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Great new thread, Furious! It's so sparkling and informative! 
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Mar 11, 2012 19:25
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Veskit posted:I will Try this next time and see how it goes. Look up crate games videos on YouTube. Also, try looking for a book called I'll Be Home Soon, you can get it pretty cheap on Amazon, but it'll help you nip the separation anxiety in the bud by understanding it better. Good luck!
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Jul 23, 2012 23:21
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Take the dog for a jog, it stimulates the bowels. I once had a foster that held it in for three days because her system was so messed up from her terrible allergies she had explode butt the first few days with us. As soon as,she could hold it, she did. Took about an hour and around 2-3 miles to finally get her to go but we all felt better for it. 
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Jul 31, 2012 05:10
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Scrubber posted:A little from column A, a little from column B? You might need to step in calmly to give your older dog a break if she is clearly getting uncomfortable. But remember, you have a 15 WEEK old Shiba. They are very energetic, stubborn, bitey assholes to begin with. I was around 6 7-9 week old Shiba puppies and all they wanted to do was scream in my face and bite me with their little needle teeth (when they weren't getting distracted by popcorn or falling over asleep ). I do not think your puppy is fighting, I think she is testing boundaries and it's fun to bite at that age. Your older dog will help teach your puppy when things get too rough and he's had enough, but giving him some time alone wouldn't be a bad idea either. Teaching your puppy to not mouth people and to have a soft mouth for treats is good to start at this age, too. My 4 year old Shiba is still mouthy (they are just a mouthy breed) but he has learned to be soft with us and when it is and is not appropriate (like not with new people, never with food, etc.)
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Nov 9, 2012 19:12
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I think Sammies coats are far too long and even with my Shiba's shorter coat I don't like the Furminator as much anymore since I like a fuller coat. I recommend a grooming comb, slicker brush, and a shedding rake. Like IJ said, though, you can as what your breeder recommends.
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Jan 22, 2013 03:57
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What ButWhatIf said. Seriously, though. If the puppy's mother was vaccinated, the puppy has an immunity up to a certain point, which is why we then start vaccinating them on the puppy shot schedule the way we do, so as to overlap immunities so the dog doesn't get sick. Unless your neighborhood has a high incidence of parvo, giardia, coccidia, lepto, or any lovely exploding butt diseases, the pup will be fine. Don't let it eat or play around poop. That's p. much it. Also, I don't know if people really understand what "socializing" means for a puppy. This isn't just a "look there's a thing, ok yay done." It's taking the time to make sure the puppy feels comfortable enough to eat or play or be relaxed in a new situation. Ellie was scared shitless of a soccer ball on one of our walks when she was a little peanut. So we took a good 20 minutes to hang out by the ball and reinforce that the ball is super awesome and not going to eat her. Slow introductions, letting her approach by herself, distractions and playing with leaves etc. Then when we were calm and not freaking out, continuing on our merry little way. Because I took the time to properly socialize her and start the moment she came home at 9 weeks, I now have a very brazen, confident dog, but one that will still look to me for guidance if she is ever unsure since I was there to calmly assure her through the scary parts. http://www.clickertraining.com/node/2184
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Aug 25, 2014 19:57
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Are you giving the dog anything awesome amazing when you leave? Bully sticks, kibble in puzzle toys, frozen kongs etc. If not, I suggest implementing something asap and giving it to them whenever you leave (and they only get it when you are leaving.) They won't be able to wait until you leave home for that bad rear end treat.
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Mar 7, 2016 22:11
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You get your dog a combo vaccine ever? You are fine bro.
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Mar 31, 2016 01:14
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That was polite. The way you pouted and said how we SHOULD HAVE approached it is so far past Brit politeness it's bordering on hand holding a child. Sorry you heard something mildly unpleasant. Just as your dog does not care about her own past, we don't either. Aus stated a fact based on a picture in the present, yes your dog is fat.Is it a cute picture? Sure. She's also fat. My dog has gotten fat, I even asked the vet to reweigh him before. Yup, he was a tubbo that gained 5 lbs, which is a LOT for a 24 lb doggo and I cut his food down but I'm also very good at ignoring the pitiful faces when they say they are hungry. She screams? Time out in another room or something, I don't put up with that poo poo. vOv I have thumbs and they do not, so they can't get any more food. Exercise is nice and rewarding for the dog, but food, just like in people, is probably 80% of the battle anyway. Never trust the bag, it would have me feeding my dogs around 2 cups a day when they get maybe 3/4 of a cup. Good luck with that skin tag. Hope she makes a fast recovery.
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Jun 14, 2016 01:48
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Not beating around the bush in PI is ~mean~ but tell someone to eat a bowl of dicks and die in so many words in any other subforum and it's daisies and in good fun. 
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Jun 15, 2016 00:11
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| # ¿ May 5, 2024 15:22 |
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Just FYI -- I run a breed specific rescue and we do NOT take in any bite history dogs, period. Don't lie to the rescue, either. Finding a successful place for the dog to go means understanding all of what behaviors the dog has. Don't leave your dogs and kids alone with each other, ever. Even for a second. Your dog does not have an inferiority complex, he is resource guarding the couch. Not letting him on the couch at all and keeping him separated from the kids and learning your dog's warning signs will go a long way. Things that look like "well he just bit out of nowhere!" isn't ever out of nowhere. Sometimes their early warning signs have been taken away (like growling. Let the dog growl, then give it space or let it have a safe spot in its crate or something.) Otherwise it will go from still to bite in a second.
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Aug 28, 2017 16:01
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