|
My wife and I brought home a 6 week old puppy for the weekend to see if it would be compatible with our house and the 2 cats we already have. It was pretty incredible and well behaved during all the daylight hours, but both nights it stayed up until about 6am whining. The OP says that puppies should be with their parents until 8 - 10 weeks ideally, so we have called back and asked if the person we got it from would be willing to let him stay with the rest of the litter and mom for another 2 weeks at least. I have never had a dog before (always been a cat person), is this something that sending him back for another few weeks with his brothers and sisters is likely to help with, or am I grasping here?
|
#
¿
May 13, 2012 14:37
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 22:39 |
|
|
Instant Jellyfish posted:In many areas selling a dog before 8 weeks is against the law and I would never give someone money for a puppy that they were selling that young. Those two extra weeks are where they learn bite inhibition and proper dog social behavior. Right now the puppy is just an infant so of course he's going to cry through the night in a new place away from his family for the first time. In two weeks he might be better but it might also be something that's going to take a while to go away. Thanks! It is my wife's sister's mother-in-law who happened to have a batch of labradoodles, so it isn't a from a breeder really. We talked to her and she is OK with us sending the puppy back for another few weeks, though we will likely make some trips down to visit and keep up a relationship with the puppy for that time to hopefully further ease into the transition. Please let me know if getting puppies this way is a bad idea for some reason. I have never really wanted to go to a breeder as I would prefer to rescue. This one just happened to fall into our laps and was a labradoodle, which is one of the few dogs I am particularly fond of due to my landlord having the best dog in the world and it being a labradoodle. Asnorban fucked around with this message at 14:38 on May 14, 2012 |
|
#
¿
May 13, 2012 16:08
|
|
|
Ikantski posted:^^ Yes, run away is your best bet. A good dog breeder wouldn't be giving dogs away at 6 weeks EDIT: or breeding labradoodles. We were more interested this weekend on if our cats would completely reject the puppy. It is back with its mom and brothers / sisters, as well as the other dog that this lady has. The house that he has been raised in to this point isn't at all a place where it hasn't been socialized (to humans or dogs). My wife's sister and her family has been going over every few days to play with all the puppies, and there are 2 high schoolers living in the house who spend time each day playing with them. They aren't being kept in tiny cages and ignored and have had other dogs come over to play as well. We took it to a graduation party for a friend that had maybe 25 or 30 people at it and the puppy was not in any way anti-social. It approached everyone, wanted to play with them, and was immediately comfortable taking naps with his head resting on a stranger's lap. Instant Jellyfish posted:If she is breeding them, she's a breeder. I know she's related to you so you probably don't want to think she's a bad person (and I'm sure she's not!) but that doesn't mean she has any business breeding dogs. I've met a lot of doodles with poor temperaments and expensive health problems because people are breeding them willynilly and relying on "hybrid vigor" to keep them healthy. If someone is breeding them they should be doing health testing suggested for both labs and poodles, that means hip and elbow testing, CERF eye testing, PRA testing, cardiac screening, thyroid testing, and vWD testing or pedigree clearance. Doodles can also be highly variable in coat and personality since they are a mixed breed so just because your landlord's dog is awesome doesn't mean this puppy will be the same. We spoke with her about health concerns yesterday, including the health of the parents. Neither parent has had any health issues. She takes the mother for checkups 3 times a year and has any paperwork related to those vet visits. The father (their neighbor's dog) also has no health issues. She is taking the puppies for their first vet visit this week to get their first round of vaccinations and a checkup to clear them for adoption. She also agreed to run any additional tests on the one we want in order for us to be as informed as possible on the puppies health. Serella posted:Why does she have a batch of lab-poodle mixes? Was it an oops litter or is she just breeding mutts for fun and profit? To me, either of those is generally worse than buying from a legitimate breeder. It was an oops litter and she just wants to make sure they go to loving homes. She is pretty attached to the puppies and has been taking great care of them, we just jumped the gun a bit on taking the puppy for the weekend to see if it was compatible. I am definitely worrying more than my wife. Though neither of us are entirely sure why this situation, with a seemingly well loved and cared for puppy (who will be having puppy tests done on him soon) is something that should be ran from. We would get a rescue dog if we weren't looking at this one, and how is a 6 month old mutt from a shelter with unknown parents a better / more sure adoption than this puppy? Sorry for my ignorance, as mentioned earlier I have always been a cat person and this would be my first dog (my wife's third.) Edit: She isn't trying to make any money on them. She just wants them to have a good home. She doesn't even want us to pay her back for the vet visit if we adopt him. Regardless of oops litter or not, what's done is done and it now (or in a few weeks) will need a home. Asnorban fucked around with this message at 15:00 on May 14, 2012 |
|
#
¿
May 14, 2012 14:38
|
|
|
Thanks for all the replies. I work from home so we are in a really good situation right now for having an active dog. We have 4 acres for it to run around on and are a few minute drive to lots of dog-friendly hiking trails. We would definitely be going to puppy kindergarten and probably some further training classes (especially since this would be my first). I understand all of the concerns in the thread, but I may have a few more questions once my wife gets home and reads the newest responses. Edit: I read the OP a few times, as well as pointing my wife to it and have gone back over it a few times (and will continue to do so).
|
|
#
¿
May 14, 2012 15:38
|
|
|
Bogwoppit posted:This is really encouraging to hear. It's a long road yet, but he has said he might be willing to try. I will give some more support. I had some bad experiences with dogs growing up and straight up didn't care for them and was slightly afraid as well, and being exposed to a puppy who knew me and the great exposure to other dogs that came from that quickly got me over that. I still have a hard time with the ones that jump a lot, but I realized that a lot of what I was afraid of or didn't like was not meant maliciously in almost all cases.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2012 18:57
|
|
|
Bogwoppit posted:When you felt most against dogs, would you have been comfortable going to see a dog and her puppies? Would that have felt too much? I didn't particularly like going to friend's with dog's houses. I would do it, but I would definitely be a bit more reserved lest I rouse the dog too much. I never was in a situation with a mom and multiple puppies, so I can't really say there. But it probably would have been a bit daunting, unless I knew I wouldn't be subjected to more than one or two at a time.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2012 03:28
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:Make sure that when you get mouthed, redirect to a chew toy or give yourself a time out (this means you remove yourself from the situation, you never crate or pen the dog -- this is how you poison the crate). Start with hard bites or mouthing and steadily lower the criteria for the situation Does this apply to our puppy barking incessantly at the cats when he wants to play? It is the perfect storm of variables that lead to it. He never barks except when he is incredibly hyped up and desperately wanting to play. He always approaches them first and gets submissive in front of them to try to coax one into playing. When that doesn't work (they just stare at him or turn away), he gets in front of them, butt still in the air with front towards the ground, and barks. And barks. And barks. One of the cats occasionally gives in and gives chase which I know reinforces Bran's behavior, but the other just walks away or stares at a wall which doesn't work at all. We thought they may paw at him and he would eventually learn, but after a month that doesn't seem to be the case. So: remove the cats from the room, let him bark it out in the hopes that the cats will teach him that it doesn't work, or remove him from the room the cats are in?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2012 14:58
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:Sounds like you nailed it. One cat is doing the right thing, the other is eventually reinforcing it, which is going to make it progressively worse. I don't own cats, but I would imagine that removing two cats from the room is significantly more difficult than removing the puppy, but if you can manage it, it's what I would recommend. The cats are fine being picked up and moved, so it isn't an issue to move them if that is the better option. Just don't want to remove Bran and accidentally poison whatever room we remove him to. It's a dumb frustrating problem because it is evident that every party involved except the one having to listen to the barking is fine with it. I would love for them to play without the barking. Thanks. I will try to always remove the situation once the barking starts for the next few weeks and see how that goes. My wife and I haven't exactly been strict with sticking to one strategy here, which it sounds like it needs.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2012 15:35
|
|
|
Our 4 month old won't let us brush him. We have tried a few brushes of varying teeth and no matter what it is he immediately bolts away. This is the only thing he isn't down with us doing. We have tried doing it while he is dead asleep, worn out from a walk, after a bath, while treating heavily, etc, but nothing will work. Any tips on how to get him to at the very least tolerate it? He has long enough fur that it needs brushed but he is getting too big to have to try to hold him back while brushing, so it needs to be something he will let us do on his own.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2012 17:45
|
|
|
Thanks for the brushing tips everyone!
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2012 23:04
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 22:39 |
|
|
Our one and a half year old pup has had 3 seizures over the past few months. We went to the vet again after his most recent and they say it is probably epilepsy. They have suggested putting him on Phenobarbital, which my wife and I will do if the seizures worsen. However, as we researched the side effects of it we've been pretty disheartened at how strong they can be, specifically that it looks like there is a decent chance of it altering his energy and enthusiasm to a pretty extreme degree. We've been trying to do as much research as we can to find out what environmental factors, diet factors, etc may contribute to seizures as well as to see if there are any other possible remedies before we go with the Pheno. Are there any suggestions any of you have for what we can try before putting him on Pheno? We are getting back with our vet later this week to discuss this, but I figured I would check here since you are always so helpful. I work from home, so one of us is around the house / him most of the week. I want to stress, again, that we will not hold back on the Pheno if he needs it, we will do whatever we have to for his health and safety. We would just like to research in to possible alternatives before going to what seems to be a potentially extreme medication in terms of side effects.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2013 16:46
|
|