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I finally got around to ordering some Mr. Color last week. I have to admit, acrylic lacquer is amazing. The coverage is fantastic. One coat for perfect colors, and dries in just minutes. Hard coat, with great adhesion. I didn't have any trouble with sliding painted parts sticking or not fitting together. Incredibly expensive, but IMO worth it. I'm sure I was taken price wise, but I didn't have time to research too much, and I did get it nearly the next day. It was ~$6.50 per color, and $25 for a bottle of thinner (but you need 2 kinds, "leveling" with retarder for brush painting, and normal for cleanup and airbrushing. $150 got me white & black, R,Y,Bl,G,Br, and silver, some flat base, Mr.Surfacer 500, 1000, and 1200, and the afore mentioned 2 bottles of thinner. I need to get some nice brushes to really put the icing on top of this new setup. also, set up a ventilation system for airbrushing again. Vaporware fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Apr 16, 2012 |
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Apr 16, 2012 13:36
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Picked up the YMT-05 Hidolfr at the gundam base in korea. I can't wait to get started on this guy. Just need my hands to work first. Carpal tunnel is a bitch. Surprisingly, you need sensation to be able to build models. SHOVEL ARMS!  Only thing better would be a master grade Xamel.
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Nov 21, 2013 00:58
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Your options are pretty much as stated, learn to cut two identical parts or learn to cast. When you see a in-progress prototype with one arm and one leg, once they finalize the look, that's when they start modelling the other side. Or invert their 3D model and print the other side. For things without bi-directional symmetry (mirrored parts like insteps on feet) you just have to take your time when you make the matching piece. I guess if you're super hardcore you can construct a home-made pantograph. That would allow you to copy exactly and also invert when needed. Still won't help you cut a straight line though.
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Aug 8, 2014 15:32
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Guys I've got a half-built 1/60 zeta gundam in my basement that I started about 20 years ago. It may or may not be slathered with testors enamel. At what point do I need to brick off the room containing the kit so that at night I can't hear the low dull lub-dub sound it emits? Alternatively, is there a back issue of hobby-japan that covers the proper method of minimizing the shame of failure?
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Sep 9, 2014 01:55
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