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Fellow leatherworker here, been doing stuff for about 2 years now. 98% of the time I do "european style fine leatherworking", which is a very different from what I see here. I also work with chrome tanned leather. Love the wallets cloudy, very clean!
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Jan 24, 2014 12:57
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Pagan posted:Share some of your work, I'd like to see it. not a lot to share yet, got some major updates on my tools last fall and still trying to perfect the process. Im currently waiting for supplies to make the end product even better, BUT....    here's a card wallet. the other side is 4 card slots, all hand made. this is my daily wallet. I have about... 5 of these, different kinds, made for practice. don't have a lot of pictures, but I'll take some the next time!
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Jan 30, 2014 13:58
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Pagan posted:Nice wallet. That's first on my list of projects once my sewing machine arrives. hand stitched... saddle stitch is stronger than machine stitch, machine stitch can unwind if the thread is broken AND hand stitched items can be repaired. downside, hand stitched is much harder to do perfect where machine stitch looks always great. Emushka fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Feb 2, 2014 |
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Feb 2, 2014 09:04
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Pagan posted:Use a rotary cutter for straight lines, good scissors for curves. You can also find rulers that have a felt backing. A felt backed ruler is essential for leatherwork, as almost any leather will slide when you try to cut it. Edge burnishing in the sense as traditional vegetable tanned leather - correct. cannot be done like that. traditional european leatherworking methods works though, but that's different kind of leatherworking. 1:22 onward has a glimpse of this. basically it's special paint mixed with a wax component that is melted into the edge in multiple layers to seal the edge. finished with beeswax/buffing and other finishes depending on preference. fashion house hermes is known for this technique, but most of the european fashion houses use this too. if you look at my pictures above, the wallet is chrome tanned leather only in multiple layers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAfSfnykXfo
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Mar 26, 2014 13:46
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maybe you're overthinking and overdesignin this? there isn't much "leatherworking" in a classical sense in the collar anymore. maybe the sewing/needlework community could be a better help?
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Mar 29, 2014 11:42
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Sir Cornelius posted:Store it by hanging it. Let it breathe, and it'll be fine for a decade or so. and do not store in super dry, a little humidity so that the leather doesn't dry out.
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Mar 31, 2014 10:48
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handle for a bag. Perlinger noblessa calf in black.     nylon core, hand punched, hand stitched. 1 down and 1 to go. these are for a record bag prototype I'm making. to be continued I guess.
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Jun 10, 2014 13:11
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a wallet is almost done.
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Jun 30, 2014 11:47
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rawrr posted:Do you know where I can read up more about the style of leatherworking you're talking about? That's something I'm more interested in, and everything I can find in terms of websites, books, and tools seem to all be geared more towards the thicker American style stuff which doesn't appeal to me aesthetically. there is one book that I found that has good info in it. It's written in french. I don't really get any kicks from knife sheats and or holsters... You can ask me if you have questions. I'll try to answer. the internet and or forums do not have a lot of info. most of the artisans who practice this kind of leatherworking, have been trained by hermes and or one of the partner colleges. or their teachers have been trained by someone who has. techniques come from the old european style saddle making.  here's some stuff I've made lately:     
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Sep 1, 2014 12:13
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rawrr posted:Those look awesome! ok, keep in mind that I am from europe and 90% times i use chrome tanned leather. - I buy leather straight from the tanneries (tanneries like Perlinger, Annonay etc) or through an agent (Feinleder Hoffman, A.A.Crack & Sons) or from a local shop. Most of the smaller animals, goat/sheep hides are thinner if that's what you're asking. Hoffman prob has hundreds of colour tones that they either stock or can produce on order. I don't split the leathers. haven't seen the reason to do so or even know how to do that - no need. - I skive them with a blade if needed. Sometimes with multiple pockets/layers the edges need skiving so it doesn't get too thick. That machine is on my wish list and would be awesome to have. here's one method with a blade: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0t3mnLPslEM - The awl makes the hole uniform from front to back. pricking irons are usually shaped like a wedge. front hole might get huge while the backside is just a small mark... Also, it's not just for making the hole, but helping to get the needle through. make the holes today and tomorrow they might be "closed up already". don't know how to explain this. Sometimes I use it while stitching, but not always. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLShwqRbNzs bare in mind that a "true saddle stitch" is angled. if you're pricking iron teeth are not, use the awl. better yet, get the best iron you can possibly get with money.  - 1. first sanding with sand paper to get them nice and straight -> edge paint, let that dry for a moment -> heating with edge tool/mark the edge. 2. finer sanding again to smooth it out again, more edge paint -> heating tool. step 2 might be from just 2 to 6 rounds sometimes. 3. beeswax and buffing with leather and or heating tool, really fine sanding and finally paraffin + a buff. a few points, the edge paint is a special paint that includes wax. don't try it with acrylic paint or something like that, doesn't work. This method works with chrome and veg tanned leather. other methods don't really work with chrome tanned. to me this is the superior method and I've tried most of them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw43Isosh_s edge work in action but on a simple scale. This technique has more control on the quality of the edge and it produces constantly the same excellent result. - glue is an interesting thing. I do not use glue as a permanent bond and I think it's poor technique to do so. Some people use glue a LOT = watch straps with no stitching or things like that. few years and you can say goodbye to that strap... I use glue to attach linings and stuff like that for sewing, but never to hold a pocket in a wallet or something like that. the stitching keeps the pieces together and the edgework seals the edges. that being said, I think I use just your normal off the shelf leather glue/contact cement. I've tried to get my hands on milk glue because I think it's more friendly, but I still have the contact cement so... I also use these clips to hold pieces together so I might get away without any glue but I don't stress it.
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Sep 2, 2014 11:38
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Geop posted:Yeah, I use contact glue if I don't want something budging while I am stitching or riveting. exactly, but not as a permanent bond. quote:
check duret paris for some serious belt inspiration! http://www.duret-paris.com/2.aspx
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Sep 3, 2014 10:41
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I see you're getting there... kind of. this type of leatherwork is not my cup of tea, BUT... I'd say use a scratch awl to mark a line for the stitching and then using a pricking iron + awl when stiching. comes out cleaner and the angle of the stiching is constant. fine leatherworking blog had something like this pictured if I remember correctly.
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Sep 10, 2014 13:28
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what is a stitching groove?
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Sep 11, 2014 13:25
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Why aren't you buying leather straight from the tannery? it's like drugs, the best quality comes from the source without the middlemen.
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Oct 3, 2014 12:56
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bought my first ever alligator skin. poo poo's expensive yo.
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Oct 8, 2014 12:56
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latest. watch strap. french veau swift in black. all hand made.
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Dec 15, 2014 15:19
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thanks! It's a edge paint produced by SAS Beraud from France. The product has the colour plus a wax component. You melt it with a heating tool.
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Dec 16, 2014 11:06
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WayneCampbell posted:Any experience with how it holds up long term? Geop posted:I'm curious, too. The wax component makes it look super slick (ho ho ho, burnishing pun)! surpisingly well actually. the heating too seals the edge and doesn't really peel off or anything. I've been using a proto wallet of mine & watch straps for about 2-3 years and there is no signs of it coming off. can't really burnish chrome tanned leather... then again, when that happens, it can easily be re-applied. part of the beauty is that everything can be repaired. the stitching and all. Emushka fucked around with this message at 13:11 on Dec 17, 2014 |
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Dec 17, 2014 13:08
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new stuff. 4 card wallet made from dark brown alligator. dark grey insides.  some christmas gifts. 3 card wallets. barenia leather. pink and pistachio green insides. 
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Dec 27, 2014 15:07
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Black ostrich watch strap, 20mm wide.
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Mar 9, 2015 15:30
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thanks! The pimples are "the point" of the ostrich skin. pretty smooth and soft besides those. Here's an example of the components from another strap:  becomes this:  it's a veg tanned sandwiched with other layers depending on what you want to achieve. depends on thickness you want, materials etc etc. the padding is also veg tanned leather. it's not really "padding, it's not spongy, but to make the dome/curve/shape to the strap. you would be surprised how many name brands use cardboard/plastic or something like that in their straps. I only use leather.
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Mar 10, 2015 15:15
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welcome! ask away if there is any questions... on the next episode, maybe a different tehnique.
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Mar 11, 2015 19:13
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So I had vacation = time off work. made a batch of wallets. all will go to etsy eventually when I get better pictures... Barenia calf, Saffiano in black and Chevre goat for the cool colors. French linen thread.      
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Apr 7, 2015 14:29
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Let's keep this thread alive! Alligator wallet:  Mousepad in Barenia & Veau Swift: 
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May 20, 2015 13:02
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10 Beers posted:Do any of you goons sell the wallets you make? yes!
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Jun 29, 2015 13:21
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no lining, just the flesh side? why no lining?
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Jun 29, 2015 13:23
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10 Beers posted:Do tell! https://www.artehelsinki.com you can also drop me a mail if there is something I can do, colours, leather types, styles etc. Emushka fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Jul 1, 2015 |
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Jul 1, 2015 07:14
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Tea Bone posted:Wallets are fairly simple. I follow the pattern from here: http://www.artofmanliness.com/2012/11/30/how-to-make-a-wallet/ Although I use a slightly heavier leather for the outside (~4oz) and pigskin for the card slots etc. sorry, but I beg to differ.
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Jul 6, 2015 13:41
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Tea Bone posted:Okay, on which part? Granted my wallets look nowhere near as professional as yours. Sorry, that was a little tongue in cheek comment. At least my attitude towards leatherworking is always strive to perfection on every single little detail, it can always be better and it's never easy doing so. Any interest in a little tutorial/picture slide show on something I could do?
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Jul 7, 2015 11:21
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or start things off with some basics of leatherworking? I'll do the wallet in the next few weeks!
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Jul 9, 2015 12:55
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Ok, i'm not sure how to post the whole thing here. A lot of photos! I made a photo "slideshow" to my blog site with pictures and text. http://www.artehelsinki.com/blog/2015/7/18/how-i-make-a-card-wallet You can ask questions here.
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Jul 18, 2015 11:49
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syntaxrigger posted:Absolutely amazing! wow, thanks. maybe a watch strap pictorial next?
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Jul 22, 2015 13:31
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Baron Fuzzlewhack posted:Seconding that Emushka's wallet pictorial was incredible! thanks! Like I said before, this is not easy and it will not be easy... if you look at the pictures of the wallet, some of the stitching still is crooked. after all these years, things happen and you learn. doing things is the best way to learn, so keep doing it! I think I've made about 50 of those same wallets so far and there is still things that gets messed up. The black perlinger is 1.5mm from memory and the chevre (lining and pockets) is 1mm thick. The skiving makes the edges uniform. I'll post up pictures next week for the same design with multiple pockets that is in the making at the moment. the edge thickness is the same. Wordicuffs posted:That is a beautiful wallet but my problem is I can't for the life of me find where to buy an electric edge crease tool in NA (Canada specifically). Korea has a lot of leather craftsmen and women. I've seen some of their tools like the electric creaser and don't know where they come from... Japan maybe? The quality of the results are top notch so look into one of those. I know a couple of french versions, one of them I have myself. the other one is just the tips, but can be attached to a normal soldering iron. Maybe 50 euros per tip. the tips that you see on ebay from china for a normal soldering iron _might_ work. Looking at the quality of the tools, i don't see how the tip could be on the correct heat with bulkiness as they are. I would not bet money on those. the point of the tool is the quality of the crease that it makes, heat spread in the tip plus the heat adjustment being the most important. different types of leather and different part of the process needs different temperatures. different type of edge paints work in different temperatures. different tips for different curves and corners. I would say that if you're serious, you get the french one. i've seem some versions of us makers, but i am a little sceptical looking at the quality of those. If your'e the real deal, an old school harcore leatherworker, a manual edge creaser plus an alcohol lamp will have the same results if you buy a quality one from vergex blanchard for example. I think I could manage with one of those, but would not be easy. that's how they did it back in the day. veg tanned leather is easier in that sense, since it burns up pretty quick if the creaser is too hot. a manual creaser plus an alcohol lamp would be fine. personally i am saving myself from headache, so i bought the electric one. same deal with a skiving machine. would make my life hell of a lot easier. some day. fineleatherworking.com sells the french one and other french tools in the US. the prices are what they are, but the tools are the best ones you can get. Emushka fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Jul 22, 2015 |
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Jul 22, 2015 18:44
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Wordicuffs posted:Nice, thanks for the info and the link to the website; I didn't know it existed and it looks like it has some nice stuff. welcome! You could try one of those lamp dimmers to control the heat of the electric creaser... it can bust up or just not work without a certain amount of juice. worth a try I guess. I actually use and have a combination of 3 different knives that I use for skiving... one you see in the pics, one with rounded profile and one knife type. all of them have their uses. remember to sharpen and polish the blades when you get them. WayneCampbell posted:Where can I grab one of those fileteuse tools? I've seen that thing on the blogs of like 4 different leather workers this week and it seems to make for fantastic edge work. I think fineleatherworking.com has some kind of tutorial when you buy one. besides that, no tutorials online. the heat setting and how to use it depends on the leather type of course, is there an angle etc etc. tons of youtube videos, books written in french... but in reality a lot of try and error. test pieces is a pretty good way to start every creasing phase like in the tutorial. You watch the tutorial again, there is a lot of techniques and such "written in between the lines" so to speak.there is always this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw43Isosh_s Emushka fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Jul 23, 2015 |
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Jul 23, 2015 07:25
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Some new stuff. Watch strap for a Rolex glidelock clasp.   2 straps for a Panerai watch.     and a wallet. again. 
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Sep 3, 2015 13:39
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FISHMANPET posted:So gonna try something really basic, a leather leash handle. I'm thinking of doing it in the same style as this, wrapping one end around the other and putting in a couple rivets around an O ring at the end: GO FOR IT!
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Sep 21, 2015 13:47
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look! i made a video! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lY4d0381AFA
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Nov 17, 2015 20:26
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cloudy posted:Very well done! Great video editing as well. What's the device you use at 4:23 (and once earlier in the video) called? thanks! The tool is called Fileteuse manuelle. All the tools are from france, so the names are french aswell.
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Nov 18, 2015 08:13
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