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Whats a good headlight buffing/restoration product? Preferably something available in Canada.
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Sep 16, 2017 21:45
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The meguiars kit comes with the (whatever) coating?
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Sep 17, 2017 20:20
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Grakkus posted:Some grit got in the slit the window moves through on the car door and has left a bunch of tiny vertical scratches on the window. What's the best way of removing them? I see that a lot, and if they're deep enough, I think you remove them by getting a new window.
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Sep 17, 2017 22:54
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Hackjack posted:Is there a guide you folks would recommend for someone who knows practically nothing how to accomplish the most basic car washing possible (paint, wheels, and glass)? Detailing stuff like waxing and clay is definitely out of my reach for now. Glass is a bitch for streaking, but here is something I learned from my dad that might help: You'll need: Windex, or some knock off brand poo poo Blue Scott's shop towels. Available at pretty much any parts store. An old news paper, I find crumpling it up a bunch of times, then folding it in to quarters works good, otherwise, it seems too hard to hold (for me anyway). Soft cotton cloth, clean and dry. Pull off two blue shop towels, fold along perforated line between then and then fold that in to quarters. Spray windex on glass. Wipe back and forth, up and down several times. with blue towel When its almost dry, wipe that poo poo with newspaper to get rid of streaks. Wipe again with soft cloth. I can usually get 2 or 3 windows done with the blue towels before it gets to saturated, but when it is saturated, you can use that poo poo for mirrors, inside sunroof etc. Newspaper likes to rip though but it'll last 1-2 windows before needing to be replaced. If you're doing both inside and outside of windows, wipe one side up and down, the other side to side, that way if you still see some streaks, you know which side of the glass they're on. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Jan 17, 2018 |
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Jan 17, 2018 13:59
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100% Dundee posted:That is an incredible amount of steps for just cleaning glass. Mine is two steps and two products. Products are window cleaning specific micro fiber towels and invisible glass cleaner. Mist lightly over the window and wipe with the towel until clean/dry. Less cleaner than you think you'll need seems to work better for me. Its actually not that bad, but maybe its because I'm used to it. I don't even bother with the outside glass usually. Spray, wipe with towel, wipe with newspaper, maybe wipe with soft cloth.
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Jan 18, 2018 12:31
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I've had a few minor body repairs on my car over the years that required some repainting. The body shop guy said don't use any wax that has silicone(?) in it since that will gently caress up the paint apparently. Any recommendations on a good wax that I can use that doesn't contain silicone? Also, I've gotten my car rust proofed by Krown Rust control the last few years, I've noticed that some of the rusty proofy stuff is kinda leaking out on to my bumpers, around the door frames etc. I'm not necessarily pissed about that, but is there some way I can get rid of that poo poo? Like for example if I wanted to use the wax that is recommended to me in the above question? I've found that going through the car wash doesn't really get all of it, nor does hand washing. At least not using the car wash soap that I've got. I know they tell you not to use dish soap on cars because it (supposedly) strips off wax etc, but if I'm going to wax the thing after I wash, I don't think it matters that much. I just want to get the crap off my bumpers before I try to put a coat of wax over it.
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Sep 2, 2018 20:35
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wesleywillis posted:I've had a few minor body repairs on my car over the years that required some repainting. The body shop guy said don't use any wax that has silicone(?) in it since that will gently caress up the paint apparently. Beuller? Beuller? Beuller?........
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Sep 10, 2018 17:20
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I just picked up the Meguiar's heavy duty headlight restoration kit and will be trying my hand at unfucking one of my headlights in about an hour or so. I actually read the instructions, twice, but just wondering from anyone who has done it, any last minute tips, tricks or whatever to make the job go a bit better/easier?
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Oct 20, 2018 19:32
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wallaka posted:What's the go-to headlight polishing kit these days? Depending on how bad something like this: https://meguiars.ca/product/heavy-d...rd=&matchtype=b
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Dec 5, 2018 12:49
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Laserface posted:My Karcher recently died (the "rust free forever" pump is plastic and it loving melted, leaking more than it pumped) so I returned it and bought a Gerni instead. Plastic pump. Didn't rust. Worked as advertised..
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Jan 8, 2019 05:52
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What does "body shop safe" mean with regards to detailing products? Specifically I'm looking for a wax of some sort to wax my car. I've had some paint work done to it, and the body shop guy said "don't use anything with silicone because it will something something something paint something". I don't recall what it was that he said, just to not use stuff with silicone. From my (very brief) time as a detailer at a GM dealer I also remember the body shop guys telling me to wait till I was away from the paint booth/prep area to spray certain poo poo, like tire dressings etc. So, anyway I've been looking at some places that sell various detailing products, and there are certain items that advertise as being "body shop safe". Is that the poo poo I should be using on my car? Or is that only relevant before the car has been painted?
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May 15, 2019 21:56
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Had my (stock) rims sand blasted and Powder coated at some place a couple months back. They're getting a bit dirty and I wan to clean them bitches. I emailed the place that did the powder coating and haven't gotten a reply. I don't know much about powder coating, except its like "dry paint" they spray on ad then bake in an oven or some poo poo. Other than that, I don't know what methods, materials are used, how they may or may not differ etc. Anyone got recommendations for cleaning products? Or barring that, is there poo poo that I should make sure to NOT use?
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Jun 23, 2019 21:15
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I used the Meguiar's heavy duty headlight restoration kit a while back to polish one of my lights that was getting cloudy. Its starting to get a bit cloudy again. Can I just re-do the polishing step of this or do I have to re-sand and then re-apply the polish? Its not that bad yet.
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Sep 15, 2019 17:06
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Just my own opinion, but I feel you still need to brush the car to get rid of the film and what not. I know that touchless car washes are "better", but I always liked that soft cloth washes seem to actually rub off the poo poo on your car, like the areas on the windshield that aren't swept by the wipers for example. Problem being of course they're "worse" in the fact that who knows what kind of grit is embedded in the cloths themselves from the 345234627 other cars that were there before ours.
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Sep 29, 2019 23:16
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MrOnBicycle posted:Snow foam Off topic but: This just reminded me of the second (?) episode of Roots.
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Sep 30, 2019 17:58
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Try a soft cloth car wash. Even though the can potentially be (there is) poo poo stuck in the brushes that can harm your paint, I still prefer the soft cloth washes because they actually seem to get the road film off my car, something that the touchless washes can never seem to do. Particularly on my fuckin windows.
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Dec 14, 2019 15:48
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For whatever its worth, when I used to be a detailer at a GM dealer, I used to just spray degreaser on the engine brush it for a few minutes, and spray it off with a regular garden hose and nozzle . I'd do my best to avoid completely soaking the alternator/fuse boxes etc.. but I wouldn't spare the water either when rinsing. Perhaps it was the confidence of having the dealer service department to fall back on, but I never got worried about the car not starting or check engine lights coming on. Even if it happened, which was maybe only once or twice I'd probably just be all "yeah, I dunno what happened, CEL just came on when I drove it out of the wash bay". These were 1990s GM products after all.... But when doing my, or other people's cars, I always had a nagging suspicion of "omg what if the fuckin light comes on or it doesn't start"? It happened to my old Mazda the one time that I sprayed the engine it wouldn't start afterwards. I ended up taking a wet dry vac and sucking a bunch of water out of a bunch of poo poo, and it started working again. Another time on my brother's car, the check engine light came on and of course "I broke his car"......... God I hate dirty cars, but I also hate cleaning them. Being a detailer was the worst job I ever had. Probably because I was awful at it.
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Apr 15, 2020 16:54
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I'd use something a lot higher than 600 grit.
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May 22, 2020 17:39
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Got ya, I figured the 2000+ grit would be for polishing, thinking that 600 would leave marks too big to polish out, but if you're putting clear over them, then 600 is probably sufficient.
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May 22, 2020 19:31
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I've got a few paint chips on my hood and other places. The touch up paint thing from toyota is like a double ended pen. Paint at one end clear on the other. The chips are kinda small and doing the recommended "dabbing" with the paint pen makes it look worse. If I just dispense some paint on a piece of plastic or cardboard, what, besides an actual small-rear end paint brush would work or could work as a suitable substitute for a brush or brush like device?
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Jul 2, 2020 12:11
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Why is it that everyone seems to say not to use armorall on dashboards, door panels etc?
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Aug 15, 2020 15:54
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So...... Don't use armorall because it just sucks as opposed to doing damage to dashboard, panels etc...? Is this 303 aero something that can be picked up at most parts/big box stores or is it one of those hipster, obscure things that can only be found in one place during a particular time of year?
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Aug 15, 2020 18:17
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I don't know if its just urban legend, but I always remember hearing that if you dump brake fluid on a car's painted surface, it'll make the paint peel off. I guess assuming it stays on there long enough.
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Aug 15, 2020 18:33
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Its not a bad thing, that faded as gently caress headlights could make a car fail. I wish more people actually took that poo poo serious. Actually having standards WRT headlights might make there be less assholes out with mad sick EHCH EYE DEEZ that blind the gently caress out of other drivers, and people who are oblivious to the fact that their headlights are either not on at night, or the lenses are so faded, that a candle would be more effective.
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Aug 15, 2020 21:11
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I put a coat of wax on my car for the first time in probably 10 years, and have two questions. I got some on the "coarse" plastic at the base of the side view mirrors, and it didn't really buff off like on the smoother plastic parts. I tried with a plastic bristled brush, and a dish sponge with the plastic scouring part. Neither worked. Any suggestions? I had the door open to get a bit closer to the roof and spilled some wax on the back seat. Just a little bit. Should I just let it dry up and flake it off with a brush/fingat nail etc? Its a Carnuba type wax if that makes a difference. This stuff: https://bloomco.ca/products/banana-creme-wax?_pos=1&_sid=a67f40434&_ss=r
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Nov 7, 2020 19:38
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Don't know if this is the place to ask this, but how durable are body wraps? This spring, I might be getting a new vehicle, a truck and I've been thinking of getting it wrapped but I have questions. Possibly questions I don't even know about yet. I'm hoping to take it off the beaten path a bit, and want to protect the paint from scratches. I know its not going to do me any good if I bounce it off a boulder or some poo poo or a tree falls on it. Ultimately my goal is to keep the actual paint from getting "bush pinstripes" as much as possible. In this sense, I understand that "how durable" would be a question for like, how big are these theoretical branches that might be otherwise making stripes on your body and perhaps how often I wash my vehicles (fairly regularly). Realistically, I anticipate going far enough off the beaten path for something like that to happen only a few times a year, so this isn't something it'll be subjected to on a regular basis. Honestly, even though I don't want to gently caress up a wrap job that costs thousands of dollars, I'd rather it get hosed up than the paint. It seems like it would be less hassle, and cost to re-wrap a fender say, than repaint a fender. I've checked out a few places and they typically mention that wraps last 4-5 years. I'm hoping for longer, but that'll probably depend on how it gets used on my part. What sort of things should I look for in a wrap job or business that does this sort of work, besides obviously, reviews to make sure they're not crooks etc. Is there a type of vinyl thats more durable than another? Like type X is "consumer grade", while type Y is a "commercial grade" sort of thing? Tell me about wraps yo!
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Feb 19, 2021 01:18
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Self healing? Hmmmmm..... I don't give a poo poo about colour changes. It would likely be a brand new truck, so I'd just get whatever the poo poo colour I want. How do they react to things like wax and such? I've had my current car for 12 years and have only put one or two coats of wax on it, since I bought it, but I might consider doing this more often in the future.
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Feb 19, 2021 03:17
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3-4Gs huh? I'm in Canada, so it'll probably be more like 5-6, which I've already been preparing myself for. I should have the budget for that.
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Feb 19, 2021 14:27
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mobby_6kl posted:It's important to protect your truck equity! I'm 41 and if my current car is any indication, I will have this truck until somewhere in my mid 50s. So yes.
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Feb 20, 2021 02:17
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As I discussed a page or two ago, I'm hoping to get a new ride in the near future, and plan on getting it completely wrapped with some paint protection film. Also oil sprayed. Should I get it wrapped before or after the oil spraying? Seems like before would be better since the anti-rust poo poo might drip and cause problems with adhesion but I'd like some opinions. Thanks goony goons.
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Mar 27, 2021 19:55
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smooth jazz posted:Is oil spraying undercoating? If so, I don't think one would interfere with installation of the other... Undercoating is more like tar that they spray on the underside. Oil spray (though its not always "oil") is stuff that they spray on the underside, and inside doors, trunk etc.. After I get my car done, it sometimes will leak out for a few days, and every now and then.
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Mar 28, 2021 03:31
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mobby_6kl posted:For almost 6 grand, couldn't you just repaint later whatever is necessary? In Canadastan, 6 racks will get you a mediocre paint job at most places. I guess if you're going to sell the car after then it doesn't matter.
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Mar 29, 2021 11:41
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I seem to recall, possibly a goon many years ago having this problem, and using oven cleaner. If I recall correctly, its something like if you get the dust on your poo poo, clean it off asap with (products, don't recall what) otherwise, if it just gets wet, it will harden the gently caress on there. Sorry I ain't got anything else besides that.
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Apr 15, 2021 23:02
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It's been nice all week and. I'm just waiting for my ride to go pick up my Tacoma that spent the week getting covered with paint protection film and a ceramic coat on it. Now they're calling for thunderstorms later today. Fffffffuuuuuuuccccckkkkk!!!
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Aug 7, 2021 15:25
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Welp, just heard some thunder, and here are some pics. As I've admitted before, I'm an awful photographer, so the lighting and whatnot is probably bullshit, but here it is. Its a lot shinier in person than it probably looks in the pictures.   E: Oh yeah, that fuckin rain is coming down. 7200 bucks fuckin getting poured on.
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Aug 7, 2021 19:30
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Coverage is bumper to bumper. Top of the roof to the bottom of the rocker panels. Plus a "three year" ceramic coating. That's 13% taxes included. Shop has an excellent reputation. Quality costs money E: I plan on keeping this thing for a long time. Plus I gotta protect the finish from all that pussy shrapnel 
wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Aug 8, 2021 |
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Aug 8, 2021 00:03
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FWIW, the place I brought it to advertises "full coverage" starting at 4500 bones. This is Canada so a lot of poo poo is just generally more expensive than USA-stan. The quote for this thing was about 5600 (don't have the email in front of me), plus 13% tax so about 6300 bucks. The guy said there were certain parts that don't already have patterns they can cut out so they had to "freestyle" things in a few places. I'd imagine that added a few bucks to the price. Then the ceramic coat on top of that. I knew what I was getting in to, sorry if it sounded like some dumb internet flex. I was just pissed that I couldn't go a single fuckin day with this thing shiny as gently caress before it rained.
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Aug 8, 2021 03:53
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LeeMajors posted:Gotta protect that truck equity You need to keep up with this thread, you were beaten by like 6 months on this comment Observe: mobby_6kl posted:It's important to protect your truck equity! My answer is still the same though. AmbassadorofSodomy posted:I'm 41 and if my current car is any indication, I will have this truck until somewhere in my mid 50s.
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Aug 8, 2021 20:21
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meatpimp posted:The cost/benefit analysis has already been adjudicated, and I can see both sides. For me, I'd be way more concerned about paint condition and such WITH $7k of protection, mostly because I know I'd spend all that money and get some dumb scrape on it and hate life. I see your point about being scared to gently caress it up with it on there because of the added expense of fixing any damages *and* replacing the film. I have committed to taking that gamble and what happens, happens. This stuff has a ten year warranty and my hopes are that with proper care, I can take it off in...... 12 years? 15? And underneath I still have paint that is mint or really goddam close to mint. Or if it still looks good maybe I'll leave it on. I'll report back to the thread in 10-15 years.
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Aug 9, 2021 01:25
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What the poo poo was this stuff that it can put cast iron?
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Oct 28, 2021 22:37
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