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I'm not sure if this will be helpful: http://www.embracepetinsurance.com/health/breeds/dog-breeds.aspx It was a link I originally found posted in Terrierman - he said he liked the description of the Jack Russell, and looking through more, they're pretty accurate. It might be helpful to point to when people are looking at a few different breeds. (Points off for there being links to things like "Aussiedoodles" but you get the idea.) Good work on the thread!
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Mar 11, 2012 21:12
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Bacteriophage posted:
How are you ignoring him? You need to look at where the reinforcement is coming from. The act of chewing (on skin, toys, or table legs) is innately reinforcing for a lot of dogs. It can be soothing, fun, or it can be a fabulous attention getting device. So clearly the dog is being reinforced somehow, or else the behaviour would have extinguished on its own. He's getting more reinforcement than you are applying punishment. Behaviour math! How well are you ignoring him? What do you do? Do you give him a time out? Do you leave the room? Do you tether him? How quickly do you offer a consequence for teeth on skin? (And in this instance, the consequence is the removal of good things, not yelling or intimidation.) For some dogs, time outs in the bathroom can work wonders. For other dogs, what really does the trick is YOU leaving the room. So if you've been trying one thing, consider trying another. And you really need to be 100% consistent in addressing these self-reinforcing behaviours or else they'll continue indefinitely. Other options are to teach him to grab and hold a toy during play, or before walks, or whenever he tends to get a little excited. A dog with a toy in its mouth can't bite. And if you work hard at making this preferred behaviour more reinforcing than the boring, ignore-inducing teeth on skin, you should see toy-grabbing replace mouthing. You do this via lots of fun play and attention for showing interest in the toy. Or you can simply try to catch the behaviour before it happens (identify triggers, then control them). A dog who never gets too riled up indoors probably won't mouth you too much.
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Mar 12, 2012 03:09
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Bacteriophage posted:Our last trainer suggested to just end any interaction with him and just turn away and ignore him for like 30 seconds. We never really left the room but just walked a few steps away from him. I'm taking your advice on upping the ante and try to leave the room until he calms himself down. He's a mess about that though because he's gangly and will paw at our backs or try to tug at our arms if we turn away from him when he's getting all bitey excited. Should we just keep walking away and ignoring him? The pawing and tugging at your arms is still highly reinforcing for him. I would either leave the room, or tie a leash to your coffee table and use that as a tether station -- it's easily accessible and does a better job of disallowing your dog to continue to interact with you after the inappropriate behaviour. I also hope you try the toy-getting to replace the inappropriate behaviour. It's very difficult to tell a dog "don't do that" - we may think it's simple, but it's too abstract a concept for them. The better approach is, "instead of doing that, do this instead". Replacing bad behaviour with acceptable behaviour is key. And remember, the mouthing, pawing and tugging has worked for almost a year, so it's going to take some time before you extinguish it.
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Mar 12, 2012 12:55
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Bacteriophage posted:Thanks for the tips! As far as the toy tip goes, should we always have a toy nearby to shove in his mouth when he starts mouthing or is it just as effective to shove a toy in his mouth a few extra seconds it takes me to find a toy and shove it in his mouth? I know with training timing is the key, but how much of a grace period do I have? The less time you allow lapse the better. Also, if he's uninterested in having a toy shoved in his mouth, you can try to elicit a game of chase. When we teach people how to play with their pups, I see a lot of people just holding the toy in front of their dogs face and pushing it towards their month - not too many pups react to that. Tapping into their prey/chase drive is normally much more successful. Eventually with enough repetitions your pup should go find a toy on his own, but in the early stages the more immediate, fun and engaging you make the replacement behaviour the better.
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Mar 12, 2012 14:24
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Yep, that sounds like nipping before a game of chase is definitely being reinforced. I think I did a poor job at describing eliciting a "game of chase". I meant to explain that instead of holding a toy in his face and hoping he'll play with it, put the toy on the ground and run it away from the dog, so the DOG chases the toy. Chase is a great game, but I feel like you should only play it when you have the capability to call the dog back to you mid-game on your terms, and have him recall calmly. You don't want your dog getting into the habit of blowing off your recalls, and chase can encourage a dog to do just that. So, I guess as far as your question goes, chase probably isn't a good game to play until you have better control over his excitement.
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Mar 12, 2012 18:14
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99% of the time a pet store puppy is from a puppy mill. Puppy mill breeding stock are not often health tested, and often live in poor conditions. The breeding dogs have minimal contact with humans, and all in all live a pretty poor life. So, uhm, don't buy puppies from pet stores. It would be best if you returned the puppy to the store from a very beep boop goon perspective. But the odds of that happening are slim to none since your family has surely already created an emotional bond with this pup and won't want to part with it. The best you can do now is ensure the puppy is healthy (and you have a vet check scheduled, which is great) and well cared for. The long term effects of milled dogs can be genetic diseases that don't crop up until later (eyes, elbows, knees, hips) or unsound temperament (breeders don't care if they're breeding nippy, fearful dogs, making nippy fearful puppies since they don't have to live with them). Or heck, the dog may end up being healthy and happy. You'll figure that out in the months and years to come. The first order of business is housebreaking the dog. This thread is a good resource for that, and it sounds like you're okay as far as that's concerned. Beyond that, getting the pup comfortable in its crate is probably the next priority. Then teaching the pup appropriate play (ie, no biting) and how to use toys. Manners around a food bowl are helpful too. Pups are smart and will pick up on cues quickly. They don't respond well to punishment, so I suggest you look into reinforcement training - check out the Dog Training Megathread for more on this. If you have any specific questions, please let us know!
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Mar 26, 2012 02:11
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That seems pretty normal - ideal, even. I wouldn't worry. You might want to get chews, etc for him to use when he's alone. But in my experience, dogs don't play much with their toys when there's no one around.
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Apr 10, 2012 15:34
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If you're worried about him being left alone a few days a week consider hiring a dog walker. I used to visit an old man Lab a few days a week. He was awesome. He'd walk along behind me off leash as we'd toddle around the neighbourhood. He loved his walks.  The walks were shorter than normal (30 minutes, compared to the usual 60) but I think he got a lot out of them.
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Apr 12, 2012 18:21
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Toughing it out is a good option. When I first brought my pup home I crated her at night, and I set out my bed on the floor right in front of the crate. Each time she started crying I would speak to her and stuff my fingers through the bars. It seemed to quiet her down really nicely, and after 3 nights or so of this I was able to lay in bed with the crate in the corner of my room without much fuss. Though, it's important to keep in mind what worked for some people may not work for others. Dogs are fantastic about figuring out behaviour chains, so you may find your pup crying perpetually to get you come and keep it company, so that's where toughing it out comes in handy. But for the first few nights I would go easy on the poor thing and comfort her the best you can while she's getting used to her new surroundings.
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Apr 16, 2012 21:43
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Koth posted:I have a question about house-training. My ultimate goal is to have our puppy pee and poo outside in the back yard, but I'm a little confused as to how I go from having the puppy know to pee and poo on a pad in his long-term confined area to having him bark at the door when he needs to go out. Why bother with the half-measure of using a pad? If you want your pup to always eliminate outside then your best bet is to start imposing that now. I know many, many dogs who were litter/pad trained who never really understood the difference between a pee pad and a bath mat, or an area rug. I strongly suggest NOT using a pad, and just be a bit more proactive/involved in the housebreaking process. And some dogs never bark by the door to be let out. I, for example, have a dog who gets a little more clingy when she needs to pee. It's a tough sign to notice, especially when she gets clingy when she's hungry or bored too. But eventually you notice the subtle differences between the signals. Basically, don't assume you're going to get something obvious. Consider bell training if you want obvious, but be prepared for the dog ringing bells when it's bored/hungry/whatever too.
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Apr 24, 2012 02:57
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Eegah posted:I stumbled my way into a 16-week old Shih Tzu last week. All in all he's a damned good dog and is learning fast (he immediately figured out the doggy door and potty tray on the patio and hasn't had an accident since I got them), with the exception of nipping and pant legs. The nipping I think I can handle -- he responds pretty well to me leaving the room when he hits skin so hopefully he'll figure it out in a week or so. Pant legs are another problem -- practically any time I'm walking he's attached to a pant leg, and I don't feel like walking out of the room is a great idea here as it just gives him something to chase until I close the door. I even experimented with spraying bitter apple on my sweats and he just gives no fucks. Any ideas? I would either have him trail a light leash indoors so you can grab it and affix it to a table leg, or set up tether stations where the leash is pre-fixed to the table and you attach a misbehaving puppy to it for a time out. Redirecting him to a toy (maybe something similar, like a knotted up old sock, or a plush tug toy) instead of your pant legs should work too if you get him excited about the toy when your pant legs aren't in the equation. (If you just shoved something at him while you're walking across the room, pant legs dangling, he'll just ignore the new toy and keep trying for the legs.)
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Apr 30, 2012 13:08
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tiddlez posted:I just have a small question about doggy humping. Campbell hasn't ever done it, should I be concerned about that? Is that weird? He's almost 9 months, and we meet all these puppies at 5/6 months that are humping everyone, and he has never done it. Not that I am complaining ofcourse, I just want to know if thats normal? Humping is both a hormonal issue, and a behavioural one. Dogs can hump because they're feeling horny, or because they're looking to elicit attention, or to pull rank with other dogs. Is he intact? If so, he may be slow to develop. If not, he may just not have developed that behaviour. He very well may start humping in the future. Time will tell.
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May 4, 2012 14:41
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I would see if you could get the name of the vet who gave the dog its puppy shots, and try to arrange they forward their records on to your current vet. I'd let the dog get used to her new environment for a few days before running her off to the vet unless there's a indication that she needs medical attention. Don't wait more than a few days, because a dog who's had her rabies vaccine lapse shouldn't be out and about in public (not because she could contract the disease, but because if she bites anyone/anything that'd be the end of her). If you can't get the records, just explain the situation to the vet as you said, and see what they suggest. You'll probably get boosters for all the basic shots, flea and heartworm meds, and be sent on your way.
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May 9, 2012 15:29
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Eegah posted:What I figured, thanks. Unfortunately the one decent trainer I can find here in Sacramento (why are there so few here?) only has her kindergarten class up to 16 weeks and Tater's 18, so off to some place in Davis I guess. I'm not sure pumpkin is going to curb poo eating. Try pineapple, or other stool-bittering agents that are sold in pet stores. Or consider changing his diet.
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May 11, 2012 16:31
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Asnorban posted:We spoke with her about health concerns yesterday, including the health of the parents. Neither parent has had any health issues. She takes the mother for checkups 3 times a year and has any paperwork related to those vet visits. The father (their neighbor's dog) also has no health issues. She is taking the puppies for their first vet visit this week to get their first round of vaccinations and a checkup to clear them for adoption. She also agreed to run any additional tests on the one we want in order for us to be as informed as possible on the puppies health. There are a slew of possible health issues that might not be picked up on an annual vet visit, or without being intimately acquainted with the lines your dogs come from. The dogs might not be afflicted with progressive retinal atrophy, but they may pass something like that onto a pup, and you can end up with a puppy who is blind at 2 years old. It's not likely, but it's possible. It's one of the reasons why health tests are emphasized so strongly when getting a pup. The issue with getting a pup from a BYB vs a shelter, is the second money changes hands you're rewarding the irresponsible breeder, and setting them up to repeat their behaviour. The world has enough poorly bred dogs in it, so I don't like to encourage anyone to create any more. Genetically, there's not much difference between a untested BYB dog and a shelter dog. Sometimes you luck out, sometimes you don't. prom candy posted:I have another "hey we got a dog" question. We picked up our dog (the lab rotti from the last page) on Thursday night and I worked from home on Friday so that she wouldn't have to be alone in a strange house on her first day. Throughout the course of the day I also worked on some training stuff with her, played in the yard, etc. Now it seems like she's really imprinted on me and is less enamoured with my girlfriend, who had to go into the office on Friday. I'm at home more often than my girlfriend so the dog is going to see more of me, but right now if I leave her alone at the house with my girlfriend she'll cry and whine like she's been left completely alone. Sign your GF and pup up for training classes. Training is a fabulous way to build a rapport with a dog, as long as it's fun for everyone involved. So look up a fun, reinforcement-based obedience class for them. Just remember to take it lightly - I see too many people stressing out in class when their dog isn't holding its sit stay. And those who stress out are less likely to desire to do their training homework, and keep up the training for the life of the dog. As far as a dog is concerned, sit is a trick just like spin or shake a paw.
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May 14, 2012 15:08
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I don't think the bell is necessary for the dog. I'm sure it doesn't hurt, but if you're managing fine by preempting it, no biggie. The play at night can create a habit that you'll not be thrilled with as the pup ages. I would maybe try to provide a chewy toy or stuffed Kong or something to keep his attention as he goes back to sleep, if anything.
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May 18, 2012 19:29
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Regarding Aussies and being alone all day - you should be fine, but it depends on the dog. Aussies have a huge range of temperaments, from chill and relaxed to hyper and destructive. My first Aussie was the most laid back one I've ever met - he was awesome. My current Aussie is much more energetic, and more of a handful. But basically any dog should be able to survive being alone for 8 hours a day with adequate exercise in the mornings and evenings. My chief concern is a dog holding its bladder that long, so I don't like to push alone-time beyond 8 hrs. Training will be done separately, so you may as well start now with your other dog. Odds are they'll each pick up the other's bad habits (it's not often that they pick up the good ones!), so the more you work on your current dog now the better off you'll be in the long run. Training can be a fluid thing. You really don't have to spend much time dedicated to training every day. The bulk of my training is done on the short walks to and from the park. It can be seamlessly integrated into your daily life, and need not get in the way of the rest of your life. Re: the rescue, that's a hell of a lot of dogs. It definitely raises some red flags for me too. A good rescue should know if the dog is okay in a crate, and be able to help you find a dog who really fits into your current lifestyle, rather than letting you point at a random dog in their yard and taking it home untested.
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May 24, 2012 18:34
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Affi posted:I just broke up with my live-in girlfriend, we had a dog together and I really like that dog. It is her dog but she is ok with me having him every other weekend. The dog won't care. He'll manage just fine, after an initial adjustment period. I know an ex-couple who are doing this right now, and they seem to be managing fine. However, for your own sanity and long term wellbeing, staying in touch with your ex is probably not a good idea.
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May 28, 2012 14:22
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MrFurious posted:
I think they were talking about essentially adopting an ex-lab animal. It would have no service dog training, let alone house training, or training of any kind.
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May 29, 2012 21:11
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Chows are challenging dogs, and definitely top my list of "never in a 1000 years would I own one" dogs. However, plenty of people own them quite happily. The big issues, as I see them, are: - that they are not people pleasers and will require a great deal of R+ training to show the dog what you want is what they want to do too. - they are prone to aggression (human and dogs), and many have little to no bite inhibition. If you have read plenty about Chows and have met some in person, and feel like you can handle their issues (rather than simply hope that they don't pop up in your pup) then godspeed!
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Jul 1, 2012 22:59
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zamiel posted:
Your pup needs to learn that yelping = end of fun. No puppy is going to stop because it's hurt you (puppies aren't known for being so considerate). The puppy will stop because he's learned that when he hears you yelp it means that you're going to withdraw and stop the fun. Ie, he's going to learn through negative punishment that he better watch where he puts his mouth because if he doesn't something he wants gets taken away. He's young yet, and puppies can be pretty dumb, so keep up the yelping and make sure to follow it up with time outs. Maybe try time outs for 10 seconds, or 20. Just long enough for the fun to stop and for him to calm down a bit. When you reapproach, restart play with a toy or something that is appropriate for him to mouth. I don't think clicker training is necessary for what you want to do, but you can try it. Here's a good video on how to approach it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c77--cCHPyU I feel that a clicker is a precision tool, and you need not bother with it in this precise situation. A simple marker word should suffice (and it gives you one less thing to juggling while training). I would use a two pronged attack for inappropriate biting: removing yourself when teeth hit skin, and teaching appropriate interaction via the method shown in that video.
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Jul 3, 2012 16:38
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Re: trouble brushing the dog. Try a treat where the dog needs to lick at it, like a frozen peanut butter stuffed kong. When the brush is out, the food tap gets turned on, and when the brush goes away, the tap turns off. Start slow, and only progress to the next step if the pup is 100% comfortable with the one previous. The steps are things like "take brush out of drawer" "bring brush close to dog" "hover brush over dog" "touch brush to dog" "brush dog gently once on its side" ... they progress to more brushes on tougher spots (legs and ears are toughest for my dogs). See how you can break it down into tiny, easy steps? It's easier to create that positive emotional reaction in pups if you approach it that way. Be careful that you're not scratching your dog's skin, or snagging the fur, especially to start since those unpleasant experiences will compound on each other.
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Jul 16, 2012 18:32
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A Magical Unicorn posted:I'm interested in buying a pair of Siberian Husky pups (after lots of research I believe I can handle their needs). I found a seller that was advertising a pair of "pure" huskies. They claim they have papers for the parents, but today they told me the papers have been misplaced. Firstly, buying two puppies at once is a bad idea. Link. They tend to bond too strongly to one another, and not strongly enough to you. They can become insular and not learn how to get along with strange dogs. Plus, when two pups grow up together, one of the pups will never really reach its full potential - one will be unnaturally "softer" than they would be otherwise. Secondly, some dude breeding his two pet huskies together to make more pet quality puppies isn't a good breeder. Vet checks don't cut it. Responsible breeding is much more than simply putting two dogs together of opposite sexes and hoping for the best. There are genetic tests to do, plus breeders have intimate knowledge of the lines of their dogs. They can tell you exactly why they bred two dogs together, and the reasons are never "convenience" or "good temperament". Lastly, there are no health effects associated with the dogs not being purebred.
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Jul 19, 2012 14:42
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The System posted:Thanks for the information. You've helped me to refine my questions. Because his self-control is so advanced, would he possibly harm himself by holding it for too long? What's the longest stretch of time that a dog could be kept inside? I don't like to leave my dogs without a bathroom break every 4 hours if I can help it. 8 is the max.
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Jul 21, 2012 00:08
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uptown posted:Totally my own fault for getting distracted (actually watching clicker training videos on YouTube), but Shanti peed in the house. I cleaned it, then took him outside to see if he needed to poop or anything, and he peed again! I know the accident in the house was fresh (warm), and it was around the corner so I didn't see or interrupt him. What does it mean that he only half peed? That he knows that the house is the wrong place to pee? Or am I just reading too much into this? If he continues to have weird, frequent half-pees, consider getting him checked for a UTI. nesbit37 posted:Speaking of potty training, we have had our puppy for 2 months now and she is just shy of 6 months old. We live on the 11th floor of a highrise with no grass around us, and honestly she is doing far better than I had expected at this point considering the living circumstances. Accidents are only once or twice a week, and she sometimes even scratches at the front door to be let out. I would continue to carry her. A lot of potty breaking issues are simply about creating a preference for the appropriate area. She likes the carpet because it's nice and absorbent. There's probably not too much you can do right now other than drill it into her little head that she's to pee on grass. Don't let her make the "mistake" of peeing on carpet or else it will set your preference-building back. Give it another couple of months and see if she better understands that only grass is an appropriate pee area.
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Jul 23, 2012 15:49
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If I personally had a new pup I would likely wait until 1-2 years at least before neutering or spaying. However, for a family pet you'll not likely see any negative repercussions if you did it at 6 months. Will you see structural repercussions? Yes. Will they be negative? Not necessarily.
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Jul 24, 2012 18:05
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TVs Ian posted:
It sounds like you'd be just fine neutering now (err, at 6 months, not now now). Neutering early tends to result in dogs who lack secondary sex characteristics (like larger heads in males) and taller, thinner animals in general because of neutering delaying the closing of growth plates. As far as structure goes, for casual sportiness I doubt you'll see any negative repercussions. A link between early neutering and osteosarcoma has been found (theorized?) in large breed dogs like Mastiffs and Danes, so it's recommended you hold off on desexing them for a few years. a life less fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 19:10
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MrFurious posted:Re: the jumping/hopping, you're fine, I wouldn't worry about it. Here's a link: http://www.naiaonline.org/pdfs/LongTermHealthEffectsOfSpayNeuterInDogs.pdf Some googling around will provide you with a few more.
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Jul 24, 2012 20:52
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uptown posted:So after two lovely weeks of Shanti not noticing the litterbox... The day has come that he has discovered the wonders of cat poo. I looked away for two seconds today to find him IN THE LITTERBOX digging for gold. Needless to say, I don't want him eating cat poo or litter, especially since it's clumping litter! Any ideas on how to deter him from the box? Maybe a giant Rubbermaid with a hole cut in the lid? Yeah, fashion some sort of doorway that the cat(s) can get through but the dog can't. Baby gates cats can jump over/crawl under or smaller holes for them to fit through should work. You'll probably not have much luck training the dog not to eat the poop since he'll be free to help himself when your back is turned.
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Jul 27, 2012 04:24
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Veskit posted:So I thought that my dog just hated her crate because enough value wasn't built into it, but it turns out she values the drat thing just fine when I'm around, and is already on phase 2 of crate games. She will go into her crate, accept a treat with the door open, call her to come out, she'll come out and go back in without me saying anything. She whines forever at night though, will urinate almost immediately sometimes, and claw and dig at her cage for sometimes hours. Thus it's separation anxiety. You could try moving her up to your room for a bit. Sometimes you just need to try to find something that works so you can start laying the groundwork for good behaviour (like not fussing in the crate) and then you can wean off the reliance on you. Or maybe it'll continue to be an issue - it's tough to say until you try a few different things. So far it sounds like you're doing well. The anxiety may be quelled once she's more secure in her daily routine. tonic316 posted:Is there a link to crate games? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebjBo_spqG0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8HNO79bZMY The full video is sold online by Susan Garrett. guarded by bees posted:Breakthrough! We were having some inappropriate peeing issues for a few days, and yesterday he started asking to be let out by running up to the back door and making a noise (usually a quick yip). When I took him out, he'd run to his potty spot, have a pee, then come back up to go inside. I am so proud of him! It sounds like your "give" training is going well. It's good that you're waiting until he drops it to give your cue - if you were saying before he drops it then you're not showing the association between the word and the action. In my classes, we use a similar method. We will play with a tug toy with the dog. When we want the dogs to drop it we'll DROP THE TOY and just hold the dog's collar so he can't run away with it. The toy is no longer fun 'cause you're not attached to the other end* The dog should then drop it, you mark it with a "yes" or a click and the "give" cue and then RESUME PLAY. The key here is that giving up the toy is no big deal since he gets to continue playing with it after he listens (and sometimes gets a bonus tasty treat out of the deal). You don't want your "give" cue to become heavily associated with loss since your dog will be more likely to blow you off when he has something really valuable to him. * For dogs who continue playing with it despite you not touching it you can put a treat on their nose to get the first few repetitions.
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Jul 30, 2012 21:56
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tonic316 posted:That's the reason, she thinks as soon as they're not on their mothers milk they're good to go. She's misinformed then.
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Aug 2, 2012 15:43
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In short, it's not life scarring, no. But you could do much better. This woman sounds irresponsible and unknowledgeable in her breeding and puppy raising practices. We obviously want the best for our animals so we strive to set them up for success from the very start (which she is not doing). And we also don't like to encourage shoddy breeding practices since the world has enough crappy breeders making pets as it is. Problems you may run into: Puppy may be more bitey than it would be if it had littermates to practice on. Puppy may be more easily intimidated by other dogs. Puppy may have more difficulty recovering from stressful situations or dealing with frustration. That's just the behavioural stuff - not necessarily genetic issues that you can run into when not buying from health tested lines.
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Aug 2, 2012 16:11
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I would start calling kennels, dog walkers and grooming facilities and try to explain the situation to them. They may be willing to make an exception considering your situation. I would also be absolutely furious at my neighbours, and I would tell them (as politely as I could muster) that they need to suck it the gently caress up and watch the dog as you had agreed. Leaving a puppy alone for long hours in the apartment with the occasional pee breaks is not acceptable as far as I'm concerned. Explain to them how to use a crate or x-pen to control pee accidents. The barking is just barking, - sure, it sucks, but they'll figure out how to cope. Tire the pup out, give it other things to do, etc.
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Aug 5, 2012 02:58
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I don't think a vet visit would be in order. Sometimes puppies spook. My 3 month old puppy did not much care for walks either. That's about the time they can enter into their first fear stage too. Does he play with toys? Take him outside and just have a few awesome play sessions with him. If you notice any problem landmarks, engage play with the pup and just power/jog past them.
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Aug 10, 2012 16:49
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Don't panic, it sounds like you're doing just fine so far. Read lots about puppies, training and dog care in general and I'm sure you'll do very right by him. Right now your goal should be to get him exposure to loads of different types of people and environments - this time is key for laying the groundwork for him being a well balanced adult. Take treats and toys along and hang out in various places, encourage him to walk on different types of flooring (some unstable!) and try to get him to meet 50 men, 50 women and 50 children in the next few weeks. And of course, make every experience a positive one.
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Aug 19, 2012 14:31
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Just give her a good amount of exercise before you leave, and maaaybe a long lasting chew/bone/stuffed kong when you go and she'll be just fine. 4-5 hours is really not that long, and I think she'll get used to being alone relatively quickly.
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Sep 4, 2012 13:47
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Cuatal posted:We just found a weird bump thing on one of the pup's stomachs. It doesn't hurt her when we touch it or anything and she is behaving normally. It's probably been there a while. Anyone have any idea what it could be? Umbilical hernia maybe? See a vet if so.
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Sep 6, 2012 11:22
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TwoDogs1Cup posted:Any dog training tips? We just got an 8 week Beagle. This is the first dog we haven't rescued so he doesn't already know all the basic commands. Dog Training Thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3364451 An 8 week old puppy is still very much an infant. Train in 1 minute spurts, max, so you don't wear your pup out before you stop. Always end it on a good note, and leave the dog wanting more. Also, your pup is offering you feedback: sniffing is more fun than whatever you're offering. Training should be a game to a dog, and it should be fun and never a chore. Play games in between repetitions of behaviours, etc to keep the session upbeat and exciting.
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Sep 12, 2012 13:44
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How long a dog can hold it's pee/poo is influenced by how much the dog has eaten/drank, how recently, and whether the dog is awake/asleep. A dog's body will slow down urine production while sleeping, just like yours. So basically if a pup is awake, expect it to need to go outside much more often than if it's passed out sleeping in its crate overnight. I wouldn't consider a dog house trained until you go a full month without an accident. It's easier to keep your guard up longer than you might need to vs. having to break bad habits.
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Sep 14, 2012 19:47
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Cuatal posted:We bought two big cages for our puppies but they don't seem to have dividers. The cages are loving huge and I read the FAQ and it said that was a bad thing. What should we do? I put an upside down milk crate in my puppy's crate to keep it to a better size when she was tiny. I wouldn't have a problem with the pups using either crate, but maybe someone with more experience with raising two dogs at once will chime in with better advice.
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Sep 18, 2012 16:16
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