|
adorai posted:lets pretend for a minute that I suck at detailing, and I didn't mask off the rubber/plastic bits before I waxed one day last summer. How do I get the wax off of these pieces without expending an entire days effort? This sounds ridiculous and you'll probably laugh, but, peanut butter. Its insanely effective. Just put a tiny (and I mean tiny, you don't need much) amount of peanut butter on a piece of cloth (microfiber, cotton, paper towel, whatever) and rub the white wax residue with it and then wipe it clean with a clean section of the cloth. It works immediately and doesn't dull the black trim at all. It's not messy at all unless you use too much peanut butter. I was skeptical at first of this too but I've done it a few times now and it works so well. WD-40 works too but it's much messier. Phone posted:What do you recommend for not getting water spots? Wax? Waterspots are somewhat inevitable especially with a darker color car, but wax actually makes waterspots worse in my experience because pollen sticks to the wax and wax causes the water to bead up on the surface with the pollen instead of laying flat, and then when it dries in the sun you get little spots wherever the beads of water/pollen were. Sealants seem to work better than wax and seem to dramatically reduce water spots compared to waxes in my experience, I think because they bead up less than carnauba waxes and pollen/dust doesn't stick to them as much. My favorite is Ultima Paint Guard Plus, very dumb name I know but it's extremely easy to apply and it lasted 11 months on my car. Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Mar 26, 2012 |
#
¿
Mar 26, 2012 01:45
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 06:04 |
|
|
PitViper posted:A quality lambs wool or microfiber wash mitt helps with swirls as well, as long as your was bucket is clean. I'm OCD about avoiding sand when I wash, to the point that I have 3-4 wash mitts just in case one touches the ground. Also using a soft touch and clean microfiber towels when using detailer's spray. I hate the glossy look too. I just clean my interior with Optimum No Rinse diluted to the quick detailing spray ratio whenever I wash my car, which is also what I use as my quick detailer. It's very cheap. If it's really dirty I use DP Interior cleaner.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 26, 2012 03:24
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Use a quick detailing product and a microfiber if you want to wipe your paint down. That will at least help buffer the grit against scratching your paint too badly. Really you should just wash though. I don't use QD to clean between washes like I used to, it definitely caused light scratches and swirls on both cars I've owned. I now just either do a full wash, or if my car isn't that dirty I'll do a rinseless wash with ONR, but that's the least I'll do. If I get birdpoop on my car between washes I use this technique to remove it as soon as possible and I haven't noticed any damage by doing this. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/23231-how-safely-remove-dried-bird-dropping.html
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2012 22:14
|
|
|
the spyder posted:Can anyone recommend a carpet cleaner? My shop was behind a detail shop and I was spoiled by the twin vac massive unit they had. It worked amazing. I need something smaller (that can also do carpets) for home use. Bissell Little Green Machine
|
|
#
¿
May 31, 2012 22:25
|
|
|
TheFrailNinja posted:I was looking up how to clean wheels and tires and I found this: Yeah I used to use cheap tire dressing from parts stores and noticed my tires turning brown when it wore off. I've been using Optimum Opti-bond for a while now and when it wears off they just look like non-dressed tires, no more browning. I bought a gallon of Opti-bond and dilute it 1:1 with water because its very thick water based gel, its a bit easier to apply once diluted. So it's basically $35 for 2 gallons of tire dressing. Avoid this dressing if you want your tires to look shiny/glossy. When this dressing dries it just makes your tires look brand new, it doesn't make them look shiny and dressed. They just look like brand new tires, which is what I like. Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Aug 23, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Aug 23, 2012 20:41
|
|
|
Scott808 posted:If any of you guys wants to pick up a DA polisher - Amazon has the 25 foot cord Griot's Garage 6" for $96 right now. They also had the 10 foot cord version for $80, but it appears to be sold out. You're going to love the Griot's. I recommend getting a 5" backing plate and 5.5" pads if you don't already have them.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 20, 2012 21:30
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:So I've got a '94 BMW 540 with original paint that needs some love. What kind of pads and product should I be looking at to go with a 7424XP? I'm pretty sure it's single stage paint, if that matters, and it just has some swirls and is a little hazy in some spots, no cracking or anything like that. Good cheap wax: Poorboy's Natty's Red http://www.autogeek.net/poorboys-nattys-red-wax.html Make sure you get a 5" backing plate and not a 6" when you buy your PC7424xp Viggen posted:I have some hard water spots on a black car. Washing them and gently buffing did not get them out. They're not noticeable until you get within 2'. Please tell me there's an option other than 'put your elbow into it'.. What do you mean by "gently buffing"? What did you use? Try clay bar. If that doesn't work try going to a parts store and getting some Meguiar's 205 and buffing it by hand with an applicator pad if you don't own a buffer. Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Sep 26, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Sep 26, 2012 21:24
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:Thanks. Are the CCS pads really worth getting over the regular ones that come with autogeek's 7424xp kit? Would I still go with orange and white? If you haven't bought a buffer yet I recommend buying the Griot's Garage 6" buffer and buying the pads seperately only if it's cheaper. The Griot's Garage buffer has a more powerful motor so it's easier to keep spinning under pressure than the PC7424xp. I believe the Griot's has a lifetime warranty also. You will definitely want 6 pads for the first time you do your car if it needs any decent amount of correction. Scott808 posted:Is there a reason you prefer the CCS pads? From the things I've read it seems like most people prefer the regular flat pads and think the CCS thing is mostly a gimmick. I have no experience with them myself, although I do have a few of the CCS hand pads that I intend to use on really tight spaces. I couldn't find the normal flat hand pads, but of course there's no velcro on the backside of the hand pad, so I guess that side is effectively a regular flat pad. I think this is because the pockets in the pad. Another reason I like them better is they seem to be more durable than my lake country flat pads, though I have no proof or way to measure this, you'll just have to take my word for it I guess. You're going to love the Griot's DA.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2012 02:40
|
|
|
SouthLAnd posted:Is this Meguiar's kit a good deal for someone that is basically starting from http://www.autogeek.net/ultima-paint-guard-plus-4.html Not a wax but a sealant. Easy to apply, lasts a longg time. http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-no-rinse.html Mix this stuff up in various dilutions and use it for cleaning EVERYTHING. http://www.autogeek.net/griots-detailing-clay.html Obvious clay bar Meguiar's Gold Class Car wash Soap (or Dawn) A good wash mitt 2 buckets, grit guards. Just be extra careful washing it and don't take it to tunnel washes if you want to maintain the finish.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2012 03:34
|
|
|
sean10mm posted:What's the safest way to remove (or just make less noticable) light scuffs on the surface of body-colored bumper covers? Depends on the type of mark. Is it on top of the paint or scratched into the paint? Is it scratches or stone chips? Need more information.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2012 15:05
|
|
|
sean10mm posted:Looks like a bunch of small scratches on the surface, doesn't look like it penetrates the paint. Wash your car so there's no dirt on the area you'll be rubbing and buy some of the Meguiar's Ultimate Polish or Meguiar's ColorX and buff the affected area with it. You don't need to push hard, just make lots of light pressure passes until the marks are gone. Ideally you need a non-abrasive chemical polish but I'm not aware of any you'll find at a store other than ColorX. Meguiar's Ultimate polish is very light on the abrasive scale so as long as you're not pressing hard you shouldnt be removing much if any clear coat by hand.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2012 15:39
|
|
|
Viggen posted:I just used a microfiber towel and half-assed buffing the most noticeable spots. Since they disappeared after doing so, I gave it a bit of spray wax (yeah, I know its mostly worthless). Clay bar may not even work, look at the spots very closely and see if they have pitted the paint. I've had water spots so bad that they actually ate through part of the clear. If it's below the surface, clay bar won't do anything, and it will need to be machine polished.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2012 16:17
|
|
|
Weinertron posted:Detail guys: Would you expect the paint to stay in better shape on a car that had been opti-coated, or one that had wax applied every 3 months? I'm considering getting an opti-coat done, the idea of never having to wax is appealing but I'm not completely sold on it being worth the money. Neither wax or opticoat are going to keep it looking nice by themselves though, one bad wash will still leave you with swirls. Wash technique is the most important thing to maintaining your cars finish. That being said, Opticoat will protect your paint better than any wax or sealant that I know of from bird poo poo, contaminants, etc. Opti-coat is basically like another layer of clearcoat, so if it gets damaged you can hopefully buff it off and your actual paint won't be harmed, at least that's the idea. Wax is the same idea but more a temporary, less hardy protection than Opticoat.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2012 22:27
|
|
|
zundfolge posted:Does anyone have any hints for getting washer fluid stains off of white paint? I filled up my washer reservoir with a Rain-X fluid that has an orange dye in it, and it's left some spots on my hood that won't come off, even with vigorous scrubbing. Try some Meguiar's ColorX.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2012 22:41
|
|
|
standardtoaster posted:So I have la little bit of rust emerging on my factory black steel wheels that is showing through my hubcap spokes. Could I just use some black rustoleum or something to touch them up? (I will never have the time and will never be willing to pay money for powder coating.) Yeah, you can do that.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 18, 2012 21:30
|
|
|
West SAAB Story posted:I don't have anything to buff with except some microfibre cloth. That has done me 'mostly' well, except for when I spend two weekends claybarring and cleaning the car afterwards. Tape off around the headlight. Wet sand with 600grit sandpaper and spray with clearcoat. Or just buy one of those 3M headlight restore kits.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2014 01:59
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 06:04 |
|
|
Bape Culture posted:I just bought a bunch of poorboys stuff to get my paint all lovely. Can't wait to get it on. It's been my experience that trying to protect your wheels is a waste of time. I've used almost everything and brake dust has defeated it all in short time. Brake dust is evil. Just clean them as well as you can when you clean your car.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2014 01:06
|
|