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I feel weird being so messed up over the death of an inanimate object, but I have had this CR250 since it was new in 01. While only the frame was original I feel like the bike had a soul. Saturday 4 hours after the 14+th rebuild(6th bottom end) it grenaded on me. $1200 will have me up and running again, but I feel like it has given up as problems have begun to come more frequently. I pulled everything off the frame except for the case and tossed it in a hole under a new track section I am building. Yes I buried a bike. Ive owned many objectively ‘better’ new bikes these last 11 years but this CR was always the one I loved the most. I can't imagine being stuck with any of the nice bikes I have now for another 11 years. Has anyone else had a bike they were emotionally and financially attached to because they decided to keep it a decade past its prime? I imagine I am alone in feeling this way about a 'disposable' mx bike.
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Apr 19, 2012 03:43
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 17:04 |
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I am looking for some opinions on which pre08 250f has the most lowend grunt? My brother will be running my hybrid atv chassis in the youth 200/300 mod class this year, but I don't know enough about the 250Fs to choose a donor bike/motor. Our only real constrains are left side drive and it can't be a dual exhaust system like the CRFs since we trying to save cash and run stock exhaust if we can route it. edit: Trying to go Japanese preferably. KTM motors seem to get a pretty penny on ebay. tehk fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Apr 27, 2012 |
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Apr 27, 2012 00:07
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Motocross only on this machine since it running 50 inches wide. It was my backup last year but I got rid of it in favor of a pair of production machines so I could run more classes. Thanks for the link. KXf motors seem to be going cheap. Might be a good choice.
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Apr 27, 2012 01:12
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CRFs are great to work on. In 05 it was probably the best 250 in its class. My only concern would be the year. Around 08 most of the manufactures finally put some focus on getting the 250Fs to handle well. Previously they all seemed to take a back seat to the 450. So keep in mind that 05 was only the CRF250r's second year and they had lot of stupid mistakes they had to correct from the 04 so they couldn't put much focus on refining it. That only applies to MX of course. No clue how they do at SM.
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Jun 15, 2012 03:02
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I am about 3/4 of the way into a CR500AF build finally. Just awaiting bearings and a crank. Having never owned a 500 I am wondering what size flywheel weight should I be running in the sandy fast woods we have here? Also I am very interested in a Rekluse clutch. The increased weight of the auto clutch pack might negate some of the need for that flywheel weight like steel plates do, right? Anyone familiar with these?
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Jun 17, 2012 01:46
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19" wheels are also lighter which is important for MX because wheels are unsprung weight.
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Jun 25, 2012 14:57
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Have you considered a 144 mAlfunkti0n? Factory or not 140-150cc is a sweet spot for a lot of those motors when used with smaller riders. I don't know what kind of riding you do but if you are not worried about meeting any requirements I would go that route. Also how does a four stroke make you nervous? They are super predictable to the point of boredom. Unless you are nervous of future repair cost. edit: Husqvarna's cr125 comes with a 144 kit from the factory. Essentially giving you a second top end. Probably not worth the hassle of owning a husqvarna though. Lots of people make a 150/144 now so you have some options. tehk fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Jun 27, 2012 |
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Jun 27, 2012 01:13
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It is a double edge sword. One thing the transition of new racers from Supermini to Lites tells us is that the ease of carrying speed on the 250F often ends with kids riding above their head. Which is why a lot of people are advocating bringing 125s back to the forefront as a stepping stone.
tehk fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Jun 27, 2012 |
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Jun 27, 2012 01:31
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The 100 degree heat is keeping me in the garage as well. Riding here in NJ is going to be a bummer for a few months as we catch up on trail clean up from our recent storms. All my track and surrounding single track is covered with trees. So I've been focusing on a few bike builds until this weekend when I can use the new chainsaw mount I bought to service the tighter riding areas which are covered with large downed trees. A few weeks ago I picked up a crashed CR250 for super cheap and put around $700 into engine parts, a flywheel weight, and suspension valving/springs. I am still waiting on Enduro Engineering protection, and a new wheelset but in the end it will make for a nice backup bike with a fresh motor for significantly less than I could have purchased one. Pancaked before photo. Stator side case had a silver dollar sized hole at the bottom of the flywheel housing, but the motor ran fine.  I fixed the chassis at work after ultrasounding the frame to check for cracks. I remade a regulator/rectifier mount and installed new thicker core radiators with supports.  Fortunately I had a spare electronic power valve motor from my 500AF project that dropped right in. All I needed to get done was porting by Eric Gorr, a stealthy flywheel weight, and a PWK Air Striker carb to make the bike friendlier in the tight stuff. Can't wait to have it woods ready for this weekend. 
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Jul 19, 2012 01:52
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Newer Twin spar frames on MX bikes are pretty good in terms of access because you can quickly remove the sub-frame and airbox. The only pain is getting the airboot on without removing the exhaust first. The Gen1 and Gen2 CR aluminum frames were a lot worse since the spars had no curve to them and they blocked a lot more access points than the Gen3+ Honda frames which hug the engine and twist inward around the rear suspension mount. Good luck on that KX. I've never owned one but I hear they are a solid bike.
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Jul 19, 2012 23:06
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vollgasflorett stick with the DT until you decide you are serious about and comfortable riding off-road. You seem to be itching for a project which tells me the KDX is probably not for you though. If you spend a $1000 on a KDX you are in the same situation on that chassis as you are currently on your DT. It is like a time machine to the 80s. I am not saying it is a bad bike, but there are significantly better options. A purpose built bike like the KTM XC/XCF, CRF-X, or WR is the way to go. If you are on a budget converting a 2000+ lite MX bike is a good option, but suspension should be approached immediately. Just be ready to spend cash for guards, flywheel weights, and various other crap.
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Aug 21, 2012 01:54
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You have access to used models from 4 European brands that are not unchanged dinosaurs from the 80s like the KDX. If you have any wish to gently caress around on a backyard MX track do yourself a favor and buy a KTM EXC or Husqvarna WR. It won't be perfect but it will be more than enough for a new rider who is not going to be riding the track as fast as the kids do in the 50 mod class. You are lucky to have such a wide selection of good used off road bikes so take advantage of it. Perhaps you need to follow the Silver model.
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Aug 22, 2012 23:00
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Anyone familiar with KTM's warranty? Saturday I took my new 350 EXC-F out for its very first ride but ended up having to be towed back. About 10 miles into a state forest the clutch locks up and two bolts fall out holding the hydraulic unit onto the motor. I drop the bike at low speed after missing a tight turn that I needed to pop the clutch to get around but couldn't because the bike was currently stuck in gear and engine breaking had me slide 2 foot off the trial. I pickup the bike and replace the missing m6 bolts with some from the body work, but the bike will not start. Turns out the brass fitting for the gas/charcoal fume reburning system snapped due to a branch. The threaded hollow part inside the head was broken into three pieces but I was able to extract them using pliers. I didn't try starting it again because I suspected a part of the fitting may have fell into the engine.
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May 7, 2013 03:51
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My 350 EXC-F came back to me finally after a lot of engine work with the parts cost coming out of my pocket. Not having the bike for a few weeks gave me plenty of time to browse the net for about $2000 in bike protection, tire, controls, desmog, efi tuneing, and exhaust goodies. Finally the bike is quick, but it can't turn. Time for suspension work I guess. This is my first KTM and I've heard they ride a lot different than the Japanese bikes due to the triple clamp offsets and head angles. Is this true? Right now the bike pushes and is super stable(a bad thing). Any setup advice to make this thing twitchier and less of a sand plow on corners? No amount of clicker adjustment wants to make the front dig on corners even with the sag setup correctly which makes me think I need to switch clamps to get that feel I have had on Hondas for years.
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May 28, 2013 01:55
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Don't buy a first generation aluminum frame CR if you can help it. The motor is great and tunable using the many cylinders Honda used from 96 to 01, but it rides like limo in the woods and on the track. The subsequent frames really improved the handling and frame flex a ton. About a week ago I sold my immaculate 98 with a ton of creature comforts, upgraded suspension, stabilizer, new bottom end, and a spare cylinder for only $1300. Like JP Money said save $400 more and get a taken care of early 2000s 125/250 and run with that. I own 4 CR125/250/500AFs currently so when I talk you out of buying one that is saying something.
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May 28, 2013 23:08
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Sorry to hear that. I wasn't joking about this bike handling like a boat. If you need chassis setup advice let me know. The motor really is a great thing though if it was built right during the last bottom end replacement. When you eventually replace the cylinder go with a 00' which is the best all around cylinder. Don't replate since the 97/98 is all mid to top end and is pretty unrealistic. Another mod you might want to look into if you are as new as you say is a Stealthy flywheel. I would go with the middle weight option as the heavy one matched with the boat handling makes the bike unable to steer with the rear. That motor is probably the narrowest powerband setup for that era so you can't lug it and have to pin it out of every corner. Assuming the bike has stock reeds purchases VForce reeds. When you change the exhaust go with a Gnarly expansion chamber which will widen out the power a ton. Beware the oil fill level screw it is often stripped on these cases. Lastly the stator side cases on these bikes are not the strongest so run a poly skid even if you are using it on a track only.
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May 30, 2013 03:52
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I finally removed everything EXC from my new 350 and had the suspension handled by Works Enduro Rider. Still wish I lowered the rear shock 3/4" but I will just have to get used to the seat height of new bikes in tight stuff. The bike still feels really heavy coming from a TM EN250 and CR-AFs but a lighter battery and exhaust seemed to solve a lot of the high positioned weight issues that annoyed me.
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Jun 27, 2013 02:03
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Why a kx over a yz? For another $500 you could grab a latest generation YZ250 with a xc setup here. The advantage of the yz is that the bike is still competitive in the GNCC XC2 class and you get significantly more aftermarket support.
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Jun 28, 2013 22:08
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200lbs is the most common setup for any worked offroad suspension. I've owned both and the thing I liked the more about the 05+ YZ is that it was worlds nimbler and probably had the best steering of any of the end of era two strokes. The gearing on the kx was an issue. Couldn't find a nice medium for single track and open sand sections. No need for a flywheel weight on the YZ in the tight stuff since you can let out the rear and steer with the clutch much more than you could with the kx powerband. As for the aftermarket support it is less about unique upgrades than it is about options from multiple companies, availability, and lower prices. The YZ is basically the same bike for going on 9 years and for all of them it has been a vastly more popular off road bike so more companies have invested in making enduro parts. That said, if the bike fits you and you like it go for it. You are right that finding a bike ready for you is hard and summer is already here. tehk fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Jun 29, 2013 |
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Jun 29, 2013 01:17
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VTNewb posted:Everyone is telling me to skip the 350! Dunno what to do! I have a 350 EXC and with fuel management, exhaust, desmog, gearing, suspension, and a few cheaper tricks it begins to shine. If your riding style relies on lugging the bike down low get the 450. The 350 requires finesse similair to a two stroke but you get paid back in less fatigue after tight tracts. I would go with the 350xcf if I could do it again in a state with legal riding.
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Sep 11, 2013 03:31
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 17:04 |
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kenny powerzzz posted:It's amazing how a little bit of water on a trail will make an easily passable section a nightmare for a rider with my skill level(low). I was at a local motocross track a few weeks ago riding the woods trails and I had to turn around and go the wrong way on one way trails because I just couldn't stay upright. Meanwhile teenagers are just whipping by like it's not even sloppy. How slow are you going? New riders seem to slow down excessively out of fear when momentum and throttle control are the keys to buffing sketchy traction and mud ruts out. Mix that with body position and come home soaked.
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Dec 18, 2013 04:04
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