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Dave Inc. posted:Probably not a halo, I think that would drive me crazy. I'm thinking about getting a HANS, though, so do I need a halo for that? Nope, but consider getting 2" belts so it rides on the HANS properly. I'm wholly impressed with my Schroth Profi belts.
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Apr 6, 2013 18:36
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My Miata is a total loss vehicle.. what's the question exactly?
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Apr 7, 2013 03:25
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I've been in a bunch of cars with G-Force belts, and the Schroth has been a nice upgrade. Whenever I put in a full cage, I'll reevaluate my safety equipment (belts and seat). Thanks for the suggestion!
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Apr 8, 2013 15:20
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G-Mach posted:Or this happens.* This was a design flaw in the rollbar. It just bolted through the floor pan and didn't have any sort of connection to the chassis. Funny enough, the 2 people survived that because the rollbar punching through the floor pan pulled the driver and passenger back so that the roof didn't collapse on them. The competitor for Mustang rollbars immediately posted up pictures as to how their bar was mounted. Quite literally the best PR they've ever had.
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Apr 8, 2013 23:19
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If you like topless white ladies, I hear Takata belts are the way to go. Dave Inc. posted:Can someone explain submarining to me, and the difference between a 5pt and a 6pt? One hurts your balls. The other really hurts your balls.
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Apr 9, 2013 16:02
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I didn't see the first part of that question, it isn't really submarining and sliding under the belt. In a crash, you want your body to be held into the seat without movement. If there is any forward motion due to the lack of a 5/6th belt or an improperly tightened sub-belt, it's really easy for your lower body to move and then you get a bunch of compression through your spine. The result is usually crushed spinal discs. A member of the local club was driving his E36 (I think a Spec E36), and he lost his brakes going about 130mph. He hit the barrier and the force of the crash caused the car to come off the ground. His sub-belt allowed his body slide just a bit, and when the car came down it crushed his spine. He had to be cut out of the car and had back surgery immediately after he was taken to the hospital.
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Apr 9, 2013 21:56
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Today in "AI or YLLS? ":aventari posted:I just paid $50 for a pair of socks..
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Apr 17, 2013 20:34
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COTA is allowing DE's again? Or are they just honoring the ones they set up last year and then cancelled and then re-instated?
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Apr 21, 2013 06:12
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Safety depends on the venue and club running the DE. For a Miata, you need at least an SCCA approved rollback with at least a single diagonal. You should be good for your first weekend on HP+s, but you'll want to get a dedicated track pad sooner rather than later.
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Apr 25, 2013 16:03
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That roll bar looks fine. You should get belts and seats, but it isn't necessarily necessary. Phone fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Apr 25, 2013 |
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Apr 25, 2013 16:03
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Bethania's Hard Core line is solid. They also do their job quite well: look up Roll/Flip on YouTube.
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Apr 25, 2013 16:14
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jamal posted:That bar doesn't have a diagonal in the main hoop, has no harness mounts, and doesn't go to the floor of the car. There are two diagonals, there is a bolt-in harness bar (not ideal), and that's how Miata rollbars work. Here is a Hard Dog Hard Core bar:  I mean, if you want to argue that this is a lovely bar, go for it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMmjaaSQP08
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Apr 25, 2013 21:54
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Why would you buy OEM rotors? I just looked at Rockauto for a 2010 Z4 turbocharged and it's $85 for a front and $30 for a rear. With shipping, it's still under $300. Or are you saying OEM size?
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May 10, 2013 18:55
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Yeah, seconding as to what pad you're running. ATE Super Blue and TYP200 should hold you over just fine unless if you're some sort of braking savant and require Motul 2K. What track did you run?
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Jun 4, 2013 17:23
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Sadi: you doing CMP in 2 weeks? (more like 10 days)
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Jun 4, 2013 18:56
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I just bought some DTC-60s for $120 (yay cash discount). C'mon son!
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Jun 5, 2013 04:40
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I've run HT-10s on the Miata and DTC -60s on the 2. I like them a lot. The DTC is the replacement for the HTs.
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Jun 5, 2013 17:40
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Autocross is a mixed bag when it comes to translating to the track. I'm just going to focus on the positive aspects because they slightly outweigh the negatives: 1. Being able to read and react to a slide. If you autocross, you'll have some familiarity with getting out of control and you should have some idea what to do. If you don't have an autocross background, I would think that having baby's first slide at 70mph would induce a brown moment. 2. Knowing generally what the driving line should be. It might not be the optimal line, but it'll be drat close. 3. Some knowledge of the vernacular. Basic vocabulary allows a driver to improve faster and in a more meaningful way because you don't need to explain understeer and oversteer for 30 minutes. This is mostly a communication thing. 4. Goal setting. In autocross you generally can only focus on one or two areas specifically per run due to the nature of the beast. This transfers over well because you can focus on one or two things for a session, and you'll still have like 3 more 25 minute sessions later on in the day to work on other things. Autocross has its own issues, but I think that the progression from autocross to track days to wheel-to-wheel racing is probably the best for a self-financed enthusiast.
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Jun 5, 2013 19:39
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Nope. HT-10s (well now DTC-60s in the front) all around. A stock NA has a tad too much rear bias, but it's kind of a  situation unless if you start swapping brake parts.I ran HP+s two times (VIR-North, CMP), and on the second day at CMP my brakes weren't exactly confidence inspiring even though I was a novice driver. HT-10s have been a dream and then some.
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Jun 5, 2013 21:24
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poo poo, I knew you had a Z06, but I didn't know it was a C6. It's always awesome when a weekend comes together.
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Jun 30, 2013 03:32
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Welp, the Mid-Atlantic region just lost an icon: the Oak Tree at VIR has fallen.
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Jul 2, 2013 18:23
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The only way I can think of crashing at/into Oak Tree is missing South Bend (T10), and flying like a 1/3rd of a mile into it. You're way more likely to cook the brakes into T11 and put it into the outside wall.
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Jul 5, 2013 13:15
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If you're up in Canada, it might be more pricey, but check out https://www.knsbrakes.com . I've been happy with the DTC-60s on the Mazda2 and the Miata, if you need more torque there are the DTC-70s.
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Sep 4, 2013 01:43
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It happened after, so good planning on your part.
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Sep 7, 2013 00:39
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The Chump team Fatcow and I helped out on has a really brilliant setup for fuel. Talking like 1 minute for 10 gallons of gas using two 5 gallon jugs.
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Oct 1, 2013 22:20
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We had 2 or 3 "full" stops that were slightly over 5 minutes: - Driver change - 10 gallons of gas - Check fluids - Tire change - Windshield cleaning The team was pretty impressed, and we spilled more gas in the paddock than we ever did in the hot pits (awesome overflow engineering).
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Oct 1, 2013 23:39
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Modified VP jugs.
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Oct 2, 2013 03:07
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I'd say overkill, but in a good way. I do at minimum one flush a year, but it's always good to be vigilant about brakes. If this is going to be your last HPDE of the year, I wouldn't bother to flush again until before your first DE next year. -Jacob
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Oct 8, 2013 17:49
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Good stuff! I would skip the slotted rotors and just upgrade the pads to something with a real heat range like the Hawk DTC-60s. As for oil, a cooler is definitely a good idea for the LS motors on track, and I would look into an Accusump due to oiling issues as well.
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Oct 16, 2013 17:46
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RALLY HERITAGE
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Oct 19, 2013 00:26
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Won't somebody think of the people who bought real estate next to an established track with worldwide accolades?
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Oct 20, 2013 06:30
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Last weekend did a DE with BMWCCA Tarheel chapter at VIR and a E92 M3 caught fire in D group. 
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Nov 29, 2013 04:34
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Losing the oak tree proper was more significant. I used the start/finish line as a marker so I didn't have any trouble there. After next week they're going to start paving the track. The paddock is partially paved so far. Should be good.
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Nov 30, 2013 00:43
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Get Rivals or  .
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Jan 11, 2014 04:38
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the poi posted:Rivals. Get Rivals.
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Jan 11, 2014 05:41
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AFAIK, the R-S3s are good, but the Rivals are better on a lighter car. My main complaints about the R-S3s is that they're pretty quiet and terrible under braking whereas the Rivals act more like an NT-01.
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Jan 12, 2014 04:14
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Are you just doing autocross or are you going to do DEs as well?
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Jan 12, 2014 23:18
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I have the R-S3s on my Miata now (225/45R15 on a 15x9 wheel, 2200lbs) and they're a good tire. I don't like how they are under braking and when you start to get towards the edge of traction, they just let go and congrats now you're sliding. I'm running 225/45R15 Rivals this year. Car should weigh about the same.
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Jan 13, 2014 03:34
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There's only one AMB transponder and it's $400.
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Jan 15, 2014 02:49
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 06:16 |
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Run Rivals or R-S3s, you'll have a blast.
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Jan 15, 2014 16:11
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