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Ram overclocking adventures! What's the difference between: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/Vengeance-PRO-RGB-Black/p/CMW16GX4M2K3600C16#tab-tech-specs $199.99 Memory Size 16GB Kit (2 x 8GB) Tested Latency 16-18-18-36 Tested Voltage 1.35V Tested Speed 3600MHz and this: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/Vengeance-PRO-RGB-Black/p/CMW16GX4M2Z3600C18#tab-tech-specs $94.99 Memory Size 16GB Kit (2 x 8GB) Tested Latency 18-22-22-42 Tested Voltage 1.35V Tested Speed 3600MHz After overclocking the only difference is about 0.00625V which is apparently the amount of the lowest step up. In other news, don't open chrome when you have 32 gigs of ram humming along with a test. spunkshui fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Sep 21, 2020 |
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Sep 21, 2020 18:16
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The Electronaut posted:Timings are better on the first kit. Oh I know. I paid for the second kit and I'm running at the speeds of the first kit with 1.35625 volts to make the error go away. No errors at all but also no noticeable changes in performance which is why I never really played with ram before but ASUS is taking their sweet loving time with the ROG 3080 and I want to make lines go up.
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Sep 21, 2020 20:12
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hobbesmaster posted:If it isn't a different chip (ie Samsung-B vs Micron-E) then you're paying for the time they spent sorting through the chips to find the best ones that'll pass whatever standards there are for the listed QVLs. You just got lucky buying the second one and just happened to get chips that might've qualified for the first SKU. Yeah, and the better ones can probably be pushed even more. Its not fully luck though because it crashed the test after 2 minutes. It cant handle C16 at 3600 with 1.35V like the more expensive ram does. But all I had to do was click up once on the Dram voltage and it passed a 2 hour test.
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Sep 24, 2020 22:58
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Badger of Basra posted:Putting this question here so I stop making GBS threads up the pc building thread. Also I did try raising the DRAM voltage from 1.35 to 1.36 and that seemed to be stable, but then 1) I was getting popping/crackling sounds in audio 2) the BIOS froze when I went back to turn off the XMP. Anyone else have ideas? I am hesitant to use the DRAM Calculator and enter everything myself since I'm afraid I'll gently caress something up, not having done this before. Could I turn on the XMP but then just lower the speed to 3400 instead? The frozen bios sounds crazy bad. Id try to get some ram at a local store or swap ram with a friend to to see if you can confirm you got a lemon.
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Sep 25, 2020 23:41
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Weirdest thing. Z390 Prime A, 9600k @5.0ghz A game crashed out of nowhere so I decide to run a stress test. The OCCT stress test shuts down due to heat (85C). I run it again and my voltage goes from 1.385 to 1.39... 1.40 1.41 1.42 1.43 all in like 30 seconds. I shut it off in a confused panic. I have been screwing with this CPU like 2 years and normally its voltages are very stable at like 1.385 +/- 0.01 I recently changed all my ram and temporarily overclocked it but I definitely tested my cpu after that, though I might have only been looking at thermals. Still the thermals went nuts as voltage climbed so I think I would have noticed. I actually was on zoom all day with this computer with 30 kids faces on 1 screen and a bunch of chrome windows on the other. It was only after class when I was playing Overwatch that the crash happened and I ran the stress test. For the record I teach off 2 computers and the only one that's bluescreened during class is the Microsoft surface pro 7. Poor thing has to run OBS to record itself and zoom all without an internal fan. So uhhh.... anyone else ever had their motherboard forget how to voltage before? Does changing your ram sticks effect cpu voltage? Or the number of ram sticks? How about ram voltages? My ram is back on stock for now. Edit: forgot to mention load line calibration was on auto all 2 years. Im now on “5” on the 1-7 scale. 4 was too droopy. This fixes the problem so far. Going to watch vcore. spunkshui fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Oct 2, 2020 |
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Oct 2, 2020 05:47
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Lockback posted:Also looks like there was a BIOS update 6 weeks ago or so that addressed "stability" which could include a LLC bug. May be a good idea to run through and update bios/chipset drivers. Thanks, I think ill update, but im staying on 5 LLC anyway which I probably should have done from the start. VelociBacon posted:I was about to say this feels like a LLC thing. If anyone else is reading this, never set auto for LLC, you need to be able to see your max load voltage to be able to know exactly what it will be when you increase or decrease it. If your mobo is doing it's own thing for LLC you might make a change to vcore in your BIOS of +0.03mv and not see the same +0.03mv change at the CPU under load. On my wife’s computer I always use load line calibration but on my computer I started with it off and the voltage readings, temps and stability has always been rock solid. Kind of figured if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Most people online say LLC 6 and 5 are good and 5 is better for cpu health if its stable.
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Oct 2, 2020 19:14
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After my bios was updated and a quick game of "why wont my OS load" I'm going to settle for 4.8ghz @ 1.376V while loaded. 10 mins in OCCT makes my rad pretty hot though since my cooler came with 1200rpm fans. Amazon decided I needed 2000rpm Noctua's. I cant get the 5.0ghz to last 10 minutes on OCCT now at voltages I want. Either the crazy ramping voltages hurt it or the fact I'm use only LLC5 instead of what once was a surprisingly competent auto. The other rig in our house has a Z370 board a 4.8ghz is all I have managed with the same cpu anyway. Ill take the low voltages for now, this cpu needs to last through the pandemic I don't want to have to knife fight someone outside a microcenter for the new AMD cpu.
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Oct 3, 2020 05:02
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And now the ram OC is also back after an hour of testing this morning. under load near the end of the ram test (excited for new radiator fans today and a deep cleaning)  Idle vcore and ram info, box says CL18 ram  
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Oct 3, 2020 16:54
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VelociBacon posted:I know those are max temps during ram testing but what do you get for max cpu temps during cpu testing? If they're the same I think you have a lot more thermal headroom. Not sure if AVX workloads are tested with that ram tester though.    Water idles at 30C but its fans max at 1200 so I'm finally getting some nice Noctua 2000 rpm 140mm fans for it. The problem with 5.0 ghz is my idle voltage is 1.394 and its not stable at 5ghz under load because of the droop. Stepping up the voltage by 0.1 still throws and error after 3 minutes in OCCT. Im going to try LL6 for giggles again. but if it doesn't work I'm happy with the above.
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Oct 3, 2020 18:40
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VelociBacon posted:Idle temps and voltage don't really mean too much! What are your temps under max load? You should just pick an LLC and stick with it, look at what the voltage your CPU is getting is at whatever LLC setting and just use offset or manually adjust the voltage up or down in bios to hit the at-CPU Vcore you're targeting. Quickly looking around online it looks like you should be keeping your vcore 1.35-1.40v depending on if you can get the temperature under control. Too aggressive an LLC and you'll be seeing over 1.40v if you're idling at no load at 1.394v so I'd be careful. Maybe set it to 5 and see what your vcore is during your stress test to make sure it's under 1.40v? VelociBacon posted:You have c-states enabled right? It shouldn't be idling at max vcore unless we're not talking about the same voltage reading. I always have c-sates off and downclocking for stability. Sure my chip wont live as long but its how a treated my i7-920 @ 4.0ghz and E-6600 @ 3.6ghz and I have never even had to back off the overclocks before they became completely obsolete chips. The i7-920 is still living out its golden years at my highschools robotics club. Thanks to overclocking those are the only CPUs I have needed since the C2duo hit shelves. Everything is back to completely normal now stability and voltage wise @5.0ghz. I'm 100% sure LLC6 is what auto was using, my only problem is that due to age my 280mm rad isn't working as well as it used too and a core flicks past 85 after 5 minutes of letting the water heat up.  The rad is older then the 9600k, it was bought to replace a120mm AIO that was cooing the i7-920 since its pump died. I couldn't hit 4ghz without this rad so it was a fun upgrade to have to buy. Its fans top out at 1200 rpms though so I'm just keeping them on max right now. If the water cools down Cinebench stays at 80 and under no problem.  Rad fans going from basic 1200 rpm corsairs to 2000 rpm Noctuas tonight is going to be sick. Also swapping rear case exhaust for an a12x25 too since I'm embarrassed to admit my case exhaust fan is the old cooling fan for my 120mm radiator and its clearly optimized for static pressure not airflow. TLDR: AUTO LLC BAD EVEN IF IT WORKS FOR 2 YEARS, COMPUTER NOW GOOD BACK AT 5.0ghz spunkshui fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Oct 4, 2020 |
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Oct 3, 2020 19:56
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Today was a good day.  
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Oct 4, 2020 07:10
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VelociBacon posted:How much did your temps drop under full load compared to before? I have the same AIO so if it's much better I'll upgrade. Make sure you have the AIO pump on “extreme”, helps a ton with little noise impact. Initial load is the same from idle, whats improved is sustained temps since I can keep the water from heating as much. You can see my cores are all just under 80 even after 10 minutes of torture. Water used to hit 36-37C in 5 mins before OCCT shut off, now it stays around 32-33C and passes the 10 min mark fine. I like the upgrade because my fans are Idle at 1000 now and I have 1800 rpm cooling headroom If I need it. Vs the stock fans really only having like 800 to 1100 RPM in total to play with. The old fans also feel very cheap in comparison and have no sound dampening rubber. Curve: 29C water 60% fan, increasing by 10% every 1C spunkshui fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Oct 4, 2020 |
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Oct 4, 2020 16:42
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VelociBacon posted:Thanks for taking the time to reply with all the info. I could swear my AIO only has 'performance' or 'quiet' as options. It's a corsair h115i pro right? Maybe there was a software update? The whole system is essentially silent, I never hear it on my floor in my closed case.  Once I realized it was less work to unscrew the RAD from the top of the case it wasn't too bad. Fan connectors come off the Pump/CPU block combo.
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Oct 4, 2020 17:17
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TheFluff posted:I'm pretty sure this doesn't actually improve stability by any meaningful margin on modern CPU's. For a daily overclock nobody actually recommends disabling C-states and downclocking anymore. I enabled C states and speed step but my multiplier wont leave 50. Google just tells me to change the settings I think I already changed.
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Oct 5, 2020 01:21
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New case! Corsair 500D non RGB, no more loving fan knobs for me! Goodbye useless 5.25 bays, hello triple Noctua a12x25 intake fans. Washed the AIO radiator and repasted with thermal grizzly non conductive grease. Average load cpu temps are down by nearly 10C and its a quieter case with much more effective looking filters. Ran it for 10 minutes and 2 cores didn't even go above 75 the entire time. I mean just look at that loving cinebench    Low 70s
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Oct 15, 2020 16:45
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VelociBacon posted:Cool, let's see OCCT results? I looked at getting noctua fans for the rad but they were like... $33 bucks each for me. Seems like a lot. I'd love to see your custom fan curves btw. Yeah you have way more going on in there I have 6 cores. Do get 2000rpm fans for the RAD, mine aren't impressively quiet so you can def get something else. Oh those are long duration OCCT results. That was 7ish mins, heres a solid 10minutes.   Fan1 is CPU RAD https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCR0PQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Not going to recommend these, kinda loud 1500-2000rpm. I'm going to replace them with 140mm "a12x25s" when Noctua finishes designing it. Fan2 is CASE FANS https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A12x25-PWM-Premium-Quality-Quiet/dp/B07C5VG64V These are loving good. Ok there was some spikes in there clearly, (87C), but it really does hang out around 72-73 average even after 10 minutes. I'm thinking washing dust off the RAD and the repast did most of the work here, but new case could definitely be a factor too now that I have 4 pwm fan responding to water temp. A12x25 fans are a sound investment. heh Ok, fan curves!    So far that simple line has worked out great. edit: link fixed https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCR0PQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 spunkshui fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 08:08
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Xerxes17 posted:Oh the intel program was really just for getting started. I've been using CPU-Z for in-windows monitoring and making changes with the BIOS. Definitely manual LLC. I was on auto and one day I realized it was going way higher then in the past under load. I get the best stability if I can get voltage to step up ever so slightly under full load vs a droop. I use manual voltage, not offset. I typically end up typing something close to Intel’s safe voltage max value in the bios. Edit: OCCT for 10 mins is how I check stability spunkshui fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Nov 4, 2020 |
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Nov 4, 2020 19:41
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VelociBacon posted:Manual voltage is absolutely fine provided you can still set it to idle properly. A lot of the time manual voltage automatically runs that voltage all the time which is something you don't want. If you’re worried about it for thermal reasons as long as the CPU isn’t really doing anything it wont make much heat. If you’re worried about it for CPU longevity I pretty much never hear of that being a problem. All of my and my wifes old overclocked CPUs are actually still functioning and deployed to my robotics team (no longer OCed). As long as your 24/7 voltage is at or under what Intel recommends there’s no reason why the CPU wont literally end up living longer than it’s needed. I’ve never had much luck getting C states to work during overclocking anyway and I don’t really care because stability over everything. Edit: if you’re able to get voltages to drop at idle and C states to work while being fully stable then great but I just consider them to be very low priority. spunkshui fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Nov 5, 2020 |
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Nov 5, 2020 00:25
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VelociBacon posted:Really, I think the last few processors I've overclocked have had no issues throttling with c states. I know it used to be an issue with instability. I mean they just don't do it. I don't even know if its stable because it doesn't want to try for some reason. I enable "cstates" as much as I can in the bios but if I set the multi to 50 it just sits there.
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Nov 5, 2020 00:56
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Xerxes17 posted:Currently getting x45 @ 1.240V core, testing with prime95. However in my HWiNFO64 I see that cores 1/2 run 5 degrees hotter than cores 0/3, putting them past the thread recommended 73 ℃ average under load at around 78-80. Annnd as I was typing this on my laptop, prime 95 crashed, hmm. If you CPU paste is anywhere near as old as that cpu I would recommend spending 10 bucks on some thermal grizzly ceramic stuff. Then when you’re taking the CPU cooler off you can take the opportunity to wash it to really get all the dust off of it. The application process of the CPU paste doesn’t seem to matter a ton but age and quality of paste does matter. Your temperatures are not great, but the crashing is unacceptable. You also want to make sure that those temperatures don’t creep up overtime once it is stable. If your voltage stays fairly the same with load and without load then you might be looking at needing more of it. If it drops a sizable amount when you hit go I would move LLC up a step if you have any left.
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Nov 5, 2020 02:55
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Xerxes17 posted:Okay, so for example when I have it manually set to 1.280V in the BIOS, and then when I put it under Prime95 stress test, seeing a drop to 1.256V in CPU-Z is expected behavior, correct? It’s expected behavior but it’s also behavior we want to try to make stop. Its why it crashed. If you have any more LLC levels if you move it up a step you might see that droop get smaller. The droop is actually something most stock CPUs want to do because it prevents him from getting too hot under full core loads. We dont want it, in fact one step up for me gave me a tiny voltage uplife under full load. 1.385 to 1.394 under load. I am on step 6 out of 7. But my wife is on step four out of four because her motherboard is lower quality so she gets a little bit of droop no matter what. I regret the bundle deal I got with her setup. 
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Nov 5, 2020 03:03
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Xerxes17 posted:Until yesterday I was using the stock cooler with the original paste, but I've replaced that with a 212X and fresh paste now. Nice, now you want to pass like 10 mins of stress.
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Nov 5, 2020 03:34
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Xerxes17 posted:Well at the moment I'm currently going through the voltage adjustment process for temperature as a BIOS set 1.280, 1.270 or 1.260 gets the CPU running too hot straight off the bat. 73C is like super ideal, 75 or 77 isn’t really the end of the world or even 8OC if that only happens after 10 mins. Your cooler is on the smaller side but games will run cooler then stress tests. If you have the ability to change your computers case fan speeds I would turn that all the way up to 100% just to see what that does. or just take off the side and point a fan at it. If it doesn’t change anything then you might just be looking at the limits of your cooler. You can run OCCT in the background and graph your temperature while you play games. Edit: occt off of course, just graphing spunkshui fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Nov 5, 2020 |
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Nov 5, 2020 03:59
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VelociBacon posted:I upgraded the stock H115i Pro 140mm fans and the 120mm rad fan on my 2080ti hybrid kit to Noctua versions. Team fans for sound, not RGB! Now with silent fans you might notice soft fishtankish sounds from the AIOs 
spunkshui fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Nov 5, 2020 |
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Nov 5, 2020 05:39
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TheFluff posted:I'm not sure if I'm misunderstanding you, but C-states don't have anything to do with downclocking the frequency multiplier. That's speedstep or whatever Intel calls it. C-states are just a way for the CPU to turn parts of itself off when not in use, reducing power consumption while idling. They can be in use at any multiplier. Oh, well I learned something. Speed step seems to do nothing then. Ill have to investigate cstates when I can turn this thing off. Now that I googled what they are I kinda want to make sure they are off anyway since a quick google shows stability issues could exist. Idle power draw concerns are for laptops 
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Nov 5, 2020 08:09
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TheFluff posted:Turning off c-states for stability used to be a thing but it's not anymore. It has no meaningful effect for an overclock on ambient cooling. All you're doing by disabling them is making more fan noise when you're in any sort of non CPU intensive task (basically any desktop app). Probably not a huge difference but just leave them enabled. Im idling under 40 thanks to water so they might already be on but im down to see how low we can get this baby to idle. Xerxes17 posted:From the OP of this thread, or some other guide, I wrote down that the official Intel word for for sustained max temperature is 73℃ to avoid lifetime shortening/instability. But you are right, when stress testing like in P95, having it go up to even 90 is fine if the test isn't going for too long. And yes that "real world" temp from the test is indeed -20 from P95 bench. I'm not an expert (clearly) but this all sounds perfect to me, enjoy!
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Nov 5, 2020 08:37
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VelociBacon posted:I think at this point he should leave his LLC where it is and just adjust voltage. If he's near max on voltage and bumps his LLC up we don't know if it would be way too high at the CPU. /agree
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Nov 5, 2020 16:02
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Xerxes17 posted:Yep, the LLC is right now at "Very High" which is 75%, so the CPU-Z core voltage I'm getting is 1.288-1.296. Ram gains not worth it really but memtest86 for an hour is what I used when I lowed my 3600 CL18 ram to CL16. It found an error so I increased ram voltage by 1 step in thee bios and it went away. Maybe you can find some used DDR3 for ultra cheep in your area?
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Nov 6, 2020 02:51
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TheFluff posted:Turning off c-states for stability used to be a thing but it's not anymore. It has no meaningful effect for an overclock on ambient cooling. All you're doing by disabling them is making more fan noise when you're in any sort of non CPU intensive task (basically any desktop app). Probably not a huge difference but just leave them enabled. I checked, they are all on. Interestingly enough some of them are set to "don't report" but c7 is set to report. All are "enabled."
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Nov 6, 2020 02:53
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Xerxes17 posted:Well to be honest I'm confused on the utility of OC'ing or buying some better RAM because I keep reading comments along the line of "There is hardly any difference between 1600 and 1833 or even 2000". So if that's the case then messing with it seems pointless? I meant mostly for boredom reasons. Lotta people upgrading computers you might get lucky and snag something nice for $20 since its DDR3 stuff. 100% agree the gains are basically in the placebo effect range vs what just happened to the CPU.
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Nov 6, 2020 03:13
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Xerxes17 posted:Well, searching in the thread I found a link to this article: What you have on your side is time so if you’re curious you can wait for some kind of a deal. There is definitely a lot of people upgrading ddr3 systems right now. Ram overclocking is a lot more rare so used ram doesn’t seem too risky.
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Nov 6, 2020 04:02
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VelociBacon posted:GN is doing a liquid nitrogen overclock live on youtube right now Totally already planning to listen to that while I’m lesson planning tonight. I’m assuming my Apple Watch is going to tell me the second the election is over anyway. His streams are just so relaxing 
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Nov 6, 2020 04:31
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VelociBacon posted:I haven't been paying attention to anything AMD overclock related - it looks like it auto clocks itself based on temp? Is that right? Yeah like a Nvidia card. I also don’t know much about them because when I was shopping they didn’t OC well.
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Nov 6, 2020 04:49
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:What's a good beginner's guide to overclocking/tuning ram? I dont have a good guide but memtest 86 for an hour has been sufficient at proving errors wont happen in my experience of running OCed ram for a few months. All I have done is lowered CL18 to CL16 with some 3600 sticks. Just like a cpu, increasing the voltage 1 step made the errors go away. 1.35 to 1.35625V
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Nov 15, 2020 04:04
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Moly B. Denum posted:Memtest is good, but it doesn't test what happens when you dump heat into the case from a gpu running a game, which could increase memory temperatures enough to be unstable. The Electronaut posted:I’ve backed away from memtest. I like TM5 with whatever their names profile or Linpack. Had an OC that memtested to more than 500% seemed good for a very long time (months), CoD:MW poo poo on it. Seems like these are related. I have 6 fans, 3 in 3 out, on both our cases so GPU heat is a non issue for us. We also are only cooling 1070s Hoping the 3080 TI is more fun for overclocking then the rest of the 30 series.
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Nov 16, 2020 19:18
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Afterburner works on the 780, good guide. Its a good time of year to get into overclocking at least. Most people actually want a little more heat this time of year. My core temp while idle is down to 35C, gpu at 33C since its a modified founders and cant turn its huge fans off. My ram is warmer then both LOL.
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Dec 2, 2020 05:48
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literally this big posted:Thanks, I followed your guide and it improved my score significantly. Core Clock +80 was still giving me some weirdness, but +60 seems pretty stable . s it worth it to try fine-tuning to something more precise, like +70 or +75? I also have the option of prioritizing power or temperature for dynamic clock adjustment, does that matter at all? Sliders go all the way up for power and temp if thats what you are asking. We should also beef up the fan settings. At the bottom of Afterburner, open the settings and click the “Fan” tab. Check the "Enable user defined software automatic fan control". You can change the curve to however you prefer it but I recommend you delete all of points on the chart but two. 40°C something low like 30% or 25% fan (I cant go below 27% on mine) Then another dot at 100% fan at 70C. Just a big dumb diagonal line seems to do a great job at making sure fans actually respond to temperature. From there you can adjust that top and bottom dots so your card is tolerable while gaming and quiet while posting. If you want to tune for that extra 5 MHz out I would just make it pass a loop of haven for a half hour. Good way to heat up the house in the morning while you’re making breakfast. Its not like you need to stare at it while its doing its thing. (I do it anyway lol) spunkshui fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Dec 2, 2020 |
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Dec 2, 2020 09:09
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DO NOT DO EXTENDED MSI. I didn’t take the warning messages seriously on my wife’s old MSI card and I definitely loving killed it in like an hour after enabling it. Lucky for me the card was on it’s last leg and I was considering going to the store and buying a new one anyway so this just made me have to do it immediately. As for your settings: I would think we’re prioritizing for a maximum power delivery, not good temperatures. Then again the easiest trick in the book is to just try both with the benchmarking software and see which one gives you a higher score.
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Dec 2, 2020 16:23
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MagusDraco posted:Got a question. I have two friends with the same setup beyond except for different motherboards. It might be mounted on the cpu badly but it is a pretty easy system to use. Is it screwed all the way down? Do both of them have the ram running at the same speed? Are both in the same room or is one in a small room that might be getting warm? They most likely have different fan curves for their case fans and their cpu fans unless these were manually dialed in to be the same. I bet we are talking about different computer cases here too. Here are some things to try: Check to see if the cpu cooler mounting screw is fully turned. Increase case and cpu fan curves. Lowering the long term usage temperature of the room by opening doors and windows of the room. Investigate if the cpu cooler is somehow mounted wrong.
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Dec 24, 2020 21:00
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Testing CPU overclocks doesn’t take too long. If it can do 10 mins in OCCT, its fine. Step 1: see what speeds and voltages a few other people have managed online for your chip. 2: pick a speed 3: set a voltage 4: find your LLC setting and try one of the “higher” settings (you might also find people online with your mobo/cpu) 5: OCCT, watch voltage with cpu-Z OCCT requires no setup, just hit go and see if it detects an error or BSODs. If it crashes, more voltage. If voltage drops too much under load or shoots too high change LLC. If its too hot get a bigger cooler and more case fans or back off the speed / voltage.
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Dec 30, 2020 23:00
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