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evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Kazy posted:

Battery grips are the #1 things that make you camera feel "pro"
actually it's more like this.

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evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Most lenses sold as zooms (parfocals) actually aren't, either; they're "just" varifocals.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

If you need that focal length and f/4 is cool for what you're doing, that lens is nothing short of amazing. It's surprisingly light, too.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

nielsm posted:

Thanks, added it to the OP.

Still waiting for someone on Sony, Pentax, etc. to recommend some primes :)
Sony has a cheapish 35/1.8

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Clayton Bigsby posted:

Try some gaffer's tape; every photographer should own a roll anyway.
Or grip tape. Or deck tape (and wear gloves every time you pick it up).

spog posted:

Isn't grip tape the stuff they put on skateboards and feels like sandpaper?
That's deck.

evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Jul 5, 2012

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

spog posted:

I'll look at bath slip tape/matting as it must be waterproof, therefore sweatproof.
That's a brilliant idea TBH

By grip tape I meant the stuff they put on hockey sticks. It works on handguns but might not on cameras, where you can't tape all the way around the grip.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Pop the finder off a beater F3, tape down backside edge of ground glass, profit?

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Unless you use it professionally or buy collectibles, photo gear isn't really an investment.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

tijag posted:

Overall an incredibly capable film body. Generally speaking, would the F100 + 50mm f/1.8D take worse pictures than a Leica?
Not at all, it's just a vastly different way to go about making photographs .

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

big scary monsters posted:

Well that's fine, but then you end up having to scan the photo of the photo.
Hahaha that's pretty cute. And yeah an old macro lens and a bunch of rattlecaned black cardboard do wonders for film.
Attach camera at the end, scan a roll at 35MPin 3 minutes.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

There's the usual QC issues and the weird AF, but their lenses are well built (just not always well aligned).

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

On F3 It was no problem at all. The trick is to put the ciggie as close to the palm as you can.

PS: get better cameras you fukken plebs

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

I don't think there's even a first party 2k mm lens from any manufacturer. Get a 70-300 and see how that goes on your entry level slr of choice.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

DJExile posted:

I want to savor the gently caress out of this post. :frogbon:
Yeah it doesn't make any sense but I knew it'd make you happy 8-)

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Nikkor 80-200/2.8 is pretty good. Kinda depends on the range you'd like, and whether you want to stay at 2.8.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

I'd get a 2 rings D but I hate push/pull on AF lenses. I own a Sigma 70-200/2.8 and I like it, but the D800 sensor really can use better optics. I just don't use it often enough that it bothers me (50/1.8 all day erryday).

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

35/2 all day erryday (but do tell us what you have).

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Trambopaline posted:

CPL filters's. I know the advice is generally the most expensive you can afford for your largest thread size, but is this in the territory of go large (as you can) or go home, or would I not be horrified with a cheapish Praktica branded CPL fliter? It's something I've been keeping on the to do list since I have noticed that I do indeed take a largeish amount of landscapes and a reasonable amount of water and want to get one since everyone insists it's a pretty critical piece of kit, but I'm not sure I want to drop 300 dollars on one.
No the rule is get a Marumi super dhg either in the largest thread size or in the size for the lenses you want CPL'ed.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Super PLD is the one that tests so well. I have two and love them but I've never owned another brand so heh.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

DJExile posted:

Fast forward to this afternoon. I got back from playing golf with some friends on this trip, and she waved me over. "I think we've got it, plus we tossed in a little extra for you."
So what kind of sexual favor did you perform on that person the day before?

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Tsk tsk sloppy verticals gently caress that looks amazing

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

There's a reason crazy-rich americans with actual taste dismantle scottish castles and move them over instead of building McMansions.
the reason is they can't have french castles

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Clayton Bigsby posted:

Keep in mind that the 85s have a relatively long minimum focusing distance, which may come into play when doing product shots.
If you're going to do product you can't really go wrong with a ~60mm macro. 90 is nice on FX.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Yeah 28 is a normal on canon aps-c

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

GoldenNugget posted:

So something more like 15mm would work well for wide angle on APS-C? Thanks for the advice!
15 is really wide yes. Do you not have a kit lens?

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

The 85/1.8 is really kinda tight on APS-C but it's optically excellent. With some extension rings you could do basic macro.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Raikyn posted:

Just a question, what do you gain with a canon 16-35 L over the 17-40L apart from the aperture?
On FX or APS-C?

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

17-40 has horrible corners at the wide end. 16-35 has merely bad corners at the long end.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

SoundMonkey posted:

77mm is the pro filter diameter :smug:.

Yeah a ton of good lenses use 77. Remember that you need caps for each step down ring you get if you plan on leaving them on.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Or sell the lenses and get a 35 mm f/1.8. The best Nikon lens ever.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Why did you buy this instead of one of the many cheap flashes known to work without ttl? :-/

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

GoldenNugget posted:


I have another question. I got the tamrom 17-50mm f/2.8 and I see it comes with a lens hood. Does the hood interfere with putting a filter on? I'm intending to put a 77mm circular polarizer with a step up ring to get the filter to match with the 67mm filter thread. Any issues with this combination?
it's either the hood or the polarizer, sorry.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

I'd probably just use the hood whenever I'm not outside. It's pretty small (since it has to cover only enough for 17mm) so I wouldn't sweat it too much. It's nice to protect the front element from bumps though.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

khysanth posted:

She wants to get a second body and turn the 50D into a backup, and is considering going full frame.
Why and what is it for?

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Wyeth posted:

17-40 is the best deal in L lenses by a large margin.
Imma come to your house and beat you over the head with a 70-200/4

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Get a 35/2 for a lot less money.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

ExecuDork posted:

CF cards are physically much larger than SD - are there adaptors so you can just use SD in a CF slot?
Ayup.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Star War Sex Parrot posted:

Is it more helpful to have a hard or soft edge for graduated ND filters? Looking at snagging my first set to experiment with, thanks.
Soft, but unless you use square filters you'll probably be better off bracketing.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Bunch of shots wide open with the new Sigma 35/1.4

http://lcap.tistory.com/archive/20121117

If the corners are this good imma get one of these.

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evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Don't buy huge filters if you don't need them (or plan to soon need them) because that poo poo's expensive.

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