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Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

uptown posted:

I'm not a fan of "dump food on the floor and hope he doesn't get too much spit on there."
Dump the food on the grass outside and let him sniff around to find it? It'll give him a chance to "work" for his food, which is always good. Dogs don't really need bowls anyway.

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Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

Hammid posted:

Hey all - I've lurked this thread for a while in preparation for my new puppy that I got this past Thursday evening. I want to say this thread and the reading material have been incredibly informative.

Duke is an 8 week old lab/terrier mix who is super adorable (will post photos when I get home), but I am having real issues with what I believe to be separation anxiety. If I leave him in his ex-pen and try to walk more than a few feet, he will start whining and eventually barking if I move far enough away. I turn my back to him and don't go back to him until he stops whining for 10 secs or so, but I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions. I am hoping its just the transition process of a new house/owner, but its kind of wearing me out. I've tried to make his crate/pen super fun and playful, but it just isn't settling in at the moment. Any thoughts?

This is my first time owning a puppy and I really enjoy him, and I guess I thought I was prepared for everything, but the little guy is just exhausting at times.
All puppies are exhausting so don't worry, things are probably the way they should be. From what you're telling me it doesn't sound like separation anxiety. Your puppy just doesn't know the way of the world yet. My latest puppy would *scream* bloody murder when he ended up on the "wrong" side of the puppy gate, i.e. the side he didn't want to be on. I just carried on with my business and waited him out until he was calm, or in other words given up and settled. Now he's 9 months old and he'll quickly go to sleep if I put him away, because that's what he's used to. Wear ear plugs if you have to.

Try to make the ex-pen a super nice place and give the pup cool things to do when he's there that he doesn't get otherwise. Feed him in there, give him extra special long-lasting treats when he's there (meaty bones, frozen kongs etc).

Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

Trauma Tank posted:

I'd like a dog with relatively low energy requirements, such as a half hour walk/jog/run a day, with up to an hour or so of active play and training at home. The house I'll be moving to is a fairly small bungalow with a decent-sized enclosed garden. The dog would need to be able to deal with being on its own for extended periods of time, as I work full-time. I have the option of coming home during my lunchtime as I don't live far from work, however it would likely only be for twenty minutes, some of which I will have to spend on my own lunch, not interacting with the dog. In the case of me not coming home at lunch time the time spent alone would be around eight and a half hours maximum, if I came home then maybe four hours.
Retired racing greyhounds seem to be a popular recommendation in PI for someone looking a mellow dog. IIRC they even have their own thread, look it up!

Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

Serella posted:

See, the things is, these two things don't jive in my mind. I can't think of many reasons to send a puppy off to a new home at less than weeks, and 10-12 is optimal by most reputable breeders' standards. In many places, taking a puppy away from it's mother at under 8 weeks is actually illegal, so who would do it? I don't know, maybe it's just a fluke and they did proper health testing and such, but it really stands out as a bad practice.
I've brought all my three puppies home on the day they turned seven weeks, all from three reputable breeders who health test and all that. While I wouldn't have minded waiting a week longer, I fully understand why you might not want a litter of highly active, not house broken puppies running around your home for any longer than necessary (and seven weeks is the legal limit here). I might have had to work a bit harder on teaching bite inhibition, but that's pretty much the only issue we've had that I can tell.

wackoclown, I'm sorry for what you've been through. I hope the ophthalmologist has good news for you.

Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

I've always walked my puppies for as long as they want to keep going, but only off lead so they could set their own pace. When I could tell they were getting tired, I'd carry them for a little bit or head home.

Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

Alfajor posted:

Just got home from work, and my wife is reporting that our 10 month old mini-Aussie (weighing about 12 lbs) had "garlic breath" earlier today. I don't smell it now, but we're worried she might have eaten some and now she's starting to digest it.
If she did eat garlic, it wasn't a full clove, but little bits that flew from the grill as I was chopping it up last night outdoors.

From what I've read, it takes almost days for a full reaction, but in the meantime, what can I do to mitigate possible trouble? Give her lots of water or food to dilute? Exercise a lot, or avoid exercise altogether?
I'll be looking out for weirdness on behavior, puking or changes in stool, but I'm mostly wondering what can be done now.
Call your vet if you're worried is the best advice I can give.

I am not a vet, but I know lots of people who give chopped garlic to their dogs in the belief it will somehow repel ticks. None of those dogs has died as a result of ingesting garlic yet. I believe the amount a dog has to eat for toxicity to come up is quite big, although who knows, there may be subclinical hematological alterations. The amount your dog ate doesn't seem that big.

DISCLAIMER: I think the people giving garlic to dogs as a tick repellent are mistaken at best and idiots at worst. Don't give garlic to your dog. It's not good for him.

Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

Fraction posted:

Is it normal/ okay for dogs to lie down with their legs kind of splayed out in front of them? Lola never lies down like that, and neither did Jess, but Kalli often lies with her elbows kind of set out in front of/beside her. (Wow that is hard to explain.)

She also often moves both of her back legs simultaneously, like a bunny hop. Lola has always done that and I once got it checked out, but apparently that's normal too?

I don't want my puppy to break omg :ohdear:
The bunny hop is probably due to her age. It's normal for puppies but not for older dogs and it's definitely a cause for concern if a dog didn't do it before and has now started to do it. Sukka is now 10 months and is kind of growing out of his hop at the moment. He has a nice trot, but when he gallops it's usually both back feet moving simultaneously until very recently (or unless he's going very fast).

I'd wager her floppy elbows are due to her being very young, immature and flexible. I call Sukka the puppy a rubber chicken with hair because he's ridiculously bendy.

Disclaimer: I am not a vet, but I am a dog sport sperg and went to a seminar on normal dog movement not too long ago and then promptly took Sukka to a PT to be checked out because of bunny hopping and silly sitting poses. Diagnosis: normal puppy with a nice structure in the making. Treatment: balance and core strength exercises, give it time.

Rixatrix fucked around with this message at 12:31 on May 27, 2013

Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

TShields posted:

he'll do nothing but run for the mulch, get pulled away, run at a different angle, get pulled away, run find a weed or something to gnaw on, get pulled away.. it's madness. He wasn't like this 2 days ago. Help?
Sounds like he's having fun. Limit his access to these things in some way and give him more acceptable alternatives to chew on. He'll forget about it soon enough. Obviously the leash isn't working, can you fence stuff temporarily? Or when he's on leash, distract him so that he doesn't think about the forbidden stuff?

That said, dogs will sometimes chew on sticks, eat mulch or grass (and then puke it up on your bed or your best throw rug). It's no biggie, it's just what dogs do.

Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

Away all Goats posted:

He never lefts his leg to pee. Ever. He kind of just lowers his crotch and goes, which is kind of annoying when he stops randomly on our walks until I hear/see the pee. Now I googled around and found that lifting a leg to pee is kind of a dominance/marking territory thing, and that a dog that only pees through the crouch method tend to be submissive and kind of a wussy (frankly, a very accurate description of my pup). I suppose this is a good thing because I definitely don't want an aggressive dog that I'm constantly disciplining or having problems with.
My puppy is an obnoxious rear end in a top hat teenager who challenges the gently caress out of other dogs if I let him. He never lifts his leg to pee even though he's not neutered. This annoys me to no end, because more often than not he ends up peeing on one of his forelegs.

Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

TShields posted:

What's good dog-walking etiquette?
Do not let your dog approach another dog without asking first. If someone goes out of their way to avoid you and your dog, do not approach them at all.

Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

Eau de MacGowan posted:

I'm talking about taking running leaps to headbutt walls, nipping at everything he can find, way more than just 'I'm glad I'm out of the pen'. It's like nothing I've ever seen - is this kind of 'dual personality' normal in a puppy?
It sounds pretty normal for a 4 mo puppy, though my puppies have been more or less stuck in the "loving mental" stage until they grew out of it months later. Tape your pup doing this and post the video and it would be easier to tell? Be happy he knows how to settle in his pen, it's a handy skill for a dog to have.

Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

Goonicus posted:

Running off concrete isn't much of an option. I'm willing to wait until 18-24 months or whatever is accepted.
If you can't avoid hard surfaces, definitely wait until the dog is at least 18 months. If you can, ask for advice from someone with experience with mastiffs/dobies. If you can find one, a good, reputable breeder should be sympathetic to questions like that even if the dog isn't pure bred. If I were you, I'd also want to have the dog's hips and elbows checked before starting. It's a heavy set breed mix and you're planning on repetitive exercise on hard surfaces, which is a strain even for healthy joints on a lighter built dog.

Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

Riiseli posted:

Indeed. I never said anything about amounts, but one shouldn't feed meat a whole lot. I've never had problems, but I use meat in small quantities and not daily through out their puppy hood. I've raised seven litters roughly along these instructions with no problems. Not all grew up to have perfect hip scores, but that wasn't to be expected per their pedigree.
Also you breed middle sized dogs so I guess the pups are less prone to develop problems maybe? At least compared to large breeds.

I've raised puppies on Eukanuba puppy formula, Orijen and whatever kibble was on offer at the pet store (at least Robur, a whatsitsname brand I'd never heard of before and Brit Care were used when Sukka was growing up). All pups were fine and not even Pi was gross and oily even though he was on Eukanuba.

Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

I agree with Super.

My first dog came from a breeder that kept the pups in an outside kennel from about 5 weeks until people took them home. Second pup came from a breeder where the pups grew up inside, were handled daily from day one and were given every opportunity to develop their senses, motor skills and social skills from the start (including Bio Sensor type stuff). The third one came from a sheep farm from a litter of 8 where the pups had daily interaction with people but in a relatively straightforward manner and lived outside as much as possible because cleaning after 8 puppies is a loving chore.

My first dog has poor doggie social skills because I didn't have enough sense to socialize him better to other dogs when he was little. The middle dog grew up to be a sound sensitive, neurotic little thing (very VERY sweet though) and the third one probably has the best temperament of my three. As long as the puppies have daily, pleasant contact with people and are well looked after, I don't see how it could make much of a difference as long as we're talking about little puppies.

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Rixatrix
Aug 5, 2006

Chin Strap posted:

What are some signs that a dog is actually way too hungry still? I can't rely on "wanting food" as a sign because that is just a sign of being a dog.
For my dogs it's when they're being restless, whining, obnoxious, staring, pawing, willing to steal anything that's remotely edible, counter surfing assholes = feed more or switch to a less energy dense kibble (that I can give more of so they'll feel more satisfied even though they're not eating more calories). "Oh look food I'm def interested" = being a dog.

I'm with a life less on only judging the calorie intake of my dogs on their body condition. If I can see ribs, they're too skinny (they have thick coats), but I want to feel the ribs easily when I touch their sides.

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