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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Yes, the one true medium format camera to get is a Mamiya Press Super 23. For one thing, it's better than a 680.

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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

The GX680 is still bad and intended to be in a studio environment. It is not comparable to a RZ67

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Expect to pay a large premium for JCH. Search around yourself using a Yahoo Auctions buying service like Buyee and you'll be better off imo. Shop around on the buying service too. I've only used Buyee and have been happy with them but others exist and may be cheaper to use. It'll be cheaper than JCH either way I'm sure.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

It pays to do creative search terms and mix it up. You also should pour over the photos. I've had good experiences in the past buying untested gear that looked good but that's no guarantee obviously. Good luck in your hunt! If you're after that form factor and don't want fixed lenses you might also want to expand the search to the Fujica GM670 and Pentax 67. Unless you specifically want a 66.

Megabound fucked around with this message at 08:16 on Jun 1, 2021

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Or, if you want 6x6 and interchangeable lenses and don't mind an SLR then an Arax 60 is a choice you could make and have access to the excellent Pentacon 6 line of lenses of you were trying to avoid system cameras with waist level finders. Also heard very good things about the Super Fujica Six which has a coupled rangefinder and a stellar lens.

Megabound fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Jun 1, 2021

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

dupersaurus posted:

I know that the thread title says to get a Pentax ME, but if I wanted to get something that's at least theoretically compatible with my existing F-mount lenses, what's a good camera of similar vintage/price to look at?

Edit: Actually nevermind, I just realized none of my lenses have aperture rings. Is there a reason not to get a Pentax ME?

The ME Super has a full manual mode while the ME is aperture priority only.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

As far as my cataloguing goes I import folders into LR that are defined by camera then roll with a number and name. 35mm and 120 are numbered independently but are just ever increasing, each negative sheet is numbered with the start frame and roll name.

From there in LR I'll flag picks and rejects, then picks get catalogued into themes or projects. Folders in LR Classic are separated from catalogues and one photo can belong to any number of catalogues.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

What should I be looking for in the 2nd hand market for a good video shooter, doesn't need to be any more than 1080p, it's for demoing products at work. Is Sony still the go to for video?

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Talking to my boss and it looks like we'll be investing in a BMPCC 4k, really competitive pricing. I'll find a used M4/3 kit zoom or something for it for cheap and it'll do for now.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Canon L1 or VL, or anything else Canon rangefinder.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

8th-snype posted:

Those are LTM tho
Shows how much I know about Leica mounts.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

If you take collapsible out of the equation then an Olympus 35 RD or RC is certainly pocketable. Or you could go weird and Italian and find a Officine Galileo Condor

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

The Plustek 35mm holders would do a good job at holding your stuff flat. I've also seen reviews for this system and it is apparently very good: https://www.valoi.co/

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

If you have all the stuff already to do camera scanning there's no issue, I can understand not wanting to invest more in a scanner. If I'm talking to someone and they don't have a digital camera, and they only scan 35mm my suggestion is any of the Plustek 8xxx series, if medium format at above it's an Epson 7xx or 8xx series.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Work just bought me an X-T4 (for work related projects of course) with that same lens and boy is it a nice camera and lens.

I'm sure I'll forget to take it out of my bag when I go home sometimes, I'm just a forgetful guy!

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Even half frame looks good at 8x10 with a traditional printing process

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Community darkrooms may still be a thing where you live, they're 2 in my city, and join a local photography club. I run beginners classes in my darkroom though my local club and yours may do similar.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

That's excessive... I can normally get a decent 8x10 print out in 2 sheets. If it's a complex fine art thing it might take 5 or 6 to really nail but it's all about economical use of strips of paper and good planning.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Giottos-AA1900-Rocket-Blaster-Large/dp/B00017LSPI/ref=sr_1_3

I've stayed away from anything with an electric motor due to static.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I put a UV filter on and it made all my photos bad.

Haven't taken it off yet.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

My general rule is that if you can only see it by shining through very bright light or by looking very closely it will not effect your images. Anyway, it could be mold. Can you tell what element it's on? You might get lucky and it's on the rear element before the shutter in which case you can just unscrew it and clean it off.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

That's the nice thing about LF lenses, very serviceable. If it looked like fungus a clean with ammonia and a dash of peroxide will kill whatever's on it dead and keep it good. The other thing I've heard is leaving your lens in direct sunlight so UV can do the job for you too.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

We can't get them for love or money. A Beagleboard Black would be the way to go with the current chip shortages.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I think a rangefinder would be a poor choice, seeing as I imagine you'd want to be getting up close to your subject and the minimum focus distance may not be up to the job. I'd be going for something in the Minolta XD or X-570 era so you get a real good aperture priority while keeping your size down.

Or like a Pentax MX or LX? Those things are tiny. Gotta get one recently serviced tho cause of the infamous mirror sticking issue.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

bobmarleysghost posted:

Don't use the shutter advance for that, it can damage the mechanism iirc.
Instead the official way to close the shutter is to change the aperture.

Not changing aperture, changing shutter speed, which is what I think he means by manhandling the shutter dial

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Krataar posted:

So I've come into a Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II with its 14-42mm lens. I dont know much about cameras but I've been doing more art lately namely painting. Since I received this camera I've been wanting to do more with it. Mostly landscapes, maybe some shots of buildings/americana type stuff, and close ups of miniature figures. I'm having trouble grokking a few things about lenses and cameras. It seems some things are interchangeable, but others arent. So I am looking for lenses that would work for these things, and then I would rent them and try them out before making a final decision. Is this the right thread for input on that?

Yeah, this is the correct place. The bit of info you're looking for is the lens mount. Lenses that use the same mount can be fit to any camera that use it and be expected to work.

Your olympus uses an MFT mount. If you chuck "MFT lens" into Google or ebay you should find plenty out there. As for what lens you should buy you're looking at opposite ends of the spectrum here, and I doubt that one lens will cover everything from the close up macro work you want to do to wider landscapes. The kit lens you have on the camera already is probably going to be just fine for landscapes so you'll want to look for an MFT macro lens.

Actually, it looks like there's a website with every MFT lens made on: https://www.four-thirds.org/en/lens/

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

If you're super concerned leave it in the sun for a bit for the UV to kill it off but I wouldn't be too concerned

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

No, he's talking about the coloured rings you can see on the lens coating itself.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Viginti Septem posted:

Some stuff I'm just now finding.

Canon apparently makes a version too called the Selphy.

The Selphy is a fun thing and puts out pretty good drug store quality prints. Good enough for my fridge at least. I recommend it.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Lights posted:

Speaking of filters, besides ND and polarizer/CPL filters, are there any other kinds that do something that you couldn't just do in a couple clicks in post-processing?

Pro-mist filters would be hard to do post

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

huhu posted:

I've had such lovely luck with point and shoot film cameras. I'm wondering how I should guarantee success with my next purchase. I was thinking of maybe getting a Kodak Ektar H35 Half Frame Film Camera. Any other recommendations?

Skip the Kodak Ektar H35 and get something in the Pen EE series if you want half frame. It'll cost you the same or less for a much better camera.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

blue squares posted:

I got a flash and trigger because, well, I felt like I am taking photography seriously and its a core piece of gear. But after setting it up and trying it out, I absolutely hate it. Yes, part of this is due to not knowing how to use it, but also:
- Its really heavy when mounted to my camera
- Its hard to know what the result will be until after I take the photo
- I do street, landscape, wildlife, architecture (mostly). I don't do events, portraits, etc

I feel like it was stupid of me to buy a flash and that I should just return it. I have an LED light I can use thats easier to carry, offers full color spectrum, etc. Seems like I should just use that when I want more light or if I am doing a fun project

Sounds like you should use your flash more to understand when and where you'd want to use it to get the effect you want. They can be really useful in landscapes and street to fill in missing light where you need it, and also when they're done well they don't stand out like a sore thumb. Both these shots are direct fill flash balanced to match the exposure of the background



Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Counterpoint, get a Metz CT series

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Incredulous Dylan posted:

I’m not a fan of the look of flash but I know it can be super helpful. Is minimizing that flash look, while still getting useful light, just about power or is it a timing thing? Like I’ve read about Hasselblad’s leaf shutter system being great for flash and didn’t know if that is because it helps it look more natural or if you can just fire more off?

Leaf shutters of any kind are benificial for flash work because you can use the flash at any shutter speed, making balancing your exposure for natural light against your flash easier. When using a focal plane shutter you'll only be able to flash sync at a certain shutter speed or slower as that's the fastest speed where the entire sensor is exposed.

As you increase shutter speed in a focal plane shutter the curtains get triggered at shorter and shorter intervals until you reach a point where there's only a slit that's open and exposing the film.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

JAY ZERO SUM GAME posted:

hell yeah

i modified one many years ago to accept giant remote control car batteries. that thing would fire full power for hundreds of shots

I want to make a lithium battery pack for mine, sick of buying double As

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

bobmarleysghost posted:

you could buy rechargeables!

After doing some research apparently enerloops provide really good recycle time, so I will, thanks!

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Learn a new skill goddamn

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Seriously, buy a 50 and leave the 135 at home one day and just make it work. Go for a walk and try it out.

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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

blue squares posted:

Nah, there’s no auto mode on those

Huh? Looking at the photos for the GR through to GRIII they all have a program mode.

e: They also all have an auto mode...

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