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I did my first track night and had fun. I also saw this harness attachment arrangement in a 500 Abarth. It’s as sketchy as it looks right? Seat backs don’t really have to take any load in a crash and these dinky hoops don’t either. For clarification, that goes to the top of a three point harness, and it’s fastened to the mount bracket for the now-removed rear seat.
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Aug 9, 2018 13:08
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Also, heat will transfer faster at a higher temperature differential. It takes about 571,000 Joules to slow a 3500 lb car from 60 mph no matter whether you have Autozone budget single pistons or a Wilwood set. If you have 5 such braking events in a 2 minute lap that’s an average of about 24 kW of power/heat. That energy goes into your brakes and is turned into heat that must be dissipated. The temperature of the brake components will rise until the rate of heat transfer equals the rate of heat generation. To work on the track, you can lower temperature at which this equilibrium occurs by increasing the rate of heat transfer at all temperatures with more cooling/area from a bigger rotor/ducting, or making the components simply survive at the higher temps with upgraded pads/rotors, or both.
i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Oct 12, 2020 |
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Oct 12, 2020 16:19
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How much does track day insurance typically cost?
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Nov 4, 2020 20:31
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Thanks, that’s honestly cheaper than I thought it would be. Yeah motor sports is so goddamn expensive. Entry fees, tires, brakes, it all adds up. poo poo even a couple tanks of gas and an oil change is easily a hundred bucks. One of my other hobbies is RC airplanes and people like to gawk at how expensive it seems like it is, but even the biggest and nicest gas powered planes you are likely to see at an event are less than the cheapest car you will see at the average track day.
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Nov 4, 2020 20:53
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Gigi Galli posted:This is Palmer, it's got a similar shape in that it's got two sets of "hairpins" at one end and a high speed section at the other: Palmer is very cool but scary. I did a track day there and it rained, and a guy driving an LS swapped FC RX7 hit some standing water and slid off at the end of the front straight (we were driving CCW) and went sideways, off the track, through the grass, and between the tire wall and rock wall. He was super lucky, twenty feet in either direction and it would have not been pretty. Club Motorsports in Tamworth is similar but feels a bit safer as it’s wider and has some runoff. Speaking of Club Motorsports and others like it, what is the appeal of joining unless you really have gently caress you money? It seems like if you amortized the cost of the initiation fee and yearly dues for the max number of track days you get across like five years of membership, it comes out to the same cost as just doing regular track days with any other group or club, but then you have the flexibility of skipping an event or a whole year, and also going to different tracks. For example, if you joined Club motorsports at the bronze level, and you did ten track days a year for five years, you’d pay about 475 per track day. But through Masstuning it’s 350 per event, sometimes with a discount.
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Dec 1, 2020 21:29
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Gigi Galli posted:I have a friend who lives up there and she says it sucks to have this world class track there that the locals can’t afford to go to. Apparently it’s a common sentiment up there. Yeah supposedly they hate it. They don’t want people coming in and making noise/having fun in their cute little bedroom community (after hearing about the track for years and giving them all the permits). As someone who likes doing fun, occasionally noises stuff outside in New England this sentiment is quite common. We were instructed to not drive like assholes when leaving but that should go without saying and we hear that everywhere. I mean there aren’t races there to go watch but track days are no more than any other top tier track in New England. i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Dec 2, 2020 |
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Dec 2, 2020 02:08
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Does anybody know if NRS ever made a track brake pad? Just bought a used set of Brembos from an 04 STI and they came with some pads that still have quite a bit of life to them, but I was told the brakes were used exclusively on track. The pads definitely had gotten some heat in them at some point. They say NRS, and the NRS website only lists a street pad, which seems odd for brakes that were only used on track.
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Apr 29, 2021 15:22
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BlackMK4 posted:There are companies that buy bare backing plates or let you send in old pads and put whatever compound you want on them. Interesting, thanks.
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Apr 29, 2021 20:20
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I upgraded my car (Subaru) to a Koyo all aluminum radiator this year, any bad experiences with those? It feels pretty well made.
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Jan 3, 2022 14:31
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Cool, thanks. The price was almost the same as Mishimoto (315 vs 300 bucks). The only mishimoto part on my car is the turbo inlet and it fits like rear end. I would have run something else but it was the only thing in stock when I ordered.
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Jan 3, 2022 20:35
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I've been tracking and upgrading my Subaru Legacy GT wagon over the past few years after building the engine and realizing that driving it fast on the road is stupid and driving it slow on the road is boring. I am aware that this is a stupid decision and a bad choice for a track vehicle but I'm having fun. I have a few questions about brakes and suspension setup. This winter I installed Fortune 500 coilovers with Swift springs, with a roll center correction kit and 2015 STI steering rack. I also added a Cusco type RS rear 1.5 way plated LSD (the front diff is a Quaife ATB Torsen style). It has Whiteline front and rear sways, the front is 22mm and the rear is 20mm (stock is 20mm and 16mm). They are both two step adjustable and both set to soft. I am running Pilot Sport 4S tires. It's about 1" lower than stock. On stock suspension the car was killing the outside of tires pretty quickly as could be predicted. Adding the sways helped with this, but made it easier to upset with bumps and curbs. The coilovers made it so much more composed and predictable, as could be expected. And the diffs have made it not spin the inside tires when coming out of corners. On my last track day, I kept increasing the damper stiffness until it didn't wallow around after bumps and elevation changes, and wound up at 15/24 clicks in the front and 17/24 clicks in the rear, with 0 being full soft and 24 being full stiff. However it seems to understeer more since adding the rear diff and coilovers, especially with throttle on. I was thinking of one or more of the following to address this: - Go to the firmer setting on the rear bar - Go back to the stock front bar (though the car still has moderate body roll with the current setup, so I'm wary of making it too soft in roll) - Get some adjustable toe links so I can easily toe the rear out a bit (I am running -2 degrees front camber, 1/8" front toe out, and -1.5 degrees rear camber, 0 rear toe). I currently adjust back and forth between street and track alignments so doing the rear for track days isn't a big deal when I'm under there anyway. - Take some preload out of the rear diff (currently at 66% preload). This is a huge pain in the rear end of course since it involves dropping the rear end and disassembling the diff. It also turns fine when not under load, and doesn't skid or make any noise at all when turning slowly in a parking lot. Any thoughts on which way to go? The swaybars seem like the easiest thing to try by far, but it's basically reducing rear traction, which I'm not sure is ideal. Brake questions: I fought for a while to keep the stock brakes working well, eventually running Hawk DTC-70 pads after destroying some HPS's (which were crazy dusty on the street and didn't last on the track). These were crazy overkill and covered the side of the car with bits of my rotors. In hindsight, running them was stupid (but they did stop well). It didn't keep the rotors from getting very warped though so I went to some larger STI Brembos from a track car, which came with a set of track pads. The pads have an NRS backplate but I don't know what they are and neither did the seller. They work well from cold, have worked well at high temperatures, and are fairly clean. They are fairly loud, and they have less bite than the DTC-70's but are quite adequate. Does this sound familiar to anybody? I am thinking EBC Blue Stuff maybe? I'd like to get another set.
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May 7, 2022 03:47
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Thanks guys, I’ll start with firming up the rear bar and playing with tire pressures since it’s free. I may look into a stiffer rear spring. In stock form, the front is a bit softer than the rear, I think because of motion ratio. But my coilovers are 8k front and 6k rear, and they aren’t different for sedan or wagon. They probably do this to keep it safe. Based on what I’m doing and the thiccer butt on the wagon I might do a 7k or 8k ear spring, unfortunately I think the shocks would need a revalve for this. The diff might be too stiff as well. To change it you have to take it out of the carrier and take it apart. You can add or remove preload springs (which changes the base amount of lock) or change how the plates interleave so that fewer are in contact (which changes how much it locks up under load). You can also change the arrangement of spider gear pinion so it locks under accel or accel and decel and how much. TheBacon posted:I don’t have any advice or input but man you can’t post all that and not include a pic of a track wagon, I applaud you goon Freshly washed but lovely lighting.  And a friend of mine is a professional drone pilot, he got some awesome chase footage of two laps from my last track day. Watch for fireballs at 0:53 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lw6Rk9AsdIw Edit: bushings. The car has (fresh) stock bushings except for a whiteline ALK which gives it more caster. I’m trying to keep it somewhat comfy as it is my summer daily. I’ll also try more front camber. I can only get 2 degrees as is with the top hats full in; will need to open up the slots for the knuckles in the coilovers. i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 21:25 on May 7, 2022 |
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May 7, 2022 21:18
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Thanks for the kind words and advice everyone. I do appreciate it.jamal posted:8/6 is far from ideal spring rates, yes due to motion ratio. The rear suspension has much more leverage over the springs and you would actually want something more like 8-10k back there. If the rear motion ratio is 0.75:1 (I don't know the actual number but I'm sure it's on legacygt.com somewhere and could be higher) that gives you a rear wheel rate like 3.5k. Because wheel rate is spring rate x motion ratio squared. Pretty common for coilover companies to just spec 8/6 for literally everything without paying any attention to suspension geo. For cars with struts all around that usually works fine but then you get something like subaru rear multilink and uh, not so much. This is an excellent point and I’m sure you are right. The GR WRX which has a similar rear motion ratio gets 8k/8k by default from Fortune. So I think they just didn’t bother to put in the time developing it on this car, given how few people track their Legacies. That’s kind of disappointing considering the fact that the product seems to work well otherwise and is well regarded. honda whisperer posted:I love the track wagon. Would the coilovers work with crash bolts for extra camber? If so you could use them to dial in street camber then max the top hats out at the track. So it actually has the stock front hardware (including eccentric bolts) holding the knuckles to the coilovers, but I was disappointed that they actually slotted the upper bolt holes for some reason which means that the eccentrics don’t do anything when you turn them. With as much negative camber as the slots/eccentrics would allow, and the top hats at 0, I could get 0 degrees front camber. The top hats go out a degree or so, so if I slot the coilovers so that the camber is 0 when the top hats are all the way out, that should allow me -3 or -4 degrees with the top hats all the way in. Side note: I bought this thing Tenhulzen Automotive 2-Wheel Alignment Tool - All-in-one (Camber/Caster/Toe Plates) - Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKI0YSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1G7PNVK6ET33H7VQSZEW and it works really well! Highly recommended. Measurements are repeatable and seem pretty accurate, I’ve been able to align the car multiple times after changes. I have done string alignments in the past and this is a lot quicker to set up and easier to measure.
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May 9, 2022 01:55
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Just talked to Fortune and when I told them that I am tracking the car they recommended 8k rear springs, and that I can go up or down up to 2k and not need a revalve. So I ordered a set of 8k rear springs. Thanks for the advice guys. Hopefully I can get them on before the next track day.
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May 9, 2022 16:11
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Update on wagon springs: I swapped from the 6k rears to 8k, and had to adjust the ride height 16mm to compensate for the extra spring rate. This is a far more appropriate spring for this vehicle. It is actually a lot more comfortable, bumps that I used to slow down for can now be taken at normal speed and are less jarring. I think that the car was hitting the bump stops more often than it should have, and the unbalanced rates meant that bumps would upset the car a lot more. With the 6k springs the highest I could make the rear was a little less than 1” lower which means it wasn’t right. Gonna add some more camber next for the next track day!
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Jun 2, 2022 14:37
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Guys who track turbo Subarus (EJ257/255), what are your typical max coolant temps you like to see? I did a track day at Thompson Sunday and had a great time but it was hot as balls and I was seeing 225 or so at a few points so I backed off. My track map is very safe; it pulls more timing and boost and adds fuel when it starts to get hot and it was definitely getting into that territory. I’m going to add some better ducting to the intercooler and radiator. For those that offered suggestions about my understeer issue, thanks. I got my front camber to about 2.9 degrees and swapped rear springs from 6k to 8k and the car turns in hard and you can rotate it with a little lift. It still pushes a bit more than stock so I think I’ll stiffen the rear bar for the next session.
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Jun 28, 2022 21:54
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Can anybody tell me how much difference switching from a standard 50/50 glycol water mix to something like VP Stay Frosty (or distilled water and water wetter) make? My track days don’t require non-glycol coolant but I’m looking for better cooling and this is a very easy thing to try. Trying to decide if it is worth it.
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Jul 1, 2022 17:15
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jamal posted:I would say that kind of stuff does help, water can absorb more heat than ethylene glycol. However I'm not sure the rate of transfer is much different, maybe slower? Thermodynamics was a long time ago. So yeah if your temps are getting too high improving heat transfer from the radiator to the air is the main way to improve that. Generally a bigger radiator doesn't specifically do this, but a bigger radiator and more water means that it takes longer for the car to start to overheat. So I did some more research and remembering thermo and yeah, it will run cooler. As you said, it takes more energy to raise the temperature of one unit of water one degree than one unit of glycol. But the rate of heat transfer is proportional to the difference in temperatures between the coolant and the engine. So, assuming the same flow rate, coolant that has risen 20 degrees going through the engine is removing less heat than coolant that has risen 10 degrees. It’s the same on the radiator side, if the temperature entering the radiator is 200 and it’s exiting at 180, it’s removing less heat than coolant that is exiting at 190. Frustrating that I couldn’t find this explanation anywhere, people just said “RACECARS USE WATER BECAUSE THEY CANT SPILL SLIPPERY ANTIFREEZE ON THE TRACK” I’m also going to try a turbo blanket. I noticed that my car seemed to be overboosting, the track map is for 19 psi but I would see it jump to sometimes as high as 20.5 sometimes. I think this is because the intercooler is heatsoaking a bit. That will get some gold foil shielding, and better ducting as well.
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Jul 5, 2022 15:14
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I have run DTC's and Carbotech XP10 on my Legacy, and while they are both dusty, the Hawk dust turns to brown cement if you get it wet. It's a huge pain in the rear end to get off of the side of the car, I wound up claybaring it but plenty of Iron-X might do it as well. So if it's a street car and you can't wash the car after the track day you are in for a bad time if you get caught in the rain. The Carbotech dust comes right off just like regular road dirt.
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Jul 21, 2022 03:46
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Joe Mama posted:Randy loving Pobst That’s awesome!
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Aug 30, 2022 16:21
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Scionix posted:….because it never gave me the advertised 20PSI boost despite having 93 octane in it at all times since I've bought it. Really dumb feature. Maybe it was limiting boost due to high intake temps and track driving for safety. Does it give you 20 psi on a cool day with street driving?
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Jun 5, 2023 19:48
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 09:28 |
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I’m considering a used Cayenne or Macan as a daily/occasional light towing vehicle, anywhere I can start reading up on what to look for/avoid? My buddy tows his track car with one, this fucker managed to score one of the 600 or so GT-S’s with a manual: 
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Apr 8, 2024 14:32
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