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The first thread I started went into the archives due to my work schedule getting even worse right after I posted my last update. I basically spent 5 days a week in NYC from then until the end of February... and finally walked off the job when they tried to sneakily sign me up for a weekend shift on top of the constant weekday absence from home. The original thread is here, if you have archives: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3446681 Since I left my job I have mostly been recuperating from total burnout by working on my jeeps and clearing up demolition waste and junk around the house in preparation for... more demolition and junk removal! I spent several days shoveling old shingles into the back of my pickup and driving them up the hill out of the back yard to the private road behind the house, then shoveling them into Bagsters. What's a Bagster you say? Well, it's a cross between a bag and a dumpster... fits 3 yards or 3300lbs of "whatever" (no hazmat, no asbestos, C&D waste is OK, etc) and is made out of extremely heavy poly tarp material. Buy the bag for 30 bucks, unfold it wherever you want as long as the crane truck can reach it, fill it with your junk, schedule pickup, pay $140, bag goes away. After getting quotes from multiple dumpster companies it became clear that it would be easier and cheaper to use Bagster than an actual dumpster, and I can work at my own pace instead of having a week to fill the dumpster, which would result in a frantic rush to put as much as possible in it. Anyways, enough advertising for Bagster (I swear I'm not affiliated with them, they're just awesome for the DIYer) - progress! EDIT: gently caress bagster, after the third pickup or so getting them to show up has been impossible, getting them to call ahead like they claim they will is worse, and they basically have wasted my time. Never using them again, getting a 15 yard rolloff dumpster in a month or so when I've got enough debris ready to fill it quickly. EDIT2: did not get a rolloff dumpster. Building inspector told me about Free Dump Day, which my town holds every 3 months and (until a month or two ago) accepted demolition debris. I took full advantage of this until C&D waste was no longer accepted and am now looking at dumpsters again; only 3 rooms worth of debris to dispose of still so a single 15 yard dumpster will likely suffice. I had the old shingles piled on the back porch to keep them from sinking into the dirt while I waited to figure out how to dispose of them. So I spent a while doing this:  Last load, the porch is usable again! Decking is in crummy shape, but I was going to tear it off in a while anyways...  Today I spent hauling the bagged mixed plaster and blown in rockwool from the second floor demolition up the hill:  Way easier to drag the bags across the floor upstairs, lower them out the window, then slide them down a sheet of plywood than it is to carry them down the stairs:  I should say here that those bags I'm using are straight up badass for demolition work. They're basically made out of poly tarp - they cost a lot (something like a dollar each) but are well worth it. I haven't burst one yet, and I've put 150-200lbs of poo poo in each one, dragged them across dirty splinter filled floors, then slid them 5' down a sheet of plywood straight into the bed of a truck. By the end of the week I hope to have at least one whole room demolished upstairs so I can start wiring it, put the new subfloor in, and then start drywalling it. The sooner I have one room done upstairs the sooner I can move up there and gut the first floor as well. kastein fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Nov 27, 2013 |
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Apr 12, 2012 05:05
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| # ? Apr 18, 2024 21:49 |
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I used to have an '89 Jeep Comanche until it drowned in an Alaskan River. Loved that truck.
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Apr 12, 2012 08:55
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Hey I remember that old thread, always wondered what happened to it. Let's keep this one alive 
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Apr 12, 2012 20:18
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Mine's a 91 that has been through hell and is still kicking. I wouldn't be anywhere near as far along in this project without it, it hauls all my plywood, mortar, drywall, framing timber, demo waste... you name it. There is some moldy plaster with my wrecking bar's name all over it upstairs (picture this dude with a big fuckoff wrecking bar in one hand  )edit: it would help if I had any replacement filters for my respirator on hand 
kastein fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Apr 13, 2012 |
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Apr 13, 2012 14:59
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I have come to kick rear end and tear down walls. And I'm all of walls      Soon as I shovel/bundle all that up and toss it out the window into the truck, I can start spraying mold killer and Zinsser everywhere, rip the subfloor up, put down new subflooring, put up new interior wall framing, do the electrical, insulate, then sheetrock the place. I'll be installing 1/2" PEX tubing on 8" centers for radiant heating. I looked into using Blue Ridge's pre-routed radiant layout panels for the turns but realized I can make my own with my router, a 5/8" round nose bit, and a 4" radius jig (easily made) for a fraction of the cost - $214 plus shipping for a 4x8 worth of premade vs a $20 router bit, $20 in random metal stock and hardware, a router I already have, and $25 per 4x8 of regular 3/4 ply. Since I'm doing at least 5 rooms and a hallway with radiant, I think I should definitely break even.
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Apr 13, 2012 20:38
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Well, yesterday and the day before I decided to do some more demolition. there was a wall here. I'll be rebuilding it, but it was attached at the ceiling OVER the plaster and lath, so it had to go. Starting to tear up the floorboards. They used old wide pine for the actual floor covering... if it wasn't in such horrible shape, partially rotten with mold under it and badly worn with paint over it, I'd probably try and save it. I'll be tearing up the subflooring boards too and replacing with 3/4" plywood held down with liquid nails and screws (to avoid squeaking.)  This is about where another wall and a doorway stood.  The third picture from the last post shows what used to be in these pics before I tore it down.  I'm pretty drat sore this morning, mostly because I took those walls down with a grand total of one tool, a 36" wrecking bar, used as a combination prybar, sledgehammer, and battering ram... and shoveled up around 600lbs of old plaster and insulation. Time to warm back up with another few hundred pounds and some more walls. Then I need to start taking down the chimney, which means finding my masons hammer, since I want to salvage as many bricks as possible to build a walkway and perhaps an outdoor campfire/grilling pit in the future.
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Apr 20, 2012 15:40
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You're a loving machine, dude. Loving the updates, It's amazing to see what one man with a hammer, a shovel, and a big fuckoff prybar can do.
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Apr 21, 2012 02:46
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My life changed when I got handed a 20lb 3 foot wrecking bar, I think I'm the 4th owner & intend to hand it down to my favorite grandchild when I'm too frail to swing it 
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Apr 21, 2012 07:25
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Well, as usual I have torn more things down. I even put some things up today though. a little impromptu modern art  Chimney's coming down (it's now torn down to about 2 feet below floor level, so when I start ripping out the kitchen walls downstairs I can reach the top and continue to tear it out)  I've been trying my best to not break the bricks, since I want to use them to build something else when I'm done. Not sure what yet, I have a few ideas.  Most of the wood from this pile has been defenestrated now... I'll be burning it over the course of the next few months. One of the ideas I have for the old chimney brick is building a fire pit in the yard.  Before, you would have been trying to look through two separate walls in this picture. Now only half a wall remains...  When I gutted the corner in the last picture, under the valley of the roof (this is the corner under that really horrible section of asphalt roofing from the last thread) I discovered some pretty badly rotted framing. I was hoping I'd be able to just pretend it wasn't a problem and cover it back up, but the more I thought about it, and the more I poked the rotted out wood, the more I realized I needed to replace it. It was holding the weight fine, but I feel like it'd be cheating to completely gut the house around it, rip the entire roof off above it, and yet not replace it. So I bought some rough sawn true-dimension 2x4s at the local lumber yard and started cutting:  I did have to use a bottle jack and a scrap piece of lumber to support the valley rafter while I removed everything from underneath it. I'm really glad I decided to repair this because the wood in there was so rotted out it came out as small chunks and piles of dust when I started digging into it with a screwdriver. And all fixed up:  That's where it stands now. I'm probably going to shovel up some more demolition waste today, haul the old bricks outside, and start ripping more floorboards up, since I just bought ten sheets of 3/4" plywood to put the new subflooring in. Also need to take out the two remaining radiators upstairs and remove the piping. Fortunately it's not insulated with asbestos past the basement, so I can simply use my monkey wrench to unscrew most of it. EDIT: looking at my own pictures, I realized I have three radiators up there! Score!
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Apr 27, 2012 22:25
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See if I started a project like this I would probably get as far as you did, then just set my computer up and chill for ten or fifteen years.
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Apr 28, 2012 04:54
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tworavens posted:See if I started a project like this I would probably get as far as you did, then just set my computer up and chill for ten or fifteen years. What do you think I'm doing right now?  I'm partway through ordering the supplies I need for the gooney hacker den part of this to become more of a reality. Partial parts list (the rest I can get at Home Depot or Tractor Supply pretty easily) - * 2x 10' length of 1.5" 1/8" angle iron (east/west travel rails) * 2x 12' length of 1.5" 1/8" angle iron (north/south travel rails) * 8x 4" dia 1.5" wide cast iron V-groove wheels, mcmaster 2310T51 * 8x ~8" length of 1/2" solid steel round stock (axles) * 8x 1/2" e-clips * assorted nuts, bolts, angle iron, 1/8" wall box tubing, etc * about 24' of flexible cable track large enough to contain 1x 12ga extension cord and 8x DVI cables * 1x 1991-1999 Jeep Cherokee front wheel bearing assembly (azimuth bearing) * 1x 1987-1994 Jeep Cherokee front right axle shaft & stub shaft assembly w/ ujoint (vertical support and elevation bearing) * 1x grade 8 1/2-20 nut & washer (elevation actuator support arm) * 3x ISO PC 10.9 M12x1.75 bolts, 70mm long (azimuth bearing mount bolts) * 8x VESA mounts  (I will probably just make these myself, since they're just 4 holes drilled in a piece of plate steel)The great part is that almost all of the Jeep parts (the expensive stuff) is stuff I have on hand already. Once I've got the brackets for mounting this contraption in place I need to tear up the floorboards completely, put down new subflooring, then run conduit for comms cabling, all electrical, put up the new interior wall framing, then insulate, drywall, and mud it.
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Apr 28, 2012 13:54
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Monoprice has pretty cheap VESA mounts. This is the one I've been using for the past year, seems to be pretty solid. My only gripe is the mounting holes on my TV are a bit higher than the VESA spec, so if you're standing in front of it you can see the top of the bracket peeking out (thanks Toshiba!). They have plenty of tilt/swivel options too, but I just wanted to get a cheap mount.
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Apr 30, 2012 17:11
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I'll check around for others on that site (I forgot completely about them... need to order a roll of cat6 for the house soon, thanks!) but what I need is the 100mm and 75mm square VESA mounts for computer monitors, not the big ones for TVs. SUPER simple to make, in fact last time I made them out of square steel electrical box covers since they were the perfect size.
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Apr 30, 2012 18:48
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Well, the chimney is completely torn down. About 1/3 of it (the part that went from the attic to the second floor) I've hauled outside. The pile of bricks sitting in the kitchen and the one in the basement both need to be hauled out still. All the mortar is so old and spongy (yay sand+lime mortar) that almost all the brick should be reusable. No pics because it is midnight and thus dark, I'll have to take some tomorrow.
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May 2, 2012 05:19
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Still no pics of recent progress, I've been slacking on taking any. Fellow goon Aceofsnett dropped by a while ago and helped me demolish another room upstairs though (thanks!), and I have shoveled much of the resulting debris into another pile. Also bought the plywood for the new subfloor in the first room I'll be finishing. Going to spend tomorrow cleaning up the yard a bit and shoveling as much of the remaining plaster/insulation as I can into bags to be dragged away, then vacuum up the dust so I can start tearing the floor up. Also, all the bricks from the chimney are outside now. It's a pretty big pile... Some pics of the horror of a chimney I found behind the kitchen wall when I tore it down:   That is a coffee can used as a chimney pipe, secured with haphazardly stacked bricks and gobs of... spackling paste. Not mortar. I am so glad I decided to tear this down too.
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May 10, 2012 06:27
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OP: out of curiosity, what kind of insulation was in those walls, if any?kastein posted:Bagster Just a fair warning to anyone else thinking to use a Bagster: If you're doing a one or two small room complete gut and renovate, Bagster is indeed cheaper than a dumpster. If you're doing a whole house gut, or at least more than 500 sq ft, get the dumpster. I initially thought two Bagsters would be enough to handle the debris from 8 rooms 1300 sq ft, based on the math from the back of the bag. One Bagster got filled to the brim immediately with the debris from one bedroom. Back they went to the store, and I rented the second biggest dumpster Waste Management had. You're right, though, Bagsters are a lot more convenient than a dumpster. I paid extra to have my dumpster for two weeks, spent every waking hour that wasn't at work frantically shoveling debris in it, and I still went over the "default" weight limit by 1.5 tons (another +$100). Altogether, it was under $500, but if I had stuck to using the Bagsters, it would have been a lot more.
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May 11, 2012 19:15
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Around here they don't seem to care how heavy it is as long as the crane can lift it, so when it's a full load of plaster and shingles, I definitely get my moneys worth. I am getting a dumpster soon for the remaining waste though, as they quoted me 350 bucks for a 15yd, with the long term daily fee waived and 2 tons limit (I'm sure I willl go way over that.) No insulation in the walls, except where it fell down from the attic, which is full of super moldy, dusty, bat/squirrel/raccoon waste laden rockwool. Fortunately only a little more of that to go, most of it is torn down and bagged up already. I just got back from home depot with 7 12' 2x8s and 16 8' 2x4s. Once I vacuum up the dust and remaining junk in the future office/lab, it's time to get out the saw and get to work...
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May 11, 2012 19:55
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More progress! This morning I shoveled up a lot of demolition debris and moved it into another room, as well as dragging all the remaining bagged debris to the room I can load it into the truck from. I'm halfway through installing a lift kit on a friend's YJ on my porch, so I can't really load it into the truck yet, but it's out of the way for now. Then I vacuumed up all the remaining dust and grime on the floor in the first room I'll be rebuilding. 5 sheets of subflooring down today... first step, tear up subflooring a 4x8 foot area at a time:  Random old gas line that used to go to a gas lamp on the kitchen ceiling, before the house had electricity. I already disconnected this spur of the gas lines in the basement when I redid the gas pipes, so I simply sawzalled this in half to get it out of my way.  A while later:   That's all for now... probably another update on Monday.
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May 12, 2012 05:40
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kastein posted:I've never seen crossbracing like this before, is it common? What issue does it solve?
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May 14, 2012 22:03
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Cakefool posted:I've never seen crossbracing like this before, is it common? What issue does it solve? Old floor = squeaky floor. Cross-braces = less squeaky floor. Then the cross-braces get loose over time and contribute to the squeaky floor problem...
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May 14, 2012 22:35
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Same as all cross bracing, it transfers load from one joist to the adjoining ones.
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May 14, 2012 23:31
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Generally it's done with either metal strapping or blocks of lumber these days, but that style of cross bracing was common back when this house was built. No pics again, because I stopped working on it at around 1AM, but I have one more sheet of plywood to install before I can start replacing the roof tie beams (which also serve as ceiling supports) one at a time, then put up the new wall framing. Already got the RO measurements for the prehung doors I'll be using at Home Depot so I can start framing the second I'm ready to. As soon as the wall framing is up I can do the electrical, comms, and radiant heat tubing, then put in insulation, vapor barrier, and drywall/flooring/trim. PS: for those considering a project like this, I strongly suggest getting a 28/29oz caulking gun. The little 10oz ones are only good for about one 4x8 worth of subflooring if you are running a decent bead of liquid nails on each joist. I ran the numbers tonight while buying more supplies and at least around here, a 12pack of 28oz tubes of liquid nails subflooring adhesive costs $50.change, so about 15c/oz, while the same amount of adhesive in 10oz tubes worked out to around 35c/oz. I knew I would save a lot of money buying in bulk but I wasn't expecting that kind of a difference. Each 28oz tube is good for around 3 sheets of subflooring, and each room in my house is approx. 8-10 sheets, so the 12pack should do 3.5 to 4.5 rooms. I had already done most of a room using 10oz tubes, leaving 4 rooms to go (the living room floor is not being touched as it's a beautiful solid oak floor that just needs a good refinishing), so hopefully that 50 bucks covers it. Rough estimate for subflooring plywood (3/4" CDX) I still need to buy is approx. 30-40 sheets, @ 25$/sheet that's around 900 dollars more on just subflooring plywood. Goddamn. Houses are expensive. I could probably get away without redoing the subflooring in the dining room, but there is no way I am gutting out an entire room and tearing up the flooring, then stopping and saying "I am going to save $250 when it is the perfect time to replace it properly and never hear a squeaky floor again". edit: note to self: call Home Depot and local lumber yards tomorrow and find out what kind of a discount I can get on a whole pallet of 3/4 CDX... since a pallet is about what I'll end up needing. kastein fucked around with this message at 08:03 on May 16, 2012 |
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May 16, 2012 07:56
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When you call Home Depot, have a quote from another lumber yard handy and ask to talk to the pro desk. They'll usually knock 10-20% off their estimate if it's higher or equal to the competitor's. They also do quantity discounts and if you're buying more stuff on one ticket, all the better. I have to say, I'm jealous of what you've accomplished so far. I want to buy and renovate a house so badly.
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May 16, 2012 09:57
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Thanks! Definitely will do that. I determined after some youtube surfing that I am going about this demolition project all wrong. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ln92EPDCHVA
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May 16, 2012 16:54
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kastein posted:Thanks! Definitely will do that. Well, that certainly would have shaved weeks off my demolition... According to the comments, he only got one hole in a tire. Not bad.
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May 16, 2012 18:22
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I think you could offset some of your costs on the new flooring by selling the old floorboards, even if you think they're rotten and worthless, reclaimed and recycled lumber is definitely becoming a popular trend. I would have pulled the floorboards up at least a little carefully, put them on craigslist for $300 or whatever and see if anyone bit.
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May 17, 2012 18:05
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Wasn't worth the time and effort... they were in fact moldy and rotten, also had lead paint all over them, and most of them are split and/or cut in haphazard ways from 100 years of previous owners cutting through the floor to get at gas lines, electrical, etc then slapping the boards back in and trying to nail them down. Would have taken me days to take them up without splitting them, especially with the old style nails that were used. It took me ~8 hours spread over two days to take them all up and replace them with 3/4" plywood subflooring. Most of them also have a very strong urine odor from the squirrel nests that were under them. EDIT: oh yeah... I'd have to deal with Craigslist "buyers" (scammers, flakes, and jokers is more like it, at least from my sale experiences on CL) for at least two weeks before they went away, too. After my last craigslist sale I've basically sworn off dealing with that kind of bullshit ever again, I'd rather set it on fire than go through that kind of hassle.
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May 17, 2012 22:42
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Fair enough
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May 18, 2012 02:20
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Well! I had to spend a while working on my jeeps instead of the house, so not much progress was made. Today, however, I tore down the remaining ceiling that was keeping me from continuing the second floor rebuild. Once the dust has settled a bit more, it's time to get out the laser level, framing nailer, and chop saw again  Hopefully by tonight I should have enough framing up to begin wiring and insulating the future gooney hacker den room. Once it's wired, insulated, sheetrocked, and floored I can hang a hammock up there and stop sleeping on a couch in my dining room.
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Jun 5, 2012 21:41
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All the framing for the first room is up and I wired about half the outlets for it and installed the second floor subpanel today. Need to go to home depot for 4 20A AFCI breakers, a big stack of commercial grade receptacles, and probably another roll of romex if I keep this up. Oh, a prehung door and some 50 or 60 amp service entrance cable, too, I forget if that is 4 or 6 gauge. Guess I'll look it up when I get downstairs. No pics again as it is dark. I keep doing that...
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Jun 7, 2012 06:09
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Pics! I cleaned up more demo debris and put up a closet wall frame today but haven't taken pics of that yet. But here's some progress: Weeks ago: The rest of a room worth of subflooring is down:   Walls are going back up:  Wall back up and subpanel for the second floor is in:  Bedroom/lab/office/gooney hacker den door RO is done:  Bedroom/lab/office/gooney hacker den closet wall is started:  (that's just the top plate and one end stud in place there, when it cools down a bit more I'm going to finish framing it in and maybe hit Home Depot to pick up the prehung door for that closet...) Free dump day is tomorrow. So I'm going to spend the whole morning trucking demolition debris up there about a ton at a time. My bumpstops are gonna hate me. I've also put in outlets along three walls of that room - two walls got an outlet every 3-4 feet, alternating between two 20 amp circuits, and one of the circuits also covers an outlet every 6 feet along the third wall. The fourth wall will be getting more 6 foot spaced outlets on that same circuit. I'm only doubling up along two walls because those are the walls my workbench and desk will be along, and I'll probably have plenty of power hungry equipment over there. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jun 29, 2012 |
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Jun 29, 2012 23:37
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Half the bagged demo debris I have is gone already and it's not even 11 yet (dump opened at 9.) I'm going to have some left afterwards but I can always wait for another free dump day in 3 months for that, or just get a dumpster. Now that I've parted out some more of the parts cars I was sitting on I have the space to actually have a dumpster delivered again. Can't wait till I have this place cleared out enough to truly begin construction. ... and my arms are gonna fall off by tomorrow. Those bags are loving heavy, the last load was 11 bags at nearly 200lbs each. It's a good thing the dump is only a mile away because I was riding the bumpstops the whole way.
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Jun 30, 2012 15:51
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kastein posted:... and my arms are gonna fall off by tomorrow. Big dinner and a lot of water will help you from being rubber-armed tomorrow. Great update, not get to work!
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Jun 30, 2012 15:57
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All the plaster's gone! Good thing, I brought the last load up 15min before they closed the gate. Thanks for the tip - definitely gonna be a big dinner tonight, I could eat a cow. Actually heading to a fellow goon's place for a bbq... Pretty sure that was AT LEAST 2-3 tons of plaster. A $1000 truck (well... $800 with $1700 of upgrades and maintenance...) is the best thing a new homeowner / fixer upper owner can buy, it would have cost me a few hundred in bagsters or dumpster fees to get rid of that much crap and it just cost me maybe 2 bucks in gas and a few gallons of sweat.
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Jun 30, 2012 18:09
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I hate to the "that guy" but.....why the sole plate in the doorway? And it doesn't look like there is any weight bearing on that giant double 2x header
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Jun 30, 2012 18:21
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You yanks can do so much cool stuff we're not allowed to down under... Technically plumbing has to be done by a licenced plumber, power HAS to be done by an electrician or your house insurance is void if it burns down...
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Jul 1, 2012 09:09
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dwoloz posted:I hate to the "that guy" but.....why the sole plate in the doorway? And it doesn't look like there is any weight bearing on that giant double 2x header I thought about the sole plate for quite a while, wasn't sure if it was right. After checking the flooring I will be using (3/4" click-lock floating wood of some sort) and the thickness of the radiant heating spacer panels (routed 3/4" ply) I realized that the flooring will end up parallel with the top of the sole plate anyways, which makes a standard thickness premilled threshold fit under the prehung door quite nicely. As for the header - I've always seen them do it that way, and I figured it wouldn't hurt. Definitely no worries about being "that guy" - in fact, thanks a lot. The more dumb stuff I do that you guys catch, the less will be left for the building inspector to catch!
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Jul 1, 2012 15:05
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Perhaps you want to reconsider your rake walls framing, it looks a little non-standard. Here's some relevant wisdom from Larry Haun in glorious VHS style: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSRbWbSsA5I&t=353s
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Jul 1, 2012 23:55
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If its non load bearing how the rake walls are set up are not quite as important. Still, put some noggins in god dammit, how else are you going to prevent twisting in the studs and accidentally plaster your good hammer into the wall.  
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Jul 3, 2012 01:26
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I am not sure if noggings/dwangs/firebreaks are required in my town but will definitely put them in. There aren't any in the old construction I'm tearing out but that's not saying much... All the walls in the second floor are completely non weight bearing. How do I know that? Because they put them up *after* they put up the lath & plaster for all the outer walls and ceilings, which made tearing everything out an awesome experience, I can tell you. If they hadn't done that I would have left all the original wall framing standing and simply reinsulated, wired, and drywalled it.
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Jul 3, 2012 03:01
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