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jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
I have an R5 the EVF is essentially blackout less and the eye tracking AF is basically voodoo magic.

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jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Secondhand R6?

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
50mm on crop is 80mm FF equivalent, if this focal length is enough then a 50mm f/1.8 (like an EF STM) would be good.

But I would wager 80mm is probably a little short, but this will depend on how close you can get to the action.

Indoor sports is hard because the light level is so low for photography at higher shutter speeds needed to capture action especially in school gyms and you generally cannot use a flash as will annoy the athletes, so you probably want a f/2.8 lens at the minimum.

a 70-200 f/2.8 for instance is a classic sports lens.

But the people I know who shoot indoor sports say that even f/2.8 can be too slow and some use exotic lenses like the Sigma 105 f/1.4 or even the mythical Canon 200mm f/1.8 but these are likely outside your budget.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Professor Shark posted:

It’s going to be students taking the shots, so they should be able to move around and get pretty close if needed

Would suggest the camera is probably fine, but before you get gear if you can beg/borrow a camera and zoom lens and test the focal lengths out.

Then if 50mm on crop (80FF) is right pick up a 50mm f/1.8 (RF or EF STM with adapter)

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Previous cheaper DSLRs could not AF at f/8 or smaller (and f/11 is way out for even higher end DLSR (mabe 1Dx's??))

So making a telephoto that had such a small max aperture was not that useful as it would have no AF.

Mirrorless doesn't have the same limitations.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
counter, counterpoint get a MT-26EX-RT and only take pictures of bees' crazy faces


Bumblebee on Marjoram by Aves Lux, on Flickr

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Incredulous Dylan posted:

I’m not a fan of the look of flash but I know it can be super helpful. Is minimizing that flash look, while still getting useful light, just about power or is it a timing thing? Like I’ve read about Hasselblad’s leaf shutter system being great for flash and didn’t know if that is because it helps it look more natural or if you can just fire more off?

It's about placement, modifiers, bouncing and diffusion.

Understanding light types (soft/hard/specular/diffused) is key as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBuz-MPo0DI

The least optimal solution (unless you want that trendy 90's point and shoot look) is a camera mounted flash pointed at the subject.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
I don't really know Nikon but isn't there some sort of older screwdrive AF system that doesn't work with FTZ adapters?

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Are you talking wildlife?

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Depends on what your expectations are re warranty.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Bottom Liner posted:

Oh neat, looks like it does. The files are pretty small though compared to manual. Still cool.

I don’t ever do panos to get super wide views but to get much higher res shots of a scene, effectively increasing my sensor size to much larger than even medium format digital.




This one was 9 shots at 50mm in a 3x3 pattern.

Ah Brenizer method, nice job

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
For me it's the difference between the requirements "if I get something cool and it it's in focus it's a bonus and it will have a definite style I like because of the gear I used" and "I drove 3 hours at 3am to get to the bird reserve/sports event and the owls fledging/big game only happens once a year so I HAVE to get the shot so I want as much FPS and AF as I can."

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
I would say maybe an AD200 battery strobe or 2..

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

Cabbages and Kings posted:

does anyone have experience taking pictures and video of CRTs? Mostly it's just a matter of shutter speed vs refresh rate plus all the other usual nonsense.

I've been using an iPhone with various software (Moment, DSLRCam) to do this but I am thinking of getting some kind of actual DSLR for this (I have an ancient Canon Rebel somewhere but it's like 12mp and has some mechanical issues.)

I'm looking for suggestions, for, basically, the cheapest used thing that probably solves this pretty well. Actual composite analog video on a CRT maxes out at 1080 interlaced (requires a nicer CRT than I currently have, but, trying to be future proof). Also ideally I want something with USB webcam operability so that this could be used to send the same information in realtime to OBS or whatever. Additionally, CRT artifacting does weird stuff which is well beyond the usual resolution of the screen, so I do need a resolution which comfortably exceeds 1080, and also shutter speeds that can deal with/exceed a 59-60hz refresh.

You are gonna have lots of issues depending on your use case

moire etc

What is the video signal to the CRT device, why not use an RF/composite video capture device?

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
You could see if your camera supports the magic lantern custom firmware it might expand your video options.

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jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

thehandtruck posted:

i will take a look at this, thanks!

edit: looks scary. firmware stuff when i can still get a refund. also there's lots of 404's on their site currently

It's not that dodgy, but it does look like the T7 non i is not supported, you should return your camera, work out what you need from video and then ask in the forums for some recommends.

Remember that the "live streaming" use case and the "recording on the card" for editing later are 2 quite different use cases.

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