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Video of RP968's 1:19.2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfWsd8annwg I was expecting a little more improvement over last year's 1:19.8 though. Although MCA wound up going a bit slower.
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Oct 21, 2019 17:01
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The 309 stoptechs are cheap and will definitely hold up to mountain road driving and be fine around town. I was on those for a long time and liked them. Just went to 308s because I didn't really need to spend the extra money. I notice a little less bite out of them. And I do know people who have gotten away with using those for the occasional track day but it wouldn't be my choice if I was doing it a lot. Also sorry about your miata blackmk4 jamal fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Oct 7, 2020 |
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Oct 7, 2020 20:27
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I've spent a lot of time working on other people's race cars and supporting them at tracks. I race bicycles.
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Nov 4, 2020 21:45
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Yeah frequently the inside of the tread is a harder compound while the outside shoulders are softer. Directional tread is mostly there for clearing water and in the dry it doesn't matter. I'd definitely consider some alignment/suspension setup changes on that one though.
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Jan 18, 2021 02:57
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Kinda surprised your right rear looks like that with so much camber, but I guess I would still consider more negative camber, only on the right side if that's where you're going to be driving, and also rotating your tires left to right occasionally. If the swaybars are adjustable and will go stiffer, I'd probably do that too. Also, the best way to figure out what is really going on with your alignment, suspension balance, and pressure is to measure tire temps with a probe. You'll go faster and tires will wear more evenly.
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Jan 18, 2021 20:29
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I try to avoid the laser ir deals, they tend to give you pretty inconsistent results since it's just measuring the surface of your tire which varies, and pretty quickly. For example, say you have a good amount of negative camber and aren't pushing around the corners in your cool down lap- the ir will tell you the insides of the tires are hotter, but that might not represent of what's actually happening on faster laps. So you wind up not actually getting anything very useful in helping you fine tune alignment or spring/bar rates.
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Jan 19, 2021 18:33
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I can see having a 2nd fuel pump for redundancy but don't get why it has four. Also wondering if the brakes feel soft because of all that flex hose. And very yikes with that cage. OMG the loving main hoop. jamal fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Feb 9, 2021 |
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Feb 9, 2021 04:33
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Big rule for main hoop is that it is one continuous piece from floor to floor with a nice big plate where it mounts to the floor. It should also be a little behind the driver and not next to their head. And have a diagonal brace (possibly 2) to keep it from just folding over. Just do that, plus the braces supporting it from behind, and you have a solid roll bar and good start to a cage. Also a reason you shouldn't have seat rails, because then the seat can move relative to the cage and harness mounts, and isn't as strong, but that I can get past and if you have, say, an endurance car with multiple drivers it's useful. There is some neat stuff on there, that cooling setup with the trans and oil coolers built into the radiator is pretty cool. And that oil cooler adapter is a super rare cool jdm part. Lot of not very well connected hoses and fittings throughout and a whole bunch of stock parts I didn't really expect but that could have been due to rules or taken off before sale, etc. The shocks seem neat but the spacer setup to make them fit the upright is a little questionable. And the car is slammed and has those huge ball joint extenders but looks like nothing on the tie rods. I guess if your suspension barely moves you don't need to worry about geometry. jamal fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Feb 9, 2021 20:55
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Yeah that looks nice. Perrin does pre-made kits for a few cars (mostly subarus) that are pretty good. Use a setrab core and then you get pre-made lines and brackets to just bolt it onto the rad support. When you consider making the hoses and fittings and then figuring out where and how to mount oil coolers the price of the pre-made kits compared to just a core and the parts isn't so bad. Mishimoto is definitely not high quality stuff but for the most part works ok. The focus oil cooler kit they make does seem to have a nice shroud deal that direct some air in/out of it. Actually directing air into and then out of your coolers greatly increases their effectiveness. And, if you say, have the vents going out the hood you'll usually decrease front end lift as well, since that air that would normally be coming into the front and then out the wheel wheels and bottom of the car is now getting directed up. So anyway yeah an oil cooler is good but some speed holes and sheet metal work is cheap and effective.
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Jan 4, 2022 20:22
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I DD on -2.5 and it's generally been fine for tire wear, so, yeah, ask for as far as it will go. Toe, generally, yeah, zeroish. One thing I pretty much have never seen mentioned in online alignment chats is camber thrust. A cambered tire will want to push in that direction, so it seems like with bigger negative camber numbers you'd want some toe out to counteract that a bit. I've read up to like 0.1 degree per degree of camber. But I've never actually tried it in practice. I do have some suspension work planned to my car including a tie rod and new top mounts so maybe I'll try a touch of toe out. And I need some new summer tires.
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Apr 26, 2022 06:39
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How about more front camber, maybe stiffer rear springs. Do you have stiffer bushings in the front LCAs?
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May 7, 2022 05:53
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8/6 is far from ideal spring rates, yes due to motion ratio. The rear suspension has much more leverage over the springs and you would actually want something more like 8-10k back there. If the rear motion ratio is 0.75:1 (I don't know the actual number but I'm sure it's on legacygt.com somewhere and could be higher) that gives you a rear wheel rate of like 3.5k. Because wheel rate is spring rate x motion ratio squared. Pretty common for coilover companies to just spec 8/6 for literally everything without paying any attention to suspension geo. For cars with struts all around that usually works fine but then you get something like subaru rear multilink and uh, not so much.
jamal fucked around with this message at 03:54 on May 8, 2022 |
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May 8, 2022 00:41
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Cool that should help a lot. Also consider more front camber. You could stick a standard m14 bolt in the upper front holes, like the same part as the lower bolt, and that would get you some more adjustment there. Assuming you have the tire clearance, adjusting with the bolts as far as you can go and then adding whatever you need with top hats is marginally better from a geo standpoint because you're not increasing steering axis inclination as much.
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May 10, 2022 16:42
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i own every Bionicle posted:Can anybody tell me how much difference switching from a standard 50/50 glycol water mix to something like VP Stay Frosty (or distilled water and water wetter) make? My track days don’t require non-glycol coolant but I’m looking for better cooling and this is a very easy thing to try. Trying to decide if it is worth it. I would say that kind of stuff does help, water can absorb more heat than ethylene glycol. However I'm not sure the rate of transfer is much different, maybe slower? Thermodynamics was a long time ago. So yeah if your temps are getting too high improving heat transfer from the radiator to the air is the main way to improve that. Generally a bigger radiator doesn't specifically do this, but a bigger radiator and more water means that it takes longer for the car to start to overheat. So the way to actually speed up the transfer of the heat to the air is mainly with improving airflow through the radiator. A little ducting or a shroud going into it can help but what I consider more important is giving the air somewhere to go after it hits the radiator, and if that somewhere can be up and out of the hood you're usually getting an aero benefit as well. A turbo subaru, especially one with a top mount, is kind of in a bad place to start with because that engine bay is just getting packed with air going to the coolers and then it all has to go under the car and into the wheel wells and stuff. In conclusion, I recommend adding speed holes to your hood. But also more water is good too.
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Jul 5, 2022 02:18
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I think with foil tape and other heat shielding it's important to consider what way the heat is going. An intercooler is hotter than the engine bay when the car is moving, so covering it with foil/insulation probably means it gets and stays hotter if anything. Same with charge pipes and the like - the air in there is both going very fast and not getting much chance of heat transfer to the pipes and is also probably hotter than the engine bay so if anything you'd want to put little heat sinks on your ic pipes or something not a bunch of gold tape. Excessive boost is probably caused by the wastegate just not being able to flow enough. Hotter conditions should actually improve that since the charge air won't be as dense. But it's kind of common with internally gated turbos. Not a good way to fix that without like, taking out the turbo and porting the wastegate or going to an external gate (and the re-tuning that would need to go along with it). As long as it's not leaning out or hitting boost cut maybe it's fine? jamal fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Jul 5, 2022 |
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Jul 5, 2022 16:05
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 21:42 |
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Might be able to get different brackets and run smaller rotors with the same calipers. Although at some point I suppose the shape of the inside of the caliper and piston sizes aren't going to be ideal. I'm not sure how many different calipers stoptech uses across different rotor sizes given the same number of pistons.
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Mar 14, 2023 21:16
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