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Animal posted:Looks like watercooling is gonna become hip again for a lot of people Well, if you want to do zany overclocks custom water loops are the way to go. For off the shelf solutions a good air cooler still beats a good water cooler any day of the week.
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Apr 23, 2012 19:54
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Thermalright CLEARLY has the best looking fans.
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Apr 29, 2012 21:11
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Did you cut the mesh out? Can't see that mattering.
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May 2, 2012 15:45
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Just for reference, my wife's best friend has a 14 month old that crawls around and is pulling up, and the baby's pop has a 650D with the window just sitting on the floor. Worst I think that has happened is she has accidentally turned off the computer (she likes the lights  )
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May 2, 2012 16:11
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tijag posted:This is a good question. Although for me I'm not sure it matters. I have got my i5-3570k OC'd to 4.5ghz on all 4 cores with OCCT going for 10 minutes without any errors. Pretty darn good temps for 4.5, yeah.
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May 3, 2012 15:20
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Hiyoshi posted:So what you're referring to is the voltage difference between an intense 100% load and a light 100% load rather than the difference between a 0% load and 100% load, correct? Basically, yes.
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May 3, 2012 18:02
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Entreri posted:I'm upgrading from my stock E8400 and looking to get into overclocking with my next processor. Should I be looking at the 2500k SB or the 3570k IB? Whichever is cheaper.
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May 9, 2012 20:03
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Temps seem a little high for that overclock, but totally fine. Just keep an eye on them and your voltage if you bump it up. I don't see any reason not to go on and try it at 44.
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May 10, 2012 17:11
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zenintrude posted:I have a Hyper 212 EVO installed... is it likely that I applied paste incorrectly, or is my silly case to blame? It would either be the former, or that IVB just runs a bit hotter (though at that voltage I wouldn't think it would be that warm, but again it's not really anything to worry about). You can try cleaning and reseating it if you want to, but as long as you don't kick it much up over 72c (someone correct me if I'm wrong on this for IVB) on your hottest core, it's fine. Your case, while goofy looking, seems to have ok airflow. zenintrude posted:I used this, but it shows VID rather than Vcore... while HWiNFO64 was displaying my system at a VID of 1.27V, CPU-Z showed that my Core Voltage was 1.17V. hwinfo64 shows both vcore and VID. Hell, it shows pretty much everything. Vcore is what you want to look at, though. I think aisuite only shows the CPU package temp, which is somewhat lower than even the coolest core. Since you are most concerned with the warmest core, you need to be looking at something like hwinfo64 to get a baseline.
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May 10, 2012 20:16
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Sir Bobert Fishbone posted:Is it normal to have a fairly consistent 10 degree difference between cores at idle on IB? Or did I gently caress up my thermal paste application? Nah, the difference on my SNB is like 7C at idle. There's the one stupid hot core and the one core that lives next to the iGPU and uses it like an extra heat sink.
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May 12, 2012 18:53
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The best GPU cooling setups are still heat pipe, though. Vapor chamber just gets along real well with the default "blower exhaust all heat out of the computer because we don't trust the end user to have any airflow" design.
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May 13, 2012 04:34
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Agreed posted:Man, an extender for that ought to be packaged with PSUs. I always have to do some goofy poo poo like run it alongside the rear fan and tighten it to the fan with a zip-tie or something like that. And in this case, as a fellow NH-D14 ( See with the Archon your hand has plenty of room to grab the plug, and with the 650D and a seasonic based PSU there is plenty of room for the 8-pin to be pulled behind the motherboard tray 
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May 15, 2012 20:13
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) owner who did not plug in the 8-pin 'til the mobo and PSU were installed, let me tell you, plugging that barely-long-enough fucker in... was an unpleasant experience.
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KillHour posted:Noctua: More like 19-23dBA Airflow: 38-84CFM And I got two of those fans, so however you compound those numbers together They're practically silent under load despite what the 23dBA might suggest.
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May 15, 2012 20:59
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If there's one thing we can probably all agree on, it's that nickel plating is purty
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May 16, 2012 03:22
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Vinlaen posted:I'm using an i5 2500k on an ASUS Sabertooth P67 motherboard and I'd love to reach 5.0 GHz. Please read the OP
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May 18, 2012 14:52
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Allow me to be the lone voice advocating for needless fiddling. You know you want to.
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May 19, 2012 23:42
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chippy posted:I have what I think are high temps on my 3750K at stock speeds. The cooler is a Hyper 212 Evo and I'm seeing idle core temps of around 36 degrees and 60-65 under full load. This isn't leaving me a lot of headroom for overclocking, and for that CPU and cooler at stock speeds, these seem high, are they? Case is a Fractal R3 with the fans in stock configuration. 1) a stable low idle temp basically lets you know you didn't EGREGIOUSLY gently caress something up. those load temps do seem high for stock. 2) asus ai suite is awful for temp readings 3) i would uninstall ai suite and control the fan via the BIOS instead, which I believe also uses the package temp, but you can set it on "Turbo" and call it a day and have it work pretty well in my experience. 4) assuming it's a 212 EVO, it should hit 2000 RPM. see if uninstalling aisuite helps this problem by checking your fan speed during IBT or something.
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May 21, 2012 17:45
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chippy posted:Thanks, I'm going to have a fiddle, disable Fan Expert and try tightening things up. I've just noticed that OCCT is reding 3/4 degrees lower than RealTemp, any idea which is the more trustworthy? Hwinfo64 has been consistently accurate for me, and is generally recommended in this thread for monitoring during testing
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May 21, 2012 20:45
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From what I remember the center screw is there to apply pressure, but it's not adjustable. The center screw on my heatsink (Thermalright Archon) is adjustable and came with a goofy little wrench so that I can adjust the tension while mounted; however, the minimum force is the Intel spec so I hesitate to mess with it. My best advice is to just remove it, clean it real good, and try again, at this point. Maybe they changed up fans? Or maybe the fan RPM sensor is wrong? Who knows. Are you sure you have the CPU fan plugged into the right mobo header and you aren't looking at a case fan, or something?
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May 21, 2012 21:22
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Eh you might consider just replacing the cooler, that design isn't so great anyway.
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May 22, 2012 02:04
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CancerStick posted:It's definitely on my list, mainly because I don't like having it blowing up and waiting for the inevitable fan to die again. Yeah you're fine just replacing the fan in the meantime, those temps are fine.
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May 22, 2012 15:26
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I'm not around any windows machines right now, but my guess is that there is some setting under maximum performance (or whatever the no power saving options tier is called) that says "processor throttling: never", or words to that effect. I assume balanced is the default setting and you had switched it to something else.
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May 30, 2012 14:33
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Last one's from April, I think.
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Aug 17, 2012 19:07
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Alereon posted:Xbitlabs has posted a round-up of 135-150mm fans (practically, a bunch of 140mm plus the Thermalright TY-150). Predictably, the winners were the Thermalright TY-150 and the Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition. The TY-150 runs about $20 shipped and the AF140 is about $19. It looks like the AF140 is more expensive in most stores, so the TF-150 will probably be the better deal in most situations where it will fit. I have two TY-150s on my Archon and the TY-140 that came with my Archon as a rear exhaust and I cannot recommend them enough, although apparently they do not like being mounted horizontally so they aren't good as top/bottom fans.
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Oct 16, 2012 17:00
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Probably tough for a small shop to compete with all these pre-done closed loop systems that Corsair and the like put out
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Nov 1, 2012 17:49
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re: crazy fan photo- wouldn't having two fans next to each other like that cause turbulence and probably be less efficient?Cavauro posted:I was going to make a joke about wanting 7200RPM fans because clearly it's fine since hard drives go that fast. But I noticed Delta already makes them faster than that at 92mm. I had an 8000 RPM delta 80mm back in the day. Man I was a dumb kid.
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Nov 7, 2012 17:04
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John McCain posted:Not if they're designed properly. That's (almost) what axial-flow compressors are, after all. Right, but I meant in this specific case where you're just screwing two 120mm fans together and none of that is taken into account.
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Nov 10, 2012 19:34
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I think he posted in The Walking Dead TTG game thread semi-recently
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Nov 21, 2012 03:01
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It's not even as good as an Evo, so... yeah 
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Nov 22, 2012 17:32
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Seeing that sexy looking new closed loop thing from Swiftech (H220) has me thinking about looking at water cooling for the first time in years, since it seems like you get the performance of a custom solution, the ability to open it up if one were to say acquire a 780 with waterblock down the road, and how the pump(!) and fans have PWM for noise control.
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Feb 17, 2013 18:10
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Alereon posted:I've also been looking at the Corsair H110, their newest and highest-performing water cooler. I'm still not sure if any of the dual-fan water coolers can beat air at the same noise level, I have to think that if they could there would be a comparison showing that somewhere. I know the Swiftech H220 can beat high-end air, but it is a giant triple-fan setup. http://www.anandtech.com/show/6716/closing-the-loop-ii-new-liquid-coolers-from-corsair-and-swiftech/6 The H220 is a new dual fan design, as opposed to the H20-H220. The pump is louder, but more effective, and also you can turn it down via PWM apparently... edit: That anandtech review has it showing 30dba under both idle and load, also Dogen fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Feb 17, 2013 |
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Feb 17, 2013 19:47
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Alereon posted:Sorry, I got confused about Swiftech models, though on further review I probably wasn't even thinking of the H2O-H220 when I wrote that. I think you're giving the Swiftech H220 a bit too much credit here, it seems to epitomize the problems with water cooling: low performance, high noise, and a high price. The Anandtech review notes that the pump is very noticeable even at the lowest settings, and do keep in mind that because of how they did the measurements ALL products tested that aren't jet engines came in at <30dba so that doesn't tell you very much. The upgradeability of the H220 also seems overblown since the only component you can re-use for a graphics card is the pump, you still need a new radiator to dissipate 3-4X the heat of a CPU. http://www.xcpus.com/reviews/swiftech-h220-with-gpu-loop-added/2 They just slapped a waterblock on a GTX680 and ran some tests, so I don't really think you need another rad. I was thinking if one wanted to buy a GTX 680 or 780 whenever they come out from EVGA with one of their full coverage waterblocks preinstalled it would be cool, but yeah rest of your points taken- there is just no getting past pump noise with anything. I think I am just sad that I have this system pretty much as far as you can go within the bounds of quiet and need something to tinker with 
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Feb 17, 2013 21:24
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I was thinking of an EVGA water block model, they are full coverage as well. I glued heatsinks to VRM once in my life, never a loving gain.
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Feb 17, 2013 23:21
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I flipped the top fan on my 650D to intake and slapped one of those demciflex filters on it a while back and the case interior is near pristine, which I attribute to both positive pressure and having all filtered intakes.
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Feb 28, 2013 15:48
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GB_Sign posted:OK, put my stock setup through the paces to make sure it is good and stable. I think I am ready to start overclocking CPU and GPU. Right now the OP says updates are pending for the Ivy Bridge setup, is there anything special that needs to be taken into account other than what is stated for overclocking Sandy bridge? I thought I remembered reading that IVB should be limited to 1.2V-1.25V? Also, is it better to focus on CPU and then GPU or the other way around? 1) The OP hasn't been updated but this post in the thread has what you want: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3465021&pagenumber=9#post403126848 2) Doesn't really matter, just don't do both at the same time. Get one stable and then do the other.
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Mar 5, 2013 03:14
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I'm now even more interested in the Swiftech 220 (the newer one)
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Mar 15, 2013 15:51
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Good "I don't give a poo poo about money but I like quiet" heatsinks would also be something like a Thermalright Archon or a Noctua DH14. Bigger, slower spinning fans cooling a larger fin array. Set something up like that with a fan profile and you'll never hear it You'll still hear a 212 when it starts going, though it is by no means bad.
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Mar 17, 2013 14:30
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The newer ones do. I think the older one was more of a pain. Easier than the weird scissor bracket and tightening nut thing that my original Archon uses (I think Thermalright made some improvements for the later revisions)
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Mar 17, 2013 22:30
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They did starting with the 2011 compatible ones I think. My Archon does have the system you describe, I am just not a fan. I think they have changed it up to make it better since then, new revisions of the Archon and some others are out early this year.
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Mar 18, 2013 15:32
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Benjamin Black posted:Hey, remember that TOVERCLOCKER thing I mentioned? While the BIOS won't let me take the CPU ratio above 38, this utility will. Should I try it? Don't change it. Little gain and SB/IB don't take kindly with it being fussed with.
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Apr 1, 2013 05:28
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