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Why do you want thicker uppers?
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Jul 16, 2016 01:32
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Trabant posted:
That looks like you need a decent amount of pressure to get it to take. Are you doing anything to protect the skin side of the leather while you're working the back?
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Apr 10, 2019 04:30
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Ah, right. My cutting surface is a plastic cutting board with a texture to it that I was worried about the face picking up. Skip that and go straight on the table is probably the way to go. Thanks.
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Apr 11, 2019 00:14
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Kudos on the color matching. I think the next one will be gorgeous. If I can make a suggestion: stick with the blue thread all the way through. It's jarring to have that sudden "natural" stitching line on the inside. ________ Ugh. Mentally stuck in that spot where I want to make something but keep coming up with reasons why anything I think of is dumb. So instead, you get something I made ~5 months ago.    Dowel bag roughly based off of a very simple 19th c. "carpet bag". Dowels running lengthwise give it structure without really holding any weight. Collapses pretty well vertically with nothing in it - in the photos it has my winter coat in to give it volume. For size comparison, those dowel rods are 3' long. I needed something to hold kali sticks, etc. and didn't want to buy a hockey bag or whatever. The *first* one I made of this was a smaller travel version, and I thought it needed reinforcement, so I lined the bottom with 7-oz leather and attached it to the handles via belt straps of the same. Surely very sturdy, but the weak point in this design is the stitching thread, not the leather; so I made an insanely heavy bag for very little benefit. Ah well, learning occurred. I also figured out how to make the handles by myself, and for anyone wondering: don't. Just follow Armitage's walkthrough: it's much easier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsPJhIocXzM
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Jun 22, 2019 19:11
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Trabant posted:^ Sweet bag! Also, enormous. If you hadn't mentioned the scale, I would've guessed it no longer than a foot or so. How much leather did it take? Hey, thanks. Forgotten where I put my templates now, but the sides are 3' long and the ends are 1.5' square, so rough math gets me 20+ sq. ft., so a decent-sized leather side. You see that gouge line on the inside of the dowel rod cover: that's not supposed to be there, but after I made the mistake I realized I didn't have enough left to cut a replacement, so duplicated it on the other side and now it's a design instead of a flaw. Good enough to fool the co-worker who took the photos, at least.
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Jun 23, 2019 06:35
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Hey, nice! (e: collar and dog, both) On breaking tines: make sure you are removing the pricking fork straight up/out from the leather. The leather will want to move with the fork, so you'll need to hold the leather down. Just fingertips is fine, some people use a block of wood or something. Failing to do this puts sideways pressure on the tines, causing them to bend and eventually just snap off. Admittedly, this does make for an excuse to replace them with something nicer than the basic Tandy line, but still.
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Jun 28, 2019 03:25
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Not sure what to call it, but I like the super simple strap holder thing what keeps the strap from backing out. Good design. Fancy holes on the belt loop are fun, too.
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Sep 3, 2019 00:12
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deoju posted:Anybody know what this thing is? It was in a box of leather working tools that belonged to my great-grandmother. The blade, if you can call it that, is an equilateral triangle. It's a scraping/deburring tool, not sure of the technical name. Bought one for the spouse, she uses it for cleaning up rough edges on plastic minis before painting. When I found it at the hardware store, it was next to linoleum tile tools. *shrug* Honestly not sure what you'd use one for in leatherworking.
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Nov 4, 2019 00:23
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Oh! That's really pretty.
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Nov 21, 2019 05:30
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Ah, that's some fine stitching. Did you wet-shape the top one or is it stretched from cards being stuffed in?
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Jan 24, 2020 03:16
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HolHorsejob posted:Anyone have a recommendation for buying hardware? (O-rings, buckles, snaps, etc.) I'm looking to make some suspenders, and I'm curious if someone has a supplier with decent quality that's reasonably cheap. I use buckleguy as well. In ~4 orders, they only messed up one thing (D-rings that were tagged as aged steel but were actually aged bronze). They needed proof of the issue (phone pic of the item), sent me the replacements right away and offered me 50% off the incorrect item rather than pay to ship it back, which I took them up on. No quality issues. Prices on hardware seem about as low as you can safely get before you start dealing with sketch websites chasing that extra 5 cents off per piece, you know? For tools, I bet you could go cheaper (I say, wondering if my GoodsJapan order will ever show). Also, hell yeah Roblo, that helmet looks nice.
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Apr 28, 2020 15:27
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TheNothingNew posted:
Not 100% leather related, but I need to amend this. I just got a very nice email from GoodsJapan. Apparently, Japan Post took it upon themselves to hold up anything leaving the country ... and then didn't tell anyone for two months. The order I placed with GoodsJapan at the end of March just got returned to them today, apparently. Anyway, nice apologetic email and a small coupon code that I can't use for the foreseeable future. Ah well.
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May 30, 2020 04:37
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Basic Poster posted:Good to know. I was thinking that weight because of Weaver leather YouTube guy said that was for holsters and such and below isnt moldable. Best guess for that bag is Pull Up leather, which Tandy calls Stoned Oil leather. This stuff: https://tandyleather.com/products/stoned-oil-sides?variant=31977106866307 It's chrome tanned leather that's had extra oil worked into it. Scratches like crazy but that's part of the charm, as you've noticed. It's also quite pleasant to work with provided you understand that it's going to get scratched up just in the making.
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Jul 4, 2020 07:10
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Yeah, having trouble maintaining any momentum or enthusiasm just now, but here's who have been helpful in the past: Armitage (I think recommended from earlier in this thread): https://www.youtube.com/c/NigelArmitage/featured Product reviews and advanced techniques Ian Atkinson/Leodis: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLkCG-505-1t0rYlgBTSnpQ From beginner to mid-range work Prince Armory: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmtnq4rV4X8ri1-4hq2fJlg Worthwhile if you're into fantasy armor, otherwise not.
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Sep 12, 2020 06:22
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Better'n my first run. Good on you.
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Sep 22, 2020 01:55
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theflyingexecutive posted:Is it cheating to use trauma shears on leather? I find myself really chewing up the cuts with a head knife (admittedly I have a super cheap one) or xacto and want to know if I'll be screwing myself further down the line Change the blade on your razor, or sharpen your head knife. Leather messes up your edge fast. I've never been happy with the results I've gotten from scissors, but if you're working with, say, really floppy chrome tan they may be the only real option.
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May 7, 2021 01:29
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iwentdoodie posted:
I'm upset by how pretty this is because it's absolutely going to shed metal flake paint everywhere as it ages/flexes. Psykoguy posted:I've been slowly getting into this, and will be doing more projects once I get a proper desk to build everything on. But here's my latest bag I have made as a gift. Looks like you wet formed the bag face. How'd that go, and what did you use as a mold? One of those things I need to get my head around. Bag looks good.
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May 9, 2021 16:18
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 08:56 |
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I've tried similar things, and getting your stitches in on mismatch-sized pieces without it slipping and without goofing the spacing on your stitches takes some doing. Good on ya.
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Dec 21, 2021 04:12
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