|
MrFurious posted:Start with your partner/roommate/whatever in another room. Lie down near the dog, have some treats and the clicker at the ready (I assume you guys have done at least some clicker training). Figure out where the dogs threshold is by having your roommate bang on the wall (or whatever) in your own apartment. Make sure you work UNDER that threshold. Barking gets no treats and no clicks. The whole basis of Premack is that acknowledging (but not wigging out over) the distraction earns a reward. As this idea takes hold, it becomes a game and the distracting object loses value as a distraction. Control Unleashed does go into the Premack principle quite a bit if my memory serves me right, but mostly in another context. Here's one of Leslie's videos on the LAT game as it is applied to Leave It training: http://youtu.be/POprQmrJ2Bc On Premack: http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/the-premack-principle Rixatrix fucked around with this message at 19:44 on May 1, 2012 |
# ? May 1, 2012 19:40 |
|
|
# ? Mar 29, 2024 15:11 |
|
Rixatrix posted:Just to clarify so no one gets confused, you're probably describing McDevitt's Look At That game applied to sounds. The Premack principle states that more likely behaviors can be used to reinforce less likely behaviors which happen just before. Examples of applying the Premack principle would be eating your vegetables so you get dessert or coming when called when a dog sees a squirrel, then being released to chase said squirrel. You're right, good post. Speaking of her book, she references that she teaches a loose heel and a "go away" signal at the same time, but I've never been able to find any information on that. It reads like she uses "go away" as a release, but I'm not sure that's the case. Has anyone seen any information on that?
|
# ? May 1, 2012 20:07 |
|
MrFurious posted:You're right, good post. Speaking of her book, she references that she teaches a loose heel and a "go away" signal at the same time, but I've never been able to find any information on that. It reads like she uses "go away" as a release, but I'm not sure that's the case. Has anyone seen any information on that? Yeah, she uses it as a release. She'll sit in an enclosed area, reward the dog for coming over/interacting with her/heeling for a few steps, then release it to go sniff or play until the dog chooses to come back and work some more. She goes over it a lot more thoroughly in the Control Unleashed Puppy Program book. vv Yep, that's it. Maybe you could try with just a long line instead of a barrier? Instant Jellyfish fucked around with this message at 20:29 on May 1, 2012 |
# ? May 1, 2012 20:14 |
|
Instant Jellyfish posted:Yeah, she uses it as a release. She'll sit in an enclosed area, reward the dog for coming over/interacting with her/heeling for a few steps, then release it to go sniff or play until the dog chooses to come back and work some more. She goes over it a lot more thoroughly in the Control Unleashed Puppy Program book.
|
# ? May 1, 2012 20:23 |
|
Rixatrix posted:I think she calls this the Give Me a Break game? I've been thinking of using this to deal with Rho's reactivity in high distraction situations, but I think I'd need an x-pen or something to get us started and I haven't gotten around to getting one. I absolutely love using an x-pen for reactivity stuff, especially when it involves leash reactivity. Being behind an x-pen seems to take a ton of pressure off of Psyche, she obviously feels like the x-pen is keeping her safe as opposed to the leash, which we use to keep others safe, but pretty much makes things worse for her. We've made a ton of progress using an x-pen, particular in our house where things are cramped and she feels territorial. We've successfully used a long line before as well, but if there's any leash reactivity, Rho may feel better about an x-pen over a long line. Of course it could go the other way for a dog that's used to fence fighting or has barrier reactivity.
|
# ? May 2, 2012 00:23 |
|
I want to thank you all for the tips, we'll try working on it and see if we can tie hearing sounds to going over and lying down by the speaker. Also, I got a nagging feeling when Control Unleashed was mentioned, I go through my book case and realize I have a translated edition of it that I haven't even opened .
|
# ? May 2, 2012 10:07 |
|
Argh, Tater. So here's Tater's digs for when I'm out of the apartment: The pen is wrapped around and hugs the walls at the ends which makes escape pretty difficult (he hasn't even tried it as far as I know). The doggy door is always available and leads to a covered cement patio which has his astroturf tray for eliminating, although he prefers to poop on the cement (which I like too). Now his record so far since I built this up for him is spotless, while he's inside the pen. He got the concept of the tray right away, and more than once I've seen him use the doggy door to go out and eliminate without prompting. Outside the pen, however, is another matter. I more or less dismantle the pen when he's out of it to make sure he knows he can get out, and when I put it up at first he seemed to get it, but now when I'm playing with him and turn my head for an instant he's over by the dining table eliminating away. I know he knows he can get out when the pen isn't set up because I've seen him do it, but he's regressed over the last couple days. Frustrating! Not sure if I really have a question or not as I have a feeling this'll just take time. I just set it up Friday and he's only 17 weeks so I can't expect him to be fully housebroken yet. Won't stop me from ranting though. Argh, puppies!
|
# ? May 2, 2012 15:27 |
|
Eegah posted:Go over the housetraining guide again. Every time he makes a mistake, he's strengthening that behavior. Get your egg timer and get on the ball with the housetraining. This is not him struggling, this is you struggling.
|
# ? May 2, 2012 15:45 |
|
Yeah I think you're right. I'm getting thrown off by how well he's doing with the doggy door when he's in the pen and I'm getting complacent. Think what I really need to do is integrate the egg timer with me going out the door and getting him to figure out that yes, he can use the door when he's not in the pen.
|
# ? May 4, 2012 05:41 |
|
a life less posted:I would either have him trail a light leash indoors so you can grab it and affix it to a table leg, or set up tether stations where the leash is pre-fixed to the table and you attach a misbehaving puppy to it for a time out. I'm starting to have success with adapting Dr. Dunbar's "Red Light/Green Light" tactic for leash training. Just stand there in the flannel PJs that seem to be his favorite, then when he sits down and looks at me click/treat, then take a step and repeat. He learned pretty fast and while he'll forget tomorrow it'll be a little easier for him to catch on. Suppose I can try another round of training after he's done humping his stuffed rabbit. Honestly Tater that's like twice in an hour, you'll wear yourself out!
|
# ? May 4, 2012 05:45 |
|
I just have a small question about doggy humping. Campbell hasn't ever done it, should I be concerned about that? Is that weird? He's almost 9 months, and we meet all these puppies at 5/6 months that are humping everyone, and he has never done it. Not that I am complaining ofcourse, I just want to know if thats normal?
|
# ? May 4, 2012 10:54 |
|
tiddlez posted:I just have a small question about doggy humping. Campbell hasn't ever done it, should I be concerned about that? Is that weird? He's almost 9 months, and we meet all these puppies at 5/6 months that are humping everyone, and he has never done it. Not that I am complaining ofcourse, I just want to know if thats normal? Be proud of your dog. Some people consider humping normal dog behavior. It's definitely considered bad manners at the dog park. My dog is a small golden retriever, so she is always a prime target for humping, and I am frequently hip-checking dogs off of her while their bimbo owners look on with drooling smiles. Generally, I believe it's a sign of poor or under-socialization of the dog doing the humping. You might also look to see how many of those humping puppies have been neutered, though, as I'm sure there's a correlation with testosterone levels.
|
# ? May 4, 2012 14:36 |
|
Good to hear. Campbell is still un-neutered. Are they likely to do it more when un-neutered? I will have a wee look-see next time I'm at the park and meet a humpy puppy.
|
# ? May 4, 2012 14:38 |
|
tiddlez posted:I just have a small question about doggy humping. Campbell hasn't ever done it, should I be concerned about that? Is that weird? He's almost 9 months, and we meet all these puppies at 5/6 months that are humping everyone, and he has never done it. Not that I am complaining ofcourse, I just want to know if thats normal? Humping is both a hormonal issue, and a behavioural one. Dogs can hump because they're feeling horny, or because they're looking to elicit attention, or to pull rank with other dogs. Is he intact? If so, he may be slow to develop. If not, he may just not have developed that behaviour. He very well may start humping in the future. Time will tell.
|
# ? May 4, 2012 14:41 |
|
MrFurious posted:Some people consider humping normal dog behavior. In spite of being a part of a dog's normal behavior repertoire, I still don't encourage it in my own dogs. Humping people has never been attempted by my dogs since early puppyhood and I'll interfere if there's obvious bullying between dogs going on.
|
# ? May 4, 2012 15:15 |
|
Tater thankfully keeps it to his stuffed rabbit that's about as big as he his and hasn't tried humping anything else so far. At least it tires him out vv Obviously humping pretty much anything else (and especially any animate object) will not be tolerated.
|
# ? May 4, 2012 16:15 |
|
Rixatrix posted:It is absolutely normal dog behavior. In some situations it's rude dog behavior, but still completely normal. If a dog is using humping as a way to elicit attention, then it's really rude to most other dogs (but still not abnormal).
|
# ? May 5, 2012 07:56 |
|
My dogs only hump each other after they've had baths. Then they're like, "WHO ARE YOU. ARE YOU A GIRL? ARE YOU A LADY? HI. HI GIRL." They always look really confused like they don't know what's come over them.
|
# ? May 5, 2012 12:40 |
|
How long after the 3rd round of shots (parvo booster I think among others) is it safe for a puppy to go out pimpin'? Tater's is two weeks from Wednesday and I'm trying to see if he can get some serious dog time in over Memorial Day weekend.
|
# ? May 9, 2012 03:04 |
|
Eegah posted:How long after the 3rd round of shots (parvo booster I think among others) is it safe for a puppy to go out pimpin'? Tater's is two weeks from Wednesday and I'm trying to see if he can get some serious dog time in over Memorial Day weekend. Depends on who and where -- I covered this in the OP. If they are dogs you know have had their vaccinations, you're pretty safe. If you've had your first set of shots, you're still pretty safe. At the Humane Society where my wife and I teach, puppy kindergarten just requires that they've had their first round of vaccinations and we encourage them to get in there as soon as possible because of the socialization benefits. My advice to you would be not to wait. The risk of pathogen is fairly minimal at this stage, and the benefits to training outweigh the risks. As stated in the OP, if you have a good Puppy Kindergarten class available to you, enroll as soon as possible.
|
# ? May 9, 2012 14:37 |
|
We're meeting a 2 year old female lab/rottweiler tonight that a family from Kijiji (Canadian craigslist) is giving up. This dog isn't spayed and hasn't had any shots beyond her puppy boosters. If we adopt her, do we just take her to the vet and say "some people didn't take great care of this dog, we don't really have papers for her but they told us she had her first round of shots, give us the works!" Would it be a good idea to have her get used to us and our house for a few days before we take her to the vet? We've had lots and lots of foster dogs so we know generally what to expect from bringing an adult dog into our house but this will be our first forever dog so the longer term stuff like vet visits and boarding are newer to me.
|
# ? May 9, 2012 14:52 |
|
I would see if you could get the name of the vet who gave the dog its puppy shots, and try to arrange they forward their records on to your current vet. I'd let the dog get used to her new environment for a few days before running her off to the vet unless there's a indication that she needs medical attention. Don't wait more than a few days, because a dog who's had her rabies vaccine lapse shouldn't be out and about in public (not because she could contract the disease, but because if she bites anyone/anything that'd be the end of her). If you can't get the records, just explain the situation to the vet as you said, and see what they suggest. You'll probably get boosters for all the basic shots, flea and heartworm meds, and be sent on your way.
|
# ? May 9, 2012 15:29 |
|
I adopted my friend's awesome dog (a border collie named Riot) about a month ago and things are going great, but yesterday she developed a problem. I took her out and played ball with her for a while when I got home from work, then went inside and started making dinner. The whole time I was cooking, Riot wouldn't walk beyond the threshold of the kitchen. I thought maybe she was just passive-aggressively telling me we should go back out and play, but when I called her over, she would take a couple tentative steps, whimper, sniff the floor, then back up into the other room. After picking her up and carrying her into the kitchen, I realized that for some unknown reason, she can no longer walk on the hardwood floor. She constantly slips and scrambles to stay on her feet or just falls down. Up until this point, she would cheerfully run through the kitchen with no problem. Could it be that her toenails are getting too long and making her slip? Or maybe her foot fur? Nothing about the floor has changed recently.
|
# ? May 10, 2012 12:53 |
|
micnato posted:I adopted my friend's awesome dog (a border collie named Riot) about a month ago and things are going great, but yesterday she developed a problem. I took her out and played ball with her for a while when I got home from work, then went inside and started making dinner. The whole time I was cooking, Riot wouldn't walk beyond the threshold of the kitchen. I thought maybe she was just passive-aggressively telling me we should go back out and play, but when I called her over, she would take a couple tentative steps, whimper, sniff the floor, then back up into the other room. After picking her up and carrying her into the kitchen, I realized that for some unknown reason, she can no longer walk on the hardwood floor. She constantly slips and scrambles to stay on her feet or just falls down. Up until this point, she would cheerfully run through the kitchen with no problem. You nailed it. She's worried about the floor and doesn't like it because she can't get any traction on it. There are a few things you can do. Make sure her nails are trimmed properly and frequently to start. Also make sure her paws are trimmed, as you said. You can also grab some cheap throws or mats and throw these down in the kitchen so she has something to walk on.
|
# ? May 10, 2012 14:35 |
|
We had a foster dog (a border collie cross) that would NOT walk on our kitchen floor (linoleum) when we first got him. I think the first day we had him he went careening into the kitchen and took a nasty spill and after that he just wouldn't do it. Further to that, he was so scared of it that he would act crazy if you lead him on to it on his leash (you have to go through the kitchen to get to the backyard) and make himself fall again, which was just reinforcing the problem more and more. We fixed it by getting super high value treats and placing them further and further into the kitchen. Never had a problem after that, I think it only took one session but we're talking people-food level treats. Now for my own question: we're adopting the dog that I mentioned above. The guy who's getting rid of her lost his job and can't afford to keep her and as such he said he's been feeding her pretty cheap food. I would of course like to get her on one of the PI recommended brands but I'm wondering if it's going to be too much of a shock to go from crap to the good stuff. Even if I'm going to slowly introduce the new food with the mixing strategy would it be a good idea to get an intermediary bag like Costco brand or should we just start switching her to the good stuff right away? "Please don't make me have diarrhea!" prom candy fucked around with this message at 14:56 on May 10, 2012 |
# ? May 10, 2012 14:53 |
|
Just switch to the new food you're going to feed gradually. Start with a 10-90 mix, then go 25-75 after a couple of days, then 50-50, etc. I usually wait to make sure there aren't any poop issues and it usually takes between a week or two.
|
# ? May 10, 2012 16:27 |
|
Makes sense. The people at the pet food store also said to switch very slowly. Can I introduce this dog to my friend's dog who I know is up to date on her shots or should I completely minimize her contact with other dogs until she gets needled next week?
|
# ? May 10, 2012 20:47 |
|
prom candy posted:Makes sense. The people at the pet food store also said to switch very slowly. I think that strays into the boundaries of advice we're not officially qualified to give. You'll have to balance the socialization/pathogen risk decision and come up with something you're satisfied with.
|
# ? May 11, 2012 14:32 |
|
I decided not to risk it. She's getting her rabies and round one of her boosters on Monday, it can wait until then.
|
# ? May 11, 2012 15:44 |
|
MrFurious posted:Depends on who and where -- I covered this in the OP. If they are dogs you know have had their vaccinations, you're pretty safe. If you've had your first set of shots, you're still pretty safe. At the Humane Society where my wife and I teach, puppy kindergarten just requires that they've had their first round of vaccinations and we encourage them to get in there as soon as possible because of the socialization benefits. What I figured, thanks. Unfortunately the one decent trainer I can find here in Sacramento (why are there so few here?) only has her kindergarten class up to 16 weeks and Tater's 18, so off to some place in Davis I guess. In other news, dammit Tater I'm feeding you all this pumpkin and I still caught you eating your poop last night
|
# ? May 11, 2012 16:29 |
|
Eegah posted:What I figured, thanks. Unfortunately the one decent trainer I can find here in Sacramento (why are there so few here?) only has her kindergarten class up to 16 weeks and Tater's 18, so off to some place in Davis I guess. I'm not sure pumpkin is going to curb poo eating. Try pineapple, or other stool-bittering agents that are sold in pet stores. Or consider changing his diet.
|
# ? May 11, 2012 16:31 |
|
I'll give pineapple a shot, thanks. Can't change his food anytime soon unfortunately -- I have ~7 lbs left of Nature's Variety left and the little guy doesn't really eat all that much. Plus that's the only puppy chow they make and I dunno if I want to switch brands already -- this is already the third brand he's had in a month, which may be part of the problem as well.
|
# ? May 11, 2012 16:37 |
|
I'm adopting my first dog-that's-all-mine, i.e. the first dog I'm going to have to train on my own and live alone with. She's an approximately 6-month-old 15-pound shelter rescue mutt who seems very sweet, calm, friendly, didn't bark, not hyper, etc. and I get her tomorrow! She was a stray so I'm guessing she has no training, but I guess I'll find out. I am reading all this puppy literature and I am getting nervous! All the puppy stuff talks about doing this and that before X weeks of age, and this dog is 6 months old. Not full grown but not a wee baby. Are there any good books/tips/online resources for Your First Days With Your Not Quite Puppy? Any differences at all in crate training/housebreaking? (I found some certified trainers nearby, will surely call them after the weekend)
|
# ? May 12, 2012 01:04 |
|
Eegah posted:What I figured, thanks. Unfortunately the one decent trainer I can find here in Sacramento (why are there so few here?) only has her kindergarten class up to 16 weeks and Tater's 18, so off to some place in Davis I guess. There are a lot of good trainers in Davis, come on we're not THAT far away.
|
# ? May 12, 2012 05:31 |
|
Yeah, I emailed Nancy Abplanalp this morning with a bunch of questions but haven't heard back yet. Hoping I can get Tater in for this Sundays class. We hit up a friends barbecue tonight which sported four other dogs, one of which he'd met before. Other dogs don't seem to like him that much. Oh well, just gotta keep trying.
|
# ? May 12, 2012 06:27 |
|
Etheldreda posted:I'm adopting my first dog-that's-all-mine, i.e. the first dog I'm going to have to train on my own and live alone with. She's an approximately 6-month-old 15-pound shelter rescue mutt who seems very sweet, calm, friendly, didn't bark, not hyper, etc. and I get her tomorrow! In my experience adult dogs will pick things up fairly quickly. The biggest difference is that you may have to break some bad habits (if they had a previous family that fed them at the dinner table or allowed jumping or whatever). I was never able to get any of our fosters who spent time in shelters to be okay with the crate, but we never had any of them for longer than two or three weeks. Some of them would accept it but you could tell they didn't like it. Besides that I was able to get most of them behaving well pretty quickly after their arrival.
|
# ? May 12, 2012 06:32 |
|
My wife and I brought home a 6 week old puppy for the weekend to see if it would be compatible with our house and the 2 cats we already have. It was pretty incredible and well behaved during all the daylight hours, but both nights it stayed up until about 6am whining. The OP says that puppies should be with their parents until 8 - 10 weeks ideally, so we have called back and asked if the person we got it from would be willing to let him stay with the rest of the litter and mom for another 2 weeks at least. I have never had a dog before (always been a cat person), is this something that sending him back for another few weeks with his brothers and sisters is likely to help with, or am I grasping here?
|
# ? May 13, 2012 14:37 |
|
In many areas selling a dog before 8 weeks is against the law and I would never give someone money for a puppy that they were selling that young. Those two extra weeks are where they learn bite inhibition and proper dog social behavior. Right now the puppy is just an infant so of course he's going to cry through the night in a new place away from his family for the first time. In two weeks he might be better but it might also be something that's going to take a while to go away. Really though, I would run away from this breeder.
|
# ? May 13, 2012 15:47 |
|
Instant Jellyfish posted:In many areas selling a dog before 8 weeks is against the law and I would never give someone money for a puppy that they were selling that young. Those two extra weeks are where they learn bite inhibition and proper dog social behavior. Right now the puppy is just an infant so of course he's going to cry through the night in a new place away from his family for the first time. In two weeks he might be better but it might also be something that's going to take a while to go away. Thanks! It is my wife's sister's mother-in-law who happened to have a batch of labradoodles, so it isn't a from a breeder really. We talked to her and she is OK with us sending the puppy back for another few weeks, though we will likely make some trips down to visit and keep up a relationship with the puppy for that time to hopefully further ease into the transition. Please let me know if getting puppies this way is a bad idea for some reason. I have never really wanted to go to a breeder as I would prefer to rescue. This one just happened to fall into our laps and was a labradoodle, which is one of the few dogs I am particularly fond of due to my landlord having the best dog in the world and it being a labradoodle. Asnorban fucked around with this message at 14:38 on May 14, 2012 |
# ? May 13, 2012 16:08 |
|
|
# ? Mar 29, 2024 15:11 |
|
^^ Yes, run away is your best bet. A good dog breeder wouldn't be giving dogs away at 6 weeks EDIT: or breeding labradoodles. quote:So when should you go knock on the breeder's door to pick up your puppy? First, the answer depends on the breeder and on how he/she treats the bitch and the pups. If it's the puppy factory alluded to earlier, where pups got little or no human contact from birth until you arrived to pick out your pup, seven weeks is already too late. If you must deal with such a breeder, and I can think of no reason why you would, six weeks is the oldest if you hope to save the pup. With the rapid onset of the fear response at seven weeks, every day after six weeks old increases the probability of the pup suffering because there is a lack of human contact. The dog, depending on inherited temperament and breed, will be impossible or at best extremely difficult to train, may be a fear-biter, surely will be people-shy, and will act like a wild canid generally if left in the litter with no human contact for its first 12 weeks. That's from an article printed in 1994 in Gun Dog to counter the entrenched belief that you should always take a puppy home on the 49th day, here's the whole thing: http://www.shorthairs.net/AboutGSPs/Whentogetyourpuppy/tabid/230/Default.aspx.
|
# ? May 13, 2012 16:15 |