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everdave
Nov 14, 2005

i like Ham posted:

I picked up a used GX 460 last March or April that is generally in exceptional shape. With that said, I occasionally get into it and feel like I get a faint smoke smell. My guess is that the original owner smoked or had a spouse that smoked, but they got it cleaned frequently enough that no visible evidence ever accumulated. It’s not the end of the world, but it is starting to bother me. I’m trying to decide if I want to just buy an ozone generator and be done, or if I should just buy a can of Ozium to see if that works. I don’t really have any other need for an ozone generator, but have admittedly always wanted one. Price isn’t really a concern, but it is another thing taking up space in the garage, so I suppose that plays a role. Looking at this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JAP733I?tag=htwtbal1042-20&th=1


I got this one a few months ago on a lightning deal for $50 (70 now) it has stellar reviews, replacement parts are available and I can vouch it WORKS. Highly recommend.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0795P2674/


Now let me ask a question. I import a lot of vehicles and I am trying to decide what to do on two Toyota vans. One is a camper van that has some decals I need removed, so far they are pretty easy to steam off so just kind of "how do you prefer to remove decals that have been on there 2+ decades). But they aren't super grimy or anything.

The next is called a Lite Ace and it has the factory graphics that are sun faded, peeling and need removing or replacing. If I remove there is just thick as can be adhesive residue that has turned rock hard underneath. How best to remove or is there a best way without sanding it and painting? The van may get some paint work OR I might just be better off selling as is. Here is a pic:

everdave fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Mar 2, 2020

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everdave
Nov 14, 2005

meatpimp posted:

Let me, sir, introduce you to this little bit of magic (The cheaper versions work too, but official recommendation is 3M):

https://www.amazon.com/Stripe-Wheel...EVRK7YGZAAYYDB3

I have seen your detailing work so I trust what you are saying but that seems too good to be true...

I mean I am ready to click order now. For real? And crusty 25 year old adhesive?

Let me know I will have that ordered before I leave work today

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

meatpimp posted:

If it was me, I'd order one of the cheaper rubber adhesive removers with the mandrel molded in, plus some Rapid Remover and see which one works better. It's kinda uncharted territory, but I bet you'll find luck with one of the two, if not both.

Edit: The key to all types of attacks on this project: patience. Work slowly and let the product do the work.

Will do!

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

KakerMix posted:

They work amazingly well yes. Your biggest issue will be the paint underneath is not going to be worn or faded as much as the paint that wasn't under the decal. I have done it on multiple imports, from small things like the side of the Prado that said 'EFI TURBO DIESEL' from 1991 to the entire decal package on the 93 Rugger we had.

Word, I'd love your input on whether to put this up for sale As-IS paint wise with decals, remove decals, or remove decals and have paint work done. This is a time capsule inside with the weird rubber floor covering installed and the seats encapsulated in plastic since new. There were a smoker but I have already removed the smell with ozone. Attaching a pic of the damaged paint.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
It would need some paint and body work to be perfect on the upper quarters but the dent isn’t as bad as it looks.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I started using one of those decal removal wheels. Not as magical as I was hoping. Will get a pic later...

Here are pics



everdave fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Apr 2, 2020

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

meatpimp posted:

Top one looks okay, looks like you are getting down to the clearcoat, but not going through it. Just the way you want. Obviously, there's some adhesive residue and, from what I've found, you need to find a balance of temperature (built up with friction), pressure and movement... all without going through the clear. It's tough, but once you get the hang of it, it works. Also, try Goo Gone on the adhesive and see if that'll remove it once you get to that stage. It would make a holy hell of a mess, with stickiness everywhere, but again... no pain, no gain.


Yeah at least it is not burning through paint. I brought some goo gone home from work and it just didn't seem to do much of anything. And my god the amount of dust from the remover disc is insane. I tried some citrus degreaser in my workshop. Man I just don't know this could be days of work from the method i am using now. Beyond a few hours it is not going to be cost effective for me to do this myself.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I have been experimenting with stuff I have and I have also been leery of using water on engine bays but....

One of those kids with supercar channels on youtube this kid swears by scrubbing bubbles for engine bays and i had some under the sink...and i have to tell you, i have just used it lightly and i have been very impressed.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
Totally see your point and I am not aware and concerned, but I did a light mist and immediately wiped off hoses and things. Definitely didn't do a soak and leave on plastics or rubber.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I started using cheap dollar store/HF/amazon brushes and drill brush attachments and just wow. Cleaning a filthy work truck interior today (my kei bucket truck) dollar tree orange degreaser, handheld brushes and a drill attachment just wow and for a few dollars to save hours of elbow grease.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005


Building a shed up front by the driveway just for car related bits.

In headlight chat just use a kit on sale and make sure to use a powered drill
And don’t do it by hand. Clear over it.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
Maybe everyone knows about this but it seems amazing to me, had scratches and rust in said scratches on roof of one of my Japanese campers. Used this Krud Kitter that was on clearance at Walmart and some dollar store supplies and I am stunned. Unless the RV is now going to split in half I see no downside. You don’t need as much just squirt a little on the s rubber and it just gets the rust off. Uploaded to YouTube:

https://youtu.be/PN-njmtruA0

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I filled them in with touch up paint. I just tried this because I was going to sand and prime the spots and wrap the whole roof and I may still wrap it white but this cuts out any need for sanding, I am on a ladder 10 feet in the air here so it doesn’t have to be showroom slick up there

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

BraveUlysses posted:

griots stuff is great!


to be clear, you're removing rust stains, not actual rust. i still winced at using a green pad on paint but i guess it's up to you how you want to treat your car

That big spot was a rust stain for sure but it removed rust from scratches. Again this was a roof of an RV that I though I was going to sand and wrap anyways.

If anyone else wanted to try this DO NOT follow directions on bottle where it says spray it on and let it sit until rust disappears. Spraying it on a microfiber towel and wiping with it should have a similar effect. The roof was so grimy from sitting under a tree I am not worried about the green pad, but I would not do that on a "normal" car. If you have some light rust in roof channels or anything I would absolutely recommend this stuff, spray it lightly wipe it off with microfiber.

It took the deep scratches down to metal from rust and I was able to fill with touch up paint.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

Phone posted:

i'm going to wash the truck for the first time sometime soon (no promises, it's been like 5+ years so what's another month or two) and there's some places in the bed where the paint's worn through and there's some surface rust... what's a semi-effort thing to do? buy some por15 and hit it with clearcoat?

keep in mind, i've owned this truck for 5+ years and i haven't washed it. ever.

Post a picture. A few pages back i used this krud kutter rust remover and with a wipe it took off surface rust for me to touch up. its cheap and may be worth picking up a bottle and giving it a try for less than $10. Just don't let it sit like it says just spray it on and wipe off 30 seconds later.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

Chinatown posted:

Can someone recommend me a (preferably cordless) vacuum for the car that doesn't suck rear end?

I can not because I do not own a cordless, but for cheapness to usefulness combo the “hyper tough” wet/dry mini vac at Walmart for about $25 along with a $10-15 accessory set from eBay has been insanely useful for the money getting into nooks and crannies and even doing some extraction from carpets.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I can usually deal with spots or stains with what I have on hand, but one of my campers was smoked in. If a spot opens on my driveway I think I’m goi g to tackle the carpeted walls and bunk area pop top ceiling. No spots but it was smoked in so it’s dingy (no smell), but taking a light fixture down it’s obvious it used to be bright off white versus dingy white.

I ha e this carpet cleaning machine bc it was on clearance at Walmart for like $25 (I have never opened it I have hardwood floors in my house)

SpotBot Pet handsfree Spot and Stain Cleaner with Deep Reach Technology 33N8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y3AA2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dhoGFbJ7CFRK8

How would y’all tackle a large carpeted wall and above your head area? I have a small steam machine (kettle size) and of course have wet dry vacs and such.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I immensely enjoyed the Ammo videos but no way am I buying his products. But I’m a subscriber and watch all his videos

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

BraveUlysses posted:

i know electric pressure washers arent as good as gas but i dont think i can justify the space and hassle of a gas PW...so whats the best brand for powering a foam cannon and occasionally cleaning my driveway off every year or two? sunjoe? karcher? prefer to keep it under 200, possibly including extended warranty.

I think Karcher makes most of the Walmart stuff and house brands. I got an armor all one I think and it is made by Karcher. Other than the hassle of an electric I haven’t had any complaints. I added some HF quick fittings for the hoses. All in all not bad for $100 something, plenty of power. Even for cleaning de k and sidewalks.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
SunJoe electric PW for $120- 20% coupon on eBay right now

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sun-Joe-SP...6c33fee828d4f52

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
The ozone generator I use and paid $75 for is on sale for $42 at Amazon, highly recommend.

I’ve been using “Tire Wet” lately because I have to take lots of pictures when I am getting cars ready for sale. I have much more expensive tire dressing and non-shiny ones but I have been surprised at the end result when spraying faded black bumpers. Spray it on a shop rag and wipe them down good and it provides a nice, weeks long lasting color to them that isn’t shiny at all, for literal pennies per application.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
We were using Bleche-White back in high school early 90’s. Found out the hard way when aluminum wheels started being more prevalent, would turn them kind of chalky white looking.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
Pee meatpimps Rex, I used cerakote today. Unused the wipes and it was tedious and frustrating. If they have it in liquid I think I would much prefer. It did wonders though on my window sills where it says Turbo on my Bongo van I would have never put my bumper shine on there. I do t think this was a good one to start because most of the trim is actually gray and it did shine it. I used most of the box of wipes on one vehicle. Was really hoping for absolute miracle I will use these in the future but to maintain a fleet of stuff I think I’ll just do the quick and dirty silicone sprays.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005


Don’t get me wrong Cerakote is very good, made the gray geill trim super nice and satiny. But I used most of the $20+ box of wipes on this one vehicle.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
Has anyone found a buffer/polisher that is very small? Like 3 inches?

Working with little white Kei trucks it would be very nice to have something to get under and around the windshields and bed sides (they aren't flat). The 6" is too big. I saw a 3" polisher for like $80 at HF but A. that is pricy and B. didn't know if it would burn through the paint

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

DoubleT2172 posted:

Well i was going to link the Griots G8 Mini but that's $140 so if $60 is too expensive i don't know what to tell ya!

I’ll check it out I’m just being a spendthrift - if it will save me hours it will be worth it I’ll look it up

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
Will look into it - I do see some 3” ones on Amazon in the $50 range will read some reviews

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
All good info - I am worried the body of the buffer will interfere with getting into small areas. I ordered a stack of 3" pads and backing accessories for around $20 on Amazon so I will at least try that first with my 6" buffer.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I have some backers and odd to use on the 6” and also I can use on an assortment of cordless screwdrivers/drills with attachments. Will be very cautious and go slow but I’m hoping I can use these together to buff those really narrow hard to get areas. Some of my drills have wide range of speeds and I can dial it in with the trigger to not risk burning the paint I think

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I bought the Cerakote wipes. I am not a fan - especially not on black bumper bits. Was a mess honestly and hard to work with IMO. BUT I used them on gray plastic on a Bongo van and I still see the new owner on IG - it has retained the silky matte finish from the cerakote there or at least looks the same as when I did it.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I spring for that fancy red meguiars red cone thing for the drill. Unless it is user error which is very possible it is fall apart garbage.

However been using some tire gel from them and it holds up great very nice but klidgt to apply but worth the results (either of these could be mothers as well it’s been a long day and I’m not home)

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I want to get my life to white brake caliper level

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I’ve repaired real carpet in hotel rooms on spring break in the 90’s that way (cutting carpet fibers and gluing them in the hole)

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
None of my cars have leather (all JDM imports and they like cloth/wool)

I've never used it but The Chemical Guys posted a vid recently using their leather cleaner and it looked impressive. And I have tons of their stuff and it all smells nice. And I absolutely LOVE the Butter Wax I use it all the time to make black marks and scrapes disappear.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
drat I know what I’m watching later! I have the blue meguiars it seems good will see what the video says. I have some expensive mothers too I haven’t tried

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
Some of my favorite tools are a couple of cheap rechargeable drill type screwdrivers/drills. I use the orange black and decker wakes tone for the most delicate stuff (attaching whatever pad from soft to the roughest green ones) and a cheapie word one that I can use the trigger to go from nothing to fast. Really helps when I’m trying to get stuff off or polished without risking burning the paint.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I get vehicles with the Japanese company names covered in this horrible brown tape that bakes for months sitting in port. I have every variation of those wheels and some work better than others.

What color is your Honda?

On white vehicle I’ve used my lowest powered weak battery powered drill with one of those green scotch broke type pads on it and with it barely moving…like it barely rotating in combo with goo gone lightly go over it. Removes it like a champ, you just have to have the lightest touch in the world and trigger co tell to barely have it rotating. Too much by a bit and scratches and flinch and pull the trigger and burn through the paint

After spending 6 hours+ removing poo poo before I go to this AFTER using the wheel and razor blades etc…

Works great

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
If you are going to have spare try the flame method?

https://youtu.be/1uJF7k7faGs

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
You want to find a PDR dude who doesn’t have to advertise. Especially not on Facebook like hey Hip whatever I’m starting to do PDR

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everdave
Nov 14, 2005
drat $450! Last one I had removed I think was only $100 a 5 door Prado, pre Covid. My
80 series I’d like to remove the rear tint and go clean all the way around bc if some scrapes and a few bubbles but not if it’s much over $100 and it sounds like it will be.

Did you have a rear defroster in the one you removed?

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