Ivy, Ficus, and Chinese Elms are the easier ones to root from cuttings, members of the Maple family are kind of middle-tier, and anything from the Pine or Fir family are just about impossible regardless of the health or size of the parent tree.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2013 03:11
|
|
|
A former member of one of the bonsai clubs I go to actually had a poison ivy bonsai... Then he died a number of years ago and it vanished into estate sale ether. I saw a big Holly bonsai once at a club meeting; the owner got cuts on his hands regularly when he worked on it if he didn't wear gloves. Point is, bonsai can be some serious business sometimes. 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2013 07:30
|
|
|
That's more of a pseudo-bonsai pot than anything else.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2013 23:53
|
|
|
@jackpot: Your willow leaf fig isn't doing too hot. Dunno what the problem is if your other one is fine with the current watering schedule; my only thought is that if they're in different places in the house it could have something to do with it. @QPZIL: Goshin is the epitome of the level of bonsai mastery that has been achieved outside of Japan. This is a big deal because even the harshest bonsai masters (such as Kimura, for instance) can look at Goshin and appreciate it. And when you have people who can give credit to bonsai grown on American soil when they themselves see nothing but masterpiece specimens at the best shows in the world, it really says something. Bit of a history lesson here, folks. Curiously enough, I recently purchased 2 of the 3 books published by John Naka. They're really incredible books and each one is personally signed by him, but at $90+ for just one (they have been out of print for almost a decade now, I believe), it's something only serious bonsai enthusiasts should think about buying. Anyway, one of them came with material the previous owner had collected over the years. One amusing thing to note was a pamphlet from the 1980's about the "soon to be built" bonsai section for the National Arboretum in Washington D.C., listing John Naka as being on the Board of Directors. What's so cool about this (to me at least) is that one of the books has a picture of a yet uncompleted Goshin, his masterpiece bonsai that he would eventually donate to the National Arboretum once it was completed.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2013 08:07
|
|
|
Jinning is one of the more advanced bonsai techniques, as you risk a lot by doing it; you are killing off part of your tree, and you are doing so in such a way that means the jinned part of the tree will NEVER grow there again. But when performed correctly, it adds an immense amount of age and power to the tree. That Dwarf Jade is also looking pretty cool. Already has a good Broom style form to it, so my opinion is to just let it grow that way and see how big and refined you can get it without it overpowering the pot. My top five bonsai tips though? Well, I'd have to say it'd be these. 5. Always research what kind of plant you're growing as bonsai. This is important as you'll have a better idea of the watering and nutritional needs of the plant, along with what it's natural growth pattern is. Perhaps if it lends itself to a certain bonsai style naturally, it could be best to build on that natural strength. Or of course the opposite is true; you could impress people by growing it in a style you pretty much never see with that kind of plant. (Be aware that this requires a good amount of skill.) 4. Don't be afraid to ask the experts questions. (Unless they're the Japanese experts in which case tradition holds you simply shut up and listen.) The main reason I started this thread was to bring bonsai to the table of those who are interested, but maybe too intimidated or busy to seek out advice or opinions from a bonsai store or bonsai club. But seeing as how most experts are older gents, they actually have been pretty good about youngsters such as myself (24 years old) taking an interest in the art, and are usually very friendly and happy to give advice. Japanese masters though? Don't even think of questioning why they do something during a demonstration, unless you want to be kicked out of the seminar. 3. Traditional styles are there for a reason. One thing I've seen a little bit of at clubs, and with myself when I first started was the idea of finding bizarre looking trees, as they could make for good bonsai. While this CAN be true, it almost never is. The standard styles put in place are there for a good reason; they are all incredibly aesthetically pleasing to the eye. And while you should never try to replicate branch-for-branch bonsai in a magazine or online picture that depict the epitome of a certain style, you should not deviate too much from the standard set by specimen trees. In other words, work within the confines of the style you choose, but don't feel dominated by them. It's a fine line that sounds both easier and harder to conform to than it actually is. 2. Don't let a tree scare you. One of the first things I was terrified of was when I began working with Japanese Black Pines. They are very difficult to work on and require a trained eye when you do prune and shape them. The fact that the needles don't grow back after being cut, coupled with the fact that every cut affects the health of the tree makes them very intimidating. But they are also among the most rewarding to work with because of that. How did I overcome my fear? I was lucky enough where my teacher invited me to help him and other volunteers help prune the focal point, masterpiece Black Pines at my local Japanese Garden. (Me doing a sexy action shot of said masterpiece Japanese Black Pine pruning.)  I overcame my fear by jumping in head first, knowing that if I somehow messed up that it would be alright. Why? Because I didn't know what I was doing, even though I had been given instructions & tips on how to prune. Having a good teacher was a huge part of it though, which is why I consider seeking out expert advice to be crucial to any bonsai enthusiast. But don't be afraid to mess up, ESPECIALLY if you're just starting out. How do we make good decisions? By getting experience. And how do we get experience? By making bad decisions. Bit of a paradox of life, but it's what helped refine the art form in the first place, and what helps it continue to do so. 1. Don't speak to your trees; let your trees speak to you. Sounds slightly hippyish, but this is the thing you should keep in mind the most. You can do your part as a human by shaping and taming the tree, to an extent. Consider that the "speaking to it" aspect. But more importantly, you need to take into account the health of your tree, its nutritional needs, how well it may grow with the style you've selected for it, and how it reacts to pruning and fertilizing. That's the "listening to the tree" aspect of it. It sounds a bit repetitious compared to what I stated earlier, but I cannot stress enough how important listening to your tree is. The best bonsai come out of doing this. It's a piece of art, sure. But it's also a living thing with needs and potentially wants of its own. So just make sure you always keep an open mind when working on your tree; know the strengths, weaknesses, and limits of it. If you do that then you'll be on your way to creating a bonsai you can really be proud of.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2013 09:34
|
|
|
@bollig: To answer your first question, it's worth a shot to go ahead and try and root any cuttings you make. False cypress are something I haven't done before, but it's worth a shot seeing as how any cuttings you make will be thrown away anyway. Also, I did some research into it and you should keep it outdoors. As for your second question, hard water is okay for it. The white deposits are most likely stains caused by lime deposits from the water, and they're harmless. If it might be a fungus though, you can kill it easily by getting a Q-tip, dipping it in rubbing alcohol, then rubbing the dipped end on the fungus. It will kill it without harming the rest of your plant. As for your Ficus and other questions, you can repot either Ficus anytime you want, although the upcoming spring months will be the best time for it. Ideally, you should let the Microcarpa grow out more in order to match the very large root base of it over time, and for the Benjamina you can pinch leaves on it if it hasn't really dropped many after you got it. Hope that info helps! Crocoduck: I remember seeing a bonsai magazine once doing a retrospective of the work of John Naka; the eyecatcher picture for the article was of him going at Goshin with an electric carving saw. 
|
|
#
¿
Feb 1, 2013 08:04
|
|
|
bollig posted:It does help. One thing I've heard, for fungi is to pour cooled chamomile tea on it. The Cypress is outside, poor little fella. I can't tell if it's water hardness or fungus at this point. Time will tell. That's for the response. Yes, actually. So long as they aren't fusing together as they grow or are part of the same root system, you can separate them and have them be two separate trees. Ficus in general are pretty resilient like that, and Ficus Benjamina more so.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2013 19:01
|
|
|
Well as I always say, there's no harm in trying! Not like you're risking anything by trying to grow it still. I have a euonymus alatus that I thought had succumbed completely to fire blight (the leaves turned completely crinkled and became dead) or some other similar plant disease last summer. I was lazy and left it in the pot and sprayed it down along with my other plants. Amazingly enough, 2 weeks later the new growth had sprouted out from the base. In other words, never give up! Trust your instincts!
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2013 06:23
|
|
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:I suppose that prune and re-potting at the same time is a bad idea, so which one should I do first? Either one would be fine to do first. Pruning in order to start building the shape of it that you want, repotting it to help aid the growth of the tree and reestablish the root system for it to be an actual bonsai. Personally speaking, I would repot first (being that Spring is approaching soon, the tree will bounce back quickly) then wait a couple weeks to prune some. But as I always say, that's just me.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2013 05:30
|
|
|
Yup, feel free to. If they're already pushing new buds it means the tree is awake. The fertilizer will help it hit the ground running.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2013 22:41
|
|
|
Bit of good news and bad news on my end... My ficus contorta I've been training for about a year for the upcoming bonsai show in April at the local Japanese gardens contracted root rot and died. Never leave your mother in charge of a bonsai while you're away for 4 days; she'll decide it needs a bunch of water and the tree won't do so well. In the good news though, I bought another one to replace it and I'm going to the Huntington Gardens for a bonsai festival tomorrow! They have a rotating collection of bonsai, exhibiting pieces by renowned bonsai artists like John Naka! I'll be sure to take a good amount of pics for the thread.  As for the white stuff, it could be mold, fungus, or far less likely but possibly, beneficial micorriza. Either way, it shouldn't follow it around forever if it's not micorriza, as if you use more traditional bonsai soil it probably won't be able to grow.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 23, 2013 09:11
|
|
|
Sandy, always go sandy when you want non-bonsai soil that will hold as little water as possible. Poor Greg. He looks long gone by now, just like my Ficus looked when it died from overwatering... Pinch the lower trunk of the tree with your finger tips. If it feels kind of mushy in any way, it's done. Another test you can do is to scratch off some of the trunk bark with your fingernail. If it comes off and there's brown underneath, it's dead. If it's green, then there's still a glimmer of hope, but only if it's far down the trunk near the base of the tree.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 6, 2013 05:58
|
|
|
jadebullet posted:Anyway, it is in a very squat "ornate" pot that doesn't look like it will work very well for keeping it alive so I am thinking that I need to transplant it. What sort of pot would you guys recommend for it? Height wise it is about 1.5 feet tall. Also, what sort of soil & fertilizer would work well for it if I don't want to go out and buy the expensive stuff right away. I was thinking of using a mix of compost dirt, and sphagnum peat moss for the base, and using bone meal as the fertilizer as this is what my mom uses for her flower gardens. I just don't know if this will also work for a bonsai tree though. The pot shape depends entirely upon what style of bonsai it is. Although seeing as how it's a larger tree, you'll need a bigger pot. The bone meal fertilizer should work just fine, and in terms of soil, what you have right now will do just fine until you can get yourself some real bonsai soil. I do advise you get some real stuff soon though. For wondering about deer going around and potentially eating any plants you might have, I suggest checking out this page rating Deer Resistant Plants provided by Rutgers University. (Japanese Maple got a B grade; Seldom Severely Damaged). http://njaes.rutgers.edu/deerresistance/ Hope that helps!
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2013 04:34
|
|
|
At the very least it seems healthy. You have lots of leaves coming out of dormancy, along with a bunch of buds ready to go. I agree with unprofessional though, this is a pretty young tree. Probably 3 years old at most. Not that there's anything wrong with that. You're actually in a pretty prime position to determine the style of the tree at this age, or at least pretty close to it.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2013 08:29
|
|
|
Yeah, different pests take different kinds of treatment. I'm assuming by eating it you mean that entire leaves are gone. Snails, grasshoppers, or deer are common culprits for that, but as far as I know they usually aren't too into maples.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2013 18:06
|
|
|
That's one sexy Japanese Maple, Crocoduck. Nice job on table improvisation too! I used old bricks and fenceboards myself last time I needed some quick bonsai benches. I wanted to share with you guys, and in particular people who are just getting interested in bonsai, a book I recently picked up at Barnes & Noble that was on sale for 5 bucks.  Bonsai Secrets by Peter Chan is probably the most newbie friendly book I've read on bonsai. Covering a pretty good range of topics without getting too in depth and being overwhelming, it's very useful as a introductory guide to styles, soils, pots, and pruning. Reading this book will let you get an excellent grasp of what you need to do if you're just starting out, and once you get into it, you can also read it over again and see just how far you've come. Best part of all though? It's incredibly cheap on Amazon at only 4 bucks or so for a used copy. So just to reiterate, if you're new or fairly new into bonsai or maybe you're into looking for a information resource and don't have a lot of extra dough on hand, this is the book for you.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2013 05:50
|
|
|
Boxwoods are A-OK with being trimmed up harshly. They've been cultivated for it. Holy crap though with the water bottle. If you accidentally hit your plants with it, wash them with water A.S.A.P. to dilute the chemicals, as they can kill your plant. Rinse them off, and try and rub the branches and leaves with your fingers as you do so to help clean the Pine Sol off.
|
|
#
¿
May 28, 2013 05:24
|
|
|
I actually had one that I bought at a bonsai nursery, but the intense heatwave (a couple weeks of 100+ degree temperatures) here outright cooked it. Didn't pay much for it, but it's still a loss. How is everyone else doing with their bonsai during these warm months?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 24, 2013 09:30
|
|
|
So long as the temp doesn't dip or rise rapidly, and you keep it in a warmer place during the colder months, a Ficus would be ideal.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 28, 2013 02:14
|
|
|
That's pretty darn cool! If I had some disposable income these days, I wouldn't mind dropping a few bucks on that cool decor. As for a Ficus in the cold, I've seen it done with one outside. However, it WAS a fairly large, well established one that was protected from a majority of cold wind. Indoors, you'd have to give a Ficus some good old TLC by keeping it in the warmest part of the house during cold months. If it drops just a few leaves, that's alright. If it starts dropping a whole bunch of leaves, consult your bonsai physician.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 13, 2013 08:04
|
|
|
I'm surprised that the shade wasn't cutting it for you. A shade-cloth setup might work as well, as it'll let a healthy amount of sunlight through without frying them.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2013 21:26
|
|
|
I've been experimenting with a Manzanita bonsai in a 1 gallon pot, and the only pruning I've done has been leaf pruning and minor cuts at most. Been very gentle with it in other words. That being said, I'm still pretty much completely unsure as to how to proceed with it. It's less of a project and more of an experiment.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2013 07:48
|
|
|
Those are both REALLY beautiful. I can see what you mean about the Mugo, but that's a problem that will fix itself over time. Major props on the Juniper. Looks absolutely superb. 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2013 22:49
|
|
|
So one of the difficulties in keeping a thread like this active during the fall and winter comes from the fact that there isn't much going on with our trees right now. That being said, I don't live in a colder area where I get snow. But I'm sure some of you guys do. Any tips anybody might be willing to share on protecting them from frost, snow, and very low temperatures?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 20, 2013 23:09
|
|
|
That's one heck of a nice setup right there. The cold frame for your maples is a real nice touch. Both my maples finally went to sleep, one turning red and losing leaves about 3 weeks before the other just dropped green leaves and went to sleep. Weird. Everything else is frost-tolerant which is the biggest worry where I live, although there may be snow for the first time since 1998 within the next 24 hours. Junipers might not like any snow, and I'm not sure how my Redwood will feel about it, but Black Pines give no fucks.  I recently went to the coast and saw some atrocious bonsai for sale. I've gone to that particular gardening store for years and have been looking every time I visit to see if the quality of bonsai improves. It hasn't. I'll start writing an article soon (provided busy holiday activities don't set me back) about how NOT to make and sell bonsai. It was really sad.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 7, 2013 04:34
|
|
|
So has anyone been experiencing any weirdness this winter with all the strange weather patterns throughout the world? Here in Cali there are some trees in my backyard that are already coming out of dormancy without having lost all their leaves because the weather has been so mild. Makes me worried for my maples if they wake up and then get murdered by a February frost. Also been a terrible OP and haven't updated with any articles. Been busy gearing up to move to Oakland to pursue my Horticulture major there. On the bright side, the California Shohin convention is this weekend so I'll see about taking pics of the masterpiece bonsai for the thread. (And then posting them when life isn't total chaos...)
|
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2014 06:38
|
|
|
I'm looking to get my AS in Landscape Horticulture at Merritt College, a community college in California that's one of the last Cali colleges at all to offer a non-science or agriculture based Horticulture program, as big State colleges or Universities offer it more as a big business or purely scientifically based major. Botany and Ag are great and all, but I want something more practical. In terms of what I can do with that sort of knowledge, this guy is a great example of how far it can take you. Also, I was unable to take pictures at the California Shohin convention. They really cracked down on unregistered visitors this year for it for no discernible reason. Didn't matter that I'm a student of one of the people doing a seminar, I'm  That mentality was there last time it took place though, so I can't say I'm not terribly surprised. I did network quite a bit and pick up this nifty keychain though, so there is that.  
|
|
#
¿
Feb 4, 2014 06:51
|
|
|
kedo posted:e: This post shamefully edited a week later as I've come to the obvious conclusion that my poor bonsai is dead and I just need to move on. No shame in losing a plant. It's part of the learning process so long as you know what to do the next time around. Trident maples are really good trees, did you get your hands on one by any chance? @Illudere: No idea what those last two are, but they all look good. I'm curious as to that plant just off to the left in the last picture. A cedar of some kind, looks like. Maybe an Atlas or Deodar? Or something rare like a Cedar of Lebanon? Sorry once again I haven't been in this thread as of late. IRL stuff like moving to Oakland to pursue a degree in Landscape Horticulture and being in the running for an internship at the San Francisco Botanical Gardens have been keeping me from doing more serious thread stuff.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2014 06:12
|
|
|
Illudere posted:That's a Colorado blue spruce. I killed the top and it's just been sitting around waiting for me to get rid of it. Spruce are problematic in that they have super supple branches that don't like to stay where you put them and are prone to die. Back budding is also tricky. Ah, so! I've only experimented with one Spruce before, a Bird's Nest Spruce. Like you said, back budding is tricky. I haven't seen too many spruce bonsai in Cali, so I'm curious as to what your plans might have been/are for it. kedo posted:Yup. Lesson learned: don't leave tropical plants out in freezing temperatures! Good choice! Tridents can deal with cold weather like a boss, grow quickly, and are both easy and rewarding to work with. Let us know when you get one. I myself have a particular fondness for Tridents.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2014 07:37
|
|
|
unprofessional posted:As long as that spot gets 6 good hours of sun per day, you should be fine. Start with just keeping it alive in a pot until next year. This is how most people actually fail. Once you know and love your tree, you'll have a better idea what you want to do with it. Personally, I really like all the very orange JM hybrids coming out. Nailed it. Japanese Maples actually do well with a bit of shade, but 6 hours of sun is definitely necessary. What JM hybrids are you mentioning? Are they like, Amur Maple hybrids or JM's that have been bred for more orange?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2014 06:09
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 14:32 |
|
|
SaNChEzZ posted:So I'm a little confused, if you're growing a tree in the ground to increase trunk size, are you pruning it the whole time, letting the roots grow huge as well, then uprooting it, trimming it and planting it then? You don't really work on a tree much when it's in the ground. For most things in that situation you just let them grow, maybe working on it just in terms of getting directional growth down with branches. It's pretty minimal at most. When you dig it up then that's when you do root trimming and after it's been potted up for a bit then you do the lion's share of branch trimming. I hope that clarifies it some. Nice job with your pineapples, btw. Those are tasty.
|
|
#
¿
May 2, 2014 22:46
|
|