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How interested would people be in an effortpost about Soviet cameras? And is this the thread for it or should I make a new one/post it somewhere else/stop posting forever?
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Apr 15, 2016 23:39
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 12:06 |
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I made an effortpost which turned into a goddamn it's 11am and I haven't slept yet post. It's on Tumblr because I might want to link it in other places. If you're interested in pics of my growing SovCam collection, I have an album for them on Flickr. It includes ancillary stuff like lightmeters and lenses. Edit. I made a thread too. Helen Highwater fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Apr 16, 2016 |
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Apr 16, 2016 10:11
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A lot of sling straps also have extenders so that they attach to both lens and body at the same time. I guess if you were walking around with a huge lens, that would make a lot of sense.
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Apr 22, 2016 15:36
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Shifty Pony posted:I've only just started futzing around learning Lightroom but it appears to be quite capable of largely fixing even the worst case shots looking down on the blinding tops of clouds with jet black volcanic rock in the foreground. Import all your pictures into a collection called Honeymoon or w/e. Use the option in the import dialogue to save a second copy to a different hard drive. Then make a first pass through the pictures to rate them. Use the arrow keys to move from one to another and the 1-5 number keys to assign a rating. It's up to you what system you use to rate them, I rate everything I want to work on at 4, everything that's technically ok but not interesting (or duplicated) at 3, stuff that's no good at all at 2 for example. The main objective is to separate the ones that you want to work on from the rest. It's basically two key presses per photo so you can go through them all super fast on this pass. When you've done that, go to the filter in the bottom right of the Develop module and choose 'Rated' and then click on the stars next to that which corresponds with your minimum workable rating (so I'd click on the 4th star to filter out all the photos that aren't rated at least 4). Now instead of 800 photos to work on, you probably have like 200 but all of your other photos are still available if you want to go back and do a second pass of the ones that didn't make the cut first time.
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May 2, 2016 18:07
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Ineptitude posted:This will automatically get you to the next photo because the photo you flagged/rejected is being filtered out. I tried this method for a while but found it was a more time consuming method as occasionally you mistakenly flag a photo. Then you need to remove the filter, try to find the photo, unflag it, and apply the filter again. Ctrl-Z.
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May 5, 2016 17:20
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XBenedict posted:Recommend me a new bag/backpack. My old Tamrac is winding down its life. The zippers are hard to operate, and it really, it's just too small. I can tell you what to avoid. Don't get the Manfrotto Stile sling bag. It's nicely made and has some neat features but holy poo poo that single strap kills the one shoulder that all your poo poo is now hanging off. THe idea is that you can swing it around from your back to your front without taking it off, and when it's in front of you, it's hanging horizontally with the camera compartment on top. Which sounds cool except that if you are a lady with any kind of chest or a guy who's either taller or rounder than average, the bag is going to be jammed under your chin if you do that. It's a pain to just pick up and move around too, because you can't just sling it over the off shoulder as it doesn't hang right, you need to put it on over your head every time. Hope you don't have long hair or wear a hat. It is a nicely made bag though, mine gets used as cabin baggage if I'm not taking anything heavy with me and for lens storage the rest of the time. In non-bag related camera gear news however, I bought this today.  1930 Ihagee Photoklapp Duplex. F. Deckel 105mm f/4.5 lens by Iain Compton, on Flickr It's beautiful and in perfect condition. Even all the velvet light seals are like new. The wallet has three 6.5x9 film holders in it. Helen Highwater fucked around with this message at 23:39 on May 14, 2016 |
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May 14, 2016 23:10
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Weatherproof cover Couple of bags of silica gel in case your stuff gets damp Another SD card or two. 32GB holds about 1000 RAW files from a FF camera. If you aren't going to be regularly dumping images to an external drive during your trip, you'll probably want more capacity.
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Jun 8, 2016 16:41
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Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 is a solid wide lens for crop sensor cameras. It's about $400 new.
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Jun 30, 2016 16:55
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I was hiking in the mountains yesterday and my CarrySpeed sling strap failed. It has a bottom plate that attaches to the tripod mount on the camera and this attaches in turn to the strap via a captive ball. Well, even with the nut on the strap fully tightened, the ball was able to pull free of the strap. My 70D and Sigma 17-50 f2.8 got dumped onto rocks and both are in bad shape. The top screen on the camera is smashed and the lens is busted open. Glass seems to be fine (including the CPL on the front) but the barrel is now a tilt-lens with about 20° of movement from horizontal. It looks like the part with all the elements is ok, if I'm lucky, it's only the mount that's hosed. I'll have to test the camera to make sure there isn't any other damage that's not apparent from the outside. So PSA I guess, if you have a CarrySpeed strap or one that has a similar design, check it regularly for wear on the ball-joint.
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Jul 11, 2016 06:51
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I use an adapter to use m42 mount lenses on my EOS mount. It focuses just fine (manually obviously). Mostly I'm using 35-58mm lenses though, I have some longer lenses for that mount but I've never used them with a adapter. The adapter is like $5 though so you aren't exactly out a fortune if you buy one to test it first.
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Jul 13, 2016 19:32
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POWELL CURES KIDS posted:Hi gear thread. I'm super new to photography, and I'm looking for baby's first remote shutter release, to go with baby's first used Nikon D7000. I don't have any other gear except a tripod and two lenses (Nikon's AF-S 18-55 and 55-300), and I'm trying to be thrifty and grab equipment that will stay useful throughout the learning curve. I mostly shoot landscape, and I'm trying to branch into night-time/low-light shooting and long exposures. For the remote shutter release, my extremely uninformed search has turned up two main candidates: Do you need wireless control? By which I mean, do you just want to be able to fire the camera without touching it (for macro or long exposure stuff for example). If that's the case and you don't anticipate being more than a couple of metres away from your camera when you want to fire it, you can get a cheap wired remote for less than $10 ($30 if you want the Nikon MC-DC1 version). For your long exposure night photography, that should set you up nicely (I use the equivalent Canon product for my long exposure shots).
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Sep 15, 2016 10:32
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Erostratus posted:So, i'm in photography school and doing a video class while knowing next to nothing about video. What's the best shotgun mic for a Canon 6D for say, under $150? Or is a lavalier around that price point a better idea? I have this RØDE mic. It's fine and falls between the two that Red19Fire listed as it has a high-pass filter and its own batteries as a power source.
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Sep 17, 2016 21:38
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spog posted:Imagine losing that or accidentally formatting it. It would be hard to accidentally format it, you'd have what, a month or so, to watch the progress bar crawl across the screen.
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Sep 21, 2016 13:50
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Anyone used the Breakthrough Photography filters? Worth it over the standard players in the market? I have one of their X4 CPL filters. It's nice and feels good to use but I haven't noticed any appreciable difference in quality between it and my Hoya filters in other sizes. Certainly nothing that offsets the considerable markup. Mine picked up some micro scratches from a polishing cloth and the black paint wears off the machined brass quite easily (which may be a design feature).
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Sep 22, 2016 15:25
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Those are awesome. I have a 110 camera (well, a pseudo-110 anyway), a Kiev 30. It was smaller than the 110 standard so you had to cut 35mm film to size manually and load it into a re-usable cartridge yourself. It folds up and you cock the shutter and wind on the film by closing it and then pulling it open again which makes a sound like a tiny shotgun being racked.
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Oct 8, 2016 10:14
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My mum is visiting and she loves taking photos. I hesitate to say that she loves photography because she doesn't understand even the most basic principles of it. At the moment she has some lovely point and shoot that has no manual controls, only scene presets. I'd like to get her a basic compact that at least lets her play around with aperture and shutter speed without overwhelming her (no joke, she couldn't figure out how my kitchen tap worked and it's just a regular mixer tap). It has to be: Cheap. I'm not spending on this because the difference to her between a cheap and lovely camera and an expensive camera will be approximately zero. Small. She won't carry something the size of a DSLR or even a mirrorless system. She also won't want to gently caress around with interchangeable lenses. Digital. I offered to lend her something from my analogue collection while she's here but she wants to just take pictures SOOC and put them on Facebook. What are not terrible options in the land of ultralow-end cameras?
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Oct 27, 2016 09:30
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I honestly don't know, hence my reluctance to sink money into this. However she is super enthusiastic about taking photos and keeps asking me how I get effects in my pictures like separation of subject and background or misty water etc. She takes her camera everywhere and takes hundreds of photos a week with it. I explained that she can't do the stuff that she wants to do with the camera that she has because it doesn't have the basic controls to control depth of field or exposure length. So I'd like to get her something that at least lets her achieve super basic stuff like that.
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Oct 27, 2016 09:48
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There's also this guy. I'm trying to get a prototype out of him, I'll let you know how it goes.
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Oct 27, 2016 20:33
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Factory reconditioned 70Ds should be at around that point, I think brand new ones are down to about $650 or so since the 80D came out. You can keep your existing Canon glass and use the cheap as hell nifty-fifty. Will happily shoot at ISO6400 with very little noise even if you don't fix it in post. Ergonomics are about the same as your T1i except that there's an additional LCD screen on the top to see your settings. It does have wireless on board and it works fine but it's not a good UX. You can however pull photos SOOC without a cable to your smartphone, tablet or computer if you're prepared to jump through a few minor hoops first. It has an articulated touch screen which you don't care about but I am pretty sure you will care about it once you've used it. No matter what you are shooting, this makes things easier in so many ways.
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Nov 8, 2016 10:42
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Attach a smartphone stylus to your forehead and use live view and the touchscreen for everything.
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Nov 11, 2016 17:08
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Martytoof posted:I swear I have a Helios-44 where the aperture ring is wide open at f/MAX and constricted at f/2. Can you even put a lens together incorrectly like that or is it from the bizarro universe? It could be that you are confusing the aperture ring with the pre-selector ring. Because that's how it works. If the pre-selector ring (with a red dot on it) is set to the smallest aperture, then the lens will be wide open. Actually it will be wide open if the pre-selector ring is set equal to the currently selected aperture. Closing the pre-selector ring down to f/2 will stop the lens down to whatever aperture you selected with the aperture ring. Edit: Because the Zenit doesn't have an automatic stop-down link like most cameras, the Helios lenses have to be opened for focusing and then closed for taking manually. So the lens has an extra ring to do this without having to actually change the aperture selection. You select the aperture (the ring that has the aperture settings printed on it) and then open the preselector ring so that the red dot is aligned with the aperture you selected. At this point the lens is wide open. Then, when you've focused, you rotate the pre-selector ring down to the f/2 position which is where the lens is now stopped down to the aperture you selected. At f/2, the preselected aperture and the wide open aperture are obviously the same so this is why it works like that. Here's one of mine, the aperture ring has the aperture stops marked on it and the one that aligns with the red triangle on the depth of field meter is selected (in this case f/4). The preselector ring is the one with the red dot marked on it and in the photo it's in the stopped down position. If it was at the f/4 position, the lens would be wide open. 
Helen Highwater fucked around with this message at 11:40 on Dec 11, 2016 |
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Dec 11, 2016 11:21
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Magnetic whiteboard?
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Dec 23, 2016 09:53
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Check out this archive of old camera ads. The ones from the 70s and 80s are especially fun as many of us still own those cameras and you can see how they were hyped when they were new. You can see DJExile's point by comparing ads from 110 systems or instant cameras to Leica or Mamiya or Hasselblad ads.
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Jan 19, 2017 14:25
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ExecuDork posted:This is great. I have many fond memories of Canon's "Wildlife as Canon sees it" series, there was always at least one in every issue of National Geographic. There are multiple pages for each decade. Page two of the 1990s features this rather  ad Edit: The more I look at that ad, the more wtf I am about it. Why does an ad for a camera have a drawing of a lady rather than a photo of one? What is going on with her shoulders? Why are her breasts not attached to her ribs? Why does she have a hunchback? Why did they spell Extreme like that? Why are they selling an action camera with a fetish lingerie image instead of some kind of outdoor sports activity? Helen Highwater fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Jan 19, 2017 |
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Jan 19, 2017 17:15
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How does the BlackRapid attach to the camera? From the picture it looks like a eye that screws into the tripod mount. Is there anything that stops it from unscrewing itself if it swings around? I have a Rollei sling strap at the moment and it has a locking system so that it can't unscrew unless you press it in first. Unfortunately you have to take it off if you want to put the camera on a tripod which is a pain. I'd love a system like the Carryspeed one that attaches via a plate that is tapped and drilled for tripods so you don't have to keep taking it on and off.
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Feb 13, 2017 20:00
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Fwiw I don't find that a camera on a sling strap bounces around too much either, but if you want to attach a camera to a backpack strap then the thing you are looking for is a Peak Design capture clip.
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Feb 17, 2017 00:48
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DP reviews here too, their editorial content is pretty solid and gear reviews are well done with as much detail as anyone needs. The forums are full of idiots who have nothing better to do all day but post on a photography forum. My favourite was the guy who said that sending pictures via wifi reduced the image quality.
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Apr 7, 2017 12:17
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mAlfunkti0n posted:Don't ever read the site unless its just for a laugh OR to get technical specs for a lens or camera body as its just a basic copy and paste. Them are my rules. That's why I use $30,000 cables supported by quantum ionisers to transfer the digital signal from my camera to the computer.
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Apr 7, 2017 14:28
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A cheap tripod is better than no tripod, but be aware that portable stability costs and a cheap tripod will generally not be as stable a platform as you might like - especially if you are using bigger lenses.
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Apr 27, 2017 19:43
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Kilometers Davis posted:Yeah all of my out of the house shooting at this point is done via handholding my 50mm and the tripod use will be all inside or at worst outside on the patio or backyard for puppy shoots. I mainly want one so I can start shooting some YouTube guitar videos and messing around with getting better product images for selling things online. Are there any competitors to the Amazon Basics tripod at the same price point I should look at? Most ultra cheap tripods are exactly the same - as in they are completely identical and probably even from the same production line, just with different brand decals applied. I had a cheap and lovely Hama tripod, my girlfriend had an Amazon Basics one, and the only physical difference beyond the branding was that mine came with a bag. I'd really recommend getting a decent tripod. You might not think you'll use it much, but I can tell you that when you see the difference it can make even with regular cityscape shots, you'll want to use it more.
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Apr 28, 2017 10:14
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Most messenger bags should be able to handle that. A quick look at LowePro's Bag Finder tool spits out pretty much their entire range of messengers. If you aren't carrying anything else in it except those cameras and a few small accessories, then I can't imagine you'll push the limits of most brands' messenger bags. I fly a lot and I am usually carrying a regular carryon bag plus a messenger bag with a padded insert for camera gear (the actual bag is a kevlar Planetside 2 bag I got from Sony years ago when I worked their stand at E3) and I've never had any hassle carrying it through as a personal item.
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Apr 28, 2017 21:24
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I just want to say I got a Peak Design Summit Edition Sling strap yesterday and now I understand the love for PD stuff. This is a beautiful strap and it feels impressively engineered. The plate being arca tripod compatible is just gravy - my previous Rollei sling strap had to be taken off before you could put the camera on a tripod. I'm probably going to get a couple more for when I'm carrying multiple cameras and maybe a capture clip or two as well.
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May 16, 2017 09:36
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My advice would be that you probably won't see any benefit from the full-frame option except that it means you get to spend more money on lenses. For the kind of photography you describe, there's going to be practically no difference between the image quality of a decent APS-C camera and a full-frame body. As for whether to stick with Canon or jump to Sony/Nikon, the 80D has a very similar control layout to your 40D so there'll be a very minor period of reorientation when you upgrade. I usually shoot with a 70D and, whenever I am given a Nikon to use, I have to hunt all over for even basic stuff like shutter speed and aperture controls. It's a minor point and, obviously it's not going to always be a problem if you move but it might be a factor. As far as review scores go, I doubt very much whether there's a significant difference in actual use between any of those platforms for comparable models. Especially if you are editing your photos and aren't just posting SOOC jpegs to Facebook. Any minor differences are going to get lost in Lightroom sliders. Your absolute best option for that kind of photography would be a medium format system but that will probably be out of budget if you're looking at a digital option and I'd guess you don't want to gently caress around with film.
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May 30, 2017 16:06
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If you're on a budget and aren't really sure what you want to go for, then buy a new charger and battery for your D60 and play around with the lens that you have while you figure out what it is that you want. If you find that you can't get close enough to the action, buy a second-hand 55-200. If you find that you're doing a lot of wide shots then buy a decent tripod. When you've shot a bit more, you'll have a better idea of what your needs actually are and you won't have sunk a lot of money into your current setup if you decide that a new camera that might be in a different system is the way forwards.
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May 31, 2017 12:02
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Something like this? You'll just need to sew a pocket along the top edge or use clamps. That's 59" wide, some fabric stores will have double width rolls if that's not big enough.
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Jul 19, 2017 11:47
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Right, I was more highlighting the options vis a vis local fabric stores rather than endorsing a specific product. I'm sure that you can buy blackout cloth in a variety of colours much cheaper than that but as I don't know where you are, I just picked a random US online storefront.
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Jul 20, 2017 00:02
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SIgma and Tamron each do a 17-50mm f/2.8 for APS-C bodies at around $300. I have the Sigma version and it's nice. It's my go to walkabout lens.
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Jul 25, 2017 14:34
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dupersaurus posted:Do you guys have favorite easy-access lens holders? Stuff like Lens Flipper I got fed up of carrying a backpack just to hold a spare lens or two, so I bought a little LowePro Format 140 shoulder bag. It's going to be snug if you want it to hold a larger DSLR with any lens bigger than about 200mm on it but I carry my camera on a sling strap separately and just use the bag for lenses, small accessories and maybe a spare film camera. You can fit 2-3 unmounted lenses in there as long as they aren't super-tele monstrosities. I just about got a 70-200 and a 50mm in at the same time but it was tight. If you take all the dividers out, you can comfortably fit a medium format camera and a bunch of 120 film in there instead.
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Jul 25, 2017 16:32
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There's a whole load of options if you want retro film shooting funtimes. What is your budget and what formats are you interested in?
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Sep 19, 2017 15:11
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 12:06 |
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ExecuDork posted:If you want to explore film photography - YES, DO THIS - then pretty much any 35mm SLR will do. I'm partial to Pentax and Minolta bodies from the 1980's but it really comes down to personal taste, which is driven entirely by subjective factors like "this looks cool" or "my uncle had one of these" or "I saw one of these in a movie". And then there's the wide, weird world of Former-Soviet-Union (FSM) camera gear, which combines retro with the Iron Curtain. Buy a lot of bad and weird cameras. Have fun shooting them despite their many flaws. You can buy pro-grade film cameras for the cost of a night out if you look around. I have a poo poo-ton of old Soviet cameras from the 50s, 60s and 70s and I paid almost nothing for most of them. Other than my medium format Arax which I bought new and the Spotmatic that I bought from a Dorkroomer, most of them cost me less than $50. Buy old cameras because they look cool, because they evoke memories of old family holidays, because you like industrial design and precision engineering or just because they are rad things to have around. Buy old cameras is what I am saying.
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Sep 20, 2017 02:54
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