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So last year I started on the basics of leather working with a half shoulder of 5 ounce veg tan, and so far I've only made a few things. I don't have any pictures, but I've cut, dyed, and stitched some little pouches and such, and cut a cover for a book that never got made. I joined the navy and have been away from it for a while, but I'm going to jump head first back into it soon. I plan on making a medium sized backpack out of leather and a repurposed navy sea bag, which is the exact same thing as an army duffel, so it's pretty much just super heavy fabric. I'm not entirely sure what it's made of, but from what I can find, I think it's nylon. My question is, does anyone here have any experience with stripping the color and redying heavy fabrics? It's a plain green color now, and I think I'd like to dye it a shade of brown. Any ideas?
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May 8, 2014 20:29
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Akula Raskolnikova posted:So last year I started on the basics of leather working with a half shoulder of 5 ounce veg tan, and so far I've only made a few things. I don't have any pictures, but I've cut, dyed, and stitched some little pouches and such, and cut a cover for a book that never got made. I joined the navy and have been away from it for a while, but I'm going to jump head first back into it soon. I plan on making a medium sized backpack out of leather and a repurposed navy sea bag, which is the exact same thing as an army duffel, so it's pretty much just super heavy fabric. I'm not entirely sure what it's made of, but from what I can find, I think it's nylon. My question is, does anyone here have any experience with stripping the color and redying heavy fabrics? It's a plain green color now, and I think I'd like to dye it a shade of brown. Any ideas? Dying it a darker color will probably work. But fabric is relatively cheap; you will probably spend as much on dye as you would if you just bought new fabric in the color you want.
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May 8, 2014 20:58
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I'm ordering all the essential leatherworking tools at once, and after reading Al Stohlman's "Craftool Tech-Tips" (badass book btw) I'm still a little unsure which stamps to buy. Can anyone recommend some basic essential stamps? I don't want to spend hundreds here, just something to practice with.. make some belts and holsters. I'd definitely like a rope stamp of some sort, I know that.
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May 26, 2014 09:21
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Google Butt posted:I'm ordering all the essential leatherworking tools at once, and after reading Al Stohlman's "Craftool Tech-Tips" (badass book btw) I'm still a little unsure which stamps to buy. Can anyone recommend some basic essential stamps? I don't want to spend hundreds here, just something to practice with.. make some belts and holsters. I'd definitely like a rope stamp of some sort, I know that. It depends on what styles you plan on doing. Sheridan and Floral carving uses a lot of rather specific tools, like a veiner, that don't see much use elsewhere. I'm fond of celtic knotwork, and all that really needs is a swivel knife and a beveler, along with some sort of texture stamp or backgrounder. So the answer is, "it depends"
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May 26, 2014 13:02
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Pagan posted:It depends on what styles you plan on doing. Sheridan and Floral carving uses a lot of rather specific tools, like a veiner, that don't see much use elsewhere. I'm fond of celtic knotwork, and all that really needs is a swivel knife and a beveler, along with some sort of texture stamp or backgrounder. I'm not familiar with the different styles. Can you name the styles? I'll take a look and report back. Thanks.
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May 26, 2014 18:43
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One more thing, if I'm planning on using a dremel with the drill press attachment to make holes for sewing, do I still need to buy an awl?
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May 26, 2014 20:24
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Google Butt posted:One more thing, if I'm planning on using a dremel with the drill press attachment to make holes for sewing, do I still need to buy an awl? I'd say Sheridan is the only real style; there's Sheridan and "everything else." What type of things do you plan on making? An Awl will still come in useful, even with a Dremel. So yes.
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May 27, 2014 02:23
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Pagan posted:I'd say Sheridan is the only real style; there's Sheridan and "everything else." What type of things do you plan on making? Ah, so Sheridan is the style that Al shows in his book (which is amazing, and is available as an ebook here). I ended buying a Craftool lot off ebay, which came with 6 stamps (A104, P206, C431, V407, B200, S705), USA made. I also picked up a USA made G548 geometric stamp. I'm going to start off with some belts with borders, then maybe some swivel knife designs. My local leather supply store sells scrap by weight, so I'm going to buy mountains of it to practice on. What I really want to make is Ian Atkinson's friction sheath: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIOGDykXJFQ But I'm going to start with belts. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 02:41 on May 27, 2014 |
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May 27, 2014 02:39
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Is there a preferred method for cleaning leather that has mildew on it? I have an antique toolbox with a leather strap that needs some love. Can post pics when I get home from work.
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May 28, 2014 17:32
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iForge posted:Is there a preferred method for cleaning leather that has mildew on it? I have an antique toolbox with a leather strap that needs some love. Can post pics when I get home from work. Saddle Soap.
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May 28, 2014 18:45
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If I wanted to imitate this guy's style: http://www.bobsbelts.com/belts.htm What kind of sewing equipment would I need and where can I source leather of that thickness?
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May 29, 2014 20:03
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You're going to have to look at Cowboy sewing machines and the like that can go through thick vegtan leather. Typically they start at 1200 and even used are a grand off Craigslist, there are also some different feet you're going to need that sell at 40-60 a piece. When I was trying to find the proper sewing machine for what I was doing I hit http://leatherworker.net/forum/ which has some incredibly helpful people, I tried to read all I could before asking a question and made a few friends from that forum in the process, some fantastic folks over there. I'd also suggest doing some map searches for local industrial sewing suppliers who typically have a small show room of machines you can test out, I was on the fence with a Cowboy and a Juki and ended up going with the Juki for personal reasons. I don't like the bar height sewing setup, again personal preference but I figured that out at a local shop trying out the two different machines. I would have been pissed off discovering I didn't like sitting on my high horse using a Cowboy sewing machine after I already bought it. The Juki that would sew what you are wanting with vegtan that thick I believe they start at 3500, I went with a 1541s and I'm super happy with my purchase. I ended up spending 200 bucks on feet after 1200 for the new machine. If you can, don't go new, try and find a resale but also have somebody check it out if you don't know how it is supposed to operate. Worth the 50 bucks and lugging it down to a local shop IMO.
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May 29, 2014 22:39
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I agree with Bitter Beard; you're looking at a major investment to sew that stuff. I spent about 2 grand on my Cowboy, new. It can handle 3/8th inch, so you'd need the next step up. It could do that, IF you are already good at sewing. Keeping all those lines even and straight isn't easy. Leather can be bought in many places. Tandy, Springfield, etc. Just look for veg tan. 1/2 thick is probably two layers of heavy duty leather, like 10 oz.
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May 29, 2014 22:56
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I cleaned the leather strap with some Kiwi brand saddle soap. It is still wet now so I will see how it looks when it dries. The leather is slightly dry rotted but not bad. It is still very flexible but the outer layer is cracked but not too deep. Will multiple applications of saddle soap fix this? Is there anything else I should buy to put on it? I know that I can't reverse the damage that is already done, but it would be cool if I can rejuvenate the leather that isn't damaged to prevent it from getting worse. Google says a lot of different things, but I want first hand advice from the people who work with leather every day. All I know is metal.
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May 30, 2014 02:28
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iForge posted:I cleaned the leather strap with some Kiwi brand saddle soap. It is still wet now so I will see how it looks when it dries. The leather is slightly dry rotted but not bad. It is still very flexible but the outer layer is cracked but not too deep. Will multiple applications of saddle soap fix this? Is there anything else I should buy to put on it? I know that I can't reverse the damage that is already done, but it would be cool if I can rejuvenate the leather that isn't damaged to prevent it from getting worse. Google says a lot of different things, but I want first hand advice from the people who work with leather every day. All I know is metal. I haven't messed with anything that's damaged as badly as you describe, but my next step would involve a conditioner of some sort. I make my own out of various oils and so forth; you could use olive oil if you have some. Very light coats, let them penetrate and soak in, then repeat. As in, one coat a day. After two or three days, it should be in good shape. You're right that you can't fix what's already damaged, but you can keep it from getting worse.
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May 30, 2014 06:06
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I made a pony. My first leatherwork area can also be seen  Still need to source some granite.
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Jun 1, 2014 06:50
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Google Butt posted:I made a pony. Nice work. As far as granite goes, just find a local landscaping supply. I got a paving stone for $13.
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Jun 1, 2014 14:04
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Pagan posted:Nice work. As far as granite goes, just find a local landscaping supply. I got a paving stone for $13. Do you have a photo or the dimensions of your stone by chance?
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Jun 1, 2014 17:01
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Google Butt posted:Do you have a photo or the dimensions of your stone by chance? It's 12" x 12" or so, flat but not polished on one side.
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Jun 1, 2014 19:19
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I got a similar piece free as scrap from a place selling granite countertops.
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Jun 1, 2014 20:25
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BatteredFeltFedora posted:I got a similar piece free as scrap from a place selling granite countertops. Yeah I was gonna call around to some countertop places first.
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Jun 1, 2014 21:15
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I'm about to order some Tan Kote, wondering what you guys use for top finishes?
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Jun 2, 2014 05:03
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Google Butt posted:I'm about to order some Tan Kote, wondering what you guys use for top finishes? Atom Wax Google Butt posted:Yeah I was gonna call around to some countertop places first. Supposedly headstone places will sell chipped pieces quite cheaply. I suggest searching goodwill shops until you find a side table with a marble top - that's where mine's from. 16" x 20", half-inch thick.
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Jun 2, 2014 05:27
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TheNothingNew posted:Atom Wax Thanks. What's the difference in finish between the Resolene and Atom wax? edit: Sounds like Atom wax looks and feels more natural, while the Resolene provides better water resistance. It's for a belt, so I think I'll try that Atom wax. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Jun 2, 2014 |
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Jun 2, 2014 05:30
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Google Butt posted:Thanks. What's the difference in finish between the Resolene and Atom wax? Not 100%, but I'm told Resolene smells. Atom wax smells like nothing much. Ah, found the video. Guy's slow but it's a nice review of the various finishes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyTg_hfpNUM
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Jun 2, 2014 05:39
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TheNothingNew posted:Not 100%, but I'm told Resolene smells. Atom wax smells like nothing much. I've actually watched almost everyone of this guys videos, he owns.
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Jun 2, 2014 06:07
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TheNothingNew posted:Not 100%, but I'm told Resolene smells. Atom wax smells like nothing much. Should you put some sort of finish on a wallet? I never even thought about that.
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Jun 2, 2014 07:44
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Bitter Beard posted:Should you put some sort of finish on a wallet? I never even thought about that. If it gets dry, though, put some oil on it. Wait, aren't you using chrome-tanned leather? That doesn't need a finish, so far as I know.
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Jun 3, 2014 05:20
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I think that you should always put at least a bit of a finish on a veg-tan wallet. I never dye my stuff, and I used to not put a finish on it so that it would age and break-in over time, but I eventually found that a good wax or resin-based finish makes a ton of difference. Without a finish, I would often end up with a wallet that seemed less 'aged' and more 'filthy,' whereas with a finish, it would end up with a much more even patina. I also found that unfinished veg-tan tends to age to a kind of muddy brown, while a finished one will age to a nicer, more yellow or reddish tone, depending on which finish was used. But, yeah, that's just for veg-tan, I don't think you need a finish for any other kind of leather.
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Jun 4, 2014 00:34
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Google Butt posted:I made a pony. This inspired me to finish the stitching pony I've had half-done for a few months now.   Astute observers will notice that I am a terrible woodworker. I hope I can learn to be a better leatherworker than that with some practice. I varnished the hell out of it because I am afeared of splinters in my thighs.
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Jun 4, 2014 03:43
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Looks good to me! I'm thinking about ordering a basket weave from pro leather carvers, which size should I get our 1.5" belts?
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Jun 4, 2014 04:10
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handle for a bag. Perlinger noblessa calf in black.     nylon core, hand punched, hand stitched. 1 down and 1 to go. these are for a record bag prototype I'm making. to be continued I guess.
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Jun 10, 2014 13:11
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a wallet is almost done.
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Jun 30, 2014 11:47
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I'm super happy I found this thread. I really want to get into working with leather, all the stuff everyone makes looks so cool. I know this was addressed earlier, but I want to start getting into this, and I don't know what tools I should get. I know I'm a little late to the party. I can get a few things from the OP and I saw some suggestions for other people, but I'm not sure exactly what I'll be wanting to do really so I'd like to dabble a bit in everything (making stuff, dying, polishing, etc.). What sort of tools would I need? The closest Tandy's to me is 300 miles away, but I live in a smaller town with a few saddle shops and used tool stores that I'd like to look into to test the waters with before I spend the real money on quality tools, on top of that my father said he dabbled in it a bit when he was younger so he might have some tools laying around somewhere. Secondly, besides Tandy, is there any other place to buy cheap scrap leather online? I just want stuff to mess around with until I'm comfortable. As I said we have a few saddle shops around town so I might be able to find some scraps from there, but other than that is there anything I can do to get practice scraps relatively cheap? On a side note involving this my family owns a large amount of cattle, and tend to send a good amount to the slaughter house so we can eat meat that we know where it's been. I'm sure they'd let me take the hide as well. So how would I go about tanning that? I didn't see any sort of thread on that here in DIY. Some of the cattle are Angus, and some are Angus/Corriente mix, with one cow being a full breed Corriente if any of that has anything to do with anything.
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Jul 11, 2014 09:01
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Zite Rhums posted:I'm super happy I found this thread. I really want to get into working with leather, all the stuff everyone makes looks so cool. I know this was addressed earlier, but I want to start getting into this, and I don't know what tools I should get. I know I'm a little late to the party. I can get a few things from the OP and I saw some suggestions for other people, but I'm not sure exactly what I'll be wanting to do really so I'd like to dabble a bit in everything (making stuff, dying, polishing, etc.). What sort of tools would I need? The closest Tandy's to me is 300 miles away, but I live in a smaller town with a few saddle shops and used tool stores that I'd like to look into to test the waters with before I spend the real money on quality tools, on top of that my father said he dabbled in it a bit when he was younger so he might have some tools laying around somewhere. You can order lots of stuff online. Springfield leather is a good competitor to Tandy. The tools you will need depend on what you're doing, but it sounds like you need things to cut, punch, and sew. Dying and polishing just needs dyes and polish, and you can make your own polish. Do NOT attempt to tan a cow hide. That was what I thought when I was about 16; I went out and bought a fresh slaughtered cow hide and brought it home. It was a disaster. I ended up with a 50lb chunk of rancid, rotting flesh the size of a living room rug. It smelled ungodly, and the stench clung to your hands for days (neither bleach nor gasoline would eliminate it). I went to pull it out of the tanning solution and it just disintegrated, meaty stinking goo that oozed apart like the lipo-suction bags in Fight Club. We tried to bury the hide, our dogs dug it up and got sick. Then we made a bonfire and tried to burn it; it stunk to high heaven, put out the bonfire, and the dogs still ate it and got sick. I finally managed, after much gagging and retching, to get it into a couple big trashbags, and I drove them into town, to a shopping center and put them in dumpsters. It was horrific. I cannot over emphasize how bad an idea it was. IF you want to tan your own hides, start small. I should have killed a squirrel or a rabbit, of which there are plenty in rural Texas where I grew up. Start small, and if you decide you enjoy that part, then get bigger.
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Jul 11, 2014 13:58
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That story is disgusting but kind of funny in a comedy of errors kind of way. I'm sorry  But I laughed!Another place you can check for leather supply and tools and stuff is a shoe repair supply store. I live in Chicago and for some reason there are no leatherworking supply stores in the city. There is a Tandy store in the suburbs but gently caress that. So I just checked out a shoe repair supply store recently and they had thread and leather and everything. A very interesting place to just find weird random stuff that you can use, if you're in to that "stumble upon stuff that might inspire you" method.
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Jul 11, 2014 15:32
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cloudy posted:That story is disgusting but kind of funny in a comedy of errors kind of way. I'm sorry I think it's a great story... now. In retrospect. It's a hilarious example of what not to do. But at the time, it was quite unpleasant.
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Jul 11, 2014 16:02
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Zite Rhums posted:I'm super happy I found this thread. I really want to get into working with leather, all the stuff everyone makes looks so cool. I know this was addressed earlier, but I want to start getting into this, and I don't know what tools I should get. I know I'm a little late to the party. I can get a few things from the OP and I saw some suggestions for other people, but I'm not sure exactly what I'll be wanting to do really so I'd like to dabble a bit in everything (making stuff, dying, polishing, etc.). What sort of tools would I need? The closest Tandy's to me is 300 miles away, but I live in a smaller town with a few saddle shops and used tool stores that I'd like to look into to test the waters with before I spend the real money on quality tools, on top of that my father said he dabbled in it a bit when he was younger so he might have some tools laying around somewhere. You have to know what oz(weight) of leather you need and know roughly how much you're going to need but I buy from ortuleather.com and I have bought two of their bulk packages and quite a few one off hides and I've ordered two of their scrap packages and so far, all of it has been top notch. But I have a basic idea of what I need and what to expect when I've called or made orders online from these guys. Tandy is nice because you can walk in and select exactly what you need first hand and get the exact piece you are looking for and you pay for that privilege reflected in their prices. Sucks you are 300 miles away and that isn't a viable option. Pagan's story sounds like a total nightmare and I personally have never had the desire to try and tan my own leather, I'd rather work on my skill finishing something already done professionally or up-cycling leather from a couch or a chair somebody is throwing away. You'd be surprised the leather people trash because one piece is ripped and on a non facing, non sun catching piece of furniture the sq feet of perfect leather you can extract that has faced a wall for ten years. Some proper worked in chemicals, 60mins in the dryer on high to hit 122 F to kill bed bugs just in case, and you've got a brand new top quality piece you can do whatever you want with.
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Jul 11, 2014 17:00
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There's a fabric warehouse in my area (called SR Harris) which is a warehouse sized fabric discounter (everything is 50% off retail price). They also have huge chunks of leather. I have no idea if they're any good, but if you've got a similar business in your area take a look maybe?
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Jul 11, 2014 17:15
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Pagan posted:IF you want to tan your own hides, start small. I should have killed a squirrel or a rabbit, of which there are plenty in rural Texas where I grew up. Start small, and if you decide you enjoy that part, then get bigger. I just asked a friend about getting animals seeing as his family sees shooting guns as a bonding experience and he knows someone that tans rabbit, squirrel, coyotes, and whatever other small animal he can get. I'm going to go talk with him when he gets back into town. Tanning is just a sort of thing I thought might save a little bit of money seeing as I'm slaughtering the cattle anyway. I'll ask the butcher if he sends off the hide from the cows to be tanned, and/or I'd be able to request it myself. Why waste perfectly good hide if the cow is going to end up meat anyway? That story was great by the way, if you hadn't of posted that I might have accidentally followed in your footsteps. Living in rural Idaho sucks so much, but it can have some good perks with all the small businesses. Though, other than the size, I don't understand how a town that practically centers it's income off farmers and ranchers wouldn't have any sort of leather shop.
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Jul 11, 2014 18:33
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