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timrenzi574 posted:60mm macro is a nice lens, but you have to get really close with it. So depending what you want to do macro of it could be good or bad (stamps, great. Insects? Maybe not so great) I used to use a Nikon 40mm Micro Nikkor as a general walk-around lens for a long time on my DX bodies. It was amazingly sharp for general purpose shots and when I wanted to get really close to something I was able to. I don't think I'd want to do the same with my 105mm Micro Nikkor because that poo poo's heavy. What I'm trying to say is that one should consider the possible other uses of a lens as well. Unless, of course, it's only going to be used for one specific task/purpose.
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Aug 16, 2015 20:50
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I'm planning to get circular polarizing filter(s) for my lenses and have the following options: buy one filter for each of my lens thread sizes (82mm and 77mm) or just buy a 82mm filter and get a 82-to-77 adapter. Is the filter+adapter solution good enough or will it get me into trouble under some circumstances?
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Aug 19, 2015 20:39
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:What circular polarisers are good? I"m a big fan of the Hoya HD Digital series of circular polarisers.
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Oct 2, 2015 10:05
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windex posted:Even Peggy, who is out in maternity leave for a year, forwarded all her emails to her hotmail account, and keeps her passwords to everything taped to her monitor. FWIW, having your passwords taped to your monitor is probably one of the safest ways to store them at home. At a workplace less so, but that's what keyboards are good for.
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Jun 4, 2016 10:45
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Highblood posted:That KX-800 is sexy as hell but that price is hella steep. If you want to shoot bugs, check out Thomas Shahan's stuff: https://www.youtube.com/user/terser/featured
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Jun 23, 2016 19:13
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Bromine posted:I was wondering what suggestions you guys had for an external flash. I have a D5200, but obviously the on-board flash is garbage. I want to take pictures indoors that don't look terrible by default. I want something somewhat versatile so I can keep using it the more I get into photography. Are there any third party manufacturers that make something worth buying? I can spend 200-300 bucks without feeling too guilty about it. I'm totally in love with the Godox TT685N TTL: http://flashhavoc.com/godox-tt685n-ttl-speedlight-released/ So much so in fact that I switched all my much more expensive Nikon and Nissin flashes and my PocketWizard trigger system over to the Godox units. The thing I love the most about them is that they have a 2.4GHz radio trigger system built-in that's also compatible with their studio and outdoor strobes and other flash units (I also have the AD360II-N and it's a beast), as explained here: http://flashhavoc.com/godox-flash-system-overview/ That means that I don't have to shell out for another PocketWizard receiver as well any time I get an additional light.
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Aug 21, 2016 09:46
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8th-snype posted:Tell me more about this. I was interested in one but heard a few horror stories of cheap construction and overheating. Do you use it like a studio light or at events? Hmm, not much to say really. I'm using it mainly in studio setups and haven't had any problems with it yet. No overheating or anything, even though I use a Y cable on the battery pack to get fast recycle times. I'm super happy with the build quality and the wireless system has given me much less trouble than the PocketWizards. Using PWs with Nissin flashes is a poo poo show. The Godox system just works. Be it the AD360II or the TT685, be it TTL or HSS. It's like magic. And the firmwares for all devices can be easily updated via USB. Best value and functionality for money I have found so far.
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Aug 21, 2016 16:38
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Bromine posted:Wireless is definitely something I'd want. Do you normally have to buy a separate transmitter, or do they come with one? As mentioned before, the newer Godox (or whatever your local rebranded name is, for example the Godox TT685 is Adorama's Flashpoint Zoom R2 TTL) have proper radio triggers built-in, which means the flashes do not need extra receivers and because they are true radio trigger systems they also don't give a gently caress about line-of-sight. All you need is the X1 transmitter on your camera ($40 or $50 or less) or another flash unit set as transmitter. It's really easy.
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Aug 23, 2016 06:49
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Bromine posted:I went and got the Godox 860 with the X1 and I'm still learning how all the modes work but I have a question. I was just loving around with the camera in one hand and the flash in the other and it seems like the flash won't fire depending on where I'm holding it. I haven't been able to figure out any pattern to this. It should be in radio mode so line of sight shouldn't be a problem. Any ideas as to why? It's bugging the poo poo out of me. You need to get the 860II if you want to have radio trigger. The old 860 doesn't have the 2.4GHz system build-in.
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Aug 30, 2016 06:44
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Bromine posted:I have the 860II N. It works most times, just about 20% of the time it doesn't fire. I'm pretty sure it's not recycling or anything. It seems to be related to how I'm holding them in relation to each other. That sounds really odd. I can't speak for the 860II as I don't have one of them. I use TT685 and AD360II units with the X1 transmitter and it doesn't matter where they are, be it inside softboxes, around corners, behind or in front of me, I never had problems. PocketWizards gave me more problems than the Godox system  On a different note: I finally bit the bullet and ordered the Tamron SP 15-30mm for my Nikon D750 and feel giddy like a kid just before Christmas.
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Sep 18, 2016 13:00
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Syrinxx posted:Thank you for the heads up, I removed it from my order and I'll hunt around for an AF-S 50 or 35 instead. If you can squeeze it into your budget I'd suggest the AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR 40mm f/2.8G instead of the 50mm or 35mm. The 40mm is one of the sharpest lenses I ever had the pleasure to shoot with and it gives you the option to get really up close if you want to.
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Nov 9, 2016 11:39
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