|
Sab0921 posted:I'm kind of exasperated with house breaking. The guide in the OP worked for awhile, but now she seems to have disregarded any sort of signs notice that she has to pee. Are you walking her around outside or just letting her out in a yard?
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2013 00:27
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 06:59 |
|
|
Invalid Octopus posted:I'm a volunteer dog-walker at an animal shelter, and so many of the worst pullers are very underexercised and untrained. The stop when pulling method doesn't really work that well, because the dogs still need to get exercise, and it can be difficult for them to learn when they're so underexercised. There's no off-leash area or anything. That being said, I've had some success with turning around and walking in the other direction when the dog pulls – it doesn't reward them for pulling, but it does keep them walking, even if we're only walking in the same 10 foot stretch. This is why my shelter gets us to use easywalks on all the dogs when we're going for a walk. Now trying to get the pullers to and from the staging area on a slip lead is another thing entirely.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 7, 2013 19:36
|
|
|
cbservo posted:My wife and I are looking for a new dog addition to our family- we have two cats and a pretty roomy 2 bedroom 2 bathroom apartment. Is there a specific breed we should be looking for in regards to the two cats and the apartment living, is this going to be a case by case basis In regards to specific dogs, or Is it a terrible, horrible idea? We are not considering puppies, only adult rescues. You can find exceptions in most breeds (or breed mixes), but in general I'd stay away from herders and high-energy breeds for apartment living. A shelter or rescue with the means to cat-test their dogs or that keep a history of owner surrenders who've grown up with cats would help you out in your search. If you like a couch potato big dog, a greyhound rescue that does cat-testing would be a good option.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2013 01:41
|
|
|
SuzieMcAwesome posted:I have had my 11 month old yorkie for about 2 months now and we made an effort at house training, but admitted it was a half hearted attempt. I am ready to get serious about getting her trained. we have a crate but are not really good about using it. I do keep her food in there. She is not food motivated and we try to treat when she goes outside but she usually just drops it and walks away. She also does not squat an empty her bladder when she is outside. She will squat but keep walking. I have taken her to the vet and she does not have any know issues. I would even be ok with training her to use puppy pads. That would be preferred to surprise puddles. If you're free-feeding, switch to meals twice a day. Take the food up if she doesn't eat it within 15 minutes. If you can't easily feel ribs (like feeling your knuckles on the back of your open hand), cut her food intake in half. A week of this plus high-value treats (cheese, hot dogs, tripe) will usually turn picky dogs into food motivated ones. Housebreaking's 95% keeping track of your dog and not letting her be unsupervised. Use the crate when you can't keep an eye on her until she's gone two weeks with no accidents in the house (this includes at night). Schedule breaks to go outside every 4 hours during the day to start - tiny dogs have smaller bladders relative to how much they drink and so they may never get to a point where they can hold it for as long as big dogs.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 19, 2013 19:44
|
|
|
SuzieMcAwesome posted:She did well today with peeing when I took her out. Pieces of deli turkey seemed to be pretty motivational. She does not poo outside though. We do several laps around the house before she heads for the door. 20 minutes or so later, you find a surprise. Should I be crating her at all times when she is not outside until she is house broken? Going for a brisk walk (half-mile+) will help move things along and make her more likely to poop outside. Starting out, I'd try a walk about 30 minutes after each meal, just keep her moving until she poops. When she's inside she should either be attached to you on a tether, in her crate, or being actively monitored in a contained area with you. You've basically got her on lockdown to break the habit of going inside. Once she's gone two weeks without an accident, you can lift the monitoring but keep the schedule of taking her outside. If she has an accident after that, go back to 100% monitoring for a week.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 20, 2013 01:45
|
|
|
Dreylad posted:I'm looking after my landlord's husky who is about a year old, so not really a puppy anymore. Everything's great, she's a super chill dog who likes to sleep on people's feet. The only question I had was that she likes to play tug of war with her toys. We had a couple of guests come visit and one guy, who is kind likes to pretend he knows everything about everything, said that tug-of-war was "bad." Didn't really explain himself, just started trying to get her to play fetch with her toys which she didn't really care for. If they have a collar on, you can usually get a drop it on a tug by doing a collar grab under the chin, then gently push the toy into the dog. They no longer have the leverage to create any tension on the toy, so it's 'dead' and not as interesting. When they eventually open their mouth, mark it and reward by telling them to get it and playing more tug. Lather, rinse repeat to teach the drop it with the tug, and it's a good management strategy if they get too worked up in a new situation. It does require you to handle whatever they've got, but it sounds like you were doing that anyway. Engineer Lenk fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Dec 3, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2013 19:25
|
|
|
Chin Strap posted:a life less, how can I get him to be more... operant? When trying to start new behaviors, it seems like it has to be lure or nothing. If I ever try to shape he usually just sits still and stares at me like "What? I'm being cute. That gets a treat right?" Usually I can fade the lure after a while, but I'd like to see him actually thinking independently without luring. Not ALL, but have ideas about this. 101 things to do with a box is a good shaping game, and the introduction of the prop is sometimes novel enough to get dogs offering behaviors. Otherwise, drop your initial shaping criteria to 'look anywhere but at me', and don't make direct eye contact. Give him a release word if it looks like he's put himself in a stay.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 12, 2013 18:19
|
|
|
AA is for Quitters posted:So now he has a t-shirt acting like a swaddling to stop him from getting in to his stitches since he keeps licking, and a trip back to the vet tomorrow to get the vet to put the damned collar back on him. Unless there's an easy way to get an e-collar on, that doesn't involve me losing chunks of flesh, or an alternative to get him to stop licking his stitches. Not super easy, but safer: Open the e-collar at the seam, thread a ribbon along with the collar at the collar. One person holds the dog by the hips, the other puts the e-collar like a clamshell under his chin, cinching it tight with the ribbon until you can get the collar buckled. Duct tape it closed. Nobody's hands get close to his mouth without the e-collar blocking.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 13, 2013 18:07
|
|
|
If you train yourself that the pup goes outside immediately after playtime, immediately before and immediately after going in the crate, your life will be easier. Keep a leash by his crate.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2013 19:09
|
|
|
LooksLikeABabyRat posted:My problem so far has been figuring out what she considers a high value treat. I've got tons of different stuff, but she's pretty inconsistent about which one she likes (except wet food, she loves wet food). If she loves wet food, try Natural Balance food rolls cut up into cubes. Tripe and lamb lung are also good super-high-value treats for even picky dogs.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 23, 2013 03:06
|
|
|
LooksLikeABabyRat posted:I just need to find something she'll consistently go for. I'll try cheese again next time she does something that warrants a treat. Create a treat potpourri so you always have a backup. My trainer friend keeps an old peanut butter jar full of cubed hot dogs and string cheese.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 23, 2013 03:38
|
|
|
luscious posted:Because I live in such a small city / town and because I kinda hate everyone here it's kinda tough to think of what I will do. I will be checking out puppy kindergarten and there's also the option of having him see a dog walking service where they could take him for longer walks with their "pack". Be mindful when deciding on a dog walker. Many of the ones around here with 'packs' have little control over the dogs and it looks like a recipe for bad experiences and the development of poor habits.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 4, 2014 20:37
|
|
|
luscious posted:True! There's also a woman in town who rehabilitates problem dogs. I was thinking about hiring her for "personal training sessions"* and since I would assume that her dogs are well behaved it might be possible for her to help me out. If you're starting with a puppy, puppy kindergarten and appropriate socialization/playgroups will be way more important than one-on-one training with a problem dog specialist. I say this as someone who mainly deals with problem dogs and has never owned a puppy. The way you approach problems changes a bit with age and how 'baked-in' the behaviors have become.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 4, 2014 23:14
|
|
|
Natural Balance is only mid-level with my dogs, on par with string cheese. Tripe is the super-high-value treat that comes out once in a blue moon.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2014 08:35
|
|
|
Pick a dog based on personality and activity level over appearances. If you make the choice to give back Dee (which sounds like the right choice for both of you), take your time and foster some more. If one of your fosters completely clicks with you and your lifestyle, adopt them.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 14, 2014 17:45
|
|
|
Pew! Pew! posted:I've got a question about the "right" dog for our situation. Are you mainly interested in young adult/adult dogs or would you be up for a puppy? If your lease would allow it (and you find a group that's interested), you could give fostering a whirl with an organization that cat-tests dogs. One thing to keep in mind about adult dogs, though, is that they're not great generalizers and the cat-safe label is given based on either a history of living with cats or a quick simulated interaction with a dog-savvy cat (ideally both). You may not get a dog that will immediately leave your cats alone, but you should get one that will quickly learn cat boundaries. If your cats don't enforce those boundaries it's up to you to create them, which means that the dog's on a leash around the cats until they reliably ignore them or notice and bring focus back to you even when the cats are tearing rear end around the house. Even with that, I don't like to leave my cat and dogs together unsupervised for any substantial length of time. One of my dogs is buddies with the cat and she likes to nap on him, but she's always up for chasing neighborhood cats outside. I'd look at the German spitz breeds. They have the spitz look without the crazy prey drive and are a whole lot more biddable than the Asian spitzes (or Huskies). Your fiancee doesn't like toy dogs, so Poms are out, but an American Eskimo or Keeshond might be a decent fit. Eskies have grown in popularity recently; If you like this breed, find a responsible breeder. The ones I've seen come through the shelter have been puppy mill dogs that require a lot of work. If you don't mind the glamour-shot looks, all of the Keeshonds I've met have been really sweet dogs.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2014 22:23
|
|
|
lazerwolf posted:She's weird because I can also get her to lay down and tell her to stay while I roll the ball past her, she won't break eye contact with the ball but she won't go get it until I tell her "okay go get it". What steps can I do to get her to ignore the object? Teach 'watch me' with food, then see if she'll do it for the ball. Then make part of the game with the ball involve her giving you eye contact before you release her to go get it - which you can do during every play session.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2014 08:53
|
|
|
lazerwolf posted:I should clarify two points I didn't word well. She loves the ball, food and tug immensely. Get two identical balls, and step back to teaching 'drop it' again. When she drops it, release her immediately and throw the new ball from your hands. She should get to the point where she's spitting the ball out and staring up at the new ball, then you can work on duration and eventually add in your motion bending down and picking up the old ball before you throw one. This should mix it up enough that she thinks you have a better option.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2014 19:17
|
|
|
Sharzak posted:I'm trying to get a handle on what it is going to cost day one to bring a rescue doggie home. Would like to hear about anything I'm missing as far as initial cost outlay-- More options (not necessary by any means, but all useful): Nail trimmer or dremel (or both) Metal comb as well as slicker brush Dog shampoo Harness (if not already well leash-trained, a no-pull is a good stopgap) car harness (or car crate, or car barrier and seat cover) Training classes Toys (recommended variety: some sort of ball, some sort of tug, something squeaky, something stuffed. Cheap is good to start with, then buy more of whatever your dog likes to play with) Treats Chews (at least a Kong) Cheap fleece blankets (easy to clean, good to have around) Dog towels Baby gate/exercise pen
|
|
#
¿
Feb 25, 2014 07:46
|
|
|
americanzero4128 posted:Thanks for posting this. I have a two and a half year old Cairn terrier named Oskee who is awesome 95% of the time. The other 5% of the time, he's on his leash and turns into a hellion. If we're walking by ourselves, or with dogs that he knows, he is just fine. If he is on his leash and meeting a new dog, he sniffs them for a few seconds and then starts barking/growling/snipping at them. It's super embarrassing on walks. If we go to the dog park, for the most part Oskee is just fine off his leash with meeting new dogs. Occasionally he will find one he doesn't like and will bark at them, but I can get him to walk away from that and it's not an issue the next time they meet, and fortunately most people are understanding. I'm trying to cure this embarrassing behavior and will try the treat method. See a dog -> cue -> focus only on me and not on the environment is mostly a management technique; it requires you to be proactive. It does not decrease leash reactivity in a number of dogs that I've seen. I prefer to use Look At That because I think it works better and it makes the environmental triggers into a game rather than something that you're trying desperately to keep them from seeing. In terms of polite greetings, I'd recommend a CGC class to learn how to be near other dogs on leash while you meet with their owner and not letting him 'say hi'. Any tension on the leash will mess with dogs' natural body language - it makes them come in with more energy in straight lines (a fairly aggressive posture). Beyond that, if your dog is already stressed, any touch or pressure is likely to make him react - including a tug on the leash. Many clueless owners with 'friendly' dogs have anything but that - their dogs come in with high energy, tower over little dogs and sniff intrusively, then are 'friendly' because they bounce into a play bow. My terrier mix will have none of this - she escalates from a freeze with whale eye to a snarl to a snap, but she pauses at each step. Dogs who are appropriate will see her signs and back off. When I let her greet a bigger dog (on-leash or off), I'm picky about who she interacts with and I keep the whole thing very short, calling her away before she can get upset. If a dog comes by that I don't want her to meet, I put myself between her and the other dog and ask the owner to call them away or stay back. If you want to let him greet and don't want to let him practice bad behavior, work on greetings that last no more than two seconds. He goes, gets a sniff, then you walk on and give him a treat.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 25, 2014 17:40
|
|
|
Sharzak posted:She's pretty well house trained and very friendly and somewhat polite with new people but other dogs don't seem to like her very much. She usually approaches very friendly-like with a wagging tail but other dogs seem to generally flatten their backs, drop their tails, and show their teeth. She was according to the shelter not socialized very well. Her medical records say she is a "dominant dog." I'm meeting with a couple trainers soon but I don't know why other dogs are reacting this way. It's entirely possible that your dog is giving off very rude signals when she greets. Suzanne Clothier described it way better than I could here (about halfway in, when she's talking about the Sheltie). If this is the way she's coming off to other dogs, it's your job to manage her interactions with other dogs very carefully until she can learn some better behaviors. E: My terrier is a little poo poo to smaller dogs. She gets a very high tail, comes in straight and sticks her head on their shoulder, then bounces into a play bow. I interrupt this every time she meets a little dog, because I haven't met one who likes it. Easy walk works fine. Engineer Lenk fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Feb 27, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2014 04:58
|
|
|
Sharzak posted:I'm very open to the idea of it being her fault. This has happened at a distance where it would be impossible for her to be invading another dog's space but other dogs have held off until she gets much closer and starts sniffing. She's always very excited to see other dogs. It's not about space, it's about the signals she's giving off. Polite dog greetings involve loose body language and curvy paths. If a dog is coming up straight with their head and tail up, that will cause other dogs to react at a distance. I would manage it with strange dogs, call her away before she can provoke the reaction. I wouldn't let her play much with smaller or younger dogs, because I think it's more likely that she'd scare them or teach them bad manners. Ideally you want to find an older dog who gives exactly the correction needed and no more. If she's going to return fire then I would give it up and only let her play with other non-socialized dogs with a similar play style. Divert and break up play frequently, to keep them from going over threshold.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2014 06:24
|
|
|
m.hache posted:Ok weird one. Recently we started giving Nyx rawhide bones to gnaw on. Ive noticed that on occasion when I go to pet her when she has one she starts to growl. Now my first instinct was resource guarding, however if I say drop it she let's it go immediately and sits there waiting. She will even chew it right next to me but only starts growling when I touch her. Tail wag != happy. Dogs don't like it when you bother them while they're eating or chewing on things. Some dogs tolerate it better than others. Since you know this is a trigger, manage her so that she doesn't get a chance to practice the guarding, and treat it like standard resource guarding. That means a lot of approaching with awesome treats and trading for the rawhide, randomly tossing treats for settling nicely with you while chewing, and keep practicing the drop command (and always make the drop command pay better than guarding the thing). If she puts a paw on the rawhide, back up a step. If she growls at all, back off immediately.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2014 03:28
|
|
|
Sharzak posted:If you guys are sick of me just let me know and I'll go register on a dog training forum or something, but I keep posting stuff in here because i trust the judgment of a lot of you. Basement is too far/too cold/etc. from the living space to be considered part of the house. Pretend she's not housebroken at the house (which clearly she's not) and up the management with crates, tethers, pens and otherwise until she's in a routine of pooping outside.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 5, 2014 02:10
|
|
|
Dirt5o8 posted:I've got a play date scheduled with my friend's dog tomorrow. I figure it's going to consist mostly of bringing out my friend's dog blanket for her to sniff and treating the hell out of her. What else should I do? I'm not sure that scent swapping is as common a thing in dogs as it is in cats. Can't hurt, though. If you have an area where you can practice parallel leash walking, that would be ideal. Your friend and his/her dog starts out way in front, so they're just in visual range, walking away from you and your dog. You walk a path about 20 feet parallel, and use the information about her reaction to decide if you can get any closer. They should be so far out in front that you can get her brain back with treats. When she's walking nicely with you, speed up a little and close some distance. Your challenge is to read her comfort level, treat her for seeing the other dog, and keep her far enough away that she doesn't practice bad behavior. If you get to the point where she's OK with getting even at 20 feet parallel, restart at 15 feet parallel and repeat. I wouldn't make this exercise last more than 10 minutes, you'll lose her brain. You should get a feel for what distance is comfortable for her from other dogs. Then the challenge becomes managing her so she has as few chances to practice bad behavior as possible. Get proactive about crossing the street or turning back the other way (or both) when you see a dog on your walk, accompanied by treats. For the vet, leave her in a covered crate in the car until it's time to go into an exam room, and don't be shy about asking other dog owners to remove their dogs or distract them in the waiting room. Something like 'My dog is very dog-reactive, can you make sure your dog doesn't look at her when we come in.' People will be more receptive than you'd think.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2014 16:46
|
|
|
Dirt5o8 posted:Awesome info, thanks! Couldn't hurt. If her issue is mainly dogs, I wouldn't expect it to help much.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2014 17:47
|
|
|
loldance posted:I'm guessing the solution is to wait it out some more, but I wanted to check if anybody has any tips, tricks, hints, etc., to help the cats ignore her obnoxious invitations to play or get the dog to understand that the cats do not want to play wrestle. Teach the dog to ignore the cats. Keep her on a leash, reward her for looking away from the cats. Keep her on leash or otherwise contained until a cat can zoom past and she passes it up, chase is highly self-reinforcing and will set you back both with her ignoring the cats and with the cats acclimating to her and deciding she's not a threat.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2014 01:58
|
|
|
Rurutia posted:Is it a dumb idea to adopt a puppy just 6 months after adopting a younger (1-2 years old) dog? Pickles seems to LOVE playing with other dogs, and we were thinking that adopting a companion for her may be a good idea. I would probably go the other direction in age and get a dog that's 2-3 years older than Pickles and still likes to play if you were really sold on the idea of a companion dog. That way you have less unknowns in adult temperament (which Pickles has probably not fully grown into), and don't have to worry as much about puppy training and making sure the puppy has more one-on-one time with you than with the other dog. That said, if she has consistent playtime with other dogs structured into her week, I wouldn't be too quick to get her a companion. Adding a dog is a lot easier if you're at the push-button phase of your first dog, which doesn't happen for most dogs until after they hit adulthood and have been in your household for a while.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2014 18:08
|
|
|
I have an anxious and reactively loud (but not aggressive) dog. I wouldn't take on an anxious dog again - he took years to housebreak, years to partially crate train (knows to go in and lie down, but stays in work mode the entire time). I still have to walk him with a pocket of treats and play LAT to get us past the neighborhood dogs.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 25, 2014 18:33
|
|
|
Sharzak posted:She doesn't take well to being confined. If I leave her with me in my bedroom with the door shut she will whine at the door until I open it, walk out into the living hallway, and come lie back down exactly where she was just fine. Putting the trash can away is perfectly fine as a management technique. If you want to go low-pressure for long-term crate training, take the door off the crate (or tie it open) and leave it in her normal chilling-out spot. Toss treats in there occasionally. Train 'go to your crate' as a trick. Basically take the scary confinement part of it out of the picture until she thinks it's an awesome place to be.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 26, 2014 06:28
|
|
|
ThatPazuzu posted:Oh, by punish him, I mean for going in the house. I can't blame him trying to go out and failing but I also can't show him that pooping inside is okay so I just need a solution to him being quiet about needing to go out. If you punish him when you see him poop inside, he'll likely learn to hide and poop inside. It's not the lesson you want to teach.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 4, 2014 22:14
|
|
|
There are a lot of pit mixes (x lab or x shepherd) in shelters that would do fine in an apartment setting. Maybe not so good with a dog park, but if you commit to lots of leash walking you don't need a dog park. Avoid husky or husky mix even more than BC.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2014 06:18
|
|
|
GanjamonII posted:What she is doing - most anything. Sounds like she's mainly peeing when there's activity or excitement. So plan your playtime so that it's preceded and followed by a trip outside, with no more than 15 minutes of uninterrupted play. Enforce quiet time in the crate for other times, and work up gradually.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 15, 2014 20:27
|
|
|
ghostgirl118 posted:Not sure if this should go here or in the training thread. If you guys would prefer it there, let me know. If the house smells like pee, she's going to pee in the house unless you manage her pretty carefully. Treat her like she's not housetrained in your mom's house (crate/tether, take out on a schedule), and make sure your mother is cleaning up after the JRT with an enzymatic cleaner like Nature's Miracle so there isn't lingering scent.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2014 19:59
|
|
|
ThatPazuzu posted:Now that Buddy has gotten all his shots, I'm going to sign up for dog obedience classes, both to train him and get him used to other dogs. Should I sign up for puppy kindergarten or their standard training class? Buddy is a little under 4 months, pretty well behaved with me, but not very good at commands other than "leave it"/"drop it," sit, and come. I'd do puppy class if it has off-leash playtime. The puppy classes I've observed in are about half/half with formal obedience training and socialization (handling stuff, dog/dog socialization, etc.). The adult classes are just obedience.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2014 23:41
|
|
|
couldcareless posted:My fiance and I are starting to look into the purchase of a dog. She insists that she wants a puppy. I'm concerned about this because both of us work full time, me 8-4 and her 10-6. She insists we can just crate the puppy during the day, but I have my reservations. Can someone come home during the day to let the puppy out? Rule of thumb is that a puppy can hold their bladder (in hours) the same as their age (in months). You'd need multiple breaks the first month and a single mid-day break for the next few months before I'd expect the puppy to be able to go for 6 hours crated (assuming you got an 8-week old puppy). You can adjust the number of hours they can hold it down a little bit if you have a small breed.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2014 00:48
|
|
|
ThatPazuzu posted:I've been trying to socialize Buddy and I'm getting mixed results. He's universally good with people. However dogs are another story. He is very good with dogs his size or smaller, giving them sniffs n licks, and my cousin's big old mutt. But on our walks he growls at (but never attempts to bite) bigger dogs that would destroy him in a fight. What can I do to make him be friendly with all dogs? Short answer: you can't make a dog dog-friendly, though your pup is young enough that you can stack the odds with gentle introductions to carefully-chosen big dogs. A good choice for a big dog partner would be one who gives other dogs plenty of space but is willing to play when invited. You can decrease leash reactivity by making treats fall from the sky when he sees a big dog on a walk. Suzanne Clothier has a long article on human perceptions of dog-dog rectivity (and why it's not always a bad thing that you have to train away): http://www.suzanneclothier.com/the-articles/he-just-wants-say-hi
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2014 17:42
|
|
|
m.hache posted:I'm curious if it could be the heat? It's started to finally warm up around here and we haven't really turned the AC on yet. I know when a dogs appetite is affected it can generally mean there is a problem but she does eventually finish her bowl. We're following the guidelines on the bag (50Lbs, 5-5.5cups a day). Thoughts? What kind of food? I know puppies eat more than adult dogs, but that sounds like a lot. I feed my dogs somewhere between 1/2 and 2/3 the amount the bag recommends.
|
|
#
¿
May 30, 2014 23:45
|
|
|
Downhome posted:What steps can we take to make a bit of progress during those free play times? Take her out to pee immediately before free play and pull out a kitchen timer and break every 15 minutes. If she's still having accidents, decrease the time between breaks to 10 minutes. When she is successful for a few days, add a minute.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2014 03:08
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 06:59 |
|
|
Downhome posted:Fantastic advice, we will give that a shot starting tomorrow. We do already take her out right before, usually, at least. How will this ultimately transfer to her letting us know when she needs to go? It won't directly, but since she already lets you know in other settings this is management in a highly stimulating environment. Eventually she'll grow up. She may also pattern train into periodically taking a break from heavy play sessions, which is a good skill for dogs to have.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2014 05:49
|
|