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Quaint Quail Quilt
Jun 19, 2006


Ask me about that time I told people mixing bleach and vinegar is okay
I've never used tar and sap remover but I think it works on pollen as well.

Pollen has been pretty bad in my neck of the woods and thankfully after a reapplication of my ceramic coat and several washes like 2-3 days apart it seems to have ebbed down some.

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a mysterious cloak
Apr 5, 2003

Leave me alone, dad, I'm with my friends!


More babby's first adventure in detailing: I decided the rock chips in the hood had to go since the rest of the car is looking so much better. So I got some OEM paint and clearcoat and started filling in the spots. And then the sanding began.

My advice: Don't. Just don't.

So. Freaking. Tedious.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
Detailing thread: Grim determination and sanding

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

a mysterious cloak posted:

More babby's first adventure in detailing: I decided the rock chips in the hood had to go since the rest of the car is looking so much better. So I got some OEM paint and clearcoat and started filling in the spots. And then the sanding began.

My advice: Don't. Just don't.

So. Freaking. Tedious.

I prefer the little bottles with the tiny rear end brushes rather than the "pens" that you kinda dab on there.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

wesleywillis posted:

I prefer the little bottles with the tiny rear end brushes rather than the "pens" that you kinda dab on there.

I got a bunch of sizes of dental micro applicators that go down to .5mm, works great when you want to really do a chip good.

https://www.henryschein.com/us-en/Search.aspx?searchkeyWord=applicator

a mysterious cloak
Apr 5, 2003

Leave me alone, dad, I'm with my friends!


mobby_6kl posted:

Detailing thread: Grim determination and sanding

Thread title right there

The pens were okay - they were just reallllllly slow to release the paint, which is better than too fast, but I'm definitely using a brush or needle or something if I do it again. Although next time I'm going to limit myself to just a couple instead of ARRGH ENTIRE HOOD NOW

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

a mysterious cloak posted:

Thread title right there

The pens were okay - they were just reallllllly slow to release the paint, which is better than too fast, but I'm definitely using a brush or needle or something if I do it again. Although next time I'm going to limit myself to just a couple instead of ARRGH ENTIRE HOOD NOW
To be clear, that was stolen from the DIY subforum, but I think we can have two sanding-intensive threads :)

I've used the brush to touch up the Honda (previous posts) but the chips were pretty enormous. I've seen people use toothpicks or some weird calligraphy pens to do more detailed stuff.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
whats the current go-to place for great microfiber towels? i have gone with autogeek in the past and they've been good but also wondering what other options are also out there

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

OBAMNA PHONE posted:

whats the current go-to place for great microfiber towels? i have gone with autogeek in the past and they've been good but also wondering what other options are also out there

I've bought Chemical Guys from Amazon, sometimes they get stupid cheap. They are big and thick and just really nice to use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8MZ7IA

Last time I bought was the end of last year at $15/pack. Today's prices are stupid.

Quaint Quail Quilt
Jun 19, 2006


Ask me about that time I told people mixing bleach and vinegar is okay

OBAMNA PHONE posted:

whats the current go-to place for great microfiber towels? i have gone with autogeek in the past and they've been good but also wondering what other options are also out there
Costco, or I get a lot of stuff from theragcompany.com

I dunno if they are "great" but I wash them cold and delicate and then air dry in "rags to riches" detergent and that stuff is great for absorbency.

I also use it on my eyeglass cleaning cloths.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Unless they've changed, I really like the Kirkland towels for less sensitive stuff. Cheap enough to not worry about, but good enough to use on paint.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

meatpimp posted:

I've bought Chemical Guys from Amazon, sometimes they get stupid cheap. They are big and thick and just really nice to use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8MZ7IA

Last time I bought was the end of last year at $15/pack. Today's prices are stupid.

I like these as well. They were on sale last week and I ordered another bag.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Welp, I tried using the touchless carwash yesterday as temporary solution before doing a full wash, and it appears the water pressure was strong enough to get under the spoiler I installed and separate the VHB tape.

A few questions:
How hard is it to use one of those rubber eraser wheels to remove the tape that's left on the car? I've never had much luck with Goo Gone getting adhesive off when I've removed badges in the past.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Oumefar-Eraser-Pneumatic-Removal-Sticker/dp/B0B691NXF3


I would think a bodyshop could reinstall it in under an hour. Any ideas on what some place might charge to do it for me? I have the materials to redo it, but lining it up was a PITA the first time and obviously something about my application didn't stick.


MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
I've never used one, but from experince of other rotary type tools - be very careful with the speed, pressure and heat so that you don't burn through the paint. You could try goo gone and see if it works at all and try to polish it if you have the tools before using the eraser wheel. Sometimes you can peel/rub it off with your fingers (even it takes ages / hurts after a while). Once you get the hang of the rubber tool though it'll probably be fine, and some strong 3M mounting tape should do the trick to get the spoiler to be secure. Use plenty of isopropyl / panel decon before using the adhesive.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
Be careful with them I just damaged a plastic piece badly with one of the rubber wheels. And it’s burned through paint before. But I’ve used it on white vans paint to remove decals and it’s been great. I’d try something else first before you bust that out.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

MetaJew posted:

Welp, I tried using the touchless carwash yesterday as temporary solution before doing a full wash, and it appears the water pressure was strong enough to get under the spoiler I installed and separate the VHB tape.

A few questions:
How hard is it to use one of those rubber eraser wheels to remove the tape that's left on the car? I've never had much luck with Goo Gone getting adhesive off when I've removed badges in the past.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Oumefar-Eraser-Pneumatic-Removal-Sticker/dp/B0B691NXF3


I would think a bodyshop could reinstall it in under an hour. Any ideas on what some place might charge to do it for me? I have the materials to redo it, but lining it up was a PITA the first time and obviously something about my application didn't stick.




Might seem weird, but if you have a place that does vinyl car wraps near you, call them up and ask. Taking the car apart and putting it back together is a pretty normal part of doing the wraps, and I imagine they'd charge a lot less then a body shop.

JamesOff
Dec 12, 2002

What a frightening beast!

MetaJew posted:

I've never had much luck with Goo Gone getting adhesive off when I've removed badges in the past.

Get 3M’s “Citrus base industrial cleaner”, that works really well on VHB tape and residue. Apply generously and give it at least a couple of minutes to soak in. I use VHB for numberplates and that’s worked really well when swapping them over.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

JamesOff posted:

Get 3M’s “Citrus base industrial cleaner”, that works really well on VHB tape and residue. Apply generously and give it at least a couple of minutes to soak in. I use VHB for numberplates and that’s worked really well when swapping them over.

Any idea where to buy that? Are you referring to the aerosol or the creamy product? Both look like they're $40-50.

JamesOff
Dec 12, 2002

What a frightening beast!

MetaJew posted:

Any idea where to buy that? Are you referring to the aerosol or the creamy product? Both look like they're $40-50.

The aerosol. I got mine on Amazon a while back, looks like it was £18 back then :/ but it does last a long time at least, you don’t need to use huge amounts.

Arson Daily
Aug 11, 2003

Im buying a new car on Sunday. A 2023 Forester in blue. It's been....20 years? since I bought a brand new car and am curious what's changed since then on what to do with a new cars paint. Just clay bar and a a decent sealant/wax? maybe iron decontaminant?

TheGoatTrick
Aug 1, 2002

Semi-aquatic personification of unstoppable douchery

Arson Daily posted:

Im buying a new car on Sunday. A 2023 Forester in blue. It's been....20 years? since I bought a brand new car and am curious what's changed since then on what to do with a new cars paint. Just clay bar and a a decent sealant/wax? maybe iron decontaminant?
Definitely an iron remover. I got a new car a couple months ago and did three passes. Third still came up with a bit of purple.

If you're happy with the condition of the paint, then clay and sealant works. If not, polish and wipe down before sealant.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Probably the best time to hit it with ceramic coat. AFAIK that's the new hot poo poo and supposedly amazing.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



LloydDobler posted:

Probably the best time to hit it with ceramic coat. AFAIK that's the new hot poo poo and supposedly amazing.

Ceramic coats are more for having fab gloss and making washing a breeze, in terms of protection you get some modest extra chemical resistance but beyond that there isn't really a benefit for physical protection against scratches.

PPF is best done when new, but can be pricey and usually you only see full body PPF on luxury or high end sports cars. Might be a good idea to get a front bumper, partial hood, and mirrors on a new "normal" car as a balance between cost and the protection benefits. Will help prevent rock chips and minor scrapes.

The spray ceramic waxes are great for DIY to get most of the benefits of a pro ceramic coat application without the expense. Would just require regular reapplication.

mik
Oct 16, 2003
oh
I fell behind on my regular wash routine and I should decontaminate my car properly, but I haven't done it thoroughly in a couple years. Back then, using a clay bar or those Nanoskin synthetic things was the way to go - is that still the case? My car has PPF from the A-pillar forward - can you clay PPF?

FlapYoJacks
Feb 12, 2009

mik posted:

I fell behind on my regular wash routine and I should decontaminate my car properly, but I haven't done it thoroughly in a couple years. Back then, using a clay bar or those Nanoskin synthetic things was the way to go - is that still the case? My car has PPF from the A-pillar forward - can you clay PPF?

Yes, they are still the way to go and yes you can.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

The nanoskin mits are outstanding. Use light pressure with soapy water/clay specific lubricant otherwise they can stick/mar. It'll feel scratchy then smooth out as you remove contamination.

EDIT:

Speaking of, did the first ever paint correction on my '02 SS - wash/nanoskin clay followed by Maguiar's ultimate compound, then ultimate polish, and then two coats of Blackfire Blackice hybrid wax.



Really REALLY like how the wax turned out. Has more "glow" (from the carnauba component I assume) vs the very clear "plastic" look from synthetics I've tried in the past (looking at you Zaino). Polished off super easy even in hot-ish conditions.

amenenema fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Aug 17, 2023

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I just used the Cerakotr rapid ceramic kit on my wife's car. I usually use thr turtle wax hybrid stuff because of the project farm video but I'm hoping this is a more serious product that will last longer. We shall see!

I do wish I had an opportunity to apply this before she went camping. The dust from whereever she was was a son of a bitch to get off. Lots of scrubbing and rinsing my microfiber mitt.

If I get the opportunity I want to put another coat on it though, really get as much protection as I can.

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

What should I do with a little bit of peeling paint to prevent rust? Our car got beat up badly by hail. We fixed the glass and I don't care about the dents but a few of the large ones created cracks where the paint has peeled on the edge. It's a beater car with tons of mechanical life left so we'll just drive it like this, but I don't want it to start rusting.

Quaint Quail Quilt
Jun 19, 2006


Ask me about that time I told people mixing bleach and vinegar is okay
Once something starts rusting, it will keep rusting with exposure to air and water.

Maybe iron out, rust converter it?

I ceramic coated a spot in my wife's best friends car to keep it from spreading, but it will wear off in 6 months and she isn't going to fix it, so it's on her now I guess.

Covering bare metal with anything would be a good idea, but I've always heard rust can still spread underneath a pin hole if air and water can still get at it.

If the process is slow enough who cares I guess, I dunno I'm just spit balling.

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

Infinotize posted:

What should I do with a little bit of peeling paint to prevent rust? Our car got beat up badly by hail. We fixed the glass and I don't care about the dents but a few of the large ones created cracks where the paint has peeled on the edge. It's a beater car with tons of mechanical life left so we'll just drive it like this, but I don't want it to start rusting.

Depending on how old the car is the metal under there may be galvanized and reasonably rust-proof from that alone. If it has been a few days and it still looks grey and not rusty that's probably what you have. If it looks rusty then you will want to try your give it a similar coating, etching or cold galvinizing or rust converting primer, something like that. Knock loose all the paint that is no longer adhered so you can apply to the whole area. Follow the instructions for 'bare metal' prep and spray it on.

You could also get a bit of touch up paint (spray or brush depending on the size of the area) to cover the primer/bare patches for extra protection and somewhat better cosmetics.

111523_4
Nov 15, 2023
wow Zaino Z5 + Activator no longer works whatsoever. literally equivalent to smearing vegetable oil over your windshield

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

There is a layer of something on my windshield. I don't know if its hard water or what. It's invisible when things are dry. When I use the wipers with washer fluid, it leaves a shadow behind the blades momentarily of whatever is on there. Its long blotchy vertical streaks, but covering the whole thing. It rained yesterday for the first time since I bought the car 6 months ago, and whatever it is has rendered my wipers useless in the rain.

I had noticed it before and tried cleaning hard while washing the car, and followed up with 95% isopropyl. It did not seem to removed it. I have not tried Dawn or white vinegar. This morning I did try a spot with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, which cleaned up the spot I tried it on.

Is there a low effort chemical method? I guess white vinegar is worth a shot. I don't want to try Chemical Guy's Heavy Duty Water Spot Remover because I know from experience that it will etch glass if left on too long.

Is it safe to use the Ultimate Compound with a polishing pad? Or should I try something even less abrasive? Doing it by hand had no ill effects.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

FogHelmut posted:

There is a layer of something on my windshield. I don't know if its hard water or what. It's invisible when things are dry. When I use the wipers with washer fluid, it leaves a shadow behind the blades momentarily of whatever is on there. Its long blotchy vertical streaks, but covering the whole thing. It rained yesterday for the first time since I bought the car 6 months ago, and whatever it is has rendered my wipers useless in the rain.

I had noticed it before and tried cleaning hard while washing the car, and followed up with 95% isopropyl. It did not seem to removed it. I have not tried Dawn or white vinegar. This morning I did try a spot with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, which cleaned up the spot I tried it on.

Is there a low effort chemical method? I guess white vinegar is worth a shot. I don't want to try Chemical Guy's Heavy Duty Water Spot Remover because I know from experience that it will etch glass if left on too long.

Is it safe to use the Ultimate Compound with a polishing pad? Or should I try something even less abrasive? Doing it by hand had no ill effects.

Four-ought (#0000) steel wool and your cleaner of choice: white vinegar, invisible glass, etc. may be able to remove it and won't scratch your glass.

There are some glass polishing compounds + pads you can use. I've tried the ones that are applied by hand but I think you're better served with a buffer of some sort if you have one.

I think the glass polishing compound is cerium oxide and I believe you need a special pad as well. That's for very fine scratches and hazing-- and not if there is some substance on the glass itself.

It's probably also time to replace your wiper blades if they could be contaminated with the same stuff.

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

I didn't see it in your post but have you replaced your wipers at all?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

KakerMix posted:

I didn't see it in your post but have you replaced your wipers at all?

I will be replacing them as well, but the layer of contamination is visible even when wiping the windshield with a towel.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
I doubt any polish or compound has the power to put scratches into glass. I've used it to "deep clean" glass. I've also used cerium oxide, and even that takes a ton of work to polish out minor scratches.

Some Guy From NY
Dec 11, 2007

MetaJew posted:

Four-ought (#0000) steel wool and your cleaner of choice: white vinegar, invisible glass, etc. may be able to remove it and won't scratch your glass.

There are some glass polishing compounds + pads you can use. I've tried the ones that are applied by hand but I think you're better served with a buffer of some sort if you have one.

I think the glass polishing compound is cerium oxide and I believe you need a special pad as well. That's for very fine scratches and hazing-- and not if there is some substance on the glass itself.

It's probably also time to replace your wiper blades if they could be contaminated with the same stuff.


Can confirm, I use the #0000 steel wool on my glass all the time to get off those stubborn water marks/haze and for bug guts. you can use the steel wool dry or use a glass cleaner like invisible glass with the steel wool.

This is the steel wool I use:

https://www.amazon.com/HOMAX-PRODUC...441&sr=8-4&th=1

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I'll keep some steel wool handy for next time.

I cleaned the window and clay barred it, then Maguire's Ultimate Compound with a Chemical Guys green pad. I made a lot of passes and it seems to have cleaned everything up with no issues.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Late to the party, but I've used this to clean glass that was so spotted nothing else touched it.

https://mckees37.com/products/high-performance-glass-restorer

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Hieronymous Alloy
Jan 30, 2009


Why! Why!! Why must you refuse to accept that Dr. Hieronymous Alloy's Genetically Enhanced Cream Corn Is Superior to the Leading Brand on the Market!?!




Morbid Hound
I just got a fancy new suv (a Rav4 Prime). My last car was a Tacoma I bought new in 2005 and drove for 18 years and barely ever did a drat thing to take care of it and when I washed it before I sold it off to my brother in law this weekend . . It still looked pretty great overall apart from sun damage to the paint and nicks and scratches.

Started reading up online on how to do a better job taking care of the new car and everything is advertising ceramic and graphene coatings. Worth thinking about or not? The question I'm trying to answer is "will this meaningfully improve the lifespan of the car's paint over the next ten years or so."

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