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I cut my numbers out of magnetic sheets from Michael's. Green painter's tape sticks better than blue. And if you don't have brakes, practice your no-brakes and offline drills. You'll be a million times better driver for doing them.
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Aug 11, 2015 01:16
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crazzy posted:After seeing a few wheel failures at the bmw cca club race/hpde this past weekend (2 different people had spokes on their track wheels just crack in half, 4 out of 5 spokes broke on 1 wheel at the same time, made it into the pits with just 1 spoke holding the whole thing together!) I'm taking wheels a heck of a lot more serious. The thing cracking and failing on track is one of the scariest things I can imagine. Were these stock wheels or aftermarket? The only wheel failure I've seen personally was on a Mustang, and I'm not sure it was stock. Mustang guys seem to have no qualms running super cheap GT500 and Cobra knockoffs that I am extremely leary of.
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Aug 28, 2015 01:38
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Pulling the seat is going to throw an airbag fault and it probably won't fire
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Jan 16, 2016 17:18
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I've been rebuilding mine whenever I burn through a set of pads.
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Mar 30, 2016 23:54
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I've had varying luck with making my own out of Pro Mag magnetic sheets. You can get white 12"x24" sheets from Michael's or Amazon. You can also buy adhesive-backed magnetic sheets and different colored vinyl sheets separately. My biggest success was using the adhesive and vinyl combo, cutting a wide radius at each corner, and applying them to a warm surface. Sometimes they last a long time, sometimes they don't. One day I'll try a thicker magnet.
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Sep 7, 2016 23:36
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Bertil Roos comes to VIR sometimes. Looks like it's not on the schedule this year though.
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Mar 23, 2018 00:23
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BlackMK4 posted:The small, local orgs will also likely have a couple of time trial and w2w classes, as well. The rules will be much looser than SCCA or NASA, and the track days will likely be shitshows. It depends. Some are good and some are bad. The best track days I've had were with a local club. The bonus is that you get a lot more seat time in HPDE when they are running no races and minimal time trials. Just make sure to keep your instructor evaluations (or get a NASA logbook for them to fill out) so you can transfer your experience to another organization easily.
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Apr 5, 2018 03:03
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My first HPDE was on stock pads, and my next several were on street pads (stuff like Hawk HPS and HP+). I always thought it was better to experience brake fade for the first time early on with an instructor beside you.
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Apr 22, 2019 23:25
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I've had good luck with EBC brakes in the past. Yellow was comparable to HP+ and Blue was a bit better braking performance but withstood substantially more heat. Dust was much better than Hawks.
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Oct 8, 2020 01:28
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 ARMCHAIR RACING Most amateur racing organizations have similar rules regarding passing: the car being overtaken can make 1 blocking maneuver before a turn, and the car being overtaken has to yield racing room to the overtaking car if the overtaking car is in a passing position (usually defined as a front wheel beside a door or front bumper beside a front wheel). Looking at turn 9: orange car puts a block on 88 or at least maintains his line. 88 yields because he does not have a right to racing room because he is not in passing position Turn 10: orange makes no blocking maneuver, 88 is in passing position, orange does not yield racing room I think orange caused the last wreck even despite 88 divebombing
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Feb 17, 2021 04:45
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I read the NASA rules and they have an example of this exact scenario.quote:Car B is attempting to pass Car A going into a left-hand corner. There is contact between the two cars at point 3. Car A has already turned in and is committed to the corner. Car B attempts a last-minute pass and ends up locking up all four wheels and sliding into the side of Car A. This is a collision resulting from poor judgment and overly aggressive driving on the part of the driver of Car B.
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Feb 18, 2021 01:55
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I used to drive a GTO. Never used G-LOC and was never really happy with the Hawk pads. I eventually settled on Carbotech. XP10/12 seemed roughly equivalent to DTC-60/-70 to me as far as braking force goes. What I liked about the Carbotechs was that there was good braking force even when dead cold. I could swap pads at my leisure before and after the track, not at the track. Pad wear was worse than Hawk and rotor wear was better. But practically the Hawks would chunk so bad that they'd carve grooves in the rotors, and then they'd destroy each other in quick order. With Carbotech, as long as the rotors weren't cracked, I'd just slap pads and send it.
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Jul 20, 2022 23:43
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Scionix posted:Thank you for all the responses! Unfortunately the hawks or g-locs are literally my only options, not a lot of aftermarket choices. Is the R10 R8 combo livable on the street? I was planning on having to swap pads, but if I didn’t have to that would be nice Carbotech will make anything you want. If they don't have it listed on their website, you can give them a call. At worst you'd need to provide them the backing plates. heffray posted:G-Loc has a lot in common with Carbotech: some family members split off to form the new company, and the products are more alike than either is to most other brands. I didn't realize that, but looking at the websites they're quite similar. I'd bet G-Loc would make pads specific for you too.
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Jul 21, 2022 16:40
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 16:54 |
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I don't know if its true anymore, but you used to be able to go to cruise around the paddock at an IMSA race and grab a whole bunch of used tires. Congrats to someone if they've managed to turn that into a business.
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Jun 29, 2023 02:21
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