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I've never done a track day with the run groups you describe. I generally see: Novice -- Instructor and limited passing Group 3 -- Point by passing, straights only Group 2 -- Point by passing everywhere except maybe select corner. Possibly open passing on straights. Group 1 -- Open passing (except maybe select corners) In California, I generally use NCRC. Not that new person friendly (instructors cost extra). Not a lot of weekend days. But cheap as balls (under $100 for buttonwillow). You may get 1 fewer session that others, but that isn't worth $100 to me. Speedventures is hideously overpriced In the midwest, MVP is very good for novices, but their passing rules might annoy the more experenced.
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# ¿ Jun 14, 2012 03:06 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 13:01 |
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Admirable Gusto posted:If anyone's considering a HPDE day, my advice is to please please point people by as often as you can. If you can see them in your mirrors, they are generally faster than you (even if they're down by 200hp). You are much better off following them for a bit and observing their line Also, remember that if they're on your rear end in every corner and look pissed, but you pull away from them in the straight because you have a corvette, let them pass, even if they're in a station wagon.
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# ¿ Jun 16, 2012 04:56 |
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ColdPie posted:Yes, great thread. I posted about my very first track day experience in a spec ford over here. My friend and I are now on the hunt for a decent E30 or Miata or something to use as a track car. We plan to split costs to keep it very affordable. I used these guys: http://www.findtheline.com/ Reasonably priced and the number of cars is very low. On Sunday you may be the only car on course and they very well may get rid of run groups because there's only 3 cars in the afternoon. Blackhawk Farms (WI/IL border on 90) is one of my favorite courses, but it is slow and probably higher risk than most other courses. (Trees, little run off) Another cheap option for a track car is a 1st gen Neon. No really. Though I guess good luck finding one that isn't all rust in the Midwest.
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2012 05:07 |
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Admirable Gusto posted:You know what they say about never meeting your heroes? It's like that with me and Laguna Seca, which I visited yesterday for the first time. Yes it's a famous track, yes corkscrew, yes it's impossible to get a weekend track day there, but the overwhelming impression that it left on me after a day of driving was boredom I had a complete different feeling re: Laguna Seca. Getting the corkscrew right (which I only managed a couple of times) just feels so cool.
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2012 20:28 |
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If you're not in a convertible, open face.
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2012 23:28 |
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DogDodger posted:Unless you ever want to drive in NJ, which has legislated the requirement for closed face helmets. That is stupid. Full face in a car with an enabled airbag can be dangerous, plus full faces get warmer inside.
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2012 05:20 |
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j3rkstore posted:Disregard this, get a full face with a visor. Screw that, I have a full face at the moment and regret every moment.
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2012 02:06 |
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eriddy posted:Why do you regret it? Reduced vision? I'd rather get a full face helmet that would double for motorcycling as well, but if there's a good reason to get an open face helmet I'd like to know what it is. Heavy. Bad ventilation. Don't have to gently caress with glasses. If you're in a street car without other gear (just OEM protection), a full face helmet isn't doing you any good.
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2012 04:59 |
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Pr0kjayhawk posted:I can't understand why anyone would want to use an open face helmet at any time. Around here you're required to run with the windows down, I'd imagine any HPDE is like that. We had one guy catch a small rock in his left eye, it was pretty nasty. Luckily he didn't lose vision but he was sporting an eye patch for a couple months. I've never had an issue with rocks or something even though i run visor up and windows down. With glasses, the fog is worse, plus you have to deal with putting glasses on on a closed face helmet, which sucks.
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2012 05:56 |
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If you have a dedicated track car, you probably should have a cage and all that jazz (even if you never race), but I would not want one for a street car. If you're not in a helmet, harness, etc, they will do more hard than good. It is unfortunate that you kind of have to choose. If I had more money and more time for track days, I'd get a real track car. Cheaper in the long run and safer.
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2012 06:52 |
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InitialDave posted:Note that the design parameters and certification are different for car and motorcycle helmets. Motorcycle helmets don't need to help you survive bouncing off a rollcage, for example. I don't know anything about US law, but I would be very surprised if wearing a non-motorcycle helmet on a bike were legal, and if wearing a non-car helmet at a track would be accepted. A few companies make SA2010 and DOT approved helmets. Note that DOT legality makes it legal, not safe.
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2012 18:09 |
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Yeticopter posted:On a different note, what's the best source for getting a quality racing helmet? I've been using my motorcycle crash helmet for years but I want to upgrade to something more legit with built-in communicators and such. My main fear of ordering one online is that it won't be sized right, and a bad fitting helmet will gently caress me up on the track worse than anything. I have an auto-X opportunity this weekend so I really need to figure this out soon. If you live in any really large metro area or near a track, there's a good chance there's actually a shop that sells higher end racing helmets. I think that is the best way to go if you're going to drop a lot of money.
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# ¿ Jun 20, 2012 04:05 |
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Blooot posted:Do you know specifically who? When I bought my last helmet (Bell M4), I was trying to find an SA helmet that was also DOT and came up with nothing and ended up with a Shoei RF1100. I did however call the Snell foundation get the FINAL word on the difference between Snell approved bike and car helmets so we can put that to rest: There's at least one of saferracer. I'm on my cell phone at the moment or I'd link. Honestly, I googled Sa2010 and DOT to find it.
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# ¿ Jun 20, 2012 22:55 |
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Aurune posted:That corner scares me. Reminds me of the wall placement at Sears Point you mean. Only CA track that scares me. Those walls are close as hell aventari posted:Ready for my $300 E30's first track weekend at Streets of Willow Springs, just added some DIY Home Depot brake ducts That said, if you're getting a street tired, stock power e30 brake to 1300 degrees in an HPDE, you're probably doing something wrong. My pads go to 1650lbs, but my car weights 1000lbs more and has twice the HP.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2012 06:06 |
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kimbo305 posted:I don't think we can ever get consensus on this. I want some buff mag to spend days testing and gathering data for all the pads that people talk up. On different classes of cars, against different tires, etc. I think once you go R-comps, the game changes, but for anything that isn't severely underbraked (or weighs 4000lbs), on street tires, there's a pad for it. You will, however, see increased rotor wear and possible cracking depending on the car though. That said, an e30 is light enough that I wouldn't worry that much on street tires. I use carbotech XP10s (claimed 1650F) on streets (generally RE-01Rs, now Z1s, though I'm not a fan) for my 3350lbs station wagon (lots more with my fatass) and the only time I've really faded them was during bed-in (which you're supposed to). Front pads and rotos basically last the same amount of time (which isn't long). Don't know about classing though.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2012 07:08 |
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:How do the V12s hold up? My Star Specs are about done for and I don't know if they have another weekend in them. Not really looking forward to buying new tires, so I'm hoping my street V12s can take a little abuse if need be. Side-walls that make the star spec (which have a soft sidewall) look like concrete. I didn't love them, but then my car is fairly heavy.
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2012 04:03 |
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aventari posted:Any SoCal peeps be interested in a track day this Sat or Sun at Autoclub Speedway? I know some people doing that, but I still have oil leaks to chase down.
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2012 08:52 |
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Admirable Gusto posted:Laguna Seca next Monday, who's in? NCRC is may favorite track day provider. So cheap. NCRC is not as newbie friendly as more expensive providers. I also am not in love with their passing rules as they progress. But not bad, attracts a great crowd (the NCRC Lseca event I went to had an F40.), and deals with douchebags quickly. NCRC is way cheaper than Speed Ventures. Speed ventures wants $150 for buttonwillow. NCRC is $99. $200 for the Roval is a joke, though I suspect that is more a function of the costs of the Roval than speed ventures. nm fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Jan 21, 2013 |
# ¿ Jan 21, 2013 06:07 |
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Keyser S0ze posted:
Doesn't really attract that crowd. However, you can chose a lower run group and get more restrictive passing rules (I do this). They basically sell everything out, so they have no problems kicking jackasses, which I think is an issue with some other providers.
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# ¿ Jan 22, 2013 07:28 |
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quote:Car needs to be smogged in March. I'd rather not have to take care of that myself, but I will if I have to. If you take it without having me smog it, I'd be willing to talk about the price more.
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# ¿ Feb 15, 2013 08:10 |
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Admirable Gusto posted:I do miss Auto Club now that I'm in the Bay Area. I'll drive to Willow Springs or Buttonwillow but Fontana's just a little too far. I miss Aaron's sense of humor
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# ¿ Feb 26, 2013 06:59 |
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Aw shucks. No better time to start tracking a worthless piece of crap then, I guess You can and probably should get track day insurance in any event unless you have a beater. It costs a bit, but worth not having to go to court over an insurance contract. Most insurance companies, even with somewhat ambiguous language in contracts, are going to fight tooth and nail against paying anything that happens near a racetrack.
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# ¿ Mar 12, 2013 06:55 |
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Octopus Magic posted:Chumpcars means you have to have a trailer, a tow vehicle, a trailer, and all those necessities that are required for having an actual racecar, to which I might say if you're going to that extreme, you might as well get an SCCA car/NASA/what have you. Not to mention all the safety equipment (cage, tires, wheels, brakes, seats, harness, etc) not included in the $500.
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# ¿ Mar 13, 2013 06:29 |
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aventari posted:Anyone interested in a track day on March 30th/31st at Buttonwillow? I've run them a few times. They're pretty good, except for for novices.
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2013 02:20 |
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kill me now posted:Have a track day cued up for the 12th and surprise surprise the weather forecast is calling for rain. This will be the 5th time I've been to this NJMP Thunderbolt and would be the 3rd time its rained while I was there. Rain just lowers the consumables costs.
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# ¿ Apr 5, 2013 06:05 |
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ColdPie posted:Anyone here used Carbotech brakes? I bought a set of XP-8s for using a couple times a year at HPDEs. The official FAQ says you need to purchase new rotors to properly bed in and use the brakes. I'm wondering if that's mostly CYA BS or if it's worth the . Reports on the Internet are conflicting, so I thought I'd turn to you trusty folks. I've only used them in conjunction with other carbotech brakes. I'd imagine that having other brake pad deposits on the rotor could impact the bed in process.
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# ¿ May 10, 2013 04:07 |
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G-Mach posted:That was kind of my point that I really didn't get across or explain very well. At my local autox I can get 8-10+ plus runs which helps. I can't imagine wasting a day only getting 3 autox runs in so I can see were doing a chumpcar race would be much better in terms of dollar/experience per hour ratio. If you are only able to get 3 runs in for autox I'd rather just do lapping days then. I actually think of all non-HPDE stuff, Ice did the most to make me a better track driver. Smooth means a whole different thing on ice.
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2013 07:12 |
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Sab669 posted:Have any goons been to Watkins Glen in New York? I'm moving to Buffalo soon, looks like that's the only track that isn't just a stupid loving oval. Never been there, but it is a legend. I've heard the surface is fairly rough.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2013 04:07 |
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grover posted:ZII and Rivals really like it cold. I wouldn't say they get greasy, but ZII clearly has the best sweet spot "warm" and grip drops off a few tenths when it gets hot- both ZII and Rival are considered to be pretty decent track tires, especially for time trials when you have time to let them cool between runs, but definitely more geared towards autocross. RS3 is more formulated for hot temps; they need some heat in them to work properly but generally hold up to the heat better. Is the RS3 the best current street tire for dealing with heat? Tracking a 3400 wagon in California is an interesting tire challenge. nm fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jan 12, 2014 |
# ¿ Jan 12, 2014 03:49 |
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Phone posted:AFAIK, the R-S3s are good, but the Rivals are better on a lighter car. My main complaints about the R-S3s is that they're pretty quiet and terrible under braking whereas the Rivals act more like an NT-01. I'm getting rivals for the Mazda when they come back into stock, but the Legacy needs tires ASAP. The last tire I think I was happy with on the legacy on teh track was the RE-01Rs. My current tires are worn out Starspecs which neither had the sidewall nor the heat tolerance I wanted.
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2014 04:48 |
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grover posted:For autocross, yes, but RS3 have weak sidewalls compared to the other top tires; heavy cars tend towards ZII or Rivals for autocross. I need sidewalls, but not greasy. How are the RE-11A sidewalls?
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2014 05:01 |
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Despite the soft side walls, I just bought some RS-3s. They were quite a bit cheaper than RE-11as. We'll see how that goes, I guess I can always add more air!
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# ¿ Jan 20, 2014 01:42 |
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Why is it that every speedventures event I hear of has a crash of some sort? I've only been to one event where a car got crashed -- a rain day at blackhawk farms. Is there something up with the clientele or is the roval just dangerous?
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# ¿ Feb 17, 2014 23:17 |
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Phone posted:I'll be sure to tell that to everybody else I see this year running Rivals, including myself.
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# ¿ Feb 19, 2014 07:05 |
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c355n4 posted:Higher boiling point. Superblues numbers are not all that impressive for a track fluid. The main benefit is easy bleeding.
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# ¿ Mar 3, 2014 04:40 |
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RCEs are KWs, though they may have slightly different valving and spring rates. I have RCEs (and have for 70k mi, with one recent free rebuild) and I'm quite happy. One good thing about new KW/RCEs is they come with free rebuilds for the orginal buyer. Also, you don't really need to remove them in the winter. KWs, excepting the 1s, are stainless. Grease the poo poo out of the moving parts before winter and go to town. I even did ice racing on mine.
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2014 01:17 |
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rotard posted:I'm guessing you haven't seen this years schedule... XP10s for street tires is probably good to 3500lbs or so. R-comps, I'd want more. They're good pads though.
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2014 04:12 |
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eriddy posted:What do you guys think about HPS pads? They seem like a good upgrade to the current OEM pads on my 2007 GTi and I can use them on the street as well as the few track days I do each year. Am I wrong for thinking this? Any recommendations for a single set of pads that are better than OEM but also not strictly for the track?
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# ¿ Apr 13, 2014 02:47 |
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Phone posted:Don't buy the HP+ for the track. Buy a set of HT-10s and just swap them out the night before. A brake pad change only takes like 20 minutes. Exactly. This is why I don't have a good answer to this as dedicated track pads are a much better idea. You're going to be bleeding your brakes before the track day (right?), so it isn't like you're not going to be doing something. What does a GTI weigh? Like 3300lbs? That isn't that light for a track car.
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# ¿ Apr 13, 2014 07:22 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 13:01 |
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SlapActionJackson posted:I would recommend the full-face versions. Yes, once you are caged and what not, it is a good idea, but as an entry level track day and autocross helmet, do open face. In a non-caged, airbag on, just using a seatbelt case, the helmet is just really for insurance anyhow. It isn't going to make a huge difference if you crash.
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2014 06:32 |