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Lights
Dec 9, 2007

Lights, the Peacock King, First of His Name.

Looking for suggestions on replacing my old lighting kit now that I've upgraded camera bodies - I didn't have any complaints with the old kit, but for some reason the 3rd-party strobes don't work right with the Canon R6 Mk II. Old kit is:

2x Neewer NW985C
1x Canon EX 430 II
Assorted umbrellas/stands
Cheapo radio trigger set

The EX 430 II still works properly, but the Neewer strobes are close to un-usable (at best, they fire ~3 stops underexposed, and often times the flash goes off so late that the shutter's already closed). I've run across a few folks saying that something changed with the newer Canon mirrorless systems that makes a lot of 3rd-party strobes not work so well, so if anyone has personal experience using 3rd party flash gear with an R6/R6II/R5 and can confirm that the ETTL actually works, that'd be awesome.

Right now I'm looking at maybe a Godox V1C + AD200 x2, but I'm having a lot of difficulty finding any confirmation that E-TTL actually functions on the R6II with them.

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Lights
Dec 9, 2007

Lights, the Peacock King, First of His Name.

litany of gulps posted:

I've actually got a Canon R5, a Godox Xpro-C, and a couple of AD200's. I'm pretty sure I could answer your question, but I don't actually know how to do it. I've only ever used the manual flash settings on the equipment rather than the E-TTL. I'm also halfway through a pack of Imperial IPA's, which is probably why I'm struggling with some of the guides on this. If you could point me toward something that would instruct me on how to test this, I'll happily experiment and report back tomorrow when I'm sober.

I believe you just need to have all of the flashes and the trigger in TTL mode and on the same channel - basically just set up the same as if you were using manual settings, but flip all the modes to TTL instead of M. Then just take a picture where your camera's exposure settings would call for the flashes to fire at somewhere around half power or so for a good exposure - if it's blown out, the flashes probably ignored TTL and fired at full power, if it's super underexposed it probably didn't get metering info to set the power properly, and if it exposes properly, then I'm going to be spending a bunch of money soon. Thanks so much!

Lights
Dec 9, 2007

Lights, the Peacock King, First of His Name.

litany of gulps posted:

OK, I messed around a little bit with it today. As far as I can tell, it works exactly as it should. Exposure was coming out fine when set to TTL. Those AD200's are quite powerful, and typically when using them in the room that I tested them in, the power would have to be set to very low settings to not overexpose the pictures. That's a nice feature that I was completely unaware existed, previously I'd always have to do a few test shots to dial in the right power settings.

That's awesome, thank you! Guess I'm about to be spending some cash.

Also, since I was watching a bunch of videos on it, I found something you might not be aware of with the trigger if you've never used TTL. The XPro has a button near the bottom-right labelled "TCM". If you press and hold that for a second or two after taking a TTL shot, it will convert all the linked flashes to Manual, at exactly the power that the TTL had calculated for your last shot, so you can use TTL to get into the general range that the camera thinks you need, then fine tune things in manual.

Lights
Dec 9, 2007

Lights, the Peacock King, First of His Name.

Flyndre posted:

For me the Bluetooth connection works fine for remote shutter release.

But the live view which uses Wi-Fi refuses to works unless I first connect my phone to the camera using the “wireless communication” setting under the “shooting settings” (makes sense right??). And even then the connection drops after I’ve taken only a few photos. Any other way it refuses to connect at all

Canon app requires WiFi for everything too, despite connecting over Bluetooth. Very bizarre.

fake edit: I looked it up and for some reason my "oh yeah Bluetooth has pretty good bandwidth" recollection is dead wrong - Bluetooth 5 caps out around 3Mbps vs even crappy 802.11b Wi-Fi hitting 11Mbps, with modern Wi-Fi having a range of 54Mbps to 2.4Gbps. So I guess it just uses the Bluetooth to negotiate the Wi-Fi connection.

Lights
Dec 9, 2007

Lights, the Peacock King, First of His Name.

Speaking of filters, besides ND and polarizer/CPL filters, are there any other kinds that do something that you couldn't just do in a couple clicks in post-processing?

Lights
Dec 9, 2007

Lights, the Peacock King, First of His Name.

frogbs posted:

Infrared filters!

Woah, wait, I thought the IR filters are built onto the sensors of the camera, and have to be removed for to mod a camera for IR photography? Is there a filter that shifts IR up into visible or something without doing that?

JAY ZERO SUM GAME posted:

a ND filter, yeah, just do it in post

ND filters actually DO have a real use in the field, in that they allow you to shoot in ultrabright situations with slower shutter speeds or wider apertures.

Lights
Dec 9, 2007

Lights, the Peacock King, First of His Name.

frogbs posted:

Removing the IR filter over the sensor will drastically increase the IR spectrum available, but you can get away with putting an IR filter over most unmodified cameras as long as you're ok with really long exposure times. If you point a tv remote at your camera and you can see a little light when you press the button, then you've got some IR spectrum to work with.

That's awesome to know, thanks! Might have to pick up one, since while I've always been curious about doing IR, the idea of buying a third camera body just to do IR work has always been enough added cost/hassle that I haven't taken the leap.

Lights
Dec 9, 2007

Lights, the Peacock King, First of His Name.

My current sling straps are... Waka, I think? They were only like $15 or so. Only problem I had was that the strap wasn't properly reversible to wear one on each side, so I had to cut the strap of one and re-sew it with some Kevlar thread to make it sit nicely when wearing the second camera on my left hip. Hardware all feels solid enough. When I get some spare cash to spend on non-critical gear though, I want to grab one of those nice $300ish leather dual camera harnesses from Holdfast, they look great.

Lights
Dec 9, 2007

Lights, the Peacock King, First of His Name.

Ok so it's maybe a little off the exact Gear topic, but I'm looking to find a new web host for storing my photos / running my domain & email. I currently use NixiHost, who I've been really happy with, but as my storage needs have increased, my plan has become more and more inadequate, and they don't offer any ability to upgrade storage without losing my grandfathered-in pricing. Any suggestions for a good web hosting solution for photographers that isn't something like SquareSpace?

edit: for context, my primary need for space is as an event photographer to store and send images for clients. I don't need anything to build me a front end, I just need domain hosting, email and a big ol' chunk of storage that I can send people links to.

Lights fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Sep 16, 2023

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Lights
Dec 9, 2007

Lights, the Peacock King, First of His Name.

I've got a kinda odd lighting situation that I'm trying to figure out a good solution for:

An event I do photography for does a big bonfire dance party every evening. The area where that happens at is very far away from any form of electricity. The bonfire provides a lot of light, but results in either having to shoot across it to be able to get an image of people with actual lighting (difficult due to the number of people dancing around and in the way), or having to shoot with the fire backlighting them (looks cool, but results in the subjects being entirely in the shadows). Last year, I used an on-camera flash for filling in subjects, but I'm trying to be less invasive/distracting for this year's event, so my thought was to get some kind of battery-powered spotlight, mount it up in a tree pointing down towards one portion of the area around the fire (probably with an orange gel over it to keep the light colors roughly matched?).

If I go that route, I need to find a good spotlight that is powerful enough to cast a decent light circle from 20-30 feet away, while also having enough battery life to last at least 6 hours. Ideally, I'd prefer something with adjustable power output, but worst case I could probably just grab some ND gels and stack them until the light level works for the effect I'm going for. I'd also like for it to be chargable via USB if possible - easier to run a USB cable down and plug a power bank in than to climb a tree to take the thing down to charge every night.

Anyone have any recommendations for a good light that would let me do that? Or alternative ways that I could non-invasively accomplish the same general task?

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